waffle's brewery build

[waffle418]

I also found a site that custom makes multilevel switches... but I bet they are $$$$$$ expensive $$$$$

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=339

Here she is

 

[jeffmeh]

to bad im going BIAB because this would be perfect.

I guess the question is whether you could mount it low enough that it is not much higher than the element, and would not snag the bag.

That said, I would think it would be quite difficult (though hardly impossible) to inadvertently dry fire with a single-vessel e-BIAB. After the boil, if you forget to turn the element off, it would be rather obvious. Perhaps if you do hop stands at lower temperatures after the boil, and use a chilling method other than an immersion chiller, it would be easier to forget, but not that easy.

 

[LandoLincoln]

I also noticed that auber put a gasket in for a weldless install. Anyone know off hand if this is food safe or should I just assume, I'll be replacing this.

Mine shipped with a clear silicone gasket. Pretty sure it's food safe.

 

[waffle418]

My mess on my dining room table has started a migration to my family room. Brought the Panel in to start laying out switches and lights and the like. I have a buddy who vinyl wraps for a living and I believe we're going to wrap the box instead of painting. We have a whole day tomorrow of drinking and tailgating to discuss the idea... We first need to come up with a brewery name.
And so the decisions begin... I'm trying to leave room but I don't know why... and I went all Blue and Red... Blue for BCS, Red for Manual. Don't know why, just felt right

 

[waffle418]

I just realized I hadn't posted ANY pictures to this thread. Here's my panel, well subpanel, I had installed in my garage. Its a 100-amp so I could put a couple more outlets in the garage as well

 

[waffle418]

Drilled out the bottom for the power sources.

 

[waffle418]

Question for anyone that's used the BCS inside their control panel: How did you mount it? I'm thinking about using some 2-sided tape and sticking it in the sidewall to be out of the way and in case I do go with a 2nd, separate box, it would be easy to remove. Just curious what others have done.

 

[phlipot89]

Use some industrial Velcro... easy to remove, but should stay in place nicely

 

[waffle418]

Use some industrial Velcro... easy to remove, but should stay in place nicely

Brilliant! I am getting some right now Just waiting on the last few pieces to decide how I'm going to lay out the box and then on to drilling the rest of the holes! I've laid out the inside probably a dozen times while trying to decide how I'm going to go with it. Picked up a couple DIN mounts for the contactors so that they can be mounted much easier and need less holes

 

[LandoLincoln]

Brilliant! I am getting some right now Just waiting on the last few pieces to decide how I'm going to lay out the box and then on to drilling the rest of the holes! I've laid out the inside probably a dozen times while trying to decide how I'm going to go with it. Picked up a couple DIN mounts for the contactors so that they can be mounted much easier and need less holes

Since you're using DIN rails, I suggest getting some "DIN-Rail Mount High-Amp Distribution Blocks" from McMaster-Carr. I bought some 6367T22's from them. I used them for taking the big 6-gauge wires which were the power inputs for my panel and splitting those into four 10-gauge wires as power outputs, which ran to other sections of the control panel.

They take up a lot less space than the old-fashioned terminal blocks.

 

[waffle418]

Since you're using DIN rails, I suggest getting some "DIN-Rail Mount High-Amp Distribution Blocks" from McMaster-Carr. I bought some 6367T22's from them. I used them for taking the big 6-gauge wires which were the power inputs for my panel and splitting those into four 10-gauge wires as power outputs, which ran to other sections of the control panel.

They take up a lot less space than the old-fashioned terminal blocks.

Nice I'm starting to seriously consider ditching the distribution blocks and going with the modular setup similar to what BadNews did. This is quickly moving to a full-on DIN set up. Hopefully I can get it all before the weekend and have it mounted up. I'm getting antsy to brew another Pliny Clone thanks to the tailgate this weekend that demolished the last one!

 

[Buxsquad]

The Cloney the Piner was much appreciated at the tailgate! Looking forward to your next batch :rockin:

 

[waffle418]

The Cloney the Piner was much appreciated at the tailgate! Looking forward to your next batch :rockin:

Thanks! Looking forward to another tailgate to bring it to! Heard the Milk Stout is awesome

 

[ThreeDogsNE]

I also found a site that custom makes multilevel switches... but I bet they are $$$$$$ expensive $$$$$

Rather than one switch with both functions, why not one each for high water and low water levels. A little stainless steel pipe, and these can be at whatever height you want. http://www.sourcingmap.com/tank-water-level-sensor-stainless-steel-float-switch-p-139200.html

 

[waffle418]

Rather than one switch with both functions, why not one each for high water and low water levels. A little stainless steel pipe, and these can be at whatever height you want. http://www.sourcingmap.com/tank-water-level-sensor-stainless-steel-float-switch-p-139200.html

That'd be a great idea for what philipot is looking for. It looks just like the floats that are the ones being sold by Auber but at a discounted price. Wire one as a NC connection and the other as a NO connection and then the SSR only fires when the right combo's there. Sounds like money in the bank if thats what you're looking for.

 

[P-J]

Keep in mind that the float switch in the posted link is not the correct one for mounting through the side of a kettle. A curve neck is requied like this one: Curve Water Level Sensor Liquid Steel Float Switch Pool

Hope this helps.

 

[waffle418]

Keep in mind that the float switch in the posted link is not the correct one for mounting through the side of a kettle. A curve neck is requied like this one: Curve Water Level Sensor Liquid Steel Float Switch Pool

Hope this helps.

That looks like the one from Auber I ordered. Thanks for the heads up PJ.

 

[waffle418]

Here's what the control panel will look like. I decided to measure it out and sketch it up before drilling holes because I'm not buying a second one Also, I wanted to give the ability to expand to another set of switches is why the outside bottom lines exist. There is a method to my madness!!! Oh I also worked in tenths of inches because thats the rule I have

 

[waffle418]

Had to move in the power light, keyed switch and emergency stop button in to 2" from the edge as it would hit the door seal and I wasnt cutting through that. So, here is the lay out and the dry fit after the holes were drilled.

 

[beluedog]

thats gonna be tight with your pump outlet

 

[waffle418]

thats gonna be tight with your pump outlet

I hope not... I didn't think about that until you just mentioned it :/ When I get home, I'll look, if it is, well I'll just pray for dumb luck!!

 

[waffle418]

There's about a 1/2" gap between the two so I think I'm good, but I definitely appreciate the concern because I thought I had planned for everything. Going to hit the panel with sandpaper to knock all the texture off the box for the vinyl to adhere better. The layout is coming very shortly and I'm getting super excited. It feels like a long, long work in progress.

 

[waffle418]

I ran into an issue. I can't seem to pull the locking mechanism off the enclosure. It looks like its almost glued down. Does anyone have any suggestions? If not, I'm considering cutting it off and ordering one off Granger to replace it with.

 

[LandoLincoln]

I ran into an issue. I can't seem to pull the locking mechanism off the enclosure. It looks like its almost glued down. Does anyone have any suggestions? If not, I'm considering cutting it off and ordering one off Granger to replace it with.

Give us a close-up pic of the inside door.

 

[waffle418]

Give us a close-up pic of the inside door.

I figured it out :/ Sometimes you just HAVE to use the right tools!. 1-1/4" socket and out it came!

But here was the piece I was talking about.

 

[waffle418]

Yes I did get too aggressive in spots with a sander, but I've never been the best with patience and this project has been a true test of that.

 

[MrSaLTy]

The knurled ring on the back of the lock thing unscrews and the whole thing comes off. You can see it in your 2nd picture.

 

[waffle418]

The knurled ring on the back of the lock thing unscrews and the whole thing comes off. You can see it in your 2nd picture.

Yeah I found that out when I finally took a step back to think about it. When I have power tools, I tend to be very 1 tracked Its off and the box has gotten primer!! That means tonight/tomorrow can start the wiring... I think.

 

[waffle418]

Wiring did not happen last night. Forgot I cut off the ground post to install one of the lights... oh well. Got the ground post back installed using the kal method. I keep getting excited and then having to stop to do little things. Plan, plan, plan if you're doing a build like this. There are so many oh I forgot moments its ridiculous. I think the wiring is going to be the easy part now!

 

[waffle418]

My BCS & DIN users.... has anyone checked out the DIN Adapter? Is it convienent, does it work, is there an advantage over just sticking the BCS against the wall?

Here's what I'm talking about.