Turning your Fermonster into a complete closed transfer system for cheap!

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Does your measurements take into account the door? I have a 4.4cf Frigidaire mini fridge and it fits the fermonster but only after a little shaving of the vertical slit from the door to give it a little more.

Good point... I probably have an extra 0.5 inches as the base of the door. Its pretty uneven up the rest of the door since its already been shredded to hell. I might need to just find a good return policy and see if it fits.
 
DONE
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I tested the setup with 12 PSI and while 5 PSI was holding well, at 12 psi there's a low hissing noise out of the bottom of the lid. It'll probably be ok for transfers, but has anyone else had this issue? I'm wondering if I should order a new lid.

Probably pointing out the obvious but I've had issues with the fermonster lid o ring coming off causing the hissing noise.
 
After 120 batches in glass carboys, I can no longer bear to watch the oxygen exposure as I rack into my kegs. I need to join the closed transfer team! My problem is that my fridge is slightly too small to fit the Fermonster. Its just under 11 inches deep, and barely fits the standard 6.5 gal glass carboy. A couple of question for you all...
  • Would a Big Mouth Bubbler work similarly with this set up?
  • Anyone have other workarounds for a fridge that won't fit the Fermonster?
Edit: I figured out that the Big Mouth Bubbler lid does not screw on like the Fermonster, so it would pop off under pressure. I suppose you could tape it down, but I'm not sure I want to deal with that every time.

I like the @CascadesBrewer brewer set up, it looks like a lot of people do that with the BMB. Maybe that method in combination with the in line filter and depth charge dry hop filter (to not block the spigot) would work...
I know its not with this thread, but i'd probably just ferment it a corney. :mug:
 
I know its not with this thread, but i'd probably just ferment it a corney. :mug:

I'd actually be willing to try this once with a tried and true recipe to see how the quality compares, not sure if I'd need a spunding though... Long term I'd really prefer to use a larger carboy to get a full 5 gallons into the keg.
 
Has anyone figured out a good method to adding gelatin while using this process, assuming you're brewing something like a west coast IPA or lager?
 
Has anyone figured out a good method to adding gelatin while using this process, assuming you're brewing something like a west coast IPA or lager?
Have you ever used biofine? I’ll add that to the keg after it’s purged while running co2 and then close transfer onto it.. I thought this was better than gelatin personally. That’s how I’ve been doing my lagers and they clear great
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Have you ever used biofine? I’ll add that to the keg after it’s purged while running co2 and then close transfer onto it.. I thought this was better than gelatin personally. That’s how I’ve been doing my lagers and they clear great View attachment 745622View attachment 745624

I'll have to try that out, it certainly seems a lot easier than going through the whole gelatin process!
 
Does your measurements take into account the door? I have a 4.4cf Frigidaire mini fridge and it fits the fermonster but only after a little shaving of the vertical slit from the door to give it a little more.

I owe you a BIG THANKS for asking this question, I just brought home a fermonster and it fits perfectly in my fridge. Time to get some pressure transfers going!
 
So far so good with my first fermentation in the 'Monster, it's just hard to get the lid unscrewed sometimes. Has anyone else had this issue? I think some wort may have made it sticky. Any tips for getting it open or for gym exercises for the lid opening muscles? ;)
 
Any tips for getting it open or for gym exercises for the lid opening muscles?

If you are emptying out the fermenter, I find that running hot water over the lid will usually loosen it up enough to spin off. I do have one of the lid wrenches though and it is handy (I suspect you could use a strap wrench as well).
 
So far so good with my first fermentation in the 'Monster, it's just hard to get the lid unscrewed sometimes. Has anyone else had this issue? I think some wort may have made it sticky. Any tips for getting it open or for gym exercises for the lid opening muscles? ;)
I have the same problem. I have found that pushing down on the top of the lid a couple times and then using a strap wrench is the only way I can get it off. Sometimes, even need a second person to hold Fermonster while I use the strap wrench.
 
After 120 batches in glass carboys, I can no longer bear to watch the oxygen exposure as I rack into my kegs. I need to join the closed transfer team! My problem is that my fridge is slightly too small to fit the Fermonster. Its just under 11 inches deep, and barely fits the standard 6.5 gal glass carboy. A couple of question for you all...
  • Would a Big Mouth Bubbler work similarly with this set up?
  • Anyone have other workarounds for a fridge that won't fit the Fermonster?
Edit: I figured out that the Big Mouth Bubbler lid does not screw on like the Fermonster, so it would pop off under pressure. I suppose you could tape it down, but I'm not sure I want to deal with that every time.

I like the @CascadesBrewer brewer set up, it looks like a lot of people do that with the BMB. Maybe that method in combination with the in line filter and depth charge dry hop filter (to not block the spigot) would work...

I did something similar with a vintage shop PET carboy with one of the orange carboy caps, two barbed carbonation caps (Amazon.com: FERRODAY Stainless Steel Carbonation Cap Counter Pressure Bottle Filling 5/16 Barb CO2 Coupling to Carbonate Soda Beer Water Stainless Steel PET Bottle Filling Carbonation Cap & O-ring + Flat Gasket: Home & Kitchen), and a floating diptube. I stuck the barbed caps in both openings of of the carboy caps with worm clamps, using the large opening to put the tube over the barb. I had to work the silicone diptube hose back up the hole, then put it over the barb, then put it all back in the opening on the cap. Worked like a charm, and it fit in my 4.4 ferm fridge. I connected blowoff with a disconnect to the cap without the diptube, and be careful since this won't hold hardly any pressure.
 

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Have you ever used biofine? I’ll add that to the keg after it’s purged while running co2 and then close transfer onto it.. I thought this was better than gelatin personally. That’s how I’ve been doing my lagers and they clear great View attachment 745622View attachment 745624
Biofone Clear is the best clearing agent I've used. I buy it in bulk and make my own 1oz bottles. It's amazing stuff. I had zero luck with gelatin.
 
For those who have done a few batches in fermonsters... what are you using to clean them? IIRC, the manufacturer seems to be afraid of almost anything but warm water.
 
For those who have done a few batches in fermonsters... what are you using to clean them? IIRC, the manufacturer seems to be afraid of almost anything but warm water.
I use pbw or oxyclean for a short soak. I’ll soak the orings and spigot for longer though. I still have the same fermonster I started with 6 years ago, so I can’t imagine it causing much issue
 
I’ll soak the orings and spigot for longer though.

Speaking of O-Rings, I imagine you've replaced them at some point. Have you found the perfect type/size that's compressible enough, but doesn't want to pop out of the metal to plastic interface?
 
For those who have done a few batches in fermonsters... what are you using to clean them? IIRC, the manufacturer seems to be afraid of almost anything but warm water.

I have generally used either a mild dish detergent or OxiClean. I read some info that cleaners like OxiClean and PBW can degrade PET plastics. I am not having much luck with Google because "PET" turns up lots of hits about "pet stains". I have mostly switched back to just using dish detergent on my Fermonsters.
 
Success post! Other than some issues getting the lid off, we're in business. Loving the setup so far, another beer going into it this weekend, just Biermuncher's Helles this time. Closed transfers for all!!

No issues with the transfer, but when the ball got low, the tube started sucking in the hops and then stopped half an inch from the bottom. I may try to equip my mesh filter over the dip tube again just for that bottom part.

Thanks for the hack,@Dgallo and all you other kind folks that helped me get this set up.

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I'm all set up with this Fermonster rig now, and testing it out with a Founder's Breakfast Stout clone. The Fermonster was such a perfect fit in my fridge, that putting just a little bit of pressure inside of it causes my fridge door to pop open lol. So maybe no dry hopping under the pressure (unless I rig up some bungee cords) but otherwise great so far.
 
Speaking of O-Rings, I imagine you've replaced them at some point. Have you found the perfect type/size that's compressible enough, but doesn't want to pop out of the metal to plastic interface?

@Dgallo
 
Ive used these that I got from Lowe's @VikeMan just to make sure you are referring to the O-rings attaching to the ball lock and lid right? The original orings that came with the fermzilla pressure kit (where I harvested the ball locks from) were kinda flat but still worked. These in the picture are thicker and Ive had no issues with them. a 3/8" ID make also work and make it a little snugger but since I haven't had any issues with the #10 o-rings, I just kept them.

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Glad I'm not the only one to have issues getting the lids off my fermonsters; I don't have a strap wrench, but for those times that sheer brute strength won't get the lid to budge, I find my open-ended oil filter wrench works as well.

My issue right now is that the fermentasaurus kit is backordered everywhere; so besides the floating dip tube, what are the other parts needed? I know the posts, but how do you attach them to the lid? Anyone cobbled this together from scratch? Sorry if it's been mentioned in a previous post but I skipped to the end. I have the drill bit needed already.
 
I use pbw or oxyclean for a short soak. I’ll soak the orings and spigot for longer though. I still have the same fermonster I started with 6 years ago, so I can’t imagine it causing much issue

But when you notice a fine layer of residue from the krausen that the soak wasn’t quite able to get rid of….what are using to clean? I’ve got a silicon scrubbie that isnt doing the trick. A toothbrush isn’t long enough to align to the curvature. I’ve been scared in scrubbing with anything for fear of scratching/infection.
 
But when you notice a fine layer of residue from the krausen that the soak wasn’t quite able to get rid of….what are using to clean? I’ve got a silicon scrubbie that isnt doing the trick. A toothbrush isn’t long enough to align to the curvature. I’ve been scared in scrubbing with anything for fear of scratching/infection.

I use a wet paper towel (wadded up in a ball). You can wipe/press as hard as you want, it's not scratching anything.

I just rinse out with warm water. Then soak bottom 1/4 of fermenter in warm water and scentless dish soap, then use a wad of paper towels to wipe around the rest with the soapy water. Then rinse out again. That usually gets rid of all visible residue, and I will do a soak in onestep before using again.
 
I use a wet paper towel (wadded up in a ball). You can wipe/press as hard as you want, it's not scratching anything.

I just rinse out with warm water. Then soak bottom 1/4 of fermenter in warm water and scentless dish soap, then use a wad of paper towels to wipe around the rest with the soapy water. Then rinse out again. That usually gets rid of all visible residue, and I will do a soak in onestep before using again.
Those magic erasers work really well too and are also non abrasive
 
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I’ve posted this in a few thread and I get quite a bit of messages regarding my process of doing this so I figured I would create a thread on the process. This is by far the cheapest closed fermenting/ transferring system.


So what you will be doing is modifying a fermonter’s solid lid and fitting it with both liquid and gas keg posts and a floating dip tube.Here is the easiest/cheapest way to go;

1) 7 Gallon Fermonster with spigots (makes hydro samples easy) with solid cap $33.99
FerMonster Carboy With Spigot - 7 gal. | MoreBeer

2) Fermontisourus pressure kit $29.99 - you’re buying this to take the parts, the liquid and gas posts and the floating dip tube to use for your solid lid.
Fermentasaurus Pressure Kit | MoreBeer
Optional pressure kit for the Fermentasaurus Concial Fermenter allows you to ferment under pressure, carbonate, and serve all in one vessel!
www.morebeer.com
www.morebeer.com

3) 7/16” or 1/2” drill bit so you can drill out the solid cap for the posts. Make sure you measure so that have them far enough a part so both ball lock fittings can go on at the same time but close enough when you maintain the stability of the lid. $2.
drillsandcutters.com

7/16" HSS Black Oxide Jobber Length Drill Bit, Qualtech
7/16" HSS Black Oxide Jobber Length Drill Bit, Qualtech. Find this item and other cutting tools on DrillsandCutters.com.
drillsandcutters.com
drillsandcutters.com

4) then you just needs some hose, clamps, and balllock fittings for your transfer lines.

all together you’re looking at just below $70 for a fermenter with closed transfer and pressure dryhoping capabilities. It’s also light weight and incredibly easy and quick to clean


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Benefits of doing this verses fermenting in the keg;
1) You will yield a full 5 gallons of trub free beer from each of your recipes helping you become more consistent
2) You now can use all your kegs for serving purposes.
3)You can see fermentation take place which for me is almost as good as watching a fire lol
i happen to own a 8 gallon fermonster. i didnt think they are rated nor designed to hold pressure . i'm wondering how the beer can be served without trub after fermenting in the same vessel. Im very interested to know more about how you went about doing this.
 
i'm wondering how the beer can be served without trub after fermenting in the same vessel. Im very interested to know more about how you went about doing this.

I don't think @Dgallo is serving from the fermenter, unless I missed something (long thread). The idea is to use (low) pressure to close-transfer the beer to a keg. As to how he went about building the fermenter, that's pretty well documented (as well as other peoples' variations) in the thread.
 
I don't think @Dgallo is serving from the fermenter, unless I missed something (long thread). The idea is to use (low) pressure to close-transfer the beer to a keg. As to how he went about building the fermenter, that's pretty well documented (as well as other peoples' variations) in the thread.
Yes don’t serve from this mod. There is someone in this thread that does, but I don’t recall who.

just like @VikeMan said, I use low pressure to cold crash, dryhop, and transfer. Never exceed 8 psi unless it’s by mistake
 
I've done this mod (though with the plastic posts because the metal version of the pressure kit was backordered everywhere), and so far I love it's impact on my beer. Soooo much less degrading of my beer over time. But lately, I've been having issues getting the last six inches or so of beer to transfer. Once it gets to that point, it will just stop (or go so slowly, I can't see any movement). I'm pretty sure at this point that it's not a clogging problem because I've tried everything I can think of to address that. I've switched to a filtered diptube, I've cold crashed for a week before transferring, I've filtered my wort before it goes into the fermenter to reduce trub and hop debris, I've blown CO2 into the diptube to clear out any possible obstructions during transfer. But still the same issue, and usually at the same level of beer (with about a gallon left).

It's getting really frustrating because I brew 2.5 gallon batches, and I'm not cool with losing nearly 1 gallon each time. I've started putting the excess into soda bottles with a carb cap, or into my 1.5 gallon keg when it's available (not often, it's usually full of kombucha). But I have to do that with an open transfer using a siphon, and those beers usually end up with oxidation. Plus it's just annoying to have to do two different transfer methods and have beer in all these different containers.

Has anyone else had this problem? Could it be that the amount of pressure required to move the beer once it gets that low is more than my fermenter can handle? Would I get better results if I switched to metal posts that had o-rings on the underside, instead of using the plastic posts that don't have any seal?

I'm thinking about drilling a spigot into my fermonster and transferring through that with some tubing hooked up to my beer post. That will at least let gravity do more of the work, in case the pressure is the problem. Any downsides to doing it that way? It's not as contained, but I can't think of another solution. Any advice y'all have would be great!
 
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