Well now you haven't got enough bittering. I would recommend using both the Chinook AND the Apollo for bittering. 
Thank you for that. My plan is to leave it in the fermenter for at least 2 weeks, I think the Bry97 said that is how long to go, then add the dry hops and wait about 3 to 5 days and either keg or bottle depending on what is available at the time. I mistyped that part so I am glad you caught it. I am going to run two batches as I have just about finished my 805 similar beer as well. Thanks again for the input, it is most appreciated.Your fermentation may take longer than that and you don't want the escaping CO2 to scrub out the aroma either. Think about when you will likely have time to bottle or keg this beer (2 to 3 weeks in the fermenter is good, more won't hurt) and then when you know the date, count back 3 to 7 days and add the dry hops then so you infuse all the flavor.
if I am in a hurry because I am running out of beer (God forbid that happens) I might dry hop on day 10 because I have enough experience to know how my fermentation will go and am willing to make this beer less than optimum in the interest of getting beer to drink.
Good call I actually updated Brewfather when I saw that and included both and it kicked it up to about 56 or so I think. Forgot to change the post. Sorry and thanks for catching it.Well now you haven't got enough bittering. I would recommend using both the Chinook AND the Apollo for bittering.![]()
A few things come to mind:Update. My OG according to brewfather was supposed to be 1.061. I am at 1.052.
I did not check my post boil, my bad. My preboil was low also so I wasn't expecting to hit it, just was hoping to get a bit closer.A few things come to mind:
And most likely it's a combination of any or all of those.
- Was your final (post boil) volume correct?
- Did you have much wort left over in the kettle, with the trub?
- How finely or coarsely was your grist milled? Most big suppliers (NB, MoreBeer, etc.) mill like crap, very coarsely.
- How well did you lauter (drain) the wort?
- Did you sparge (rinse) the grain and how well?
The other thing is your settings in Brewfather. The mash and/or brewhouse efficiency may be set (or estimated) too high.
It usually takes a few brews to hone in on the correct efficiency prediction.
You have no control over the mash efficiency when someone else does the milling. They may change the mill gap at any time and the mill may wear and change the gap.Grain was milled by Morebeer. I have asked for a second milling and they have told me they do not do that, so who knows. I am thinking of getting a mill of my own to do it myself, but cannot justify the expense right now.
Ah, you have the option of a much finer milling. I use a Corona style mill and it works well with BIAB. Being so cheap for the mill means the difference in the cost of the lesser amount of grain it will pay for itself quickly. For an example here is one on Amazon, not necessarily the cheapest price for one.Also, this is a BIAB setup,
OK, so I set the OG on Brewfather to what I got, 1.052 and changed the efficiency number until the grain bill was about where my recipe was. So, if I did it right, I got about 62% efficiency and should have added a pound plus of 2 row, half pound of munich and slight amounts of the crystals. Does this sound about right? should I adjust my efficiency number down for now and assume I am going to be in that area for batches going forward?
That's quite low for FG, hence the (unexpected) dryness. Your wort must have been very fermentable, possibly due to mashing at low(er) temps.Gravity: 1.003
Taste test: [...] finished a bit dry though
BRY-97. It took off fast. I bet if I would have hit the 1.061 that Brewfather said I should have, it would have been a bit better. I might try it again and add a pound or two of 2 row and munich and see what I end up with.That's quite low for FG, hence the (unexpected) dryness. Your wort must have been very fermentable, possibly due to mashing at low(er) temps.
Did you end up using Nottingham?
Why? If it's done fermenting it's done fermenting, and if it tastes good it tastes good.I thought I had a pretty good beer here, but now I am wondering.
I used my Hydrometer on that as well. I thought I had it nailed pretty well, but I could have missed by a point or two. The wort may have been warm too. I put it in the fridge but never actually took the temp before I tested it. I tested my hydrometer with room temp water this morning, and it read just about 1.000 so I think I am ok there. But who knows. LOL.Why? If it's done fermenting it's done fermenting, and if it tastes good it tastes good.
Lallemand says that BRY-97 should attentuate 78-84%. So maybe your SG reading is off a little. How did you measure and did you make the appropriate corrections?
The other common possibility is contamination / infection. Over attenuation can be caused by almost anything added after the boil.now I am being told on the other forum that my number is off? Poster said that he does not think BRY97 would ferment to that low of a FG.
Yeast is a living organism and it does what it wants. While not typical, sometimes due to the conditions being just right, yeast will attenuate farther than is expected. If the beer tastes good, quit worrying about the low FG. It could be a mistake in reading the hydrometer or it could just be the yeast liking the conditions and going farther than expected.Heck, now I am being told on the other forum that my number is off? Poster said that he does not think BRY97 would ferment to that low of a FG. I swear I don't think I am built for this. I thought I had a pretty good beer here, but now I am wondering. Oh well, guess I will just wait and see. Damn it.
I will definitely keep this link for future reference. Thank you. I don't think I made note of what the temp was when I did it initially.Try checking the temperature of your gravity sample, and make the correction. There is a calculator here: Hydrometer Temperature Calculator | Brewer's Friend
And they are definitely not stupid questions.