Unboxing Colorado Brewing Systems new Single Vessel System

[cyclonebeer]

Anyone have a link or want to explain how to calibrate the PID? I have the 20 gallon and the PID doesn't have any branding on it. On their downloads page it's a one page PDF that might as well be Greek to me. [emoji16]

CBS used to use Auber 2362. They then changed to a Chinese knock off that was essentially the same as the 2362. Go to the Auber site and see if your PID looks like their 2362. If so, that is probably what you have. Download the manual from Auber.

 

[Horseflesh]

On the 20 gallon system, the recirc arm goes down to about half way. I had to extend it much lower to get it under the liquid level in a 7-8 gallon boil.

 

[30Bones]

CBS used to use Auber 2362. They then changed to a Chinese knock off that was essentially the same as the 2362. Go to the Auber site and see if your PID looks like their 2362. If so, that is probably what you have. Download the manual from Auber.

Thanks, I will compare tonight. I assume you just did the auto tune and let it do it's thing?

 

[cyclonebeer]

Thanks, I will compare tonight. I assume you just did the auto tune and let it do it's thing?

I did the auto tune but didn't like the overshoots and undershoots I was seeing. Ended up setting custom parameters that work pretty good for me. Tim provided a lot of help to get things dialed in. My system is over a year old now and was probably one of the last Single Vessel systems CBS built before they discontinued the line and switched over to the Home version. I have a 5500w element, so my parameters may not work for you (assuming you have a 4500w element). Good luck. Let me know if I can help.

 

[30Bones]

I did the auto tune but didn't like the overshoots and undershoots I was seeing. Ended up setting custom parameters that work pretty good for me. Tim provided a lot of help to get things dialed in. My system is over a year old now and was probably one of the last Single Vessel systems CBS built before they discontinued the line and switched over to the Home version. I have a 5500w element, so my parameters may not work for you (assuming you have a 4500w element). Good luck. Let me know if I can help.

Tim sent me a link to their forum for adjusting the temp control. I too am using a 5500W element and mine was off nearly -6 degrees. I am planning to run the autotune tonight as a friend said it can take quite a while to do what it needs to do.

https://forum.cobrewingsystems.com/...bration-8336092?pid=1294169781#post1294169781

For those using the PID control panel and need to calibrate the temperature, follow the instructions below:

Press set and enter in pass code 0089 and set again

Scroll until PSb is highlighted in red and press set. Enter the number of degrees that the RTD probe is reading high or low.

Press set again and scroll until END is in red. Press set to exit.​

 

[cyclonebeer]

Tim sent me a link to their forum for adjusting the temp control. I too am using a 5500W element and mine was off nearly -6 degrees. I am planning to run the autotune tonight as a friend said it can take quite a while to do what it needs to do.

https://forum.cobrewingsystems.com/...bration-8336092?pid=1294169781#post1294169781

For those using the PID control panel and need to calibrate the temperature, follow the instructions below:

Press set and enter in pass code 0089 and set again

Scroll until PSb is highlighted in red and press set. Enter the number of degrees that the RTD probe is reading high or low.

Press set again and scroll until END is in red. Press set to exit.​

Tim's instructions are correct if you need to offset your probe reading. For example, if the probe was in 32 degree ice water and the PID said that the temperature was 42 degrees, you would offset the probe by 10 degrees. This is not the same as running auto tune. Tim's instructions are the same as shown in the Auber 2362 manual, so I'm sure that is your PID. Auto tune will take about 45 minutes to run and check. I ran auto tune at a target temp of 152. After auto tune completed, I set the target temp to 165 as if I was doing a mash out. Watch to see how your temp ramps up from 152 to 165. If your system reacts ok, you're good to go. I saw overshoots, undershoots, and poor convergence on the target temp. That is why I spend literally days trying to dial in acceptable parameters for P, I, D, and SouF. Hope you don't have to go through that. If you don't like the results you get from auto tune, let me know and I'll give you my operational parameters. They might work better for you and save you a ton of time. Good luck.

 

[30Bones]

Yes I am aware that was for temp offset. Still have yet to tune it. Hoping that is all I need to do. I really appreciate your offer on the parameters. Thanks

 

[molson]

Tim's instructions are correct if you need to offset your probe reading. For example, if the probe was in 32 degree ice water and the PID said that the temperature was 42 degrees, you would offset the probe by 10 degrees. This is not the same as running auto tune. Tim's instructions are the same as shown in the Auber 2362 manual, so I'm sure that is your PID. Auto tune will take about 45 minutes to run and check. I ran auto tune at a target temp of 152. After auto tune completed, I set the target temp to 165 as if I was doing a mash out. Watch to see how your temp ramps up from 152 to 165. If your system reacts ok, you're good to go. I saw overshoots, undershoots, and poor convergence on the target temp. That is why I spend literally days trying to dial in acceptable parameters for P, I, D, and SouF. Hope you don't have to go through that. If you don't like the results you get from auto tune, let me know and I'll give you my operational parameters. They might work better for you and save you a ton of time. Good luck.

Could you send those to me? I've tried autotune and am still seeing overshots of 3+ degrees. I'm a little bit annoyed it's not performing better. Thanks!

 

[cyclonebeer]

Could you send those to me? I've tried autotune and am still seeing overshots of 3+ degrees. I'm a little bit annoyed it's not performing better. Thanks!

I'm using P = 0.2, I = 350, d = 20, SouF = 0.7. I have a 20 gal kettle and 5500w element. This seems to work ok for me.

 

[molson]

I'm using P = 0.2, I = 350, d = 20, SouF = 0.7. I have a 20 gal kettle and 5500w element. This seems to work ok for me.

I put these settings in and put in 10 gallons of water set the target to 150 and it overshot to 152. Is that normal or should I adjust more?

 

[cyclonebeer]

I put these settings in and put in 10 gallons of water set the target to 150 and it overshot to 152. Is that normal or should I adjust more?

I'd probably just live with it. You want your PID to maintain a steady temp during the mash. If it overshoots a couple of degrees as you heat up to strike temp, but converges nicely and holds temp during the mash, I'd say that it's doing its job. Brew a batch and see how it performs during the mash. I bet it will do just fine.

 

[cyclonebeer]

Keep in mind that a PID is a precision piece of electronica. We can calibrate it for one set of thermal conditions, but once we change those conditions, the calibration becomes compromised. Thermal conditions change when we change our grain bill, water volume, ambient air temp, etc. You will even see the PID go to work when you stir the mash (and I stir a lot. Old habits die hard). If the truth be told, a PID is probably overkill for what we need in homebrew temp control, but they're not very expensive, and an electric system with PID control is leaps and bounds beyond covering up an orange cooler with a sleeping bag. I'm really happy with the CBS system and am more than comfortable with the way it performs. Brew often and it will become your friend.

 

[jready]

Glad to see on here a thread of people who have these systems. I spent the last year looking at different builds and trying to decide if I wanted to build one from scratch or buy something "off the rack". I was directed to their website from a homebrew club member who was helping do some research. Nine months later I finally decided and ordered the 10G version.



The next few weeks are gonna be hard to get through. I think I'm going to be a little insane with putting that together once it gets here. I do have a question for folks who have electric systems about the 30A gfci on the panel. I have 240v in my garage but I'm not sure if my panel has the gfci. would something like this work instead of changing out my breaker?

Hey all quick question for those more electrically inclined. I am moving and might need a temporary solution so I can brew at the new house. Probably just renting for 6 months to a year so I'd hate to have an electrician install something. I saw this post from wildseed and checked into these inline cords. If I bought one like this:

http://www.gfcistore.com/uploads/3/4/5/5/34550588/s650533067525406938_p36_i1_w374.jpeg

Could I put a three pronged plug on one side and a four pronged on the other or would I need to change my CBS one to three pronged? (Or should I say have an electrician change it)

 

[jready]

When I say three pronged I mean a dryer plug. The cord is 30A 240v

 

[Horseflesh]

If your CBS power cable has 4 prongs, you cannot use an adapter to run it off a 3-prong outlet. A 4 prong plug includes neutral, which is used to provide 120V in addition to the 240V. 120V powers the computer, 240V powers the element.

 

[jready]

If your CBS power cable has 4 prongs, you cannot use an adapter to run it off a 3-prong outlet. A 4 prong plug includes neutral, which is used to provide 120V in addition to the 240V. 120V powers the computer, 240V powers the element.

Thank you!

 

[molson]

I was looking at going that route with my system and I got this quote from http://www.gfcistore.com/index.html

The 14-30R (Receptacle) is $48 The 14-30P (Plug) is $83. PGFI-2301N 30AMP 240VOLT Single Phase Inline GFCI Portable 2' 10/3 Cord W/flying leads NEMA 4X, 6P Manual Reset 156.82

I decided to just have a gfci breaker installed in my panel since it turned out to be cheaper than the cord.

 

[30Bones]

OK since this is the thread I read for all my tips/tricks, here is my dilemma...I am not enjoying my system and need convincing to stick with what I paid a good amount of money on and not invest more money to change directions. I enjoyed brewing more on my gas fired 3V keggle setup, maybe I am losing my passion of the hobby?? I have the 20gallon nano from ~3 years ago.

• Main gripe has been reticulation issues during the mash (pump flow too fast) and burning up elements. At least 4 so far. Completely my fault, but babysitting the system has led me to going back to a cooler MT my last couple brew sessions.
• I run a motorized JSP maltmill and I believe the crush is at 0.032", never use rice hulls (our HBS is awful), rarely use wheat or oats. I do not think I am pulverizing the grain creating more issues. I don't think with this system you need to destroy grain to get efficiency.
• That is my next issue, temp control during the mash. With the probe next to the element the grain bed is no where near the same, so you need to set the PID to say 157 if you want a mash temp in the center of your mash to be 152.
• Basket is a the solid side, mesh bottom, not 100% mesh. I have mixed feelings on this design. Solid sides mean the wort travels through the entire grain bed which in theory should be better for temp and efficiency. I think this takes a long time for the wort to make it's way back to the bottom so the pump has to be throttled back quite a bit. Mesh sides would allow wort to move faster, preventing element starving, but may not be as efficient. Just a theory.
  
• PID temp setting never matches my thermopen just using water. I have done autotune, set +/- swings to try to account for things and that bugs the heck out of me. This is my first ever PID experience.
• The hoist and structure make it difficult to have a nice exhaust hood. My kettle is on a table roughly 18" off the floor on a table and my ceilings are only 8' tall. Placing the stand on the floor with a hood above it would solve this issue, but I do not want my kettle sitting on the floor. It may be my only real solution, just hate having a kettle on the floor.
• I do a mix of 5 and 10 gallon batches and find doing a 10 gallon batch the issues seem even more apparent. Also the limit of ~1.055 for a 10 gallon is a bit disappointing when I want to do a nice split batch of something a with a bit more pep than 5%.
• With that huge 1" pickup tube are you folks angling it to not pick up as much trub and hop? The absence of a whirpool (aside form using the mash recirc setup with some silicone tubing) bugs me also. I have bagged my hops since getting this system to keep as much gunk out of the fermenter as possible. I think that hurts hop utilization. I chill with a CFC chiller so a nice whilpool setup would be great to get debris centered, let it settle a bit before pumping through the chiller.

I am contemplating tapping into my gas line and running a separate BK off a burner (several friends have went this route while keeping an electric mash), cooler for a MT and my $$$ CBS as a HLT. Seems silly to consider this while I am typing it out.

This weekend maybe I will clean the system, try calibrating the PID better and maybe removing it from the table and setting it on the floor to utilize the hoist and keep my vent hood. I need to find a happy place with my brewery again.

 

[Horseflesh]

I also have an older CBS 20 gal system with the solid-side basket. I share some of your concerns but overall have been happy with the rig.

As to pumping the only way I have found success it so just run the pump slower than I want to! I start pumping with the handle maybe 15% of the way to full open, and open it up to maybe 40% open by the time 20 minutes or so have passed. Whether I do an occasional stir or not doesn't seem to change my efficiency. My guess is that I am crush-limited there, and even the slow pumping is adequate turnover for conversion with the crush I have. (I mill at the LHBS for now.)

Pump speed is related to the other issue I share, the speed of temperature changes. I recently started monitoring the temperature in the center of the grain bed. I found that it would stabilize to within 1-2 degrees of the set point, which I thought was just fine... but changing temperature took about 10 minutes. That means a 10 minute step isn't really doing what I hope.

After we bought our systems, CBS started making our baskets with a more coarse bottom mesh, which should allow for somewhat faster pump speeds, which should make for faster step changes. CBS will modify your basket for free, but you do have to pop for shipping there and back. I plan to do this as soon as I find a big enough box. Hopefully that cuts some time off the step changes, which is my biggest issue with the system today.

My efficiency could be better too, BHE is 68-70%, but I am sure crush plays a big role in that. I'll get my own mill sooner or later and worry about it then.

The system is not perfect, but I am still pretty happy. If you can't get happy, chuck it and get something you love. Life's too short!

 

[jready]

I also have an older CBS 20 gal system with the solid-side basket. I share some of your concerns but overall have been happy with the rig.

As to pumping the only way I have found success it so just run the pump slower than I want to! I start pumping with the handle maybe 15% of the way to full open, and open it up to maybe 40% open by the time 20 minutes or so have passed. Whether I do an occasional stir or not doesn't seem to change my efficiency. My guess is that I am crush-limited there, and even the slow pumping is adequate turnover for conversion with the crush I have. (I mill at the LHBS for now.)

Pump speed is related to the other issue I share, the speed of temperature changes. I recently started monitoring the temperature in the center of the grain bed. I found that it would stabilize to within 1-2 degrees of the set point, which I thought was just fine... but changing temperature took about 10 minutes. That means a 10 minute step isn't really doing what I hope.

After we bought our systems, CBS started making our baskets with a more coarse bottom mesh, which should allow for somewhat faster pump speeds, which should make for faster step changes. CBS will modify your basket for free, but you do have to pop for shipping there and back. I plan to do this as soon as I find a big enough box. Hopefully that cuts some time off the step changes, which is my biggest issue with the system today.

My efficiency could be better too, BHE is 68-70%, but I am sure crush plays a big role in that. I'll get my own mill sooner or later and worry about it then.

The system is not perfect, but I am still pretty happy. If you can't get happy, chuck it and get something you love. Life's too short!

I had this system for quite awhile. Made great beer but I gave it up for exactly the reasons you stated. I have the 3 vessel Spike system now and I love it. Held on to the CBS for a little while thinking I might go back finally sold it.

I don’t think my beer is better now just less babysitting. More cleaning but less babysitting

 

[akthor]

dude I feel your pain I so wanted to have a BIAB system work but I think in bigger volumes it just does not work well and I have gone back to a mash tun and I am done with the trying to make 1bbl BIAB work.

OK since this is the thread I read for all my tips/tricks, here is my dilemma...I am not enjoying my system and need convincing to stick with what I paid a good amount of money on and not invest more money to change directions. I enjoyed brewing more on my gas fired 3V keggle setup, maybe I am losing my passion of the hobby?? I have the 20gallon nano from ~3 years ago.

• Main gripe has been reticulation issues during the mash (pump flow too fast) and burning up elements. At least 4 so far. Completely my fault, but babysitting the system has led me to going back to a cooler MT my last couple brew sessions.
• I run a motorized JSP maltmill and I believe the crush is at 0.032", never use rice hulls (our HBS is awful), rarely use wheat or oats. I do not think I am pulverizing the grain creating more issues. I don't think with this system you need to destroy grain to get efficiency.
• That is my next issue, temp control during the mash. With the probe next to the element the grain bed is no where near the same, so you need to set the PID to say 157 if you want a mash temp in the center of your mash to be 152.
• Basket is a the solid side, mesh bottom, not 100% mesh. I have mixed feelings on this design. Solid sides mean the wort travels through the entire grain bed which in theory should be better for temp and efficiency. I think this takes a long time for the wort to make it's way back to the bottom so the pump has to be throttled back quite a bit. Mesh sides would allow wort to move faster, preventing element starving, but may not be as efficient. Just a theory.
  
• PID temp setting never matches my thermopen just using water. I have done autotune, set +/- swings to try to account for things and that bugs the heck out of me. This is my first ever PID experience.
• The hoist and structure make it difficult to have a nice exhaust hood. My kettle is on a table roughly 18" off the floor on a table and my ceilings are only 8' tall. Placing the stand on the floor with a hood above it would solve this issue, but I do not want my kettle sitting on the floor. It may be my only real solution, just hate having a kettle on the floor.
• I do a mix of 5 and 10 gallon batches and find doing a 10 gallon batch the issues seem even more apparent. Also the limit of ~1.055 for a 10 gallon is a bit disappointing when I want to do a nice split batch of something a with a bit more pep than 5%.
• With that huge 1" pickup tube are you folks angling it to not pick up as much trub and hop? The absence of a whirpool (aside form using the mash recirc setup with some silicone tubing) bugs me also. I have bagged my hops since getting this system to keep as much gunk out of the fermenter as possible. I think that hurts hop utilization. I chill with a CFC chiller so a nice whilpool setup would be great to get debris centered, let it settle a bit before pumping through the chiller.

I am contemplating tapping into my gas line and running a separate BK off a burner (several friends have went this route while keeping an electric mash), cooler for a MT and my $$$ CBS as a HLT. Seems silly to consider this while I am typing it out.

This weekend maybe I will clean the system, try calibrating the PID better and maybe removing it from the table and setting it on the floor to utilize the hoist and keep my vent hood. I need to find a happy place with my brewery again.

 

[30Bones]

Thanks for the feedback. Glad I’m not alone here. Unsure the basket mesh would be a solution but I’ll email Tim to get details. Also I don’t think I love triclamps. I had cam locks before this and they are just simpler.

I’m also considering moving the brewery to my huge garage where I have 240V and a floor drain. Just need to move my GFFI panel out there. Several reasons for this, main one being space. I have very little storage in my small house and the brewery in my basement swallows up a lot of that space.

 

[jabba11]

I ve had my system a good three years. Ive run probably 50 batches through it Id say. I have the ss recirc arm, I run the pump mostly wide open both recirculating under the basket and through the basket (hardsided) at the same time. Grain bed temp can be stabilized faster with a stir or two. I use rice hulls and lots of em in a wheat beer 8oz or more in a ten gallon batch. I hit my numbers regularly and its 80 to 82%. I do a 1 gallon fly sparge at the end of the mash with water I pulled from total water volume. The only problem I have had was scorching (especially with wheat) and a pump failed. Scorching I mostly solved by recirculating under the basket but grind is the key here. Adjusting it too low (and I feel .032 is too low) and it can be a problem. I have mine set at credit card thickness which as I recall is about .039. I see guys leving the CBS and certainly is a chocice but I just don't have these problems. Maybe I have forced myself to spend so much time with it that I just have it dialed in for me and how I do things. Going from coolers to it was a big change and took a lot of fidlding etc to dial in. As for exhaust hood I had one on mine built on a TV arm but I just moved and actually put an exhaust fan through my wall which works perfectly. I am in a bigger room now too and so I only have to really turn it on when the boil is happening.

 

[cyclonebeer]

Nice to see this thread getting some traction again.

I honestly think the reason so many have expressed heartburn is because of the solid side basket. I got my system before that was even an option and got a 400 micron all mesh basket. Never had a re-circulation issue. Never use rice hulls. Never had a scorched element. Never bothered to check middle of the mash temp versus PID, but I might next time just for shiggles.
One thing I do is to turn the element off while draining the mash. Before I turn the element back on after draining, I give the wort a good stir to make sure no fines have built up on the element. Rather not cook a bunch of crap on the element if I can avoid it. I also re-circulate while ramping up to boil just to make sure nothing else "rests" on the element and gets cooked. I turn the pump off once I get to boil.
I use a MM3 mill set to .034" and get about 80% mash efficiency. That's good enough for me.
I don't use the SS manifold. I just return wort to the basket via silicone tubing.
I'm still a big fan of the system. It's super simple. Easy to clean. No babysitting required for the system on brewday. I'd never go back to a 3V rig.
I sometimes think that Tim's attempts to improve the system only led to a new set of problems. There is a certain beauty in simplicity.

 

[30Bones]

I ve had my system a good three years. Ive run probably 50 batches through it Id say. I have the ss recirc arm, I run the pump mostly wide open both recirculating under the basket and through the basket (hardsided) at the same time. Grain bed temp can be stabilized faster with a stir or two. I use rice hulls and lots of em in a wheat beer 8oz or more in a ten gallon batch. I hit my numbers regularly and its 80 to 82%. I do a 1 gallon fly sparge at the end of the mash with water I pulled from total water volume. The only problem I have had was scorching (especially with wheat) and a pump failed. Scorching I mostly solved by recirculating under the basket but grind is the key here. Adjusting it too low (and I feel .032 is too low) and it can be a problem. I have mine set at credit card thickness which as I recall is about .039. I see guys leving the CBS and certainly is a chocice but I just don't have these problems. Maybe I have forced myself to spend so much time with it that I just have it dialed in for me and how I do things. Going from coolers to it was a big change and took a lot of fidlding etc to dial in. As for exhaust hood I had one on mine built on a TV arm but I just moved and actually put an exhaust fan through my wall which works perfectly. I am in a bigger room now too and so I only have to really turn it on when the boil is happening.

How are you recirculating above and below? Added fitting? (I do wish my kettle had a whirlpool down low for several reasons.

I have a 3 way valve on the output of my pump I could always "rig" up a hose to feed in-between the kettle and basket during the mash to find some resolution. I found running the pump wide open was the issue as it would pump the wort out too quickly below the basket. Maybe I need to invest in a large bag of rice hulls for every brew session. Thanks for the feedback.

Nice to see this thread getting some traction again.

I honestly think the reason so many have expressed heartburn is because of the solid side basket. I got my system before that was even an option and got a 400 micron all mesh basket. Never had a re-circulation issue. Never use rice hulls. Never had a scorched element. Never bothered to check middle of the mash temp versus PID, but I might next time just for shiggles.
One thing I do is to turn the element off while draining the mash. Before I turn the element back on after draining, I give the wort a good stir to make sure no fines have built up on the element. Rather not cook a bunch of crap on the element if I can avoid it. I also re-circulate while ramping up to boil just to make sure nothing else "rests" on the element and gets cooked. I turn the pump off once I get to boil.
I use a MM3 mill set to .034" and get about 80% mash efficiency. That's good enough for me.
I don't use the SS manifold. I just return wort to the basket via silicone tubing.
I'm still a big fan of the system. It's super simple. Easy to clean. No babysitting required for the system on brewday. I'd never go back to a 3V rig.
I sometimes think that Tim's attempts to improve the system only led to a new set of problems. There is a certain beauty in simplicity.

It is simple and fast when it works.

 

[jabba11]

How are you recirculating above and below? Added fitting? (I do wish my kettle had a whirlpool down low for several reasons.

I have a 3 way valve on the output of my pump I could always "rig" up a hose to feed in-between the kettle and basket during the mash to find some resolution. I found running the pump wide open was the issue as it would pump the wort out too quickly below the basket. Maybe I need to invest in a large bag of rice hulls for every brew session. Thanks for the feedback.


It is simple and fast when it works.

..

Yes I am recirculation with a whirlpool arm attached where the water volume indicator had been. You can see lots of pics of my setup by going to my facebook page.. www.ceegeebrewing.com

 

[30Bones]

..

Yes I am recirculation with a whirlpool arm attached where the water volume indicator had been. You can see lots of pics of my setup by going to my facebook page.. www.ceegeebrewing.com

Thanks. I’m following your page. Maybe it’ll get answered there but how do you gauge volume now? The basket is in the way to do etched on the kettle....wait not really for heating up everything before the mash. Hmmmm

 

[cyclonebeer]

Thanks. I’m following your page. Maybe it’ll get answered there but how do you gauge volume now? The basket is in the way to do etched on the kettle....wait not really for heating up everything before the mash. Hmmmm

Calibrate your kettle. Measure the liquid depth with a metal yardstick. Convert the depth to a volume. No need to measure volume when the basket is in the kettle.

You can even get techie and create a calibration curve. Determine the equation of the line of best fit. Throw it all in a spreadsheet and apply a correction factor for the coefficient of thermal expansion. A simple calibration chart is most likely sufficient for our degree of accuracy.

 

[30Bones]

Even easier, use the sight glass that came with it, remove the 1/2" NPT plug and install a threaded male tri clamp and recirculate. Kettle - Sight glass - valve. I need to source said TC but in theory it sounds like it might work. I have a 3 way valve off my pump outlet so I have the ability to pump to the bottom and top all while throttling down the lower port if needed.

Terrible picture I know

 

[cyclonebeer]

Sight glasses can work well. I'm not crazy about mine. It has a range of 7 - 16 gallons. Not much help if I have to measure out 6 gallons of RO. They're one more thing to clean, they can break, they cloud, and mine even plugged with hops once. I question the accuracy of my calibration on the glass, and since hot liquids expand, its only accurate (if at all) at 70 deg. I never use it and find the yardstick to be just as convenient and more accurate. lots of people love them, I'm just not one of them.

 

[30Bones]

I can understand that. I could easily etch or use the yardstick trick and making that port now whirlpool duty with a readily available fitting

 

[jabba11]

Thanks. I’m following your page. Maybe it’ll get answered there but how do you gauge volume now? The basket is in the way to do etched on the kettle....wait not really for heating up everything before the mash. Hmmmm

I have a "stick" with tic marks on it that I use to gauge volume.

 

[30Bones]

I changed up my system. Added a 2nd pump, 20 gallon COBS kettle is now a fancy HLT, RTIC cooler MT and a Stout 21gallon domed bottom electric boil kettle with tangential input and volume marks. Super stoked to be back in a 3V system. I will likely go to a HERMS setup down the road and a better MT.

 

[cyclonebeer]

You'll have to post back on this thread and let us know how it's going for you.... sometime when you're not cleaning your stuff (ha). But seriously, I'm curious what was your beef with single vessel brewing that made you want to go back to 3V?