Weldless Bulkhead Success Rate Poll

[Bernie Brewer]

I have weldless fittings on both my keggle and my HLT. The directions that came with the kit said that you can't over-tighten them, so I reefed on those bad boys as hard as I could. It's been years now with absolutely no issues.

 

[conpewter]

Can someone change my vote? I meant to vote that

Cooler - no issues ever
Kettle - issues but fixed with more pipe tape

 

[greencon]

I have them on my 10 gal. Igloo and on a 10 gal. aluminum pot never leaked.

 

[hayabusa]

Cooler - Leaked initially but I got it to seal (note how)

how? See my post about using baby nipples as washers... leaks are a thing of the past.

 

[Coastarine]

I voted "Metal Vessel - Leaked initially but I got it to seal." I was trying to use teflon goo but found that it was not equivalent to teflon tape.

If I could have voted for two, I would have also put "Cooler - Installed and never leaked"

 

[TwoHeadsBrewing]

Weldless has worked fine on both my 10g cooler and 3 different keggles. In my opinion, if you get leaks it's becuase:

a) you didn't drill the hole properly, or clean up the edges
b) you didn't use teflon tape on the theads
c) the supplier didn't supply the right O-rings/washers with your part (never had this happen)

I've bought a weldless fitting from home depot, just brass parts put together on my own. This worked great, no leaks. I've also bought one from morebeer.com, and again no problems. And just lately I ordered a SS weldless ball valve from bargainfittings.com and this was the cheapest and best of all (?!). The only time it leaked was when I didn't tighten one all the way. One quarter turn and all was fixed. I know some people have friends that can weld, but I don't and it would cost me 20+ bucks to get a coupling put in. Instead I just bought a $12 7/8" drill bit from Lowe's and a $20 weldless fitting. Works for me!

 

[Denny's Evil Concoctions]

I never used any from a HBS. On 2 kegs they are jury rigged pieces I made up myself (PITA) and one is from a place called century vallen in Canada. It was brass though. It was an actual "bulkhead fitting" and it worked great.

As far as SS goes I don't think they had any, either that or they were an arm and a leg in cost. CV changed to a min charge on cash orders of $100 and might have gotten rid of cash (no account) orders all together.

Yes, I admit it, I have dissimilar metals! BWAHAHHAHHAHHHA

 

[BargainFittings]

I've converted a lot of pots, kegs and coolers. I've both drilled and used the preexisting holes in coolers.

Lots of good suggestions exist here and TwoHeadsBrewing touched on the most likely causes.

I suggest that people under drill the hole and keep testing the fitting until it just barely threads in. Easier to grind the hole bigger than to fill in a gap with Teflon tape.

I've only had a couple issues with drips and always fixed it fairly fast by either tightening the locknut or ensuring the oring is seated behind the washer/locknut.

 

[Homercidal]

I installed a bulkhead fitting into my cooler and got it to work when I got the right combinations of parts to make it fit snug, but not too tight. Last time I tried, I had to bakc off just a bit and then the leak stopped.

I blame crappy Bulkhead fitting. It was designed to fit a much narrower gap than the cooler thickness. The threads were just to short for the nut to fit properly and provide a snug fit. I use a SS nipple and finally drilled a couple of washers to fit and got it just right.

If I had to do another one, I'd find a chunk of brass and build my own bulkhead fitting long enough to fit a nut and with a groove for the O-ring so it doesn't squish out. THat should make it simple and foolproof.

I looked and looked, but could not find a bulkhead fitting that was the right diameter and long enough.

 

[beach]

The weldless fittings on my aluminum HLT sealed just fine. My cooler/ MLT however took bobby m's method along with silicone washers cut from a pie pan to seal the deal.

 

[TwoHeadsBrewing]

all right, I have to change my vote. After taking off the weldless fittings on my boil keggle and MLT they started leaking. I tried everything to get them to seal but the o-rings kept squishing out and not even a machined locknut kept it from leaking. I've been using these kegs for about 6 months without leaks. I finally bit the bullet and took the two kegs down to the LHBS to have them welded up. Cost me $25 each which included the SS 1/2" coupler. A bit steep, but I don't know anyone else who welds stainless.

I still have a weldless fitting on my HLT, which has never leaked on me. I assume this is because I never need to take it off. We'll see how long that lasts .

 

[BlindLemonLars]

I finally bit the bullet and took the two kegs down to the LHBS to have them welded up. Cost me $25 each which included the SS 1/2" coupler. A bit steep, but I don't know anyone else who welds stainless.

Is that per keg, or per coupler? I just had a local guy give me a quote: $35 for welding each coupler. (I provide the hardware.) This is not a welding shop, just a guy with a welding rig, who has done keggles before. Seems a bit steep.

 

[Bobby_M]

It is steep. I paid $130 for 9 coupling welds and a bunch of washers tacked to the lids.

 

[The Pol]

I have a commercial fitting on my keggle, never leaked

I have self designed bulkheads on my MLT and HLT, never leaked.

I suppose I am lucky.

 

[Displaced MassHole]

I have a total of 3 weldless bulkheads, 2 on 10 gallon igloo coolers (from B3) and one on a keggle (from bargain fittings). Neither have leaked once in 4+ years of service.

The bulkhead that has been nothing but a headache from the beginning is the one B3 uses for the thermometer option on the cooler mashtun. It requires a half roll of teflon tape every few brew days.

 

[Displaced MassHole]

Hey Bobby-
I know you started this thread because you don't seem to have confidence in weldless fittings, but looking at the numbers on the poll, it seems that most (including myself) have never had a problem with their weldless bulkheads.

Do you think that it is more of an "operator error" issue, or something else. I'm not slamming anyone whose weldless bulkhead leaks it just seems that the people who they DO work for out number those that DON'T.

 

[TwoHeadsBrewing]

Is that per keg, or per coupler? I just had a local guy give me a quote: $35 for welding each coupler. (I provide the hardware.) This is not a welding shop, just a guy with a welding rig, who has done keggles before. Seems a bit steep.

I'm not really sure what the going rate for that stuff is. But he did provide the SS coupler, and do the welding for $25 per coupler. Seemed reasonable.

 

[scinerd3000]

mine leaked initially. I took it apart and then used teflon tape and reassembiled...after tightening the daylights out of the nut, it sealed and i havent had a problem since.

 

[carnevoodoo]

I got weldless bulkheads for my mash tun and my kettle, and I've never had a problem with either. I got them from Blichmann with my three piece ball valves. No complaints yet, about a year and 9 months in.

 

[splobucket]

I gotta wonder, has anyone tried using high temperature caulking?

 

[wildwest450]

I gotta wonder, has anyone tried using high temperature caulking?

No, because it isn't necessary.

 

[mariojr]

I can get mine to seal but sometimes it takes more than one try. Just when I think I found the key it doesn't work the following time. The washer that I have seen soldered to the coupling seems like the way to go for a near 100% success rate. Someone should start marketing those.

 

[Bobby_M]

Thread resurrection for sure but I agree with you. The problem with the soldered washer is the time. Unless someone were to get them produced in China at 10,000 units, the labor makes it cost prohibitive. The typical weldless bulkhead goes for what, $13? Would you pay an extra $7 for the solder?

 

[mariojr]

I'd put a small ring of food safe sealant on the coupling and nipple connection then put the washer and o-ring. That should do the trick or a very thin silicone flat washer would be better in my opinion.

 

[Suicided1954]

Installed in keg and Initially leaked in one and not the other. I used pipe dope on the non-leaker and regular teflon tape on the one that leaked...fixed with the teflon in a tube...

 

[nfbrewer]

I spent a couple of weeks trying to get an old rectangular cooler I had on hand to seal. I used the "no leak mlt bulkhead" design you can find elsewhere on this forum, with many variations of gaskets and o-rings and varying amounts of torque. It always leaked pretty quickly.

I finally gave up and bought a rubbermaid/home depot 10 gallon cylindrical cooler. From in to out I used:

bazooka filter -> coupler -> SS washer -> o-ring -> gasket that came in cooler <-cooler wall-> <- several washers <- lock nut <- ball valve <- hose barb

It worked great - no leaks the first time. It took about 15 minutes to put together. No drilling. Definitely go with this type of cooler, as it's made specifically to hold liquid and works really well.

 

[MagicMatt]

bazooka filter -> coupler -> SS washer -> o-ring -> gasket that came in cooler <-cooler wall-> <- several washers <- lock nut <- ball valve <- hose barb

Resurrecting the dead!!!

That seems a bit like overkill though. For my 10gal Igloo (cylindrical) cooler, in-to-out:

hose barb(MLT)/coupler(HLT) > cooler wall < flat silicon washer < SS washer < ball valve < hose barb


Installed as per instructions that came with the bulkhead (designed specifically for these coolers), including teflon tape on the entire nipple. Never had a drop leak.

 

[Soulshine2]

My $0.02 for now. Bought a 10 gallon boil kettle and it came with the 2 weldless (O-ring type) bulkheads ,valve and thermometer with 1 nipple fitting. I plan on brewing next friday following thanksgiving so I assembled it today. First fill up with cold water, leaked immediately. Had to run around today so bought some Gorilla sealant (100% silicone, "30 minute waterproof" ) . I took the washers and put in a vise , made then slightly curved to match the BK side curvature. Omitted the outside o-ring and applied the sealant , tightened up the inside nut tight as I could. Waited a few minutes until the sealant got a little thick. Filled up with water to about the 8 gallon mark, no leaks cold. Waiting until tomorrow maybe to test it out hot to see if it leaks with boiling water . I'll report back asap.