Using 6 Gallon Primary & Secondary

[exf5003]

Very new to home brewing but loving it so far...
My question: I have the NB White House Honey Ale extract kit that i fermented in 6 gallon primary. I racked over 8 days later into another 6 gallon secondary, been sitting there for past 5 days. I wasn't sure about the 6 gallon carboy since I do not have a 5 gal carboy, so I called NB. The guy told me that I should bottle my beer ASAP, that I shouldn't use a 6 gallon as a secondary. Also to give it an extra week in bottles to condition it.
First, should I listen to what he says and bottle tonight?
And if so, is my beer going to come out bad or not tasting right? Anything else I can do to salvage it?

 

[JustLooking]

The concern is too much head space in the 6 gallon carboy. When using a secondary for reasons other than secondary fermentation (clearing, dry hopping, wood aging&#8230 the carboy should be filled to the neck to reduce oxygen exposure. But even under those conditions, you shouldn't move your beer until it has finished fermenting. You can use a hydrometer to confirm that it is done. Same thing with bottling. Don’t bottle unless you’re sure it’s done fermenting or you may get bottle bombs. Oxidation takes a while before it is a noticeable flavor problem, so you probably won’t notice it if you’re not long term aging the beer.

 

[flars]

A six gallon carboy for a secondary has to much headspace. The headspace may not fill with off gassing CO2 leaving the beer in contact with oxygen. The beer could oxidize.
A secondary is not necessary unless you are dry hopping or have other additions like oak cubes. Some even dry hop in the primary. The beer will clear just as well in the primary given enough time.
Removing beer from the yeast cake can be detrimental. The yeast cleans up natural off flavors of fermentation after the active fermentation is completed.

 

[m1batt1]

Like mentioned the extra head space and oxygen exposure is an issue with the larger carboy. But that being said make sure you're at a stable gravity before you bottle. The potential oxidation that could have occurred is less of a concern than bottling before its finished and making gushers or bottle bombs.

 

[exf5003]

I take it i wont hit the target SG called for in the instructions, so what SG is stable enough so I do not get any bottle bombs?
Also, if I attempt to dry hop (future brew) in the primary, do you just wait for the last week and dry hop or right away?
Thanks again for all the replies!

 

[m1batt1]

I take it i wont hit the target SG called for in the instructions, so what SG is stable enough so I do not get any bottle bombs?
Also, if I attempt to dry hop (future brew) in the primary, do you just wait for the last week and dry hop or right away?
Thanks again for all the replies!

You might and you might not. If fermentation wasn't done or nearly done then transferring it like you did could have stalled the fermentation. But after 8 days I would guess you were done or close to done. If its within a few points of where its supposed to be and stays there then I would say you're fine to bottle. If it's much higher than it should be then that could lead to bottle bombs. If its near the FG that is listed in the instructions and the reading doesn't go down over 3-4 days you're safe to bottle.

For dry hopping I would wait until fermentation is complete or very nearly complete. For instance my last batch I let sit for two weeks and then dry hopped for one week. All in primary.

To my understanding if you dry hop during the active portion of fermentation the CO2 production and off gassing that occurs tends to drive off some of the aroma you would want from a dry hop addition.