Your build- RIMs system

[MemphisMakers]

I am tryng to build a RIMs system, I'd like to start this post on the subject of how others have made theirs, who has a program for their PID- if they can share... how to do one on the cheap... a unit for all! As far as mine goes - it is a false bottomed sanke half barrel with a one inch exiting from the bottom ell'd outwardly (to a march pump) turning upwardly to a insert- "screw in"-(removable to clean) hot water heater element controlled by a PID...Tee'ed over to a swingable sparge-spray wand. Simple and cleanable. Any ideas?

 

[JoshuaW]

My build is using a Bobby_M long RIMs tube with a 5500w element that will primarily run on 120v (for 1375w). Its pretty typical, triclamp tube, triclamp element. It has camlocks for the hose fittings, which is great. Im powering it with the BCS-462 panel Im building. My panel will allow me to select the voltage, either 5500w (for adding some extra power for heating sparge water) or 120v. I also have a flow switch to prevent the PIDs from firing when there is no liquid flowing through the RIMs tube.

 

[augiedoggy]

My build is using a Bobby_M long RIMs tube with a 5500w element that will primarily run on 120v (for 1375w). Its pretty typical, triclamp tube, triclamp element. It has camlocks for the hose fittings, which is great. Im powering it with the BCS-462 panel Im building. My panel will allow me to select the voltage, either 5500w (for adding some extra power for heating sparge water) or 120v. I also have a flow switch to prevent the PIDs from firing when there is no liquid flowing through the RIMs tube.

I also use a flow switch for the same purpose... glad to see im not the only one... normally my rims just needs a rinse and its good to go with no buildup but I left it on with no flow once and the element was caked with scorched wort...I installed the flow meter and flow switch shortly after.

 

[FriendOfBrewers]

My mash tun is also a Sanke keg and I made my RIMs tube out of 1.25" stainless (8" nipple, two tees, a 1" bushing and 3x .5" bushings). I use a 5500 watt element running at 120v. My RIMs tube has a B camlock on the out port and this connects directly to the A camlock mounted on the keg. Here's a picture of the connection.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/sanke-kegs-rubber-handles-bottom-516182/#post6709754

I tried to make my RIMs tube as inexpensively as possible, while still using stainless components. In the end, I spent less than one from BrewHardware.com, but it's also not as nice.

I'm using a Raspberry Pi and StrangeBrew Elsinore software for PID control.

 

[JoshuaW]

I also use a flow switch for the same purpose... glad to see im not the only one... normally my rims just needs a rinse and its good to go with no buildup but I left it on with no flow once and the element was caked with scorched wort...I installed the flow meter and flow switch shortly after.

Your system was the inspiration for mine Im still building. I have my flow switch on camlocks, so I can take it off, and Im going to make a loopback plug for my panel that I can use in the event that the flow meter malfunctions, or I blow an SSR and need to switch one of my other elements to that outlet.

 

[FriendOfBrewers]

What type of flow switch are you guys using?

Something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-St...748?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a4db9dccc

 

[JoshuaW]

What type of flow switch are you guys using?

Something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-St...748?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a4db9dccc

This is the one I bought. Note, I have not brewed on it yet, but everything looks and fits as expected.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151314136035

Edit: I put a male and a female camlock on each end, and will be attaching it to the inlet of my RIMs tube, then attatching the hose to the flow meter.

 

[augiedoggy]

This is the one I bought. Note, I have not brewed on it yet, but everything looks and fits as expected.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151314136035

Edit: I put a male and a female camlock on each end, and will be attaching it to the inlet of my RIMs tube, then attatching the hose to the flow meter.

I also use one almost identical to this one but ill give you some advice, the spring inside does cause more restriction than I hoped so I actually tried cutting it down and ultimately flipped it and installed it in a reverse fashion to still act as a stopper so the float does not travel to far or get pushed out of the sensor altogether. I suspect since you have the metal disc inside yours which I didnt have, that you can just remove the spring and install the sensor in a vertical fashion like I did and use gravity to ensure the float returns to its stop flow position. Mine is working perfect so far and I have brewed with it.