What size hole do I need in beer shank with 4mm EVA line?

[DuncB]

I use 4mm EVA line on my kegs and will be getting some new shanks for some more taps ( perlicks).
Which bore should I get 3/16 or 1/4 inch.

I have a mixture of these two sizes on my current 5 taps having bought a different size ( due to ignorance) when I upgraded from 3 to five taps.

Does it really matter ?

Any ideas? Thanks

 

[JJinMD]

They make shanks that are designed for use with duotight fittings. These are the ones I use, and I use the recommended reducer, it makes assembly so much easier than trying to get the eva tube over a barb. Intertap & Nukatap DuoTight Tower Shank

If you aren't using a tower, you might just use these with your choice of shank, Duotight Push-In Fitting - 8 mm (5/16 in.) x Female Beer Thread | MoreBeer

 

[DuncB]

They make shanks that are designed for use with duotight fittings. These are the ones I use, and I use the recommended reducer, it makes assembly so much easier than trying to get the eva tube over a barb. Intertap & Nukatap DuoTight Tower Shank

If you aren't using a tower, you might just use these with your choice of shank, Duotight Push-In Fitting - 8 mm (5/16 in.) x Female Beer Thread | MoreBeer

Probably not made my question clear enough.
I have shanks as you have detailed on my existing 5 taps and have the duotight adapters on them to take the 4mm internal line.

My question is the metal shank with the 5/8 thread on the outside ( as you linked ) can have a different sized hole through the middle. Either a 3/16 or 1/4 inch and I'm wondering which hole to get in the shank?

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, I lopped off the original barbs from my 3/16" ID shanks then screwed DMfit 5/8 BSPP to 8mm tubing adapters onto the shanks...

Cheers!

 

[GilSwillBasementBrews]

I’d go with the 3/16”. Just because that’s what my shanks are.

 

[DuncB]

The 1/4 inch bore seems to be an exception anyway, must be useful if you are serving thick beer or soup on draft I suspect.

 

[GilSwillBasementBrews]

I believe the 1/4” bore are generally used for longer runs like if you were hard plumbing long lines for a bar or such. As the extra bore would help with the increase in line resistance due to excessive length

 

[DuncB]

I believe the 1/4” bore are generally used for longer runs like if you were hard plumbing long lines for a bar or such. As the extra bore would help with the increase in line resistance due to excessive length

This statement confuses me, my beer lines aren't long as I'm using 4mm internal diameter tube.
If I changed this to a bigger tube I could have really long beer lines and then should need a bigger diameter shank?
Length of a tube is a linear relation to flow.
Doesn't make much sense because if you double the diameter of a tube you increase flow by 16 times.

 

[Sc0ttyt^]

Resurrecting an old thread because I think there may be something to this. I too recently upgraded from a 3 tap to a 6 tap setup and reused the shanks and faucets I had for a few years now. I recently purchased 3 Komos stainless shanks (3") from MoreBeer paired with Nukatap faucets w/ self closing springs. Another tap is an older 3" stainless shank w/ an older Nukatap faucet (currently without a spring, for now). All with Duotight 8mm x female beer thread adapters and 8' of 4mm x 8mm EVABarrier tubing.

When building the new keezer I noticed the older 3" shank has a larger diameter bore (I can't remember where I purchased it). I am still troubleshooting, but I think this may be the cause of excessive foaming on 1 out of the 4 taps. As the beer hits the shank, there is less resistance than in the tubing which is possibly allowing C02 to break out. At first I thought it was the Duotight flow control disconnect and shorter length of tubing, but I swapped that out and no improvement. I tried cleaning the faucet again... There are a few other variables - no faucet spring, change in Nukatap design? or possibly overcarbed this beer? I plan to report back with my finding after I sort this out. I will need to measure the exact bore dimensions and tinker some more. For what it's worth, the newer Nukataps are slightly different. The tap handle on the old one sits more upright while the 3 new ones lean back further in the fully closed position.

EDIT: I've tried various flow control products with no success. I think for the best performance, the bore should only get smaller as the beer travels from the keg to the faucet to prevent C02 breakout. Maybe this is my problem, maybe not.

 

[DuncB]

Since my original post I've upgraded all my beer lines with flowmeters, these have all needed Ball lock 8mm external then adapter to 9.5mm and short tube through meter before stepping back down to the 8mm external. Not getting any real change in the foaming.

I haven't changed the beer shanks so they all are consistent and I still feel in my heart that this discrepancy is an issue.
I have nukataps on all of them and balanced line lengths depending on position.

I agree not had much luck with flow control taps or flow control ball locks.

Await your update.

 

[Sc0ttyt^]

I had a keg kick and used the opportunity to look at the shank bore again. Indeed, the one I had foaming issues with measured 1/4" ID while the others are 3/16" ID. I reassembled with a spring in both, moved the troublesome beer to a 3/16" ID shank, and saw notable improvement in the pour and perception of the beer - a tart cherry ale which had over 6 lbs of sour cherries and tasted sweet after all the c02 broke out. I should really take a keg pouring well and move it to the 1/4" ID shank to see if foaming increases.

 

[mac_1103]

I should really take a keg pouring well and move it to the 1/4" ID shank to see if foaming increases.

No. You should toss the 1/4" shank and get another 3/16" shank.