Water Question

[Thesomeguy]

Alright so I have done some extensive searching on the subject as well as read many many threads on it but can not wrap my head around how to adjust my water. I have been brewing for about 6 years but travel a lot for work so I can only brew roughly 5-10 batches a year. I did the Ward Labs test as seen below, and my beer has not come out bad but I always think I can do better. I tend to do quite a few Blondes and IPAs and use this Tap water for it, but feel my blondes are not as good as they could be. Any help with this would be appreciated (at least so I can understand what I am doing or if I even need to worry about it). The water Report is for Victorville, California.

Results For :
Sample ID :
Location :
SEAN SAMPSON
pH 8.3
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 277
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.46
Cations / Anions, me/L 4.4 / 4.5
ppm
Sodium, Na 67
Potassium, K 3
Calcium, Ca 23
Magnesium, Mg 3
Total Hardness, CaCO3 70
Nitrate, NO3-N 0.5 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 47
Chloride, Cl 4
Carbonate, CO3 < 1.0
Bicarbonate, HCO3 84
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 70
Total Phosphorus, P < 0.01
Total Iron, Fe < 0.01
"<" - Not Detected / Below Detection Limit


Once again I appreciate the guidance.

 

[ajdelange]

How are you controlling mash pH?

 

[Thesomeguy]

What do you mean? I had some of that Stabilizer but dont use it as I havent seen much of a difference with or without it.. I monitor using a PH meter. Usually have no problems hitting 5.2

 

[Yooper]

A mash pH (at room temperature) of 5.3-5.5 is perfect. I like lighter colored beers at 5.3-5.4. You will need some acid or acid malt for lighter colored beers.

What looks like an issue to me is the sulfate. My understanding is that when Ward Lab gives sulfate as SO4-S that we should multiply it by three in the common brewing spreadsheets.

That gives you nearly 150 ppm of sulfate, if that is the actual report. That is pretty good for IPAs and pale ales, but could be overmineralized for lighter colored beers.

I'd reduce that for any blondes ales or any malty beers, by using RO water or something with very low mineralization, at about 50% or so. Then, I'd add some calcium chloride (your chloride is very low) to provide some "roundness" or "fullness" to the beer.

 

[Thesomeguy]

A mash pH (at room temperature) of 5.3-5.5 is perfect. I like lighter colored beers at 5.3-5.4. You will need some acid or acid malt for lighter colored beers.

What looks like an issue to me is the sulfate. My understanding is that when Ward Lab gives sulfate as SO4-S that we should multiply it by three in the common brewing spreadsheets.

That gives you nearly 150 ppm of sulfate, if that is the actual report. That is pretty good for IPAs and pale ales, but could be overmineralized for lighter colored beers.

I'd reduce that for any blondes ales or any malty beers, by using RO water or something with very low mineralization, at about 50% or so. Then, I'd add some calcium chloride (your chloride is very low) to provide some "roundness" or "fullness" to the beer.

Thank you for the Response.. I believe I have some Calcium Chrloride at home (currently deployed) from when I thought about doing this last year. What would you recommend as far as a water set up for a Blonde. There area ton of differing opinions through out the various brewing sites.

Cutting in RO is not an issue and I had considered this while I was doing my own research, but am unsure what my target is. Like I said I am ok with the beer that I produce and it rarely lasts long but with my lighter options I personally feel that something is off.

 

[ajdelange]

What do you mean? I had some of that Stabilizer but dont use it as I havent seen much of a difference with or without it..

No surprise there.

I monitor using a PH meter. Usually have no problems hitting 5.2

The question was as to whether you are using acids, sauermalz or just dark grains. 5.2 is a bit low but dipping down into that range isn't as detrimental as going too high (over 5.6). Ne sure you check your pH meter after each cal. Some of the inexpensive ones drift pretty fast.

The sulfate level in this water is appreciable and will be either too high for your tastes, too low or just about right. Try experimenting with additional midgeons of gypsum in a glass of the beer. If adding some makes it taste worse to you then try brewing with some of the sulfate diluted away. If you find it improves the taste then add some gypsum in your brewing water.

Your chloride is quite low. Supplementing that will enhance body, sweetness and fullness. Again, experiment with some calcium chloride (you already have quite a bit of sodium) in the glass.