Upgrading to a pump

[Hastings]

Hey guys,

I did my first all grain brew last week and it was awesome! I was doing it with a 2 keg system, a mash tun and a HL/kettle. I was batch sparging as well. I did this without a pump and i realized like i really do need a pump to make it a lot easier then gravity.

So of course i look to the best site, homebrewtalk to search what i should get.

I found that the March 809-HS pump is a very popular and its not too bad. I found one for a little over $100.

1) What do you guys think of this pump

I want to get the quick connections. I was looking at the McMaster connections and also the snaplocks, which is nice because people say they are a lot cheaper and work great.

2) I have 1/2' fittings, I was wondering which one should i pick?
Also can I just put the fittings on the end of the hose and the kegs or do I have to put the connection on the pump as well?


Thank you,
Bob

 

[JVD_X]

Hi,

There are lots of threads on this subject. However, the march pump is "the standard" for homebrewtalk pumps. I have a variety of pumps but the march is the one most folks have.

If I were starting out I would go with cam-lock quick disconnects or tri clover. There are several vendors on this site that sell these.

Austin homebrew is always a good choice but I would go to brewers hardware for tri clamps.

 

[samc]

Properly configured and used, the March pumps work very well. If you don't get everything just right they can be a bear to keep primed and working. After messing with all of the variables I'm pretty satisfied with mine.

It's best to have all your connections as quick connects for ease of cleaning and removal. Unless of course you hard plumb and do a clean in place process. I'm using the Colder polysulfone qd's and they work ok but would not be my first choice. Honestly I would have spent the money upfront a bought SS quick connects like MoreBeer sells.

 

[Surly]

Really though, look at the priming issue. I have had my March for over a year and have had mixed results with priming.

It has worked ok, and then I have a problem. Then it works ok, then I have a problem.

Finally, I have laid the gauntlet down. I will brew no more until I have a bleeder valve in place.

 

[JVD_X]

I will brew no more until I have a bleeder valve in place.

Install a 'T' and a second hose at the output of the pump. Include some way of closing off the second connection. Bleed the pump by opening the valve and then close when it's bled.

 

[shoebag22]

Think I will need a bleeder also... Brewed a week ago with no problems with the pump... brewed this weekend and had a problem at every turn. Anyone have some pics of their bleeder setup? I've seen some ideas floating, but everyone's seems to be different.

Also, Is it best to mount the pump so that the inlet and outlet are vertical? i.e. the inlet side is on the bottom and the outlet side is on top, forcing all the air up and out?

 

[passedpawn]

McMaster Carr part numbers. I use these (I bought my tubing from Brewmaster's Warehouse, tho). They are fantastic. There are models with larger orifices, and also stainless ones, but I haven't had any remorse after using these with at least 30 batches of beer.

 

[ScubaSteve]

You should go with the camlocks...for the same price as the McMaster brass QD's, you get all stainless parts, and they have a much better flow. The ID of the 1/2" brass QD's with barbs is smaller; somewhere around 3/8". If you choose the camlocks with the MPT option, you can just put the hose over the threads....this will give you way less restriction than the barbed fittings.

 

[Mojoe4]

I have a love hate relationship with my March pump. As others have said it can be a pain to get it primed right. Some brew days I have no problems at all, others days I want to throw it in the street.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Yeah, March pumps can be a real PITA. Once you prime it, DON'T disconnect your hoses from the pump itself! You'll have to start from square one....which takes time and makes a mess....

 

[shoebag22]

just redesigned my setup and I think I figured this whole march pump thing out. I mounted it so the inlet is on the bottom and the outlet is on top... gravity forces any air trapped in the head up and out... I have a 2 tier system and shuffle my tubing around a bunch so i have to kill the prime many times. Here is what worked for me tonight:

Follow Bobby's instructions on getting initial prime... this worked most of the time, but a couple times I gradually lost the prime, so i just left all valves open and turned off the pump. Gravity forced the liquid in the tubing above the pump backward, which forced any trapped air out of the head. once I saw the air bubble move, I switched the pump back on and I had a prime... I will report back after a couple more brew days.

 

[lehr]

My bleeder set up.

 

[Brew-boy]

I have a similar setup as lehr and the bleeder valve is a must. I very rarely loose my prime and I switch hoses all the time. The Morebeer stainless quick disconnects are Great and has never has let me down yet a very handy one hand click on click off.

 

[Waunabeer]

My bleeder set up.

lehr, do you have a wider shot at that setup? I would like to see where your hoses are coming and going from a little better. Also, is there a reason you used a street elbow out the bottom vs. a standard elbow? Thanks.

 

[Mojoe4]

My bleeder set up.

I like the mount you build for the pump. I need something like that, my pump gets splashed sometimes and it worries me.

 

[lehr]

lehr, do you have a wider shot at that setup? I would like to see where your hoses are coming and going from a little better. Also, is there a reason you used a street elbow out the bottom vs. a standard elbow? Thanks.

Hope this helps but I have a RIMS set up since this picture and no reason for the street elbow it must be something I had left over.

 

[Waunabeer]

Sweet Jesus; that setup has more bling than 50 cents mouth. Awesome; did you make that setup yourself?

 

[lehr]

One more thing I have a little giant pump I will be replacing the march with.

Pat

 

[lehr]

Sweet Jesus; that setup has more bling than 50 cents mouth. Awesome; did you make that setup yourself?

Yes I built it myself here is the rims up grade pic.

 

[tasq]

You should go with the camlocks...for the same price as the McMaster brass QD's, you get all stainless parts, and they have a much better flow. The ID of the 1/2" brass QD's with barbs is smaller; somewhere around 3/8". If you choose the camlocks with the MPT option, you can just put the hose over the threads....this will give you way less restriction than the barbed fittings.

+1 Love mine!

 

[slakwhere]

You should go with the camlocks...for the same price as the McMaster brass QD's, you get all stainless parts, and they have a much better flow. The ID of the 1/2" brass QD's with barbs is smaller; somewhere around 3/8". If you choose the camlocks with the MPT option, you can just put the hose over the threads....this will give you way less restriction than the barbed fittings.

so are you saying use this for the hose side?

and then this for the kettle/pump sides?

or would you do the keg/pump side as the female and do all the hoses as males ?

 

[tasq]

so are you saying use this for the hose side?

and then this for the kettle/pump sides?

or would you do the keg/pump side as the female and do all the hoses as males ?

I have my females on the hose itself. The equipment connections are male.

 

[slakwhere]

thanks, tasq!

 

[tasq]

thanks, tasq!

You're very welcome!

 

[passedpawn]

I dunno. I look at those camlocks and I don't see any advantage (except they are SS and blingy). They don't look like a "quick" disconnect. The normal QD's can be done one-handedly. Also, although the camlocks have a larger ID, I have the flow choked down with a ball valve for almost everything I do with a pump, so reduced impedance wouldn't change my brewday.

Anyway, that's my view. I'm sure someone here will tell me how I'm wrong

 

[Scut_Monkey]

I dunno. I look at those camlocks and I don't see any advantage (except they are SS and blingy). They don't look like a "quick" disconnect. The normal QD's can be done one-handedly. Also, although the camlocks have a larger ID, I have the flow choked down with a ball valve for almost everything I do with a pump, so reduced impedance wouldn't change my brewday.

Anyway, that's my view. I'm sure someone here will tell me how I'm wrong

You're wrong!