Water Test Report - Linden,NJ

[dragonbreath11]

Any thoughts on what type of beer is best suited for this water without any mineral additions?

 

[bobbrews]

I grew up in Linden. Represent.

You could brew a lot of things. The Magnesium and Chloride levels look good. Don't add more sodium. But Calcium and Sulfate need work (for bitter APA/IPAs especially). For this reason, I would pick up some gypsum (calcium sulfate). Without any additions, hmmm?? A lower abv stout with 40-60 IBUs.

 

[afr0byte]

I grew up in Linden. Represent.

You could brew a lot of things. The Magnesium and Chloride levels look good. Don't add more sodium. But Calcium and Sulfate need work (for bitter APA/IPAs especially). For this reason, I would pick up some gypsum (calcium sulfate). Without any additions, hmmm?? A lower abv stout with 40-60 IBUs.

I'm curious..why would it have to be a lower abv?

 

[bobbrews]

Calcium is a little low for the yeast at 35 ppm and a new brewer who asks this question will not usually make a big liquid yeast starter typical for an imperial stout.

 

[afr0byte]

Calcium is a little low for the yeast at 35 ppm and a new brewer who asks this question will not usually make a big liquid yeast starter typical for an imperial stout.

I can agree the calcium is a little low (though obviously that's easy to remedy). However, it seems odd to specify a low abv beer because they MIGHT not use a starter. The starter has nothing to do with the water profile.

 

[bobbrews]

Again, the OP seems to be a very new brewer so I took that into consideration as well. All of the new brewers I know that have asked similar questions typically try not to tackle a monster Imperial stout with a big ol' yeast starter of WLP001. Instead, they will most likely use one packet of dry yeast. The water report seems to be decent enough to blend hoppy and malty. And usually higher IBUs hold up better to higher gravities. I wanted to make that distinction.

Are you done yet?

 

[afr0byte]

Again, the OP seems to be a very new brewer so I took that into consideration as well. All of the new brewers I know that have asked similar questions typically try not to tackle a monster Imperial stout with a big ol' yeast starter of WLP001. Instead, they will most likely use one packet of dry yeast. The water report seems to be decent enough to blend hoppy and malty. And usually higher IBUs hold up better to higher gravities. I wanted to make that distinction.

Are you done yet?

I guess we have different opinions of the OP. Most brewers I know that ask about water already know about proper pitching rates. It's unnecessarily limiting the OP, if they take your advice.

 

[bobbrews]

He wants to know what he can brew without any amendments. I wouldn't say that's actually taking charge on correcting the water profile or getting to know more about the beer brewing process, would you? This is more, "What can I simply brew without fussing too much over details I don't understand?" Nothing wrong with that, just saying that's how I interpret the situation.

It is more to limiting the OP by not commenting with any constructive advice of your own, as you have done here.

Stop making everything a debate. Tired of it. Move on and stalk someone else.

 

[afr0byte]

He wants to know what he can brew without any amendments. I wouldn't say that's actually taking charge on correcting the water profile, would you? This is more, "What can I simply brew without fussing too much over details I don't understand?" Nothing wrong with that, just saying that's how I interpret the situation.

It is more to limiting the OP by not commenting with any constructive advice of your own, as you have done here.

Stop making everything a debate. Tired of it. Move on and stalk someone else.

The point is that he/she could brew an imperial stout with that water. It might not be the optimal profile, but neither would 35mg/L calcium for a low abv dry stout.

I'm not limiting anything. By prompting you, and adding my own opinions, I've actually provided the OP with more information than he/she might otherwise have had.

Also, I won't stop making everything a debate, since I felt correction/further information was warranted here.

 

[bobbrews]

You've provided nothing except a boost to your own ego, as you always do. And providing a simple recommendation does not mean I'm limiting the OP to that one particular style.

It's a fairly easy beginner style. Easier/cheaper/quicker than a quality impy stout.

I'm sick of the condescending tone. If you want to contribute, then contribute and stop nit-picking.

Moving on.

 

[afr0byte]

You've provided nothing except a boost to your own ego, as you always do. And providing a simple recommendation does not mean I'm limiting the OP to that one particular style.

Moving on.

Call it what you want. You provide misleading information, I try to clear up potential confusion.

 

[bobbrews]

You like to call people out condescendingly, and then when they call you out in the same manner, you get defensive and go on attack mode. It's obvious... especially because you never even replied to the OP. This is not the first time afro. Like I said, if you want to contribute, then contribute.

 

[jessup]

damn nj folk

 

[afr0byte]

You like to call people out condescendingly, and then when they call you out in the same manner, you get defensive and go on attack mode. It's obvious... especially because you never even replied to the OP. This is not the first time afro. Like I said, if you want to contribute, then contribute.

I have contributed. I called you on the low ABV stout comment. I didn't suggest a beer type to the OP because I agree that a stout is probably a good style choice. However, the OP most certainly could brew an imperial stout. The calcium might not be optimal, but then again it's not optimal for a low ABV stout either. The pH, however, would probably still be in the ball park, which is a big part of water modifications.

 

[bobbrews]

I called you on the low ABV stout comment.

So poor calcium levels along with one packet of dry yeast is just as good for a 4-6% abv stout as it is for a 10-12% abv imp. stout?? ...For a beginner to brew without making water adjustments, adding another packet, or making a yeast starter?? Hmmm, okay. I know not to pay attention to your recipes now.

 

[afr0byte]

So poor calcium levels along with one packet of dry yeast is just as good for a 4-6% abv stout as it is for a 10-12% abv imp. stout?? ...For a beginner to brew without making water adjustments, adding another packet, or making a yeast starter?? Hmmm, okay. I know not to pay attention to your recipes now.

First, that's not a poor calcium level. it's lower than optimal, but it's not poor. However, it'd be lower than is recommended for almost any beer, not just an imperial stout. Also, I never said that the OP should only use one packet for an imperial stout. Plus, we haven't determined how experienced the OP is, for anything other than brewing water chemistry. You're assuming things.

 

[bobbrews]

I'm not assuming. I provided a recommendation to brew a hoppy low abv stout with dry yeast. It's called a recommendation for a reason. We'll finalize the details and what needs to be altered when we see a posted recipe.

Are you saying that low calcium levels have no effect on yeast health, and thus the ability to adequately produce alcohol... and that yeast health/size doesn't matter just a bit more if you're trying to achieve 12% vs. 6% abv with your typical dry yeast or liquid yeast sans the starter? Tell that to the brewer of Dogfish 120 Minute.

 

[afr0byte]

I'm not assuming. I provided a recommendation to brew a hoppy low abv stout with dry yeast. It's called a recommendation for a reason. We'll finalize the details and what needs to be altered when we see a posted recipe.

Are you saying that low calcium levels have no effect on yeast health, and thus the ability to adequately produce alcohol... and that yeast health/size doesn't matter just a bit more if you're trying to achieve 12% vs. 6% abv with your typical dry yeast or liquid yeast sans the starter? Tell that to the brewer of Dogfish 120 Minute.

Yes, you are assuming, unless you looked up the OP's comments (in other threads). He could make a large starter for all of his/her beers, for all we know.

I'm not saying that low calcium levels have no effect on yeast health. However, 35 is lower than optimal, but it's not much lower than the recommended 40-50 mg/L calcium. Also, you're assuming that he/she isn't going to use a starter. The OP hasn't said anything about yeast. Obviously the amount of yeast matters. At this level of calcium I'd argue that the amount and health (pre-pitching health) of the yeast matter more than the amount of calcium.

 

[Bobby_M]

I grew up in Linden. Represent.

You could brew a lot of things. The Magnesium and Chloride levels look good. Don't add more sodium. But Calcium and Sulfate need work (for bitter APA/IPAs especially). For this reason, I would pick up some gypsum (calcium sulfate). Without any additions, hmmm?? A lower abv stout with 40-60 IBUs.

I lived in Linden for 8 years. Class of 94. What was this thread about again?

 

[Willum]

I lived in Linden for 8 years. Class of 94. What was this thread about again?

Rahway class of 94. Small internets.

 

[ajdelange]

Calcium is fine for even big beers. The malt contains quite a lot. Not saying the runoff might not be brighter and the oxalate precipitation better with some extra but certainly there is enough for the yeast. At least I've never had a problem brewing any beer with calcium levels that low. The big benefit of adding calcium chloride to many waters is really in the chloride which rounds, smooths, and sweetens the beer but OP doesn't need that because his chloride level is already respectable.

As to adding gypsum - he should try some beers with and without that. Sulfate tends to render the perception of hops as harsh and dry. Some people like that some people don't. You can add gypsum to finished beer to get a rough idea of how the taste would change if you added it to the mash water. You can do the same with chloride. The idea that sulfate and chloride need to be in some particular ratio for a particular style of beer is bunk. Each has its own effect and they are not antipodal. Learn what each does and be guided by your (or your guests') palate(s).

[Edit] Missed the -S in the sulfate column. SO4-S 18 means the sulfate content is quite high at 54 which is too high for the delicate continental styles especially where hopped with noble hops but certainly not a problem for British ales which have sulfate at 300 or above - if you like those.

OP has a great deal of flexibility in what he can brew with this water. It's low enough in mineral content (and alkalinity) that even the [delicate beers can be brewed with it] and, of course, it can be supplemented (use one of the spreadsheets for calculations) for anything in which a noticeable mineral profile is desired.

OP might want to consider cutting 1:2 or 1:3 with RO water to get the sulfate down. See the Primer in the Stickies. This should definitely be tried on at least a couple of beers as many (bit not all) discover they do not really like the effects of sulfate once they taste beers brewed with less of it.

Rumson, '62