trub filter

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yes but have you compared it to clear wort going into the fermenter? anyway i didn't want it to be a discussion about why i want clear wort in my fermenter, I just do and I really wondered why there are not more DIY trub filters. Maybe people don't care enough about it, who can say?
You did say that from the beginning.... Hale and hearty!!
 
And theres always the trub trapper.TM.

Whirlpool builds a cone, you pickup from the side. Thats why i mentioned the little racking arm. Trapper i mentioned above is supposed to be physical barrier between the cone and your pickup. Seems bit overkill, but if you are that anti trub its worth a look.

And ph isn’t the only factor. Ion chemistry also plays a part. Bit hungover so not going to go further than that. Kid is driving me crazy.
 
I am not quite sure I understand what you mean? Are you referring to the gauge of the filter medium? Is this cross sectional area? I can tell from experience that a 10 micron filter is too narrow, it filters excellently but is easily blocked by protein and break. some are suggesting as high as 300/400 mircon which I would think lets through a fair amount of trub. I probably would like to go anything high than 50-60 micron. a compromise of sort must be reached though. I have orderd some stainless mesh for experimental purposes, 400 mesh which is 37 microns and 300 mesh which is like 50 microns, lets see how they work out, they might be too fine, i dunno.

Looking at that tube again, it appears that the diameter is about...what?.....5 cm? This is the cross section to which I'm referring. Once the top of that cylinder is clogged with stuff, it doesn't matter how much below it isn't clogged. That's why, generally, you want as large a cross section as you can get to filter, so there's more area to catch particles before they clog the filter and impede the flow.

That's why I don't think it's likely to work very well.
 
Looking at that tube again, it appears that the diameter is about...what?.....5 cm? This is the cross section to which I'm referring. Once the top of that cylinder is clogged with stuff, it doesn't matter how much below it isn't clogged. That's why, generally, you want as large a cross section as you can get to filter, so there's more area to catch particles before they clog the filter and impede the flow.

That's why I don't think it's likely to work very well.

its quite interesting I think the idea is, is that it filters from the bottom up, but i understand what you are saying. The chances of becoming clogged I think are pretty minimal, what is more likely to happen is that the filter medium becomes saturated and is no longer able to provide clear wort, this is what happens when I use a 10" cannister filter under gravity. Probably we would need a combination of things, whirlpool, cooling and mechanical filtration. If you have found a way please let me know.
 
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its quite interesting I think the idea is, is that it filters from the bottom up, but i understand what you are saying. The chances of becoming clogged I think are pretty minimal, what is more likely to happen is that the filter medium becomes saturated and is no longer able to provide clear wort, this is what happens when I use a 10" cannister filter under gravity. Probably we would need a combination of things, whirlpool, cooling and mechanical filtration. If you have found a way please let me know.

Me? Found a way? I'm depending on you to figure this out! :)
 
I brew 3.5 gal batches, 3 of that goes to the fermenter, .5 is trub. I figure an extra handful of grain and efficiency loss is worth it. I also use a 75/25 Polyclar/Whirlfloc hydrated dose at 5 min before the boil end which seems to help with compacting the trub better than Whirlfloc or Irish moss alone. After 30-60min cooling and settling my wort is crystal clear. Hop spider helps as well.
 
From experience those screen gaskets that @FunkedOut mention clog very quickly at the finer mesh... if you could possibly "stack" them (say 10 mesh between outlet and first connection, 20 mesh 2nd connection to valve, to 40 mesh valve to hose barb leading to fermenter) you might be able to get them to work. I have experimented with just a 40 mesh and 2 oz of hops, and it clogged within minutes.
 
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/hop-quesadilla.305073/

This works for me, the break material and small hop debris from a filter bed on the screen. I get super clean wort. You be amazed at what it stops, even with a hop spider

I also use the 500 micron hop spider also for hops. I typically put it for entire boil, regardless if I used fwh or boil hops. I take it out after 45 mins and clean it. This gets rid of boil hops(if any) and a ton of break material. I put it back in for flame out hops.
 
Here is the pic, this is with a spider also in use

IMG_20170210_125612078.jpg
 
Me? Found a way? I'm depending on you to figure this out! :)

lol fat chance of that, heck i am even considered loading up an aquarium cannister filter with perlite and seeing what happens. It has different trays that you can load with different gradients of filter medium. Its an insane idea. Anyway I will wait for stainless mesh and conduct some little experiment and see if it draws any conclusions.
 
Here is the pic, this is with a spider also in use

View attachment 560666

awesome, look at all that goo! what gauge is said filter mesh if you don't mind me asking. I have an idea that i could cover a stainless steel domed false bottom with such a mesh. I have a 30cm (12") one and i think a 22cm (9") one lying around somewhere.
 
Read the link, last post previous page, describes the build. It is not a dome, but a sandwich with a dip tube in it. The large surface area on top filters a lot, screen below tube gets the rest. Kal at the electric brewery has some more info on it also.

The trick with these is to slow the flow once the top is exposed as you do not have wort pushing down. I monitor the output hose and ensure the pump is not pulling to fast
 
Seems like a hella amount of hop debris escaped the spider.
I have a taco but always found it a pita to use, but my 400 micron spider doesn't pass anywhere near that amount of pellet material...

Cheers!
 
Seems like a hella amount of hop debris escaped the spider.
I have a taco but always found it a pita to use, but my 400 micron spider doesn't pass anywhere near that amount of pellet material...

Cheers!
I went with 500 micron spider for better flow. It may look like only hop, but a lot of break and trub. Just the hops color it. I like the two filter method works for me and I get amazing flow still.
 
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Read the link, last post previous page, describes the build. It is not a dome, but a sandwich with a dip tube in it. The large surface area on top filters a lot, screen below tube gets the rest. Kal at the electric brewery has some more info on it also.

The trick with these is to slow the flow once the top is exposed as you do not have wort pushing down. I monitor the output hose and ensure the pump is not pulling to fast

I did read it and saw no reference to actual microns. There is a reference of 0,015 but i cannot say what that means. i see later you state that its 500 microns so its all good.
 
the mesh size calls out the number of openings per inch in the screen.
the width/diameter of the wire that the screen is made from also affects the size of the opening.
that table looks like the mesh are made with varying gauge wires.
 
the mesh size calls out the number of openings per inch in the screen.
the width/diameter of the wire that the screen is made from also affects the size of the opening.
that table looks like the mesh are made with varying gauge wires.
Good point, so 28x28 mesh with .01 wire equals .0257 in opening, which is 652.78 micron, 300 micron for reference is .0118 in opening
 
Possibly after whirl pooling, chilling and settling, you could run the wort through a fine mesh biab bag to capture any other break?
 
I have a little strainer that fits right on my fermenter and I slowly pour thru it. I have used cheese cloth before and it works but you have to keep stopping and toss old and lay new cloth . Its tedious but it works .
 
I've been filtering everything that comes out of the brew pot since my first brew in 1994. Whatever gets captured in the net (hops, Irish Moss, hot/cold break, etc.) is not in my primary.

I figure the cleaner the wort going in the clearer the beer.

FWIW, this nylon net is from my original brew kit in 1994. The elastic is shot that why I use the spring clothes pins.



100_3537 (2).JPG
 
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No worries, its all good, there are other reasons like yeast collecting, the yeast you get from having clear wort in the fermenter is awesome, no need to wash it, just put it in a jar and repitch it. Also sometimes if you have trub it can coat the yeast and lead to less than stellar fermentation.

I agree with your assessment, but I still wash the yeast from my primaries to make it cleaner.

See my post above...
 
I've recently started screening the trub remains to extract the final wort. I use a huge funnel with a screen. I should take some pics this weekend.

For years I only let the kettle settle during the IC process...then I would open the spigot and pour thru a screened funnel into the fermenter until the screen clogged. Dump the first trub clog and then drain the rest of the kettle thru the same screened funnel until the very bottom trub gets pulled into the spigot once the kettle starts to bottom out. The rest gets tossed out, along with some good wort :(

The last couple batches I've taken all that trub that got tossed out before and poured it into a extra large mason jar and shake it up good. That gets poured into the same screened funnel but into another jar. As soon as the screen clogs I take the stuff below and recycle it back into the funnel and then let everything drip thru the trub caked screen into a clean jar. After it all drips thru I have a huge compacted solid trub cake on the screen and another good quart of pretty clean wort for the fermenter.

filtering that final trub takes few hours but I'm waiting for the ferm to hit pitching temps anyway. I simply reheat that quart on the stove real quick to re-sanitize it before adding it to the fermenter.
 
I've recently started screening the trub remains to extract the final wort. I use a huge funnel with a screen. I should take some pics this weekend.

For years I only let the kettle settle during the IC process...then I would open the spigot and pour thru a screened funnel into the fermenter until the screen clogged. Dump the first trub clog and then drain the rest of the kettle thru the same screened funnel until the very bottom trub gets pulled into the spigot once the kettle starts to bottom out. The rest gets tossed out, along with some good wort :(

The last couple batches I've taken all that trub that got tossed out before and poured it into a extra large mason jar and shake it up good. That gets poured into the same screened funnel but into another jar. As soon as the screen clogs I take the stuff below and recycle it back into the funnel and then let everything drip thru the trub caked screen into a clean jar. After it all drips thru I have a huge compacted solid trub cake on the screen and another good quart of pretty clean wort for the fermenter.

filtering that final trub takes few hours but I'm waiting for the ferm to hit pitching temps anyway. I simply reheat that quart on the stove real quick to re-sanitize it before adding it to the fermenter.
Sounds like a lot of time and at least some additional risk of infection for very little gain. Unless you brew really small batches, an extra quart isn't worth bothering with, IMHO.
 
I've recently started screening the trub remains to extract the final wort. I use a huge funnel with a screen. I should take some pics this weekend.

For years I only let the kettle settle during the IC process...then I would open the spigot and pour thru a screened funnel into the fermenter until the screen clogged. Dump the first trub clog and then drain the rest of the kettle thru the same screened funnel until the very bottom trub gets pulled into the spigot once the kettle starts to bottom out. The rest gets tossed out, along with some good wort :(

The last couple batches I've taken all that trub that got tossed out before and poured it into a extra large mason jar and shake it up good. That gets poured into the same screened funnel but into another jar. As soon as the screen clogs I take the stuff below and recycle it back into the funnel and then let everything drip thru the trub caked screen into a clean jar. After it all drips thru I have a huge compacted solid trub cake on the screen and another good quart of pretty clean wort for the fermenter.

filtering that final trub takes few hours but I'm waiting for the ferm to hit pitching temps anyway. I simply reheat that quart on the stove real quick to re-sanitize it before adding it to the fermenter.
I agree with Jay a lot of extra work for a little bit, I'd either scale the batch up to account for the extra quart. OR if you are determined not to let any go, grab a 5 gal paint strainer bag and line a bucket fermenter with it before you transfer the wort. Then just lift the bag and remove the trub and hops that made it through a whirlpool.
 
well after finding brulosophy's truby experiment...I'm tempted to try a batch with everything dumper into the fermenter...

each brew day is an adventure...as will my upcoming biab experience
 
I go to the other extreme - I overbuild my beers to leave about a gallon behind with all the trub so that I can send crystal clear wort to the fermenter. The extra pound or two of grain is a cheap tradeoff for trub-free wort.

To each his own.
 
well after finding brulosophy's truby experiment...I'm tempted to try a batch with everything dumper into the fermenter...

each brew day is an adventure...as will my upcoming biab experience
I've done it both ways on the same house recipe and didn't notice any difference. I now normally just drain my kettle until the siphon is broken. No whirlpool, and only settling is while I clean the IC (~5min). I'm not throwing everything in, but I don't go to any extra lengths to keep it out either. No problems of stalling as been mentioned, because they don't sit around long enough...
 
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