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Yuri's Brew Yurt (Hut)

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Due to the awesomeness of the system I will have to let your naming conventions slide.... THIS TIME
 
As I have stated previously this has been a learn as I go process without the benefit of programming guidance, the goal of the latest software revision is to keep CPU time minimized and running memory consumption down. The executable Jar file is down to 3.88 MB and average CPU load is running 5-10% during execution, with 40 - 50MB memory used.
 
Did you determine your pulse width experimentally or did you use a feedback loop with a variable setpoint? I'm wondering if setting the boil to 212, 213, or some other temp would be optimal for a good steady boil without overdriving the element.
I used trial and error to determine a pulse width that would keep a rolling boil. Using temperature as a gauge really doesn't work well, since the temperature of a violent boil is nearly identical to the temperature of a simmer. I found that throttling back to about 50% kept the boil rolling really well.
 
Using temperature as a gauge really doesn't work well, since the temperature of a violent boil is nearly identical to the temperature of a simmer.

That's exactly what I was thinking. Perhaps a PID algorithm isn't really needed at all. Simply 100% duty cycle until 212 (adjusted for altitude) and then go to 50%. I wouldn't think it would need allowance for a small amount of overshoot.

By the way, awesome brew hut! I'll be building in the basement but I don't think I'll be hitting your standard. I haven't finished rebuilding the entire inside of my house yet. ;)
 
You know, I'm really regretting not putting a temp sensor in the boil kettle. In fact, I nearly wrote the code to do exactly what you suggested, Fingers, until I remembered that "tempKettle" didn't exist! I'll probably add another thermocouple soon.
 
That's exactly what I was thinking. Perhaps a PID algorithm isn't really needed at all. Simply 100% duty cycle until 212 (adjusted for altitude) and then go to 50%. I wouldn't think it would need allowance for a small amount of overshoot.

By the way, awesome brew hut! I'll be building in the basement but I don't think I'll be hitting your standard. I haven't finished rebuilding the entire inside of my house yet. ;)

I think 'sugar water' will boil a little higher, at least in the little I've done.
 
I am going to try the changing temperature approach, when the BK temp is the same for 3 cycles 30 seconds apart then boil is true. I was wondering if you have had the time to monitor BK temp to see if temperature rise stops at boil.
 
You know, I'm really regretting not putting a temp sensor in the boil kettle. In fact, I nearly wrote the code to do exactly what you suggested, Fingers, until I remembered that "tempKettle" didn't exist! I think I'll probably add another thermocouple soon.

I ordered a set of four LM35 sensors. One for the MLT, one for the HLT, one for the boil kettle, and one to give me outside temps so I know why I'm brewing in the basement.

I think 'sugar water' will boil a little higher, at least in the little I've done.

That's a good point, Hermit. I think Yuri's approach is best. Simply find the sweet spot and then program it in.
 
I am going to try the changing temperature approach, when the BK temp is the same for 3 cycles 30 seconds apart then boil is true. I was wondering if you have had the time to monitor BK temp to see if temperature rise stops at boil.
That sounds like a fine approach. I would use the following conditions: temp greater than 200° AND stable over a long enough period of time to assure that the temperature rise is complete. That way there's no chance that you'll throttle the element back at a low temp. I have not specifically measured and charted the rise time, but I think you can be reasonably assured that the temperature will stabilize +/- one degree once a boil is achieved.
 
Someone in another thread mentioned a very sensitive temp probe circuit. I guess if you used that you would have a better chance of using temp as the control given Yuri's 'logic'. Hmmm... quick google doesn't really turn up anything useful on boiling point/gravity that isn't tied to a particular compound.
 
Thats sweet Yuri. We put 4 Polk speakers in the ceiling and 2 on the outdoor patio. Connected them up to an AirPort Express. Now we can control all the music in the brewery wirelessly from iPhone/iPod touch. No big speakers taking up space!
 
Holy cow...part of me is kinda glad I missed this when I was away from HBT and the interwebz with that whole life thing again.

I'm really impressed with pretty much everything you've done with your hut. Tile floor looks damn good in the pictures. Doubt you need the ego boost, but I figured I'd give you a nice bravo!

Side note, are you aware of the "free day" at SparkFun in Jan?

Question about you using the arduino...how many sensors can you run without an additional shield, and which chip are you using? Question is two fold, I am starting to think about how to make my own weather station that runs off an arduino, and two, I want to make my own temperature controller for my kegerator, and have it do some cool stuff (TBD) as well.

Read these 41 pages for the past hour or so, very nice read!
 
Looking forward to "free day." Thanks for the mention because I was about to forget!

I'm using the 168 in the brew hut. The standard Arduino has 6 analog inputs and 15 digital input/output pins. If you use multiplexers or one-wire/serial devices, your options become greatly increased. If you really need more pins, use an Arduino Mega (or Sanguino), which has roughly double the number of analog and digital pins.
 
Looking forward to "free day." Thanks for the mention because I was about to forget!

I'm using the 168 in the brew hut. The standard Arduino has 6 analog inputs and 15 digital input/output pins. If you use multiplexers or one-wire/serial devices, your options become greatly increased. If you really need more pins, use an Arduino Mega (or Sanguino), which has roughly double the number of analog and digital pins.

ahh I gotcha, I'm going to PM you to keep this thread clean, or is there a general Arduino thread somewhere?
 
Here is the enclosure that I built to house the Ping))) sensor. I calibrated it today. It appears accurate to at least +/- one quart. I can live with that for now.

ping1.jpg


ping2.jpg
 
Your brew setup has sonar! What's next, lasers?

When you build a micro nuclear reactor for your brew kettle, there needs to be an intervention.
 
Here is the enclosure that I built to house the Ping))) sensor. I calibrated it today. It appears accurate to at least +/- one quart. I can live with that for now.

Is this to measure brewpot or mash volume? Could it be more accurate to somehow measure the weight of the tun/kettle instead of distance? Wort is pretty heavy and small changes could be easily noticeable.
 
It is to measure volume in either the mash tun or the kettle (will work with both). With the right sensors and setup, measuring mass could take the place of measuring distance as a means to determine volume.
 
I have experimented a bit with this. I used a kg scale to measure all my water and even tried putting three scales under the legs of burner I use for the boil to measure evaporation rates. Still looking for a cheap source of strain gauge weight sensors for my next build. One thing to note is you have to account for the few percent increase in density from the sugars to get the volume right.

Paul

It is to measure volume in either the mash tun or the kettle (will work with both). With the right sensors and setup, measuring mass could take the place of measuring distance as a means to determine volume.
 
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