Best recommendation I can make is to purchase “How to brew” 4e by John Palmer and read the first 2-3 chapters or Charlie Papazian’s book “The Complete Joy of Homebrewing”. Both willI have never brewed before. This seems like a great place to start, before I start. Can I get a recommendation for starter kits? I really want to learn the process thoroughly.
The instructions on the Harris Pure Brew Beer Kit water treatment is to crush one tablet and add along with a teaspoon of powder before adding the yeast, so that's what I did. I've done the same once before in a previous kit, which worked just fine, so I'm guessing that isn't the issue here.This is probably campden for removing chlorine/chloramine. It should be added to the water before it is mixed with the malt extract.
Ah, I'm not bottling, but transferring to a pressure barrel as I've done a number of times before (but not with a Coopers Irish Stout), so my next step would be to syphon into my pressure barrel for the secondary fermentation.If you bottle before fermentation is finished, it will finish in the bottle. This can cause gushers or bottle bombs - you don't want that! I check gravity after 19 days, and again at 21 days- and bottle if it is stable. It almost always is. (Three days between readings is better if using a standard hydrometer. I use a bottling hydrometer and can detect small changes.) I wouldn't bottle after less than three weeks if I hadn't checked for stable gravity.
So I'm stumped now - do I wait and see what happens, or should I stick with the instructions supplied by Coopers and transfer my batch into my pressure barrel on Saturday / Sunday (which would be 6 days (Saturday) at around 21°C, maybe 7 days (Sunday) for a slightly lower temperature)?Hint: Temperature Control. Whilst the yeast that comes with the brew can will ferment effectively at 18°C - 32°C, we recommend a brew temperature of 21°C-27°C for optimum results. Some techniques for controlling temperature are; hot box (box with a low wattage light globe attached inside), heat pad, heat belt, immersion heater, place FV inside in a temperature controlled area, insulate FV, place in disused fridge, drape wet towels over FV.
After about 6 days at 21°C or 4 days at 27°C (higher temperatures shorten the ferment time) test the SG with a hydrometer. Test the SG each day. Final Gravity (FG) is reached once SG is stable 2 days in a row.
Important: Lower ferment temperatures extend the fermentation period. See Brewing notes for European Lager.
Yeah, my pant size and my weight.let's not forget that to brew a 10-20-1000 gallon batch, time doesn't increase just size, and weight.....
Yeah, my pant size and my weight.
Seriously though the time it takes to heat up that much volume for mashing does take quite a bit longer. With extract you have the benefit of using half or less volume and topping off with prechilled water which shortens your time chilling wort.
Plus my extremely time efficient (or extremely lazy, your choice) method of short boils means I only boil for 20-30 minutes.
I almost just picked up my bucket, garden hose and a bag of DME to see if I can beat 5 min, loli'd figure you'd have a bigger burner for more volume, bigger mash tun, pumps and the like....
yeah extract beer can be made in 5 minutes! just add your extract to a bucket of water, toss in a bag of hops to dry hop. and add yeast!
I almost just picked up my bucket, garden hose and a bag of DME to see if I can beat 5 min, lol
Coopers Irish Stout Malt ExtractCoopers 3.75 pound cans are designed to make 6 gallons with an original gravity of 1.040 (with 2.25 LB of dry malt extract or sugar) giving about 4.1% ABV. We prefer to make 5 gallons with 3 LB of dry malt extract to give an OG of about 1.054 and 5.5% ABV.
What would you recommend if not? Based on my limited experience of previous batches, 3 days seems very short, especially given the weather in the UK hasn't been that warm! My last batch was brewed when it was quite warm here in the UK, but that spent 5 days in the FV before being syphoned out into my pressure barrel (and there were clear signs of fermentation with that one - bubbles, krausen and the smell of beer!) whereas this has been 3 days and it doesn't seem like it's done much...Question is did you get enough fermentation.
I think most of us have been there. Occasionally there is a batch that seems to do its own thing. Only thing I can suggest when something happens this early on in the fermentation is to be patient. Unless there is noticeable pellicule growth going on then waiting a few more days is usually best.Thanks @NGD, appreciate the input. Still getting my head around a lot of this, as I've only done a handful of kits myself and they all seem to be quite straight forward, whereas this is the first one that doesn't seem to have gone to plan, so just trying to save my batch if it is possible!
I agree, 3 days does sound a little soon. The only way to know is to take a sample. I’m not sure if Cooper kits provide a suggested final gravity (FG), but if its below 1.020 then your getting probably close. If its 1.011 or lower then its likely done.What would you recommend if not? Based on my limited experience of previous batches, 3 days seems very short, especially given the weather in the UK hasn't been that warm! My last batch was brewed when it was quite warm here in the UK, but that spent 5 days in the FV before being syphoned out into my pressure barrel (and there were clear signs of fermentation with that one - bubbles, krausen and the smell of beer!) whereas this has been 3 days and it doesn't seem like it's done much...
Go on then. If I have to drink a smidge of beer, then I guess I'll have too...See if it tastes close to what you think it should...
The photo shows you had fermentation - even up to the lid. You still need to see if it's finished, as NGD suggested. You're lucky it didn't plug the airlock and blow the lid off. Looks like you could use more freeboard in the fermenter. Many brewers use a blow-off tube that's less prone to plugging. I use a 7.9 gallon bucket for 5 gallons batches.@ncbrewer - did you see my photo of my FV posted a little earlier?
To minimize oxygen exposure and wasted beer samples, it would be better to wait 2-3 days before pulling the next sample. One day apart isn't really the best way to know if your gravity has stabilized.Just took a gravity reading - 1010 I think (first time using it). The kit said the OG (if used with the recommended fermentables) would be 1038, so I’m guessing this is a good sign! I’ll take another reading tomorrow and Monday and see what happens.
I sterilised my hydrometer and put it straight in the FV as to not waste any beer, but will wait until Monday / Tuesday before taking another reading then.To minimize oxygen exposure and wasted beer samples, it would be better to wait 2-3 days before pulling the next sample. One day apart isn't really the best way to know if your gravity has stabilized.
It is not difficult, but it does require more process. I recently bought a all in one and really like it so far. I also have two different 2&3 vessel systems. One is a pot, a cooler and a burner. If there is a local home brew shop (LHBS) near you or can find a brew club either will likely help you get started. My LHBS was who first showed me what is required for all grain, and that is where I started. I've never really brewed a extract batch, but I have put extract into my all grain beers. Anyway, good luck and BREW ON!!!Is it difficult to make good brews from full grain?
There are different kinds of extract kits. The "Duncan Hines" type of beer kits ("just add water") make far worse beer than Duncan's kits make brownies.I like the idea of home brewing because of the thought of creating my own brews, and I just don't get that feeling from the extract kits. Its really seems that it is just making a brew from a box.
First, how much beer do you drink, how quickly do you go through it, and how many neighbors, friends, and relatives do you think you’ll be supplying?I am looking to get into home brewing and looking at a deluxe all in one kit. I have a few questions though. Is bottling really very frustrating or tedious? Should I consider just investing in a keg kit? How quickly do people grow out of the extract kits and go full grain? Should I start off with the extract kits just to dip my toes in the water, or can I just go full grain from the start? I like the idea of home brewing because of the thought of creating my own brews, and I just don't get that feeling from the extract kits. Its really seems that it is just making a brew from a box. Is it difficult to make good brews from full grain?
I think most extract brewers these days use a partial boil. By adding only 1/4 - 1/2 of the extract at the beginning, and the rest at the end of the boil, you're still boiling at a good SG. And it makes it practical to chill in an ice water bath without a wort chiller if desired. This makes the equipment much cheaper, with very little if any down side.you need a brew pot big enough to hold more than your entire batch. You can’t boil 5 gallons in a 5 gallon pot.
Imma have to disagree a little bit; time increases to bring 2 times water to heat, boil, and definitely to chill. 10 times even more so. Darned thermodynamics laws.let's not forget that to brew a 10-20-1000 gallon batch, time doesn't increase just size, and weight.....