tri-clover removable element - brewershardware element adapter

[kevink]

Man, if there was a weldless solution for the kettle ferrule, that would be perfect!

I can make you one, but it will probably cost 20 times more than having a ferrule welded into your kettle! Plus, you will be stuck with a weldless fitting in your kettle. Who wants that when you can have something nicer for less money?

 

[kevink]

Does anyone know if this will work with the wavy Camco element if you use the really short weld-on ferrule...

http://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-Ferrule-Short.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000BPG4LI

Kellzey,
Are you wondering if the Camco element will pass through that ferrule? If so, here's what I did when designed my keggle. I cut out a strip of thin cardboard and taped it together so it was the same diameter and length as the ferrule I was interested in. I then held it still and tried to pass the element through it as if I were installing the element in the keg. Not sure if that is what you are asking or not...

 

[kellzey]

Thanks, that was what i had figured I'd try

 

[kellzey]

OK... last question (I think)... looks like the 1 1/2" Ferrule has an ID of 1.36 inches.

Are you all welding/brazing the ferrule to the Keg/Kettle from the outside? If so, what size hole are you starting with? I see GreenLee has knockout punches in 1.25" and 1.375"

 

[kevink]

You definitely want to weld it to the outside. It would be nearly impossible to do from the inside. I have never silver soldered to stainless, so I can't comment on that method.

There are two ways to size the hole in the keg. You can make a perfect hole in the keg that exactly matches the OD of the ferrule and slip the ferrule into it or you can make the hole slightly smaller than the OD of the ferrule and contour the end of the ferrule to match the radius of the keg. The welding job should go the same either way as long as there are no gaps. I chose to make perfect holes for my sight glass and ball valve bungs and slip the couplers inside. It just seemed cleaner to me. Are you welding it in yourself?

 

[kellzey]

No... I am going to bring it to a welder that specializes in stainless.

I just want to prep it all. Give him the keg with the hole in it and the ferrule and let him do his thing!

Sounds like cutting it to the exact size of the ferrule shaft is the way to go.

Thx.

Karl

You definitely want to weld it to the outside. It would be nearly impossible to do from the inside. I have never silver soldered to stainless, so I can't comment on that method.

There are two ways to size the hole in the keg. You can make a perfect hole in the keg that exactly matches the OD of the ferrule and slip the ferrule into it or you can make the hole slightly smaller than the OD of the ferrule and contour the end of the ferrule to match the radius of the keg. The welding job should go the same either way as long as there are no gaps. I chose to make perfect holes for my sight glass and ball valve bungs and slip the couplers inside. It just seemed cleaner to me. Are you welding it in yourself?

 

[kevink]

50 percent of a good welding job is in the prep, so at a minimum I suggest talking to the welder to understand exactly what he needs. It can't hurt, especially if you are having him do more than one thing/fitting.

 

[SpaceCoastBrew]

Kellzey,
If your welder is specialized in stainless, mark the spot on the keg and stand back. They have all the right tools to do it quick and easily and there will be no risk of you opening the hole up bigger than the welder needs/wants it.

Typically, they'll pull the ferrule through the wall and weld from the inside first. They'll come back and weld from the outside. They'll clean up the inside and repassivate. It might cost a little more to have them do it all but it'll be done right and you'll be happy with the results.

Oh, and the Camco RIPP elements won't work with the adapter unless you're willing to try and bend them. Just get the straight camco elements they sell at HD.

 

[jcwalsh]

Kellzey,

I have a greenlee 1.5" punch. Send me a PM with your address if you want to borrow it.

Jeff

 

[4xtreme]

The question was can you mount a heating element in a triclamp . The answer is yes . I my self used a two inch dixon I line cap. I chucked it in a laith and drilled and taped it to inch and a half npt. I then tride to us a plastic job box but that leacked. I had to use a hallfman ss 3x3x3 box. Do to plastic the thickness the plastic one leaked into the box it self. I will post a picture if you are intressted

 

[jimc79]

I spent 2 years trying different elements and fittings. I ran water and PBW through the sytem to clean and test prior to brewing. Testing was good was able to hold about 1 degree. Took it all apart to see who thing looked. Found all the coating eaten off the element and it was rusted like it was 20 years old all in about 30 to 45 min of testing. Went through several different heating elements none worked. I must admit I never brewed until I it could pass the clean test. All the element I could find we not stainless steel they were some type of plated steel and the PBW ate them clean down to bare metal. Found a Stainless steel element at SABCO | Heating Element it's a little pricey but it works great and has the tri-clover end on it.

 

[Komodo]

This:

Heating Element conversion plate

 

[julian81]

I bought and use a triclamp element adapter from brewershardware.com on both my HLT and BK. I'm using a short ferrule welded onto each kettle and there's just enough room to put the clamp on and tighten the clamp nut.

I was just curious if you guys noticed the body of the element adapter (where are the wires feed into and the element is screwed into) getting quite hot during operation. I don't see how yours wouldn't be if you're using the same design as me, since the element will heat the water, the water will heat the kettle walls and transfer that heat to the clamp and element adapters on the outside. The big screw on part of the element adapter is not hot (mostly cool to warm) but the cylindrical body of the element adapter is probably over 100F.

Is this something to be concerned about? At this point I've only done a water test and have my first brew scheduled for next week on the new electric system!

Regards,
Julian

 

[julian81]

I bought and use a triclamp element adapter from brewershardware.com on both my HLT and BK. I'm using a short ferrule welded onto each kettle and there's just enough room to put the clamp on and tighten the clamp nut.

I was just curious if you guys noticed the body of the element adapter (where are the wires feed into and the element is screwed into) getting quite hot during operation. I don't see how yours wouldn't be if you're using the same design as me, since the element will heat the water, the water will heat the kettle walls and transfer that heat to the clamp and element adapters on the outside. The big screw on part of the element adapter is not hot (mostly cool to warm) but the cylindrical body of the element adapter is probably over 100F.

Is this something to be concerned about? At this point I've only done a water test and have my first brew scheduled for next week on the new electric system!

Regards,
Julian

Anyone have similar issues? Trying to figure out if it's something to be concerned about or not. Please let me know

 

[McKraken]

I realize this is an old thread, but I want to ask a question about the heating element rusting.

I remember reading somewhere that it's only an issue in the HLT because the BKTL element is in contact with acidic wort, and not just water.

Here's the question: Would you be able to force a patina on the element before using it in the HLT?

I've forced a patina on carbon steel knives, and it pretty much eliminates rusting in that application.