yeast starter quantity

[Woodland]

I've been brewing for over 6 months and am now sold on using yeast starters for all my brews, whether it being a fresh vial of White Labs or my washed/recycled yeast. I'm seeing a difference in opinion (no surprise there) as to the amount of DME required to make an effective starter, anywhere from 50-150 grams of DME. I've been using the pre-measured yeast starter packs from LD Carlson (56.7 grams for $1.50) in 2 cups of boiling water, which they claim is sufficient for 5-10 gallons of wine or beer. Seems to work well enough. I just purchased a stir starter from Dan Jeska with a 2L flask. I made my usual starter, stirred it on the plate for about 26 hours and pitched the whole damn thing (another point of debate) into my Midwest Supplies copper ale wort. I'm reading Dan Jeska's instructions, and he recommends 150 grams of DME for a starter, triple the amount I've been using. Common sense tells me that if what I've been doing is working, why use a larger starter (and spend more money) than what I really need to?

A 2L flask is more than double the size I need, anyone want to trade for a 1L erlenmeyer flask?

 

[weirdboy]

I use 100 grams per liter because it's easy to remember.

 

[Golddiggie]

Normal starter sizes are approx. 100g (3.5oz) in 1L of water. That's what I use with excellent results. How large of a starter per batch is typically determined by sources such as Mr. Malty. I typically get as close as possible to the amount specified with that calculator, and also get great results. Those pre-packaged kits are getting you pretty close to the correct ratio, if you maintain it.

IMO, you're better off keeping the 2L flask, since you could need it later on for a larger starter. I typically make 2-3L starter for my 6.5-7 gallon batches. This works out well, combined with using a pure O2 system to oxygenate, as well as nutrients in the boil.

 

[jonmohno]

Is there much difference with using a pure o2 system than a paintmixer or drillmixer to oxyenagate? And how much yeast are you using for a liter starter? Does it matter the amount of yeast?

 

[kh54s10]

Don't get rid of the 2 liter flask! You will find that 1 liter is too small for many/ most starters. And 2 liters will work well for smaller ones.

100 gram per liter! This is the easiest to calculate for any size starter.

 

[kh54s10]

Is there much difference with using a pure o2 system than a paintmixer or drillmixer to oxyenagate? And how much yeast are you using for a liter starter? Does it matter the amount of yeast?

Make a stirplate. There are threads here on how to do it. I spent $7.40 making mine. No complicated o2 system is needed. You make the right sized starter ant pitch one pack/vial. If more yeast is needed you do a step up starter.

Check mrmalty.com and yeastcalc.summitwoodwork.com
There is a lot of information on starters on these sites.

 

[jonmohno]

Im pretty lost about understanding stirplates as well as water profiles. I just started ranching my liquid yeast, and im still uncertain about washing and i dont see a reason to do starters when i do small batches and use the ranched slurry within a week. From what i was told the 2 oz of slurry i pitched for my next batch was enough for 5 gallons when i do 1.7 gal.

 

[Golddiggie]

Is there much difference with using a pure o2 system than a paintmixer or drillmixer to oxyenagate? And how much yeast are you using for a liter starter? Does it matter the amount of yeast?

I use the pure O2 system for the brew wort, not the starter. For the starter, I use my stirplate under the flask. I cover the flask with sanitized aluminum foil and let it go to town. Typically it's finished in under 24 hours. Depending on what I'm making, I'll either just let it settle and pitch the slurry, or chill/cold crash, decant and pitch more yeast into the batch.

I use one packet (Wyeast) of yeast per starter most of the time. That's with up to a 3L starter. Use the tool on the Mr. Malty site to see what more packs do for you. IMO, you can use a stirplate, with a good size starter, to get the yeast you need for less money than buying more packets of yeast.

With the paintmixed method, for aerating your brew wort, you can only get to a certain PPM of O2 (8PPM I believe). With a pure O2 system, you can easily get to 20PPM of O2 in the same wort. You're limited with pumps and the other methods by atmospheric oxygen concentrations. With pure O2, that limitation is gone. Same thing with the old shaking method, still limited by atmospheric O2 levels. With a bad back, I prefer the method that involves the least amount of risk of me being laid-up for days to recover. hence using the pure O2 setup. Besides, several of us did some tests a while back.

 

[kh54s10]

You can definitely use slurry. A lot of information on using slurry and amounts needed is available at mrmalty.com. If you are reusing yeast you really should research stirplates and starters. You will eventually want to use a harvested yeast that is not really fresh, then a starter is pretty much necessary.

 

[RoadKing]

You can definitely use slurry. A lot of information on using slurry and amounts needed is available at mrmalty.com.

Here's the link, look at his pitch rate calculator too. Mrmalty.com

 

[Woodland]

I did some math at mr. malty and determined a 100g/1l starter is what my recipie required. A 56g pack of Red Star yeast starter is apparently only half the size the batch requires and costs me $1.50. If I purchase 3 lbs of DME for $10.99 that's over 1360 grams for less than $1 per 100 gram batch. In short, I've been spending way too much to make a smaller and insufficient batch. Now I know a much better way to do it and save $$$ as well. I'll definitely be hanging on to my 2L flask.