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Would STC-1000's work in place of the PID's?

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Marc77

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Basically the PID is just a monitor to kick on the element if the sensor say's it's getting too low in temp. So why now just use an STC-1000 and save some money? What am I missing?

I'm thinking of trying to build a kal clone but making modifications and doing things cheaper when and where I can.
 
PIDs use a predictable algorithm to avoid overshooting the temperature as well, were as an STC is more like automating flipping a switch. You can find some PIDs for pretty cheap, I would recommend going with the PIDs. You really only need one PID (for your HLT in HERMs, for your RIMS tube in RIMs).
 
Basically the PID is just a monitor to kick on the element if the sensor say's it's getting too low in temp. So why now just use an STC-1000 and save some money? What am I missing?

I'm thinking of trying to build a kal clone but making modifications and doing things cheaper when and where I can.

You can use it, but you would need to wire in a solid state relay to handle the load.

I use one to control an element for a sous vide, and that's pretty much what you're doing. I manage less than 1c difference in the controller vs the thermapen reading.
 
I use a STC1000 on my eHLT. I do use it to drive a SSR but that's not any different that what you'd have to do with most PID's anyway.
 
Stc comes with thermosensor, so actual difference will be around $15
I don't know about that..
I paid $21 with free shipping for my first cheap rex100 with the thermocouple ,SSR and heatsink from eBay.... It was celcius only ( like a real stc1000) but it worked fine... Pt100 sensors are $6 alone with shipping and the better mypin pids can be found for just under $20 shipped...
 
I don't know about that..
I paid $21 with free shipping for my first cheap rex100 with the thermocouple ,SSR and heatsink from eBay.... It was celcius only ( like a real stc1000) but it worked fine... Pt100 sensors are $6 alone with shipping and the better mypin pids can be found for just under $20 shipped...

That and you can reflash the STC to be F instead of C. I'm a computer programmer so I like to tinker. If it's really just a few bucks difference and I don't have to do anything though it's not worth it. I've been looking at Kal's clone and seeing $40 a pop and I can get them for about $14'ish? from ebay.
 
That and you can reflash the STC to be F instead of C. I'm a computer programmer so I like to tinker. If it's really just a few bucks difference and I don't have to do anything though it's not worth it. I've been looking at Kal's clone and seeing $40 a pop and I can get them for about $14'ish? from ebay.

Kals pids are from aubrins. An american company that Kal uses for this reason.. All the stuff they sell is a bit pricey compared to elsewhere including the switches sensors and relays they sell which are from the same suppliers in China as the ones on amazon or eBay. The temperature controllers they sell however are their own (I believe) and most pay more for the support auberins has for showing buyers how to wire than and use them but rumor has it they may actually be made in the USA..I couldn't find any reference to this online though. ( If they are its a reasonable price really)

Yes eBay or amazon has many cheaper options.... If you are looking for something to control a boil kettle the mypin "td4-ssr " or td4-snr is in my opinion your best bang for the buck. Newegg.com sells them too they have manual mode
 
Kals pids are from aubrins. An american company that Kal uses for this reason.. All the stuff they sell is a bit pricey compared to elsewhere including the switches sensors and relays they sell which are from the same suppliers in China as the ones on amazon or eBay. The temperature controllers they sell however are their own (I believe) and most pay more for the support auberins has for showing buyers how to wire than and use them but rumor has it they may actually be made in the USA..I couldn't find any reference to this online though. ( If they are its a reasonable price really)

Yes eBay or amazon has many cheaper options.... If you are looking for something to control a boil kettle the mypin "td4-ssr " or td4-snr is in my opinion your best bang for the buck. Newegg.com sells them too they have manual mode

Has anyone ever put together a Kal clone using the cheaper options and listed out what and where they got it from? I'd be curious to see an entire build list and how the end result compares to Kal's.
 
eBay will be your cheapest bet. I sourced everything I needed to build a 50amp BCS controller. Most stuff is similar to what the resellers specific to brewing was selling for twice or more the price (some even put their own label/stickers on them). Plus shipping was included in just about everything I bought. The mail lady was probably annoyed with the 100 packages I received, and it took some time, but it was WAY WAY cheaper.

I also bought an awesome metal me a box from Bud industries for super cheap. You can find extruded heat sinks for a fraction of what Kal sells his for.

Just use his list of parts and source each item off eBay. Just make sure the specs are the same, and you'll be good. You'll also learn a thing or two, that may help you with the build, by doing it this way vs having someone do the work for you.
 
Has anyone ever put together a Kal clone using the cheaper options and listed out what and where they got it from? I'd be curious to see an entire build list and how the end result compares to Kal's.

I built mine for under $300...
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/facelift-my-control-panel-497593/ I have about 40 brew sessions on it now with no problems.....although I made both cosmetic and functional upgrades.
My whole brewing rig setup was only about $ 1000-1200 (not including fermenters or kegs)
 
eBay will be your cheapest bet. I sourced everything I needed to build a 50amp BCS controller. Most stuff is similar to what the resellers specific to brewing was selling for twice or more the price (some even put their own label/stickers on them). Plus shipping was included in just about everything I bought. The mail lady was probably annoyed with the 100 packages I received, and it took some time, but it was WAY WAY cheaper.

I also bought an awesome metal me a box from Bud industries for super cheap. You can find extruded heat sinks for a fraction of what Kal sells his for.

Just use his list of parts and source each item off eBay. Just make sure the specs are the same, and you'll be good. You'll also learn a thing or two, that may help you with the build, by doing it this way vs having someone do the work for you.

I appreciate that! Definitely going to do all the work myself. It'll help me know how things work and tinkering like that intrigues me. When I saw that Kal's 30 amp control panel costs almost $800 difference from parts to put together I knew I'd do it on my own.

I assumed there was some mark up but not that much! In the end I'd be thrilled if I could get the parts individually like you did and make the same product for under a grand.
 
I built mine for under $300...
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/facelift-my-control-panel-497593/ I have about 40 brew sessions on it now with no problems.....although I made both cosmetic and functional upgrades.
My whole brewing rig setup was only about $ 1000-1200 (not including fermenters or kegs)

I've read through your thread and subscribed to it. I'm definitely interested in your part list and where you got your stuff from. Just find it amazing that you did it all for $300 or less. Especially when I've seen PID's going for $40 or more.
 
In the end I'd be thrilled if I could get the parts individually like you did and make the same product for under a grand.

Oh you definetly can. My BCS is crazy over build with lots of additional stuff and I came in at around a grand for a panel that would have probably ended up costing over $3000

I had to source a few things from retailers, but most were small items. I couldn't find the proper 50a contactor for a din rail off eBay, so I ordered it. I also had some other small things I had to find from other sites other than eBay, like the heat sink. But I got that from another company who makes them.

But all said and done, my SSRs are all brand name (crydom) my plugs are all brand name and the proper flanged ones. Like I got the 50a plug for $18 and the 15a ones (all 4 for $20) the 50a one is probably $50-75 retail while the 15a ones are probably $25-30ish ea

I also got stainless steel float switches for the side of the tank. They're just like the ones a retailer sells for $40/ea. They cost less than $10/ea if I remember. I bought 3 of them.

I built all my temp probes. I bought the sensors and the SS tubes from brewers hardware along with the BCS 462 controller. I couldn't source those any better and the quality is top.
I bought 100ft of mic wire for a few bucks on eBay (free ship) and built my own sensors with 10ft cables. They work awesome and cost a fraction of the price. I found a reseller on eBay who sells the 1/4" compression to 1/2" pipe for something like $15 shipped for 5 of them I think. It was really cheap.

Anyway, I didn't cut any corners on my build. I in fact upgraded majorly. But it was a lot of work and took a lot of time to find the parts. I just waited until I found the right deal for each thing. And then there's the assembling of it... But it's part of the fun.

Oh, and I have Amazon prime (free shipping on prime orders) I get 99% of my stainless steel fittings off Amazon. A $5 (plus shipping) item from a brew shop costs $1 on Amazon with free shipping. (eBay is another good source of that kind of thing. I always search for free shipping)
 
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