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Wheat Haze

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rodwha

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I had a blonde ale that I used Whirlflock in using US-05 and noted how hazy it looked. I used 1/2 lb (10%) of soft white wheat berries in a 2.5 gal batch. Yooper told me that wheat can do this, and that US-05 can take a little more time to settle out. This was a recipe to see if I could have bottled beer ready in 31 days giving it 2 weeks to ferment, 2 weeks to condition, and 3 days in the fridge. I was surprised that the Whirlflock hadn't worked.

I also had made a honey wheat beer that I tried a day early, and had used the other 1/2 of the US-05 (I usually use a wheat yeast). And there it was, an extremely hazy beer, though this too was a quick turn around recipe as above.

I began adding wheat to my beers long ago as I've struggled with head retention problems despite soaking my glasses in a jug of Star-San and a quick rinse instead of using dish soap. I don't mind the lack of clarity, but there are times when presentation means a lot to someone trying a homebrew or even craft beer for the first time, which is why I bought the Whirlflock.

So what is the least I can use to help with head retention yet not concern myself over clarity? Or is it a time in the fridge/conditioning issue?
 
If head retention is your only goal, you could try a malt specifically for this, such as Carafoam.

I've had good success getting rid of a lot of wheat haze by stirring in a teaspoon of gelatin (mix with a bit of hot water first) a few days before bottling and cold crash for best results.

You might also want to try irish moss in the boil instead of Whirflock. It's always worked nicely for me.
 
I use wheat along with carapils/carafoam.

What's the difference between Irish moss and Whirlflock?
 
Carapils/Carafoam helps with head retention but not as well as wheat or oats do. Raw, unmalted wheat (flakes, berries) tend to create more haze than malted versions. Maybe use malt next time?

You can add gelatin before cold crashing.

The good news is, wheat haze will clear eventually, I have proof of it. After 4 months in the keg, that 70% wheat Witbier has become clear as a bell. I was very surprised to see that, since I'd also added a wheat flour slurry to create "permanent haze." One of those Witbier kegs had a good solid yeast/protein/flour cake on the bottom. Yummy!
 
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SWMBO bought me a 25 lb sack of those soft white wheat berries. I've used about about 2/3 already!

Maybe I'll just try a smaller amount and see if I can get a clear beer early on, and if not skip the wheat.

But I am curious how Irish moss differs.
 
I would explore other options for head retention. In my experience, wheat always ads a haze. I have done numerous different things to clarify my beers. (I think Yooper had an article on it a while back too.) Some practices to help avoid haze:

-Make sure you crush, not pulverize, your grain.
-Get a good strong boil for a good hot break
-Use hop bags during the boil (optional)
-I use irish moss instead of whirlfloc...not sure if there is a difference
-Chill your wort quickly to create a good cold break and let that settle before racking to your FV.
-Choose a yeast with higher Flocculation (Nottingham is great for this)
-Be more careful anytime you rack your beer not to disturb the trub.
-Use a fining agent such as gelatin.

For your head retention, there are numerous things that can help with that other than wheat. Dextrine malts add body and head retention without changing the flavor or color. I use Carapils personally. Other adjuncts, such as flaked oats, can help as well depending on the style you are going for.
 
"Make sure you crush, not pulverize, your grain."

Here is one issue. I don't have a grain mill (yet), and I use the Blendtech which pulverizes a good bit of it. The gobs of wheat berries I used for my wit I nearly turned to flour and had sparge issues.


"Get a good strong boil for a good hot break."

I have to straddle 2 burners on a glasstop. It gives me an OK boil of about 4.5 gals, but it's not the type you see with those who use propane. I'm not sure if it's not quite strong enough or not, and this is using the bottom panel of the tamale steamer as a lid propped by my spoon so as to vent the steam. I haven't noticed DMS issues.


"...and let that settle before racking to your FV."

I've always just dumped the whole bit into the fermentor figuring anything undesirable will fall out and become part of the trub.


"Use a fining agent such as gelatin."

I've never used gelatin before.


So I see there are several things I can likely do to improve the clarity. It's never been a personal issue as it doesn't matter to me, but there are certainly people who would be hesitant and start with the thought of how terrible it must be.

I've also never cold crashed, though now I can. Does this not make the healthy yeast fall out too causing issues for bottling? I'd certainly love to reduce the sediment in my bottles as I leave that behind wasting 1/2-1 oz from each bottle as I don't want a bunch of yeast. A little, but not a bunch.
 
I've always used between 1/4 and 1/2 a teaspoon of Irish Moss flakes (5-6 gallon batch) at 10', and it works great that way. After finding flakes in my trub, I now soak the flakes in a bit of hot water in a small cup for an hour during the boil. I get it ready when I measure my hops, and add it to the additions line up, so I won't forget. It becomes a gelatinous mass. Then add that at 10'

Can't judge for Whirlfloc.

Here's a good article on finings.

And there's the foam book...
 
There's some threads on here about how to use gelatin. I used it once and it dropped my blonde ale crystal clear overnight. I wouldn't worry so much about dropping too much yeast cold crashing. I actually had the same concern and was corrected. There are still plenty in suspension for carbing the bottles.

I also used to dump all of the contents of my brew kettle into the FV. I suppose there's no harm in it, but I prefer to minimize my trub.

Check out this article by Yooper.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/clear-wort-clear-beer.html
 
I have to wonder if my boil is strong enough. I'd think it was, and you can certainly see the hot break material while cooling it.

My chill I do in an ice bath and takes about 30 mins or so. My understanding is that ought to be quick enough.

That leaves the wheat haze and potential yeast haze.

My beers are generally clear when I follow my typical 3-4 weeks ferment, 3-4 weeks conditioning, and 1 week in the fridge. And I typically don't use Whirlflock.

I thought Whirlflock was the cure all for clarity and so I was befuddled when my 2 X 2 week with 3 day chilled beer was super hazy.

Maybe I ought to try filtering the wort as I'm transferring it to the fermentor. Cheesecloth doubled up? My trub is typically 1/2-3/4" deep in a bucket.

Maybe this is just something I'll have to deal with in a quick turn around beer, and then maybe skipping the wheat may be good enough. Or serve in a Solo cup! Ha ha!
 
Whirlfloc is an irish moss based product. It's designed to help facilitate the coagulation of break material. It helps but there are other factors that contribute to clarity in the finished product.

I would play around with different yeast and maybe sub out the wheat with carapils or carafoam. Worst case scenario...you'll still have beer! Best problem ever!
 
If I didn't have hazy wheat beer I'd be disappointed, clearly if your goal is to brew a wheat you'll be willing to enjoy the haze that's as much a signature part of a wheat beer as any.

As the others have said if your chasing head retention, lacing and a foamy head there are other grains to use.
 
I already use 2.2-3.4% carapils/carafoam in the 1/2 of my partial mash, and use Briess golden light LME which has an unknown amount of carpools in it from them. I assume I'm at 4-6% and I understand 5 is about all you want.

I quit washing my glasses with dish soap and just soak them in a jar of Star-San and rinse.
 
I'm certainly not concerned about a hazy wheat beer. I just noted that Yooper was on the money about wheat itself being hazy. I thought it was the low floc yeast that was hazy.
 

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