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Weldless Triclover Element?

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Bobby_M

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There's been some interest and I'm a sucker for something new to draw in CAD. We messed around with bolt on versions but scrapped the idea for a few different reasons. Right now we're focused on solder-on flanges like below:



IMG_6371.jpg
 
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Do you have a close up photo of the inside whith just the triclover installed, no element? I'm curious what the screws/bolts/studs/whatever you use to hold the fitting in looks like. Basically the 2nd photo, but with the triclover installed.
 
Looks awesome bobby. I will definitely be ordering the solder version when you put it up for sale.
 
Looks great - I'm definitely interested in the solder version.
 
Bobby,

I just placed an order with you but now wish I would have waited for a bit for you to release this thing. Exactly what I have been looking for. Might try the silver soldered one on my Blichmann if you do release it. Not so sure I want to drill that many holes. The contoured solder one would be real darn nice!
 
Do you have a close up photo of the inside whith just the triclover installed, no element? I'm curious what the screws/bolts/studs/whatever you use to hold the fitting in looks like. Basically the 2nd photo, but with the triclover installed.

I can take that closeup pic, but right now I have the screws shimmed out with various washers and nuts because the 4mm screws I have are too long.

If the screw-on flange does ever work out, the best way to convey the hole placement is with a paper template that you'd apply AFTER you have your 1.5" hole drilled or punched. That way the screw holes are relative to the actual center you end up with.

What I need to figure out is if four screw holes are enough for even gasket pressure. It should be because this install example is on the Bayou pots and they are about the thinnest wall you'd use. A keg would definitely work.

I also need to see if the radius on the face can adapt +/- for different pot diameters.


Hang in there on the solder units. I have two prototypes on hand and I'm fixinta try one today.
 
Thanks Bobby. I would be very interested in the option to purchase a 2" Weldless Tri-Clamp Ferule for my setup as well. Nice work. Thanks
 
I took some time today to try one of the solder-on ferrules. One mistake I made was using too much solder and for that reason, it's not photo worthy. Of course, the most important thing is that it's strong and liquid tight.

I only have the 1/8" diameter stay-brite #8 solder and I tried using a ring of it similar to how I like to attach the weld-spuds. However, since the tolerance is so tight with the radiused surface, it was way too much and it globbed all over the damned pot when the weight of the ferrule dropped into the molten solder.

The way it should work:
Drill or punch pot to 1.5". The Greenlee 1" conduit punch and die is awesome for this.
Sand solder surfaces, flange, etc..
Apply Harris Stay Clean liquid flux to both surfaces.
Line it up in place, centered over the hole.
Clamp in place with a pair of small C-clamps or you can also use a long bolt, nut, and a pair of fender washers.
Heat the ferrule directly, moving around the circumference. When the flux starts boiling, start testing if the solder starts melting at the pot/ferrule joint.
Once it flows, remove the heat and just work the solder around the joint and let it wick in. It won't take much solder given the small gap. If it starts dripping out of the sides or into the pot, you're done. Let it cool, clean the flux off with some spirits on a rag, and polish it up with some barkeeper's friend or other SS polish.
 
Drill or punch pot to 1.5". The Greenlee 1" conduit punch and die is awesome for this.

Did you say this part right? 1.5" & 1"?

Is there any concern for the strength of the soldered connection? The hardware we might hang off a ferrule, especially, adds up in weight.
 
Did you say this part right? 1.5" & 1"?

Is there any concern for the strength of the soldered connection? The hardware we might hang off a ferrule, especially, adds up in weight.

Yes - a 1" conduit punch doesn't make a 1" hole. The actual hole is around 1.4".
 
What I need to figure out is if four screw holes are enough for even gasket pressure. It should be because this install example is on the Bayou pots and they are about the thinnest wall you'd use. A keg would definitely work.
Bobby,

I'm very interested in one of these. The typical weldless device involves only a gasket and screw-on nut that you tighten down to effect a water-tight seal. Is it due to the diameter of these that this cannot apply here and you have to employ mounting screws?

OTOH, once you've determined how many screws this design will require, it will still be easier for those of us who possess no welding skills.

Please keep us posted,
Keith
 
Did you say this part right? 1.5" & 1"?

Is there any concern for the strength of the soldered connection? The hardware we might hang off a ferrule, especially, adds up in weight.

Yup, sorry. Actual hole size is around 1.5" literal. The 1" conduit punch is very close because 1" pipe has an OD around 1-3/8". I know it's confusing. You either need a 1.5" radio punch or a 1" conduit punch, both having an actual hole size of 1.5" Measure twice, punch once.


Silver solder strength? I believe you'd rip a tear in the side of a pot before the solder would let go.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqDdkzVDvRY


If you're extra concerned, you could drill a series of 1/16" holes in the pot within the footprint of the flange to have the solder grab onto. The same can be done on the flange for even more surface area. In both cases I think it's overkill.
 
Bobby,

I'm very interested in one of these. The typical weldless device involves only a gasket and screw-on nut that you tighten down to effect a water-tight seal. Is it due to the diameter of these that this cannot apply here and you have to employ mounting screws?

OTOH, once you've determined how many screws this design will require, it will still be easier for those of us who possess no welding skills.

Please keep us posted,
Keith

Curious about the same things myself.
 
The solder-on version is in production right now, due in stock by the end of September. I didn't pull the trigger on the bolt on just yet. I need to prove to myself that the first install wasn't beginner's luck. It held water tight just fine even after a lot of deliberate hosteling of the element enclosure, etc. To be honest, the solder process is easier and way more forgiving. Do it poorly the first time and you can start over without ruining the kettle.
 
I'm not 100% sure yet, but I'll speculate. The first plan is to package it with my element enclosure kit at a discount but I'll definitely have enough to sell them separately. Just the raw double flange fitting will be somewhere in the $19-20 area. The kit with the enclosure, gasket, and clamp is probably going to be around $59. I'm also planning on offering it with a larger cord grip and electrical terminals for the big 10 gauge cables.
 
Great. Looking forward to picking up a couple of the solder-on version kits. How about a solder-on TC bottom drain kit as well? Seems like a perfect solution for flat bottom kettles.
 
What exactly differentiates the solder-on version from a typical weld-on ferrule?
 
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