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American Amber Ale Zach & Jack's African Amber

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My Final Recipe:

I recently learned a lot about the original from having a growler of African Amber all to myself over a couple of days. The last side-by-side tasting was humbling because I thought my recipe was so close. The beer was fantastic and two kegs were quickly vaporized by friends and family, but it wasn't Mac & Jack's. Tweaks (large and small) were made and another brew ensued. I actually pulled a little from my earlier versions of this. And I'm probably still wrong on the crystal but my palate says the blend of C80 and C120 works better than just C120. I also stuck with the Mt Hood instead of trying Willamette. The color is great, including the classic haze which is there now. The aroma isn't dominated by either hops or malt but the big malty wafts are now there as well thanks to the added Munich. Carbonation is at 2.3 volumes. The flavor becomes harsh beyond that level of carbonation. The head lasts forever and clings in layers to the glass. It's got that herbal/toffee/tobacco flavor as it warms but also that soft fruity, caramel with mild citrus that elevates everything. The WY1968 didn't attenuate enough on paper so I went WY1318. A smoother, fuller result than S04. I don't think I'd change anything at this point. Very happy with the results!

For 10 Gallons

OG 1.060
TG 1.016
SRM 12.5
ABV 5.8%
35 IBU

7.55kg 75% Gambrinus ESB Malt
1.0kg 10% Gambrinus Wheat
1.0kg 10% Gambrinus Munich 10L
350gm 3.5% C80
350gm 3.5% C120

1.75 oz Centennial 60 min
1 oz Cascade 5 min
2 oz Mt Hood 5 min
1.5 oz Cascade (.75 oz dry hop per keg)

Mash 154F, no mash-out, batch sparged in equal batches

WY1318 Yeast (460 billion)

Ferment 68F and let rise 70F after 4 days for a D-rest. Crash to 40 and keg. Age for 2-3 weeks cold.


What a great beer! Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread.
 
Hey, if anyone from Mac & Jack's is reading this post about the African Amber clone, please comment on anything we should be doing differently, even if it's just to say "more crystal" or "lower fermentation temp." Feedback is appreciated.

Cheers!
 
Sitting here drinking a version with a 1.5 oz Cascade dry hop. 2 oz seemed better.
 
My Final Recipe:

.....

What a great beer! Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread.

Thanks for putting in the work on this recipe. I've been making mead for several years, and really the Mac n Jacks Amber is the only beer I like, so I decided to try my hand at making a clone.

I haven't tried all-grain brewing. Been sticking to extracts and steeping grains. I'd love to translate your all-grain recipe into an extract + grain-steeping one. For reference I did the recipe on the HomeBrew Heaven website:

https://store.homebrewheaven.com/articles/MacJacksClone.htm
 
Harguf, Homebrew Heaven's recipe looks pretty dark and high on the IBUs. 12-13 SRM is where you want to be and about 35 IBU. The roasted barley is likely added just for color but shouldn't be there. You can't go wrong using either my last recipe or dwightr8's last recipe. Beersmith converts to partial mash.

1.67 kg ESB Pale Malt (Gambrinus)* (4.0 SRM) Grain 1 18.3 %
0.88 kg Munich Light 10L (Gambrinus)* (10.0 SRM) Grain 2 9.6 %
0.88 kg Wheat Malt (Gambrinus)* (2.3 SRM) Grain 3 9.6 %
0.27 kg Caramel Malt - 120L (Briess)* (120.0 SRM) Grain 4 2.9 %
0.27 kg Caramel Malt - 80L (Briess)* (80.0 SRM) Grain 5 2.9 %
5.19 kg Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM)

Brewcat, 2oz of cascade is too pronounced in my opinion. I just finished a keg this weekend which had additional dry hops. It was good but seemed to have way more than M&Js.
 
Harguf, Homebrew Heaven's recipe looks pretty dark and high on the IBUs. 12-13 SRM is where you want to be and about 35 IBU. The roasted barley is likely added just for color but shouldn't be there. You can't go wrong using either my last recipe or dwightr8's last recipe. Beersmith converts to partial mash.

1.67 kg ESB Pale Malt (Gambrinus)* (4.0 SRM) Grain 1 18.3 %
0.88 kg Munich Light 10L (Gambrinus)* (10.0 SRM) Grain 2 9.6 %
0.88 kg Wheat Malt (Gambrinus)* (2.3 SRM) Grain 3 9.6 %
0.27 kg Caramel Malt - 120L (Briess)* (120.0 SRM) Grain 4 2.9 %
0.27 kg Caramel Malt - 80L (Briess)* (80.0 SRM) Grain 5 2.9 %
5.19 kg Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM)

Brewcat, 2oz of cascade is too pronounced in my opinion. I just finished a keg this weekend which had additional dry hops. It was good but seemed to have way more than M&Js.

Thanks for doing the conversion in Beersmith. Is this for 10 gallons?
 
Yeah no problem. 10 gal. Beersmith handles that conversion with just a few mouse clicks.

Hey, did you temp control the ferment on the low side? Say 64-65 F?

When I make mead I keep the ferments on the low side in order to minimize the fusels.
 
Yes. I ferment this one at 68F and let it rise to 70F after 4 days for a D-rest. So, not as low as it can go but also not at high either. Crash to 40 and keg. And then age for 2-3 weeks cold.
 
Yes. I ferment this one at 68F and let it rise to 70F after 4 days for a D-rest. So, not as low as it can go but also not at high either. Crash to 40 and keg. And then age for 2-3 weeks cold.

Well, I did the partial mash recipe over the weekend. What worries me is that in the midst of the chaos I put the Cascade hops in for 60 minutes instead of the Centenniel. The rest of the recipe I followed to a T.

Ought to be interesting how it turns out given the hops screw up.
 
If you simply swapped the Cascade and Centennial additions you'll be about 10-15 IBU short.

I pre-measure my hops into labeled solo cups during the sparge because I've done this by accident before too. The overall difference will be minor other than bitterness.

You may want to boil some more hops in wort for an hour, calculated to add your missing IBU back to the mix. In this case I'd opt for a high alpha like summit or magnum given the utilization issues in such a small boil.

It won't be perfect but it will bring you back to 35 IBU where you need to be.
 
I let the recipe be. The color is Mac n Jack's and the taste is closer than what I had done previously. Very smooth and drinkable though, and considering I prefer low IBU beers, I'm fortunate.

I feel confidant enough now to do a full mash. Next time around I'll follow your recipe.
 
I just made another 10gal batch of this. It's waiting to be kegged. I'm running out of my citra IPA and my barleywine needs a couple more months yet. Cheers!
 
My Final Recipe:

For 10 Gallons

OG 1.060
TG 1.016
SRM 12.5
ABV 5.8%
35 IBU

7.55kg 75% Gambrinus ESB Malt
1.0kg 10% Gambrinus Wheat
1.0kg 10% Gambrinus Munich 10L
350gm 3.5% C80
350gm 3.5% C120

1.75 oz Centennial 60 min
1 oz Cascade 5 min
2 oz Mt Hood 5 min
1.5 oz Cascade (.75 oz dry hop per keg)

Mash 154F, no mash-out, batch sparged in equal batches

WY1318 Yeast (460 billion)

Ferment 68F and let rise 70F after 4 days for a D-rest. Crash to 40 and keg. Age for 2-3 weeks cold.


What a great beer! Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread.

Update: I still think the recipe is right there now that everything has been dialed in... BUT there were two problems in the last brew that warrant sharing.

1. I goofed and mashed at 156F instead of 154F.
2. I usually ferment in a temp-controlled fridge but ran out of space. I didn't have time to compensate so I just let 'er rip, not realizing it'd get so hot. The coolest place in the house made for a 75F peak temp during the ferment. (average temp during active fermentation was about 72F).

Well, the results were fantastic in spite of a sloppy brew! The body was a little fuller as a result of the higher mash temp. The Safale S-04 yeast didn't suffer at the high temps. In fact, it benefited. The esters were complimentary in every regard and I thought better mimicked the M&J's house yeast strain. The TG was still 1.016, so possibly better yeast health, possibly the temp, or a combinations of factors.

Conclusion:
For future batches, I'm going to raise my mash temp to 156F. I'll still let the fermentation start at 68F but will set the fridge to 72F, letting it rise naturally and will continue using S-04. Additionally, carbing to 2.3 vols CO2 seems to be the sweet spot for this beer.
 
African Amber really reminds me of an early micro from the Vancouver, British Columbia area which began around the same time as M&J's. It was called Shaftebury Cream Ale. It wasn't a cream ale by style but similar to M&J's. A few breweries started making this easy drinking style which became known as either West Coast Cream Ale or PNW Cream Ale. The small brewery began to grow quickly in the late 90's and the accountants killed the beer. I don't know if anyone even brews the style anymore. The Shaftebury brand still exists but it's a contract brewed lager made somewhere around here in BC.
 
I haven't brewed this for a couple of years now. I've gotten really lazy since the brewery is only 15 mins from the house. The last time I brewed it I did a blind test with my brew and the real thing. Both my wife and another friend (who are both very familiar with the real thing) picked mine as the real thing! I still say the yeast is the key. Thought I'd post my current recipe in case anyone wants to try it:

The 1.016 FG seems key to getting the correct body for this beer. I'm going to do this one over the weekend with WY 1968 but having never used it before and seeing that it has a "max" attenuation of 71%. Should I lower my mash temp down to 152F to try to get this to finish at 1.016 or just mash at 154F do a healthy pitch and let the yeast do what it can even if it only gets down to 1.018?
 
The Shaftebury brand still exists but it's a contract brewed lager made somewhere around here in BC.

Interesting thing about Shaftbury. Tree Brewing in Kelowna actually bought the Brewhouse from Shaftbury, then a few years later bought the brand, so Shaftbury is now brewed in Kelowna by Tree, on the exact same brewhouse that it was originally brewed on!
 
The 1.016 FG seems key to getting the correct body for this beer. I'm going to do this one over the weekend with WY 1968 but having never used it before and seeing that it has a "max" attenuation of 71%. Should I lower my mash temp down to 152F to try to get this to finish at 1.016 or just mash at 154F do a healthy pitch and let the yeast do what it can even if it only gets down to 1.018?

I generally get 80%+ attenuation with 1968, even mashing at 155.
 
Interesting thing about Shaftbury. Tree Brewing in Kelowna actually bought the Brewhouse from Shaftbury, then a few years later bought the brand, so Shaftbury is now brewed in Kelowna by Tree, on the exact same brewhouse that it was originally brewed on!

Well I'll be damned. I didn't know that. I was brewing with Redbird right across the street a few weeks back and was thinking about the Shaftebury thing. Hehehehe. Right under my nose the whole time.

I'm not sure it was Shaftebury's original system though. I remember when they installed the new system when they moved to Tilbury in my early brewing days. I'd guess it was that Tilbury system that is now at Tree.

I still brew the beer that Shaftebury helped me design. It's like their Cream Ale meets Fuller's ESB. I call it Ambient Ale. It was my first AG brew.

Cheers and thanks for that tidbit of info.
 
The 1.016 FG seems key to getting the correct body for this beer. I'm going to do this one over the weekend with WY 1968 but having never used it before and seeing that it has a "max" attenuation of 71%. Should I lower my mash temp down to 152F to try to get this to finish at 1.016 or just mash at 154F do a healthy pitch and let the yeast do what it can even if it only gets down to 1.018?

I think you are right. 1.016 is key to the mix.

The yeast strain doesn't matter as much from my angle. I've tried a few English yeasts that work equally as well. M&J is rumored to either crash or stop the fermentation at 1.016 but I'm unsure whether their house yeast wants to go beyond that.

Sure, try adjusting your mash temp to compensate if you use the 1968.
 
Interesting thing about Shaftbury. Tree Brewing in Kelowna actually bought the Brewhouse from Shaftbury, then a few years later bought the brand, so Shaftbury is now brewed in Kelowna by Tree, on the exact same brewhouse that it was originally brewed on!

Had a red ale at Marten/Naked Pig in Vernon today. A little like M&J's. Much drier finish and more bitter but just as quaffable.

IMG_1186.jpg
 
I still brew the beer that Shaftebury helped me design. It's like their Cream Ale meets Fuller's ESB. I call it Ambient Ale. It was my first AG brew.

Cheers and thanks for that tidbit of info.

That’s a heck of a teaser. Would you mind sharing the recipe? Interested in how it compares to African Amber.
 
Well I'll be damned. I didn't know that. I was brewing with Redbird right across the street a few weeks back and was thinking about the Shaftebury thing. Hehehehe. Right under my nose the whole time.

I'm not sure it was Shaftebury's original system though. I remember when they installed the new system when they moved to Tilbury in my early brewing days. I'd guess it was that Tilbury system that is now at Tree.

I still brew the beer that Shaftebury helped me design. It's like their Cream Ale meets Fuller's ESB. I call it Ambient Ale. It was my first AG brew.

Cheers and thanks for that tidbit of info.
Cheers!

How is Red Bird? I was working at Tree for last summer, and got to be there for Kettle River to open, but just heard from some others about Red Bird. That's a pretty boozy little intersection there now! I need to make a pass back through Kelowna soon!
 
Cheers!

How is Red Bird? I was working at Tree for last summer, and got to be there for Kettle River to open, but just heard from some others about Red Bird. That's a pretty boozy little intersection there now! I need to make a pass back through Kelowna soon!

Red Bird is just getting started of course. They have a crisp contract brewed Kolsch and a decent IPA. I helped him design a hoppy citra/cascade pale as his first house brewed ale but not available yet. Still working the bugs out of it and the system yet. They also have the tacos so win-win place to be!
 
The 1.016 FG seems key to getting the correct body for this beer. I'm going to do this one over the weekend with WY 1968 but having never used it before and seeing that it has a "max" attenuation of 71%. Should I lower my mash temp down to 152F to try to get this to finish at 1.016 or just mash at 154F do a healthy pitch and let the yeast do what it can even if it only gets down to 1.018?

Rechecked my notes. Last time I was at 76%. Mashed at 157. I should check my thermometer but I'm pretty sure it is calibrated.
 
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