Belgian Dark Strong Ale Westvleteren 12 Clone - Multiple Award Winner

[brew_darrymore]

Want to transfer to harvest a little yeast as well for re-pitching at bottling time as well.

Probably not a good idea to harvest yeast that just finished fermenting a quad. I've had quads that refused to carbonate and bottles were flat even after 6 months.

Play it safe and get some dry yeast to bottle condition with, like EC-1118.

 

[troglodytes]

I would never trust it to ferment out another beer, but I figured that it could be repitched at bottling. I will actually have starter of WLP 007 going at the time of bottling this quad so I'll draw off some of the starter at high krausen and repitch.

When you bottle this do you store at 65-68 for a several weeks to carb up, then take it to long term storage at 50-55F, or do you just store it at the cellar temps straight from bottling day?

 

[brew_darrymore]

When you bottle this do you store at 65-68 for a several weeks to carb up, then take it to long term storage at 50-55F, or do you just store it at the cellar temps straight from bottling day?

I store the bottles at 68F as I don't have the space to store them at lower temperature. Colder temperature will slow down the carbonation and the aging process, so keep the bottles warm until fully carbonated.

 

[cuda6pak]

In a bit of a dilemma right now. Brew day is planned on Sunday and I'm doing the recipe per the original post except using The Yeast Bay's Dry Belgian Ale. Unfortunately I only bought 2 vials and the 3rd vial I don't think will be making it in time to do a 3L starter with all 3 vials (11.0gal batch).

Here are my options I believe -
1) Get a vial of WLP530 and co-pitch alongside the 2 vials of DBA in a 3L starter
2) Do a 4L starter with the 2 vials of DBA and underpitch
3) Save all or maybe some of the D-180 and pitch it into primary after 24-36hrs of fermentation. How would it alter the wort flavor profile by not boiling the candi sugar?

What do you guys think?

 

[bmaupin]

Get a vial of WLP530 - I've read TYB dry belgian is kinda boring and better for a pale.

 

[Toca]

Brewed this recently and since i top cropped a nice amount of yeast from it, decided to brew an Achel 8 extra clone a week after, so my whole room smells of plums lol. i have two questions..on a first batch, 2 inch krausen still lingers on top, after 10 days, sitting at 25 C. Should I rouse it with a sanitized spoon?
Other thing.. i've been trying to find an answer on why such a short primary? shouldn't yeast be left at least 2/3 weeks to clean up after themselves? especially on such a big beer. Im sure i saw an idea behind it, cant seem to trace it now.

 

[troglodytes]

In the batch I just did, I'd just let the krausen fall naturally when you go into the temp ramp down. I did the CSI steady ramp from 63-81F and held there for 3 days. The gravity was exactly spot the target of 1.014. with some slight activity. I then ramped back down over 7 days to 55F and held there until I bottled last night.

The krausen fell after the first day of ramp down and after a week and a half at 55F, the FG was 1.012 and I bottled a pretty clear looking beer. Can't wait to see how it tastes late this year.

 

[Mer-man]

I just wanted to come back and say brew this. Mine, despite being a dark gold, is fantastic. It is close to 11% and is very "digestible ". It's also the first beer that everyone has liked.

 

[troglodytes]

Is the perceived sweetness of this beer overexageratted when young?

Its currently carbing (so there is some residual priming syrup left), and I wanted to crack one just to make sure I bottled at FG and I wasn't making bottle bombs. I drank some of it, but it was the sweetest tasting 1.012 beer I've ever had, almost cloying. Is this something that fades in aging?

 

[Jwin]

Was there some carbonation present?
The priming can add quite a bit of sweetness. If it's mostly in tact, it will make it very sweet.

 

[troglodytes]

There was some carbonation, but not much, so there may be a bit of residual priming sugar. I wouldn't expect the priming sugar to add more than 2 gravity points though which would bring it to 1.014SG max.

Either way, it was delicious and this thing hasn't even start to develop it full potential, so I'll just be patient. I just asked because the perceived sweetness surprised me.

 

[Jwin]

Was just curious if the yeast had pooped out on you. Not sure why, but corn sugar seems to add a sweetness that is more pronounced than that of wort, to me. I've primed in kegs a few times and chilled before attenuation was complete. Was teeth hurting sweet, until it attenuated. I'm sure you'll be good.

 

[cuda6pak]

For anyone that has used dry yeast for bottle priming, do you typically rehydrate the yeast before adding it?

My plan is to add half packet of EC 1118 and ~5.5oz corn sugar to the bottom of a corny (looking for 2.8 vol). Rack 5gal from my conical on top of the solution, and then bottle it with a Beer Gun.

Wasn't sure if it would be worth the extra step.

 

[Kee]

For anyone that has used dry yeast for bottle priming, do you typically rehydrate the yeast before adding it?

My plan is to add half packet of EC 1118 and ~5.5oz corn sugar to the bottom of a corny (looking for 2.8 vol). Rack 5gal from my conical on top of the solution, and then bottle it with a Beer Gun.

Wasn't sure if it would be worth the extra step.

My preferred method is sprinkling a little dry yeast in each bottle (after filling). For me it's quick and easy but it may not work for everyone.

BTW, I must have had a dozen or more batches of this recipe carbonate nicely without pitching additional yeast at bottling. But then I had one batch that refused to carbonate so I routinely use EC 1118 or something similar, just in case. If I shortened the secondary and didn't go crazy with the cold crash I may not bother.

 

[brew_darrymore]

For anyone that has used dry yeast for bottle priming, do you typically rehydrate the yeast before adding it?

My plan is to add half packet of EC 1118 and ~5.5oz corn sugar to the bottom of a corny (looking for 2.8 vol). Rack 5gal from my conical on top of the solution, and then bottle it with a Beer Gun.

Wasn't sure if it would be worth the extra step.

Yes, you need to do the extra step.

One thing I've noticed is that it takes a while for EC 1118 yeast grains to dissolve. If you just add half a packet and rack on top of it, the yeast will not dissolve immediately. I will rehydrate the yeast first - read the instructions on the packet and pay attention to the rehydration water temperature - 104F-109F, higher than the usual 75F-85F for other dry yeasts.

I have also successfully done what @Kee suggested, ie adding a few yeast grains in each bottle before capping. I had a batch that was not carbonated after 6 months. I opened all bottles, added 5-10 grains and re-capped and the beer is now carbonated!

 

[thedon986]

Brewed this last night with a somewhat modified recipe from the original. I followed the grist but deviated on the hops and used Mt. Hood instead of Hallertau Mittlefrueh and Styrian Celeia instead of Styrian Goldings. Those were the closest substitutes I could find locally. I had to add a bit of DME at the end to hit my gravity. Pitched 3787 at 64F and have a nice tall blow off tube to try to eliminate lost yeast. Less than 8 hours later it was bubbling at a nice clip already.

That was one tasty wort going into the fermenter! Very excited to age this one.

 

[DTM-oh]

The original post and many comments that followed have been most educational. This is my first post in the hope that conformation or suggestions might help this attempt be as good as those that have been shared in the past.

I have designed and constructed a HERMs with PLC control. I have been brewing for about 9 years, but only 1 year with this HERMs system. I have only brewed one Belgium in my past, a Chimay Grande Reserve--IPAs Stouts and Porters have been my preference.

I have made some changes to the original Westvleteren 12 Clone recipe, based on the threads that had made suggestions or improvements. My primary concern is fermentation. I can control temperature from 50 to 82 in a converted wine fridge.
The only change that came from outside was using four trappist yeasts instead of a starter.

MY recipe and plan:
(All calculations came from ProMash)
Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: WLP530 & Wyeast 3787
Yeast 530 Starter: 1.6L stir plate 1st pitch
Yeast 3787 Starter: 1.6L stir plate 2nd pitch day 3
Batch Size (Gallons): 5.5
Original Gravity: 1.100
Final Gravity: 1.012
IBU: 32
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 38
Primary Fermentation 1st (Days @ Temp): 3 @ 65-68
Primary Fermentation 2nd: 7 @ 68-82
Additional Fermentation: 60 @ 50
Secondary Fermentation: 2 @ 65

Specifications
Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Boil Size: 7.25 gal
Estimated OG: 1.100 SG
Estimated FG: 1.012 SG
Estimated ABV: 11.4 %
Estimated Color: 38.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 32 IBUs (Tinseth)
Brewhouse Efficiency: 80.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Quantities
Total Grains: 14 lbs 15.4 oz
Total Hops: 3.00 oz

Mash Ingredients
8 lbs Pilsner (2 Row) Dingemans (2.0 SRM) Grain 47.2 %
4 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) Dingemans (3.0 SRM) Grain 23.6 %
[[[[2 lbs D180 Candi Syrup (180.0 SRM) Sugar 11.8 % see BOIL]]]]
1 lbs 8.0 oz Caramunich Malt Dingemans (56.0 SRM) Grain 8.8 %
12.0 oz Biscuit Malt Dingemans (27.0 SRM) Grain 4.4 %
5.3 oz Aromatic Malt Dingemans (20.0 SRM) Grain 2 %
4.0 oz Special B Malt Dingemans (180.0 SRM) Grain 1.5 %
2.1 oz Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 0.8 %

Mash Steps
Mash In Add 20.94 qt of water at 149F 60 min 1.4 Qts per lbs.[my strike is 163]
Raise Mash Tun from 149 to 170 (10 min HERMs)
Fly sparge with 5.00 gal water at 170.0 F

Boil Ingredients
2 lbs D180 Candi Syrup (180.0 SRM) Sugar 11.8 %
1.00 oz Brewer's Gold [8.90 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 24.1 IBUs
1.00 oz Hersbrucher [4.2 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 4.2 IBUs
1.00 oz Styrian Goldings [2.8 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 3.8 IBUs
5.00 grams Wyeast Nutrient (Boil 5.0 mins)

 

[Kee]

The original post and many comments that followed have been most educational. This is my first post in the hope that conformation or suggestions might help this attempt be as good as those that have been shared in the past.

I have designed and constructed a HERMs with PLC control. I have been brewing for about 9 years, but only 1 year with this HERMs system. I have only brewed one Belgium in my past, a Chimay Grande Reserve--IPAs Stouts and Porters have been my preference.

I have made some changes to the original Westvleteren 12 Clone recipe, based on the threads that had made suggestions or improvements. My primary concern is fermentation. I can control temperature from 50 to 82 in a converted wine fridge.
The only change that came from outside was using four trappist yeasts instead of a starter.

MY recipe and plan:
(All calculations came from ProMash)
Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: WLP530 & Wyeast 3787
Yeast 530 Starter: 1.6L stir plate 1st pitch
Yeast 3787 Starter: 1.6L stir plate 2nd pitch day 3
Batch Size (Gallons): 5.5
Original Gravity: 1.100
Final Gravity: 1.012
IBU: 32
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 38
Primary Fermentation 1st (Days @ Temp): 3 @ 65-68
Primary Fermentation 2nd: 7 @ 68-82
Additional Fermentation: 60 @ 50
Secondary Fermentation: 2 @ 65

Specifications
Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Boil Size: 7.25 gal
Estimated OG: 1.100 SG
Estimated FG: 1.012 SG
Estimated ABV: 11.4 %
Estimated Color: 38.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 32 IBUs (Tinseth)
Brewhouse Efficiency: 80.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Quantities
Total Grains: 14 lbs 15.4 oz
Total Hops: 3.00 oz

Mash Ingredients
8 lbs Pilsner (2 Row) Dingemans (2.0 SRM) Grain 47.2 %
4 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) Dingemans (3.0 SRM) Grain 23.6 %
[[[[2 lbs D180 Candi Syrup (180.0 SRM) Sugar 11.8 % see BOIL]]]]
1 lbs 8.0 oz Caramunich Malt Dingemans (56.0 SRM) Grain 8.8 %
12.0 oz Biscuit Malt Dingemans (27.0 SRM) Grain 4.4 %
5.3 oz Aromatic Malt Dingemans (20.0 SRM) Grain 2 %
4.0 oz Special B Malt Dingemans (180.0 SRM) Grain 1.5 %
2.1 oz Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 0.8 %

Mash Steps
Mash In Add 20.94 qt of water at 149F 60 min 1.4 Qts per lbs.[my strike is 163]
Raise Mash Tun from 149 to 170 (10 min HERMs)
Fly sparge with 5.00 gal water at 170.0 F

Boil Ingredients
2 lbs D180 Candi Syrup (180.0 SRM) Sugar 11.8 %
1.00 oz Brewer's Gold [8.90 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 24.1 IBUs
1.00 oz Hersbrucher [4.2 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 4.2 IBUs
1.00 oz Styrian Goldings [2.8 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 3.8 IBUs
5.00 grams Wyeast Nutrient (Boil 5.0 mins)

Let us know how it goes.

 

[cuda6pak]

My preferred method is sprinkling a little dry yeast in each bottle (after filling). For me it's quick and easy but it may not work for everyone.

BTW, I must have had a dozen or more batches of this recipe carbonate nicely without pitching additional yeast at bottling. But then I had one batch that refused to carbonate so I routinely use EC 1118 or something similar, just in case. If I shortened the secondary and didn't go crazy with the cold crash I may not bother.

Yes, you need to do the extra step.

One thing I've noticed is that it takes a while for EC 1118 yeast grains to dissolve. If you just add half a packet and rack on top of it, the yeast will not dissolve immediately. I will rehydrate the yeast first - read the instructions on the packet and pay attention to the rehydration water temperature - 104F-109F, higher than the usual 75F-85F for other dry yeasts.

I have also successfully done what @Kee suggested, ie adding a few yeast grains in each bottle before capping. I had a batch that was not carbonated after 6 months. I opened all bottles, added 5-10 grains and re-capped and the beer is now carbonated!

Ended up putting 5.2oz corn sugar per keg, warmed up in a small amount of RO water. Also rehydrated half pack of EC1118 per keg before racking on top. Bottled 93 375ml Belgian bottles . Hoping to enter a few next year in some comps.

 

[DTM-oh]

Grist/Fermentables
----------------------------------
8.00 lbs Pilsner (2 Row) Belgian (2.0 SRM)
7.00 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) Belgian (3.0 SRM)
2.50 lbs D-180 Candi Syrup (180.0 SRM)

Mash Steps
---------------
Mash at 149.0 F 90 min
Fly or batch sparge 168.0 F

Boil Steps
---------------
Boil 90 minutes
Add hops and Servomyces per schedule, (make sure to open the Servomyces cap).
Stir-in adjuncts at 10 minutes prior to flame-out, (alternatively, stir in adjuncts at flame-out)

Boil Ingredients
---------------------
1.00 oz Brewer's Gold [8.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min
1.00 oz Hallertau Mittelfrueh [5.00%] - Boil 30 minutes
1.00 oz Styrian Goldings [4.10 %] - Boil 15.0 min
1.00 Items Servomyces - Boil 5.0 mins


Yeast Ingredients
----------------------------------
320 Billion cells or 3200 ml stir-plate starter seeded with 1.0 vial Abbey Ale (White Labs #WLP530)
***Krausen yeast method to be added here


Clear wort boil-down notes (Optional Step):
-------------------
(Optionally) perform a separate boil-down of 1.00 gallon of vorlaufed wort into a syrup using the following steps:
1. Extract 1.0 gallon of wort at the beginning of clear runoff into a 3-5 gallon pot.
2. Boil the wort down until it becomes a dark mahogany brown and is bubbling with large bubbles.
3. Be careful NOT to burn the maltose syrup.
4. The result will be approximately 24-26 ounces of syrup.
5. Re-crash the syrup by adding wort from the ongoing main boil.
6. Pour the dissolved liquid back in to the main boil.


Fermentation Pitch Notes:
---------------------
Chill wort to 63-64F
Oxygenate chilled wort to 8-10PPM by diffusing pure O2 via .05 micron diffuser for 90-120 seconds.
Pitch decanted yeast starter, adding chilled wort to the yeast flask to clear remaining yeast as necessary.
Ramp fermentation temp (evenly over time) from 63 - 80F over 7 days.


Fermentation Process Notes
---------------------
1/5/2012 - Primary Fermentation (7 days at 63F ending at 80.0 F)
1/23/2012 - Secondary Fermentation (3 -10 days at 78.0 F ending at 60.0 F)
1/26/2012 - Tertiary Fermentation (40 days at 50.0 F ending at 50.0 F)

Final Aged Ale
---------------------
In the end you should have a mohagany dark ale that is fragrant, malty, plummy, with a pillowy tan head and considerable Belgian lace. Like the pic below:

I plan to brew tomorrow (4/28/27). Your insight has been the primary direction I have chosen, thanks.
I have 2 questions,
1.How important is a 90 vs 60 min boil for this beer, I only need 5.5 gal at flame out?
2. I see where a 129F rest prior to Mash (not from you) is recommended sometimes. I don't have a preference, but would do it if it improved the beer.

 

[Kee]

I plan to brew tomorrow (4/28/27). Your insight has been the primary direction I have chosen, thanks.
I have 2 questions,
1.How important is a 90 vs 60 min boil for this beer, I only need 5.5 gal at flame out?
2. I see where a 129F rest prior to Mash (not from you) is recommended sometimes. I don't have a preference, but would do it if it improved the beer.

CSI has been missing in action, I don't know if he will answer. I've done it both ways and can't tell the difference, even though you will find plenty of people saying Pilsner malt needs the longer boil to boil off the precursor to DMS. Maybe it depends on how vigorous the boil is? Still, if I'm not pressed for time or my pre-boil gravity is a little low I'll do closer to 90 than 60.

And I get a good result with a single infusion mash.

One step I do recommend is aerating with pure oxygen (which CSI does). I fermented a few batches successfully without it but it helps keep the fermentation on schedule.

 

[DTM-oh]

Well, not far enough to report any results, other that 1.093 OG and 85% efficiency. I still use Pro-Mash and always get an OG forecast 5 to 10 points higher than actual.
Thanks for the blow off tube suggestion, fermentation is extremely active, an air lock would be a disaster.

 

[DTM-oh]

Starting the 5th day, the current SG is 1.013.
added 5-14-17 - Bad hydrometer, disregard above; maybe 1.026

 

[ten80]

Starting the 5th day, the current SG is 1.013.

You must have used a substantial starter or yeast cake if using Trappist High Gravity yeast. That's a nice drop!

I let mine age for 1-1.5 months on the yeast cake to add some complexity. I really like the results of aging beers on Trappist High Gravity yeast.

 

[DTM-oh]

You must have used a substantial starter or yeast cake if using Trappist High Gravity yeast. That's a nice drop!

I let mine age for 1-1.5 months on the yeast cake to add some complexity. I really like the results of aging beers on Trappist High Gravity yeast.

No, there was a link I found for Weasty 12 using a White lab 530 starter pitch on day one, then Wyeast 3787 starter pitch on day 3.

The starters were 32 oz water + 1/2 cup DME on a stir plate for 18 hrs. Then turn off stir plate and let settle for 6 hrs. Pour off 80% of clear wort, then mix & shake the bottom slurry with remaining wort and pitch. The starter recipe/process came from White Labs.

 

[Mer-man]

I just came back to say that mine is amazing. I have it on tap and it is clear and delicious with huge head. I should probably come back with a nice photo.

 

[thedon986]

You must have used a substantial starter or yeast cake if using Trappist High Gravity yeast. That's a nice drop!

I let mine age for 1-1.5 months on the yeast cake to add some complexity. I really like the results of aging beers on Trappist High Gravity yeast.

Do you leave on the yeast cake when you bring the temp back down after fermentation is done (if you did do that?). I would really like to avoid secondary if I can leave it on the yeast cake for 3-4 weeks more and then bottle.

 

[DTM-oh]

Do you leave on the yeast cake when you bring the temp back down after fermentation is done (if you did do that?). I would really like to avoid secondary if I can leave it on the yeast cake for 3-4 weeks more and then bottle.

I hadn't thought about secondary or not. Monday i'm going from 82F to 60F for 3-8 days then 50F 3-4 weeks. I may remain in primary.

 

[DTM-oh]

Do you leave on the yeast cake when you bring the temp back down after fermentation is done (if you did do that?). I would really like to avoid secondary if I can leave it on the yeast cake for 3-4 weeks more and then bottle.

I did go back and read CSI & Bottoms Up notes. The notes recommended secondary when primary reached 1.013 to slow fermentation as the target was 1.012. Maybe if the SG was high like 18 or 20 not transferring to secondary would be a good path. I think I will do a secondary as my SG of 1.013 (4 days ago) looks to be on target.

 

[thedon986]

I'm at a bit of a fork in the road and could use some advice. My gravity is down to 1.016-1.017 after almost two weeks (OG 1.091). I under-pitched a bit, but knew that going in and also used just short of a 1lb. of extract to hit my OG (grain crush issue).

I am willing to bottle this thing after the secondary at 50F as it tastes great, not sweet for the gravity and a bit of the Belgian character is coming through more as before it was all plum. Am I going to risk bottle bombs if I bottle with champagne yeast? I can keg and bottle from there, but would prefer not to if it's safe to bottle straight away. My third option would be to pitch a more aggressive strain but would rather not take the gravity too low or impart some of the esters/phenols from a saison strain or whatnot.

 

[catdaddy66]

Sampled this Saturday at my lhbs tasting and got a bunch of compliments on it, despite its youth (2months bottled). One lady from the homebrew club was amazed at the flavors for a high gravity beer (11%abv).

My brother said it was the best of the two dozen or so beers at the tasting!

 

[Kee]

I'm at a bit of a fork in the road and could use some advice. My gravity is down to 1.016-1.017 after almost two weeks (OG 1.091). I under-pitched a bit, but knew that going in and also used just short of a 1lb. of extract to hit my OG (grain crush issue).

I am willing to bottle this thing after the secondary at 50F as it tastes great, not sweet for the gravity and a bit of the Belgian character is coming through more as before it was all plum. Am I going to risk bottle bombs if I bottle with champagne yeast? I can keg and bottle from there, but would prefer not to if it's safe to bottle straight away. My third option would be to pitch a more aggressive strain but would rather not take the gravity too low or impart some of the esters/phenols from a saison strain or whatnot.

Even without the extract (which could hurt attenuation) re-pitching to get it down another couple of gravity points is hit or miss. But if the beer is clear I would not be afraid to bottle it, especially if you let the temperature rise during fermentation. The champagne yeast will only go after the simple sugars.

It's standard operating procedure for me to open a bottle periodically after a few weeks just to make sure there's no over-carbonation problem, partly because I push the envelope a little, and partly (truth be known) because I can't keep my hands off of it.

On the very slight change over-carbonation is a problem, just stick the rest into the fridge.

 

[thedon986]

Even without the extract (which could hurt attenuation) re-pitching to get it down another couple of gravity points is hit or miss. But if the beer is clear I would not be afraid to bottle it, especially if you let the temperature rise during fermentation. The champagne yeast will only go after the simple sugars.

It's standard operating procedure for me to open a bottle periodically after a few weeks just to make sure there's no over-carbonation problem, partly because I push the envelope a little, and partly (truth be known) because I can't keep my hands off of it.

On the very slight change over-carbonation is a problem, just stick the rest into the fridge.

Thanks for the feedback. I did follow the fermentation schedule for the most part and broughtt he beer up slightly over 80 and then set the controller for 78-79F. After the krausen dropped it cleared very quickly and was surprised how clear the gravity sample way. Sounds like I should be good to let it go at 50F then bottle from there.

 

[ten80]

Do you leave on the yeast cake when you bring the temp back down after fermentation is done (if you did do that?). I would really like to avoid secondary if I can leave it on the yeast cake for 3-4 weeks more and then bottle.

Yep, the beer stays on the yeast cake after dropping the temp back down to ambient (~60F) for a few weeks. The result is a crystal-clear beer with a very nice yeast profile. Don't worry about taking this beer off the yeast cake.

I just cracked a bottle after 5 weeks sitting at room temp to carbonate and the beer tastes great with an appropriate level of carbonation.

 

[ten80]

But if the beer is clear I would not be afraid to bottle it, especially if you let the temperature rise during fermentation. The champagne yeast will only go after the simple sugars.

Agreed, wine yeasts (including champagne yeast) cannot ferment maltose or maltotriose. The only danger would be if you added a bunch of simple sugar to the fermenter and your original beer yeast crapped out before consuming all of the sugar. Then the champagne yeast would go to town and over-carbonate the beer.

 

[ten80]

I did go back and read CSI & Bottoms Up notes. The notes recommended secondary when primary reached 1.013 to slow fermentation as the target was 1.012. Maybe if the SG was high like 18 or 20 not transferring to secondary would be a good path. I think I will do a secondary as my SG of 1.013 (4 days ago) looks to be on target.

I'm not a fan of stopping beer fermentations early, as you are setting yourself up for bottle bombs if any viable beer yeast is left in the bottle. It is interesting that CSI would mention transferring to a secondary. I see this as unnecessary, but to each their own!

I also strongly believe that letting this style of beer age on the yeast cake is beneficial to the flavor development which includes a lot of complexity from the yeast.

In general, a properly-designed recipe paired with the appropriate yeast should result in a beer that ends at the desired final gravity. Additions of maltodextrine, unmalted wheat, or oats can help maintain some residual gravity without adding much flavor.

 

[Kee]

I'm not a fan of stopping beer fermentations early, as you are setting yourself up for bottle bombs if any viable beer yeast is left in the bottle. It is interesting that CSI would mention transferring to a secondary. I see this as unnecessary, but to each their own!

I also strongly believe that letting this style of beer age on the yeast cake is beneficial to the flavor development which includes a lot of complexity from the yeast.

CSI used a conical and did a yeast dump, not an actual transfer for the secondary and tertiary (if memory serves). I've done both primary only and used secondary and it's difficult for my palate to tell one from the other. As you say, to each his own.

CSI noted that the tertiary stage was for brightening only. I've always found that unnecessary, but I don't enter competitions.

 

[DTM-oh]

Westy 12 (brew 4-28-17) update - Found a hair crack in my hydrometer %$#*. I think my OG of 1.093 was correct as I also did a Plato check of 22.2 before 1st pitch. Glad I always do both reads on OG.

5/14/17, day 16 - @ 70.8F with SG 1.014 (corrected 1.015) still in primary.
Looks like fermentation is on target to reach 1.012. Will reach 60F in 4 days.

 

[troglodytes]

This is turning out awesome!

So I did not secondary, but bottled after FG was hit. It has taken around 6 weeks to carb, but it is at the perfect carbonation level right now. I'm about to put it in cellar storage for a year now. I cannot wait until this hits its peak. The test bottle I just had (to ensure complete carbonation) is tremendous at only the 14 week mark. So much raisin, prune, fruity belgian flavor all wrapped into a rich but drinkable beer. I think mine finished at around 11.5% and you would never know.

 

[Oldskewl]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1494894744.492893.jpg

You guys tempted me to give mine a sample. I did 1 month in the primary following the fermentation temperature schedule. I then bottled and it has been in the bottle for 6 weeks. I had a mishap on bottling day as my valve was open as I was filling the bucket. I didn't know how much priming sugar I lost so I added .5 oz more on top of the 5.2 oz I started with. I was worried if it would carb at all.

Needless to say I have a nice Belgian style carb and the taste is amazing as it warms a bit. If this gets better with age it's gonna be awesome. Thanks to all who posted in this thread. I'm so glad I breed this Quad! No to pack it away so I keep my paws off of it. Ha ha!