

This is an excellent thread. Thanks for all the effort you put into compiling this information.
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So there are now two different recipes on here. The original with no specialty malts and higher amount of boiled down wort. And the second with a ton of specialty malts and less boiled down wort.
I guess I can just decide for myself which one I want to do? I'm gonna go ahead and pick the first one I guess.
Also wanted to say thanks to those who spent their time sharing all this info for the rest of us. I'll be making this as my first quad sometime soon!
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This is one of the most serious ales in the world and deserves the best that we have to contribute. Let's keep the trollers off the board.
(On the left hand side of the post you'll see a small red triangle with a black exclamation mark inside. If you see a troller, please don't IM me. Just click and report them. The HBT admins are great about booting trollers permanently off the board).
I am seriously impressed and grateful for the detail shown in this thread.
I am not going to be able to easily get my hands on candi syrup here (South Africa). I don't know much about different makes and grades of syrup.
As far as I can see I can get golden syrup, maple syrup or molasses syrup. I can also get a range of different honeys. I know they won't come close to candi syrup and i know what that means for the end result.
What is likely to give me the best result out of those options (in bold)?
I am not going to be able to easily get my hands on candi syrup here (South Africa). I don't know much about different makes and grades of syrup.
Well back to the subject at hand, cloning a great beer. I just brewed this up today. Thank you for all of the helpful tips posted into one area. Question for the OP - do you see any issue with doing the tertiary fermentation in a keg at 40F instead of 50F?
you can malt your own barley, culture your own yeast, grow your own hops, too.
Csi makes excellent product - if you are going to buy what he makes then i think you will be buying the best available.
There is no reason for this provocation, imo. This is a homebrew forum where we enjoy each other's company. Chill out and have fun with this recipe and beer.
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As long as your gravity is already at (1.012-1.013), brightening at 40F is fine. Are you using a temp controlled brightening tank?
Well back to the subject at hand, cloning a great beer. I just brewed this up today. Thank you for all of the helpful tips posted into one area. Question for the OP - do you see any issue with doing the tertiary fermentation in a keg at 40F instead of 50F?
We bottled a 10 gallon variation test version of this today, (brewed with all Dingeman's Pale). It was our 39th edition of this ale. This trial was much maltier but even with a breadier pallet the bittering hops came through in a much crisper way. Brewers Gold + Pale is may be worth mentioning.
Is the wort syrup to be stirred steadily, or does one treat it like a sugar syrup and let it stir itself with convection?
That sounds much closer to the Westvletern taste that my palate picked up. I thought that you already used Brewers Gold and Dingeman's Pale in your previous editions. What other differences dio you think account for the improved taste in this edition?
CSI is the ideal person to answer that. However, I seem to recall reading in the previous thread, that the syrup should be continually stirred, especially when the volume becomes small. Otherwise, part of it could burn, and you would end up with a burnt taste rather than a caramelized taste.
I have a question on the wort boil down.
Is the wort syrup to be stirred steadily, or does one treat it like a sugar syrup and let it stir itself with convection? I tried leaving it alone, but was getting some scary rates of carmelization that made me start stirring again. The boil would go still for 20 seconds or so, and then erupt out of the syrup with a lot of burned sugar smell (didn't manifest in the flavor, thankfully).
I've got some practice at making my own dark syrups. Mine aren't anywhere near as good as CSI's though. However, this wort syrup has a lot of protein in it, and I'm not sure how to handle it.
As long as your gravity is already at (1.012-1.013), brightening at 40F is fine. Are you using a temp controlled brightening tank?
Yes I will be putting it in a corny keg in my kegerator which has a temp controller set to 40F. I will let it age in there for awhile and then turn the gas on to carbonate. I will bottle directly from the keg unless you feel the end product is drastically better priming with the D180 syrup?
Thanks
Had a question though... reading through this thread you have teritary temps listed on page one as 50* and ending at 50* (40 days). On page two, you say 60* and ending at 36* (50 days.)
If you're referring to posts #1 and #21, the latter post is a copy of the original "revised" recipe by saq. Post #1 is a subsequent revision by CSI.
In post #21, as I read it, saq's goal was 5 days at 83 F, 2 days at 65 F, and 50 days at 60 F. Instead, his actual brewing appears to be have been 18 days at 83 F, 3 days going from 80 F to 60 F, and 3 days going from 60 F to 36 F. After that, he doesn't say how long he actually lagered it for. I assume it would also be for about 50 days, or even less, since it was at a lower temperature.