Would this receptacle work?

[davemattb]

Would this work mounted to a spa panel instead of the leviton 2626. It's cheaper and I like the lock on it. Any insight? Thanks!!View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1425428236.676666.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1425428248.755614.jpg

 

[brew_ny]

if it is rated for the amps you are drawing then you are all good

S_M

 

[davemattb]

Here's a description and more pics. Want to make sure before I pull the trigger on this.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1425476841.487533.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1425476866.676450.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1425476881.203997.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1425476894.662337.jpgType:Single Locking Power Outlet
Rating - Amps:30A
Rating - Volts:250V
Number of Poles:2P
Number of Wires:3W
Ground:Grounding
NEMA:L6-30R
Cover Type:Watertight Cover
Material:Rubber
Color:Yellow
Application:Watertight
Manufacturer Series:Watertite®

Compared to leviton 2626 description
30 Amp, 250 Volt, NEMA L6-30R, 2P, 3W, Flanged Outlet Locking Receptacle,Industrial Grade, Grounding - White, UPC: 07847780618

Also wondering if people think this might not mount well into a spa pa el for any reason? It looks good to me though.

 

[HumulusHead]

Assuming your setup will be for 30A or less, that looks like it would work good.

I like the idea of trying to mount it to the side of the spa panel. I was looking at spa panels the other day at HD and i believe what you have could mount somewhere on the panel. Might have to get a little creative on the inside to make room, but it should work.

How good of a deal you getting on that thing?

 

[processhead]

That is a 3 conductor receptacle.
As long as you know that you won't need a fourth neutral conductor for your system , it should work fine.

 

[davemattb]

I'm planning to get the electric tower of power so no 120 needed with that. It's on eBay for under $25 shipped. There's a few available

 

[augiedoggy]

I'm planning to get the electric tower of power so no 120 needed with that. It's on eBay for under $25 shipped. There's a few available

If saving money is this important then why in the world are you buying the most expensive option out there with the tower of power?? there are many alternatives that work just as well and possibly even better for much less $$ then that will cost you...like $400 less or so...
I get it if this stuff is out of your element but all you need is one of the many prebuilt 120v (or 240v) single pid controllers that sell for $200-$300 and a rims tube kit if you dont want to mess with DIY.

 

[davemattb]

It's not just saving money. I like the lock feature on this. Furthermore, if I have to ask a simple question about a receptacle, I'm not comfortable building my own panel. Here's a link for those interested.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/131365329419?nav=SEARCH

 

[augiedoggy]

It's not just saving money. I like the lock feature on this. Furthermore, if I have to ask a simple question about a receptacle, I'm not comfortable building my own panel. Here's a link for those interested.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/131365329419?nav=SEARCH

I was editing while you typed... well I just dont see the logic in all the effort to save $10 when your so happy to spend an extra $400+ for no real practical gain...
Its your choice though... what does the blichmann do that say this $250 prebuilt system doesnt?
http://www.jaggerbushbrewing.com/RIMS-TUBE-WCONTROLLER-1-12-TRI-CLAMP_p_49.html
Just the simple 120v pid controller alone is over $550 from blichmann and is twice the price of most of the comparable prebuilt products out there...

 

[z-bob]

NEMA L6-30 is good. I like the surface mount and the cover.

 

[davemattb]

I'm open to other options. I have posted in a previous in a previous thread about other controller options. I want 30a 240v. I'll run pumps on separate electrical. Electric TOP is about $600 I believe. I'd love a list of suggestions though...

 

[augiedoggy]

I'm open to other options. I have posted in a previous in a previous thread about other controller options. I want 30a 240v. I'll run pumps on separate electrical. Electric TOP is about $600 I believe. I'd love a list of suggestions though...

So this would be a good functional equivalent for $250 ($265 with an alarm feature added)
http://www.jaggerbushbrewing.com/PID-CONTROLLER-220-VOLT-30-AMP_p_21.html
or
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLWNW4S/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

and you have many options for a rims tube...
like
http://www.brewershardware.com/Tri-Clover-RIMS-Tube.html

http://www.glaciertanks.com/Rims_Tube_Kit-Rims_Tube_Kit_with_Clamps_1_1_2_SS304.html

https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1893.htm

or even cheaper prebuilt units ,
this one is plug and play with the controller above...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAL0NXS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RIMS-TUBE-S...636?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c3e54f1ec

I use a homemade panel similiar to this one and strongly recommend going this route if you have the ability to go all electric... its way cheaper and easier than propane to use and get consistent results.
http://www.jaggerbushbrewing.com/-ELECTRIC-BREWERY-CONTROL-PANEL-30-AMP_p_20.html

 

[augiedoggy]

BTW the electric tower of power costs a lot more than I thought... its $650 for just the stand with one pump... and $580 more for just a control module for one element/ rims tube... I cant even make heads of tails if the actual rims unit is included with the stand or not....(no one seems to sell a complete setup or list the price for a working system) it appears the stand does not include a rims since they indicate it can be used with a herms setup as well..
So it looks like a tower of power with control for one 30A element and without any pump is $1100+ shipping or $1,200 with a pump... thats a lot of expense for basically one 30A pid controller on a stand with a fancy temp probe manifold...

I do see that it has a flow meter and alarm which is similiar to what I have on my build only my flow switch shuts the element off automatically in the event of a stuck sparge (yet to happen for me) anyway your savings would be more along the lines of $800 or more... flow meters are $20 like the one I use in my setup .

 

[davemattb]

Thanks for the extensive reply. That first option from jagger bush is interesting. I first considered a still dragon boil control but knew I'd eventually upgrade as I was the pid for temp control. I wasn't planning on doing a rims. Eventually HERMS but really for now I really want to heat strike/sparge water then boil. I might change my mind on Rims though as it wouldn't require a lot of modification. Thanks again!

 

[davemattb]

Btw. Augie, my wife is mad she was hoping I made a final decision now I'm back to searching...

 

[HumulusHead]

Btw. Augie, my wife is mad she was hoping I made a final decision now I'm back to searching...

Augie will do that do you. He's made me second guess every part of my build, but thanks to him it doesn't seem to be hurting my wallet as bad

 

[augiedoggy]

Augie will do that do you. He's made me second guess every part of my build, but thanks to him it doesn't seem to be hurting my wallet as bad

Yeah I can be a frugal SOB....To a fault sometimes especially when trying to make a point.

Too many years of working two jobs and having to make every penny count... I fear the long term effects are permanent!


But I would have never in a million years has been able to build the system I have now by just going with the one stop shop approach... this is one hobby where doing your homework can have some huge benefits!

I recently tackled building my first auto engine (from scratch) with no experience and basically just the internet resources like forums and youtube.
I'm restoring an old 74 Stingray I picked up cheap.
I got a lot of flack on the corvette forum because everyone told me building a 400+ HP 400+lb /tq small block chevy would not be cost effective and I would need to spent at least 4-6 grand to do it right. They all preach the same "buy a crate moter for 5-6k to everyone that asks.. that drives me nuts because I had a lot of fun and learned a lot about the car Ive decided to restore...I completely replaced the interior and am doing the body work now and have already managed to build and swap in this engine and have about 800miles on it with nothing but a grin to show for it right now....

Total investment in the engine from scouring craigslist and ebay over the course of about 16 months... $1,600

I'm mentioning this because if I would have just gone with the flow and listened to everyone with intimidating comments who said "play it safe" and "its better to just buy a crate engine" and my favorite "expect to spend at least XXXX" some of these people repeat this stuff to make themselves feel better about the decisions THEY made... I would have never learned what I was capable of...And now I'm not afraid to do my own repairs! Which anyone whos owned an old car (especally a vette) knows can be priceless!

 

[trimixdiver1]

BTW the electric tower of power costs a lot more than I thought... its $650 for just the stand with one pump... and $580 more for just a control module for one element/ rims tube... I cant even make heads of tails if the actual rims unit is included with the stand or not....(no one seems to sell a complete setup or list the price for a working system) it appears the stand does not include a rims since they indicate it can be used with a herms setup as well..
So it looks like a tower of power with control for one 30A element and without any pump is $1100+ shipping or $1,200 with a pump... thats a lot of expense for basically one 30A pid controller on a stand with a fancy temp probe manifold...

I do see that it has a flow meter and alarm which is similiar to what I have on my build only my flow switch shuts the element off automatically in the event of a stuck sparge (yet to happen for me) anyway your savings would be more along the lines of $800 or more... flow meters are $20 like the one I use in my setup .

That's why I hate Blichmann!! They charge a huge markup to put it in a stainlrss box and slap their name on it. I used to sell their stuff, not anymore! John complained about me to this forum and my old owner, about the safety issue I pointed out with the new kettle valve. Tried to shut me up over a safety issue. Not the kind of guy I would buy anything from.

Their website sucks, they have poor documentation and the support is left to the retailer who doest know anymore than the customer because they don't show us what or how that stuff works and fits together. Their markup they allow the retailer is abysmal as well.

Do yourself a favor and stay away from Blichmann. And I have 5 of their fermenters!

 

[davemattb]

Nice Vette augie! Looks like a fun project. I'd truly love to build my panel but I know it'll take too much time from my family and ultimately brewing. I like the idea of a prebuilt unit from a bigger company who can offer support 5 years from now. However I getting the vibe the support might be less than I should expect... This forum is strong enough I'm sure I could troubleshoot here I something were to go wrong.

So I really like the price point of the jagger bush brewing. I'm guessing the pid will allow manual control for boiling? Any issue unplugging heating elements to switch kettles?

I also really like this panel by brumatic on eBay. At 600 seems like a great price point. He also offers an inline gfci box so I wouldn't have to deal with the spa panel and I could just tell him what I need and I imagine he would have it basically plug in and go which would save me time. Also, having pumps on panel would be a nice option at this price point.

I'll link these panels again below but any words of wisdom or something I'm missing?

http://www.jaggerbushbrewing.com/PID-CONTROLLER-220-VOLT-30-AMP_p_21.html

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Brumatic-DBC-...2-elements-PID-infinite-control-/221607809879

 

[augiedoggy]

Nice Vette augie! Looks like a fun project. I'd truly love to build my panel but I know it'll take too much time from my family and ultimately brewing. I like the idea of a prebuilt unit from a bigger company who can offer support 5 years from now. However I getting the vibe the support might be less than I should expect... This forum is strong enough I'm sure I could troubleshoot here I something were to go wrong.

So I really like the price point of the jagger bush brewing. I'm guessing the pid will allow manual control for boiling? Any issue unplugging heating elements to switch kettles?

I also really like this panel by brumatic on eBay. At 600 seems like a great price point. He also offers an inline gfci box so I wouldn't have to deal with the spa panel and I could just tell him what I need and I imagine he would have it basically plug in and go which would save me time. Also, having pumps on panel would be a nice option at this price point.

I'll link these panels again below but any words of wisdom or something I'm missing?

http://www.jaggerbushbrewing.com/PID-CONTROLLER-220-VOLT-30-AMP_p_21.html

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Brumatic-DBC-...2-elements-PID-infinite-control-/221607809879

I can tell you that the brains behind brumatic is a member here whos been very helpful in helping me when I was lerning how to use my mypin pids...
He knows his stuff. He has also been around a lot longer than jaggerbush which is a fairly new operation.

His prices are fair and his support I'm told from others has been great.
I believe his handle here is Brumatuer ...

 

[davemattb]

I've seen his name around. Might just shoot him a pm. I'll update you when I eventually pull the trigger! Thanks for your help!