• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Welcome Beginning Brewers!

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks VikeMan

It's more the terms used by users of this forum (and others) that I was concerned with.

For instance, I came across a thread about "whirlpooling". It took me quite a bit of reading to realise that in UK we would call that "stirring rapidly". As I once was contracted to do some work for Whirlpool, the white goods manufacturer, I initially imagined the action of "whirlpooling" to involve the use of a machine.

Having said that, I may still not have got the meaning of "whirlpooling" correct, hence my request for somebody to make a name for themselves by compiling a list of US abbreviations.

Regards and keep safe
 
Can I make beer as it is the Hazfaiden beer and from barley or local wheat here in the Middle East and does barley need to be roasted before cooking. Greetings to all
 
I just added gelatin for my two batches of ’warm lager’ (34/70) that I have cold crashed to around 4 celcius. I tried to squeeze the fermenters to get extra oxygen out as I was sealing the lid. One air lock started bubbling afterwards and the other one didn’t. What are the chances that too much oxygen stayed in and the beer will get oxidized?
 
I used Red Star Classique which is a strain of saccharomyces cerevisiae. I found a research paper that says the following:

The highest incidence of killer yeasts was found in the genus Hansenula (12 of the 29 strains examined). Saccharomyces, the best represented genus in the Collection, showed a low incidence of killer activity and many of the killer strains are hybrids with a common S. cerevisiae parent.

I guess I'll find out soon enough if I have a killer strain...
A quick update:
I had originally pitched old ale yeast, had little to no activity. I had wine yeast and bread yeast on hand to use. As advised, I used the wine yeast but it did not reach full attenuation, so I decided to pitch bread yeast to finish it off. I was concerned that the wine was a killer yeast strain, but the bread yeast worked well, I had ended up at about 6.6% ABV. After the wine fermentation, it had an appley flavor, but after the final bread yeast fermentation, the apple taste seems to have subsided. I bottled the beer today and what little I could not bottle, I sampled. I was pleasantly surprised at the result... can't wait to taste the final product.

All of that said, I am wondering if anybody thinks that it would be worthwhile to save the yeast from the bucket. My thought was that I could try it in a small batch. I am curious as to the effects of the two yeasts having fermented this beer together among other things.
 
Thanks VikeMan

It's more the terms used by users of this forum (and others) that I was concerned with.

For instance, I came across a thread about "whirlpooling". It took me quite a bit of reading to realise that in UK we would call that "stirring rapidly". As I once was contracted to do some work for Whirlpool, the white goods manufacturer, I initially imagined the action of "whirlpooling" to involve the use of a machine.

Having said that, I may still not have got the meaning of "whirlpooling" correct, hence my request for somebody to make a name for themselves by compiling a list of US abbreviations.

Regards and keep safe
Whirlpooling absolutely is stirring rapidly, but no-one uses that term as it doesn’t sound as cool...

Any other ones you need translating? Happy to help!
 
Whirlpooling absolutely is stirring rapidly, but no-one uses that term as it doesn’t sound as cool...

Any other ones you need translating? Happy to help!
Whirlpooling is getting a whirlpool going in your BK. It can be done by stirring, or by recirculating wort with a pump (using an outlet in the BK that has a high degree of tangency with the kettle wall.)

Brew on :mug:
 
Whenever I brew hoppy beers, I have always struggled separating the wort from the hops and trub after boil. While the wort generally clears on its own, the hops settle to the bottom and proteins coagulate to my copper immersion chiller, when I try to siphon the clear wort into my fermenter, inevitably it starts sucking in trub and hop particulate. Out of frustration and not wanting to only get 1-2 gal of clear wort from my 5 gal batch, I typically try to filter, either with mesh sieve or bag to get maximum volume in my fermenter but my goal is the clear, separated wort, not all the trub and hops. I’ve read that whirlpooling will naturally separate the hops and trub from the wort. My whirlpooling attempts only resulted in disturbing the wort layers which then settled back down to the way I previously described.

What is the best way to chill and transfer clear wort from boil kettle into my fermenter?
 
Not a question, just a hi from a 50 year old complete newb from the UK. I've built a bar, brought a three line chiller and have just ordered 6 * 19l kegs, some home brew equipment and my first three beer kits, if I get the hang of those, I might get brave and try making beer from scratch.
Just the gas and regulators to get, wish me luck.

Tony.
 
Hello 89Hen,

I'm new to this forum and noticed your post. I've been brewing quite a while, but in England. American terms and products are very different to those used or available in UK. Did anyone ever answer your post about abbreviations?

shunter50
Funny timing. I was just talking about this very post this weekend. Unfortunately, no. I am still in the dark with a lot of the acronyms and terms and spend far too much time trying to figure them out.

Gentleman,

I present to you the glossary of HBT:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Home_Brew_Acronyms
 
Not all hero's wear capes...I'm just a bald headed bearded dude who once lurked in these forums and had no idea what was going on...glad to be of help!
 
Hello,
Its probably been answered a thousand times. However, I'll ask again . . .
What is the essential equipment required to home brew? I have never brewed before but would like to try. was looking to do a German Dunkel.
Essential list would be amazing seen as my wife keep harassing's me what I want for Xmas!
Thanks in advance!
 
Hello,
Its probably been answered a thousand times. However, I'll ask again . . .
What is the essential equipment required to home brew? I have never brewed before but would like to try. was looking to do a German Dunkel.
Essential list would be amazing seen as my wife keep harassing's me what I want for Xmas!
Thanks in advance!

That's a huge question- since a dunkel is a lager, it would require cool (cold) fermentation, so that could be a tough one to start with. There are homebrewing "kits" out there that have most of what you need, but you would also need a large enough pot to boil 3 gallons or so.
 
What is the essential equipment required to home brew?
I think "There's more than one way to skin a cat" applies to homebrewing at least as much as anything else.
Some people prefer to brew indoors while others prefer to brew outdoors.
Some people prefer to brew with extract while others prefer to use only grain (and everywhere in between).
Some people prefer to brew 5 gallons but the number of 1, 2, 3 and 10 gallons brewers seems to be growing.
Some people prefer a shiny 3-vessel system while others prefer the simplicity of Brew-In-A-Bag (BIAB) or an All-In-One.
Some people (masochists ;)) prefer to bottle, while others prefer to keg.

You need a kettle (what size depends a lot on the above).
You need a heat source.
You need a cleaner and a sanitizer (Oxyclean and StarSan will do).
You need a hydrometer.
You need a fermentor with some kind of airlock.
You need some kind of temperature control.
You need some way to package the final product.
 
@mcmungus To piggyback on what bleme said; another thing you need is time.

A rough estimate for the following methods:
All Grain: 5-6 hours for 5 gallons
Extract: 2-5 hours for 5 gallons

Most kits will cover the boil and fermentation side, but after a batch or two you’ll realize the need for the ability to control fermentation temps.

Morebeers starter kits are among the better kits I’ve come across. Here is a well priced starter kit for extract that has everything but a heating element and some type of temp control for fermentation.
Premium Home Brewing Kit | MoreBeer
 
I think "There's more than one way to skin a cat" applies to homebrewing at least as much as anything else.
Some people prefer to brew indoors while others prefer to brew outdoors.
Some people prefer to brew with extract while others prefer to use only grain (and everywhere in between).
Some people prefer to brew 5 gallons but the number of 1, 2, 3 and 10 gallons brewers seems to be growing.
Some people prefer a shiny 3-vessel system while others prefer the simplicity of Brew-In-A-Bag (BIAB) or an All-In-One.
Some people (masochists ;)) prefer to bottle, while others prefer to keg.

You need a kettle (what size depends a lot on the above).
You need a heat source.
You need a cleaner and a sanitizer (Oxyclean and StarSan will do).
You need a hydrometer.
You need a fermentor with some kind of airlock.
You need some kind of temperature control.
You need some way to package the final product.
I have to ask a perhaps dumb question about Oxyclean. The only Oxyclean that I am aware of is a laundry detergent and a laundry spray stain remover. Is this what people are using to clean equipment? If so, why? I realize dish detergent may be fragrant and thus you may not want to use it, but I believe Oxyclean is fragrant also. So, what advantages over plain dish detergent does it have for cleaning brew equipment?
 
I have to ask a perhaps dumb question about Oxyclean. The only Oxyclean that I am aware of is a laundry detergent and a laundry spray stain remover. Is this what people are using to clean equipment? If so, why? I realize dish detergent may be fragrant and thus you may not want to use it, but I believe Oxyclean is fragrant also. So, what advantages over plain dish detergent does it have for cleaning brew equipment?

When people talk about using Oxiclean for brewing equipment, they often mean Oxiclean "Free," which isn't fragrant. But either way, yes, it's the powder that comes in tubs, and its main purpose is laundry stain removal. The advantage over plain dish soap is that it works better, and requires less scrubbing.

FWIW, PBW works even better, but is more expensive.
 
I have to ask a perhaps dumb question about Oxyclean. The only Oxyclean that I am aware of is a laundry detergent and a laundry spray stain remover. Is this what people are using to clean equipment? If so, why? I realize dish detergent may be fragrant and thus you may not want to use it, but I believe Oxyclean is fragrant also. So, what advantages over plain dish detergent does it have for cleaning brew equipment?
This thread is very long and contains a lot of rubbish, but if you "eat the meat and toss the bones" there is a lot to learn about OxyClean here: Oxiclean...two years and no infections
 
What's next?

I am trying to develop my process (learn the basics) every time and learn from the mistakes but there is still so much to learn. Assuming I have taken the following things into consideration, what is the next step? Should I focus on these and learn more detailed information first or start studying water chemistry for example?

- Stable temp single infusion mash and boil
- trying to keep yeast happy - rehydration, aerating the wort, pitching in right temp, keeping stable fermentation temp and maturing after active period
- priming in bottling bucket and trying to minimize oxidation (I don't have CO2 or oxygen absorbing caps though)
 
trying to keep yeast happy - rehydration, aerating the wort, pitching in right temp, keeping stable fermentation temp and maturing after active period

IMO this should be your next step...while water is certainly important considering how much beer is water if your water tastes good then the beer in theory should be good as well.

Fermentation on the other hand is where I believe good beer can become better. Healthy yeasts=better attenuation and more flavorful beers.
 
I don't see any reason that you can't work on improving in all these areas, and more. They're all worthwhile and not mutually exclusive. As far as having a lot to learn, that won't stop.
 
This is a great place to start if you have ANY questions at all about brewing your own beer.

From Mr. Beer and extract kits to all-grain brewing, we welcome all new brewers who have questions or need advice on their equipment, techniques, fermentation, wort making, yeast, and more.

If you have a question, that means that others probably have had the same question too so no question is too silly. I promise. Ask us!

And to more experienced brewers, it goes without saying that we will be welcoming of those questions and be as helpful as possible in our answers. If someone feels that they can't be positive and helpful, they should refrain from posting in the Beginner's Forum. Ask me if you are unsure if something is appropriate- remember what your mother told you, "If you can't say something nice, then don't say anything at all!"

Feel free to message one of the admins or moderators if you have any problems with posting on the forum, or if you have any problems with navigating around the forum at all.

Cheers!
Good afternoon everyone ! I just recently made my first run of home brew from my home brew kit I purchased from craft brew.com. It’s a 1 gallon glass set up came with all the materials and ingredients. I followed instructions in the packet . Started to ferment slowly like 1 bubble every so often the 2nd day it began to increase this morning it was back to a single bubble again . Very little to no foam in the carboy . Room temp is 67 degrees. Did something go wrong or is this how it happens I have videos of the first 2 days if you’d like to see any help be great thanks
 
Good afternoon everyone ! I just recently made my first run of home brew from my home brew kit I purchased from craft brew.com. It’s a 1 gallon glass set up came with all the materials and ingredients. I followed instructions in the packet . Started to ferment slowly like 1 bubble every so often the 2nd day it began to increase this morning it was back to a single bubble again . Very little to no foam in the carboy . Room temp is 67 degrees. Did something go wrong or is this how it happens I have videos of the first 2 days if you’d like to see any help be great thanks
Sounds like something is happening. Does it smell good?

Do you have a hydrometer? If so, did you take a gravity reading before fermenting? If you did, then you could take another reading now to check how far along it is.

My beer (5gallons) usually takes about 2 weeks to be done fermenting, but it only bubbles for a about 2-4 days. It is normal for it to slow down and then not bubble at all while it finishes up.
 
Sounds like something is happening. Does it smell good?

Do you have a hydrometer? If so, did you take a gravity reading before fermenting? If you did, then you could take another reading now to check how far along it is.

My beer (5gallons) usually takes about 2 weeks to be done fermenting, but it only bubbles for a about 2-4 days. It is normal for it to slow down and then not bubble at all while it finishes up.
I do not have a hydrometer. It didn’t come with kit and the was no instruction to use one so didn’t know I needed one but I guess I’ll get one . I did not smell it didn’t want to shake up the carboy and wasn’t sure if I should pull the rubber cork . Instruction said to use the blow off assembly which was a hose into a glass jar . When bubbles slowed to switch over to the airlock which I did . First pick is the way I stored it in a dark cool place . Hope this helps and again thanks for the help
 

Attachments

  • 2DAA9FD8-544B-46EE-8CC3-445FD98D7A15.jpeg
    2DAA9FD8-544B-46EE-8CC3-445FD98D7A15.jpeg
    1.3 MB
  • 88DB28C4-C4BD-4AB3-8360-3C7168142A4D.jpeg
    88DB28C4-C4BD-4AB3-8360-3C7168142A4D.jpeg
    1 MB
That looks fine to me. Just wait till the time is up and taste it while bottling. You'll be able to tell if it's good on bottling day. All it does in the bottles is carbonate and get a bit smoother.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top