when do you like to do a diacetyl rest?

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when do you do your diacetyl rest

  • 7 to 10 days

    Votes: 3 12.0%
  • at a rough or specific attenuation ( ex 70 to 90 percent, or at x percent)

    Votes: 5 20.0%
  • when i see the activity slow or stop

    Votes: 14 56.0%
  • whats a diacetyl rest? ( no rest)

    Votes: 3 12.0%

  • Total voters
    25

fluketamer

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i used to do a DAR at day 10 but since i got my wifi hydrometer im thinking i can hone it into around 75 percent attenuation both of which i have seen reccomended. when do you brewers like to do your rest if you do one. thanks for any responces.
 
1) Take your OG reading
2) Look at the digits to the right of the decimal (e.g., 1.056 --> 56)
3) Divide by 2 (e.g., 56 / 2 = 28)
4) Put a 1.0 in the front and start the D rest there IF needed or desired (e.g., 1.028)
5) IF you actually detect diacetyl in the aroma or flavor, let it rest longer than the typically recommended X days. Give it at least a couple of WEEKS before chilling, that's how long it actually takes a lot of the time -- don't cold crash, leave it warm until that diacetyl is gone.
6) Package and condition as normal
 
I'm same as OP. I was doing 7 to 10 days but just finished my second batch with the iSpindel and will be going for 75% now.
 
When fermentation activity has slowed, I do a trub dump and take gravity measurement. When (very) approximately 90% attenuated I rack to kegs and put heat wrap on them if cellar temp dictates. Ramp up and D rest at same time as spund carbonation is taking place. This makes sense, since both D rest and spunding rely on the yeast being still active.

I agree with dmtaylor that d rest can take longer than many people give it. I used to follow advice like; "ramp up to 64F rest 3-5 days, ramp down and crash. But since I started spunding after kegging, and therefore taking pressure readings on kegs, I have come to realize the yeast can take a couple of weeks to fully clean up beer and stop working, even at controlled temp of around 65F.
 
I started waiting until activity slows down. For some reason I get different attenuation rates. My last two tests used 1pack of S-189 split between the two. Both were (according to BrewFather) expected to finish ~1.013 and 1.014 but finished 1.014 and 1.018 respectively.
 
I keep an eye on my Tilt and ramp up when I'm a few points away from finish.
A typical fermentation/temp plot from my Tilt looks something like this:

Ferm.jpg
 
Frankly, I don't see the point if you pitch big and healthy and use the modern lager method. A D-rest, to my mind, is an archaic solution to a problem that has already been fixed.

OK, what do you mean by 'modern lager method', and what is the fix for bottom fermentation at low temps with lager yeast?
 
Last edited:
Put simply, you pitch low then slowly allow the temperature to rise over the course of the fermentation. You're welcome to google this method. Two people claimed that they discovered this technique, branded it the "modern lager method," then sold some stuff. I use the term only because it makes sense to most contemporary brewers.

Here's the nuts and bolts: As most brewers with temp control already know, the bulk of your yeast flavors will be created early in the fermentation. As such, it's okay to allow the temperature to climb during the latter parts of the fermentation. Doing so promotes a quick and clean fermentation. Everyone knows this, we've been doing it for decades with ales, why shouldn't it be true with lagers, right?

Here's how I do my modern lager fermentations:

1) At around 1pm I pitch big, healthy, oxygenated, and augmented with zinc at ~46F and set my fridge for 48F.

2) The following morning I should have a big healthy fermentation banging away on the anti-suckback's airlock. I raise the temp to 50F.

3) On day two I raise it to 54F.

4) On the morning of day three I should be around 50% attenuation, so I let it raise to 58F.

5) I should hit TG by day five, maybe six at 58F.

6) Be sure you have an anti-suckback rig and crash hard, then let it sit as close as you can get to freezing for a week.

7) Keg with the finings of your choice and enjoy clear beer two days later.

That's how I do it.
 
I never do a rest either, I ferment at 48 degrees for 30 days at which time I taste for diacetyl, if none is detected I keg, If I taste it I leave it for 3 or 4 days and repeat.
 
Put simply, you pitch low then slowly allow the temperature to rise over the course of the fermentation. You're welcome to google this method. Two people claimed that they discovered this technique, branded it the "modern lager method," then sold some stuff. I use the term only because it makes sense to most contemporary brewers.

Here's the nuts and bolts: As most brewers with temp control already know, the bulk of your yeast flavors will be created early in the fermentation. As such, it's okay to allow the temperature to climb during the latter parts of the fermentation. Doing so promotes a quick and clean fermentation. Everyone knows this, we've been doing it for decades with ales, why shouldn't it be true with lagers, right?

Here's how I do my modern lager fermentations:

1) At around 1pm I pitch big, healthy, oxygenated, and augmented with zinc at ~46F and set my fridge for 48F.

2) The following morning I should have a big healthy fermentation banging away on the anti-suckback's airlock. I raise the temp to 50F.

3) On day two I raise it to 54F.

4) On the morning of day three I should be around 50% attenuation, so I let it raise to 58F.

5) I should hit TG by day five, maybe six at 58F.

6) Be sure you have an anti-suckback rig and crash hard, then let it sit as close as you can get to freezing for a week.

7) Keg with the finings of your choice and enjoy clear beer two days later.

That's how I do it.

Now that you mention that, I do remember reading an 'exBEERiment' from Brulosophy outlining that procedure - but I've never tried it. https://brulosophy.com/methods/lager-method/
 
Put simply, you pitch low then slowly allow the temperature to rise over the course of the fermentation. You're welcome to google this method. Two people claimed that they discovered this technique, branded it the "modern lager method," then sold some stuff. I use the term only because it makes sense to most contemporary brewers.

Here's the nuts and bolts: As most brewers with temp control already know, the bulk of your yeast flavors will be created early in the fermentation. As such, it's okay to allow the temperature to climb during the latter parts of the fermentation. Doing so promotes a quick and clean fermentation. Everyone knows this, we've been doing it for decades with ales, why shouldn't it be true with lagers, right?

Here's how I do my modern lager fermentations:

1) At around 1pm I pitch big, healthy, oxygenated, and augmented with zinc at ~46F and set my fridge for 48F.

2) The following morning I should have a big healthy fermentation banging away on the anti-suckback's airlock. I raise the temp to 50F.

3) On day two I raise it to 54F.

4) On the morning of day three I should be around 50% attenuation, so I let it raise to 58F.

5) I should hit TG by day five, maybe six at 58F.

6) Be sure you have an anti-suckback rig and crash hard, then let it sit as close as you can get to freezing for a week.

7) Keg with the finings of your choice and enjoy clear beer two days later.

That's how I do it.
Pressure fermentation plus ALDC enzyme. Pitch and ferment @ 63F/1 BAR. At 75% of FFT prediction, raise temperature to 73F for two days (FG). Total 5~7 days. Cold crash @ 38F for one week.

Package and keg, store for 4 weeks. No trace of diacetyl, no off flavors. Brewed 3 lagers this way since July (Helles, Kolsch, American Standard lager). All won 1st in Class, 38-41 points by BJCP judges, the Helles won Best of Show.
 
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