Trouble getting FG down to desired levels

[NWBrewer]

I've brewed 6 all grain batches without problem but my last 2 have had an SG of 1.050 and 1.053, that number seems under par for using 14lbs and 15lbs of grain. That's not my biggest concern but may possibly be relevant.

The biggest problem is after 2 weeks in a primary fermenter and 1 week in secondary my FGs have been 1.022 and 1.025 leaving me with pretty weak beers as far as ABV goes.

My full brewday process for both beers is

1. bring 1.25 quarts of water per lb of grain to strike temp, about 168
2. add 5.2 pH stabalizer
3. mashed at 150 and dropped over the hour long mash to 145
4. sparged with roughly 3 gallons of water, not pH adjusted
5. a light boil with hop additions for 60 minutes
6. aerated wort by shaking carboy
7. added yeast, wyeast 1332 Northwest Ale
8. fermented at 60 degrees for 2 weeks in primary before transferring to secondary

I'm shooting for an SG of 1.060-1.065 and an FG of 1.015 any suggestions on what I may be doing wrong would be great

 

[beerman0001]

Need to know the full grain bill.
If your strike water is at 168 your mash temp would be around 155.
Are you pre-heating your mash tun?
Is you thermometer calibrated?
How long do you think it was in the 150 range? 145 is too cold to be getting full conversion in 60 min.

 

[NWBrewer]

Grain bill
10 lbs 2-row organic malt
1.50 lbs carared malt
1 lb victory malt
1 lb carapils
0.50 lb french munich

I looked at the recipe card and my mash temp was 152 and dropped to 147, I did not preheat my mash tun and my thermometer is a 6 month old bremometer from Blichmann and I've never calibrated it. The mash was probably in the 150 range for 30 minutes at the most. my mash tun was a 48 qt rectangle style if that makes a difference.

 

[daryk77]

do you mill your own grain or does it come pre-milled? The crush can certainly effect your numbers.

 

[TopherM]

Try a 3 week primary and skip the secondary. You'll have a substancially higher yeast cell count to finish off those final gravity points.

 

[Brew-boy]

How much yeast did you add? Why fermented at 60F? No need for a secondary.

 

[NWBrewer]

I crush my grain using the mill at the homebrew store, no idea what it is set too.

I thought more than 2 weeks on the dead yeast would contribute off flavors?

I added a single smack pack, something like 100 billion active cells, the temp is because thats what my room temperature is without having a heater

 

[beerman0001]

On the next batch try to get your mash in at 152 and make sure it stays there for the full 60min. Too low a temp and you will not convert all the ferment-ables. Too high a temp and you will make it non ferment-able.

 

[michael.berta]

6. aerated wort by shaking carboy
7. added yeast, wyeast 1332 Northwest Ale

I agree with the prior comments about grain bill & mash temp.
Additionally these issues on the cold side this could also contribute to under attenuation. Yeast need oxygen to grow enough to ferment out properly. Shaking a carboy is probably not good enough...especially for a higher gravity beer. Consider purchasing something inexpensive like an aquarium pump to get more (sterial) O2 into your wort! Finally I didn't see any mention of a yeast starter. Per Mr Malty pitching just one pack is under pitching.

Not giving enough O2 to your already underpitched wort would likely contribute to under attenuation.

 

[michael.berta]

I thought more than 2 weeks on the dead yeast would contribute off flavors?

It's not dead yeast. It's dormant yeast. Nearly all professional brewers and many homebrewers re-pitch from prior batches. It's also an easy way to get your cell count up.

 

[TarheelBrew13]

A quick glance at Wyeasts spec for this yeast reveals at least one problem that is likely causing your issue. "Temperature Range: 65-75° F (18-24° C)"
http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=139
Your stalling your yeast.

If you want to ferment your beer that cold so that you get few ester productions, try ramping the temperature over the course of fermentation. Keeping it at 60 for the first day and then allowing the temperature to increase slowly will keep your yeast active and allow your beer to attenuate more fully. Also, try rousing the yeast by swirling the fermentor without a lot of splashing.

You just need to wake those guys up and let them get back to work.