Tower build plus Beer Engine

[Pennine]

Planning out how to have the beer engine on the right and two taps on the left. Should I build a wood enclosure and have the top wood sit in the top of the engine?

I can get 4 2.5 gallon kegs in here. Maybe it's worth having 3 taps?

 

[rmr9]

When I redo my beer engine setup I’ll do something like this. Something that’s more mobile that allows me to utilize my system better. Could bring it up with a cask for a party or something instead of people having to go down into my basement bar!

 

[Pennine]

When I redo my beer engine setup I’ll do something like this. Something that’s more mobile that allows me to utilize my system better. Could bring it up with a cask for a party or something instead of people having to go down into my basement bar!

Thanks I did think about this, it's a great idea. I wanted to add a couple regular taps so I just built it into the main tower. I am hoping the small hole will keep the engine at cellar temps. Although I think I need to rebuild the anagram it's leaking around the pump shaft....

 

[rmr9]

That looks awesome! Great work!

 

[Wigglebutts Brewery]

If one of the new taps was nitro you'd have it all! .
You've got a great setup!!

 

[DuncB]

Thanks I did think about this, it's a great idea. I wanted to add a couple regular taps so I just built it into the main tower. I am hoping the small hole will keep the engine at cellar temps. Although I think I need to rebuild the anagram it's leaking around the pump shaft....

View attachment 881835

I think the leak around the shaft might be solved with an O ring addition.
Somewhere I posted this and the OP found it worked for them as well.
The moving cylinder on those anagrams is a strange design.
I have trouble with the tube inside collapsing on mine.
Staining/ painting the wood box to match the engine?

 

[Pennine]

I think the leak around the shaft might be solved with an O ring addition.
Somewhere I posted this and the OP found it worked for them as well.
The moving cylinder on those anagrams is a strange design.
I have trouble with the tube inside collapsing on mine.
Staining/ painting the wood box to match the engine?

Thanks yeah I just pulled it out and stripped it all down. I think your right, there are actually two o rings a small flat one and a round one that goes around it. I will search your prior post and see if I can get by without getting the full kit..

I put 3/8s tube on it and it was having the same issue with it collapsing. I'll try a thicker 1/2 line when I put it back together but there is not a lot of room in there. I am thinking about raising it up and inch or so.

It's interesting the cylinder is glass.

Yep once I get it all together I will probably just paint it. If I was going to stain I think I would make it a better design.

 

[Pennine]

I was couldn't find a good match for the o rings and they were in pretty good shape so I just cleaned and used some keg lube on them. I think the problem was the springs were stretched out so I found a new pair and this should technically hold the cylinder up against the top o ring I installed on the cylinders shaft.

 

[Pennine]

Ok back together and no leaks so far. @DuncB the o rings were in good shape so I put one on the actual shaft so when the engine was in the closed position the cylinder is fully extended and seals the shaft off. I also replaced the springs so the handle has no play at the top position.

I gave it a really good clean which was probably a good thing.

Here is a pic of where the oring is in the closed position. and a celebratory pint of porter.

 

[Pennine]

I was also going to get a northern swan neck but I actually like the way it pours with the southern short one. And also without a sparkler.

I added the 1/2 tube which does a much better job holding it's form and it fits just fine as is.

All in all a successful night. Now I just need Amazon to send the right size check valve.....

 

[DuncB]

You can actually get a screw on extension spout that allows the odd northern pour. A dedicated stout sparkler is great for cask stout and porter on occasion.
But glad all going well post clean and minor service.
I'm still hunting for the correct non collapsing tube info.

 

[rmr9]

You can actually get a screw on extension spout that allows the odd northern pour. A dedicated stout sparkler is great for cask stout and porter on occasion.
But glad all going well post clean and minor service.
I'm still hunting for the correct non collapsing tube info.

I’m fairly certain I’ve got a thick walled 1/2 tube on mine, it doesn’t collapse at all

 

[Pennine]

You can actually get a screw on extension spout that allows the odd northern pour. A dedicated stout sparkler is great for cask stout and porter on occasion.
But glad all going well post clean and minor service.
I'm still hunting for the correct non collapsing tube info.

I'll send you a picture of the 1/2 tube I put on, it doesn't seem to collapse at all. I also bought one of these to try but didn't realize it was delivered till after I had it all together. They state it can fit on the barb from the engine.

 

[DuncB]

AHH I've got one of those JG connectors but haven't tried it on that engine.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Something that’s more mobile that allows me to utilize my system better. Could bring it up with a cask for a party or something instead of people having to go down into my basement bar!

You have to remember that even if your bar is mobile, cask-conditioned beer isn't really mobile, at least not without a day or two to settle. Obviously it depends on how sticky your yeast is, alternatives are to serve brite (which rather misses the point but is useful at parties) or to fill jugs in the basement and bring them up to the party for people to help themselves, which was the old way of doing things retained by the likes of the Star Inn in Bath, particularly for Bass. I have got away with moving casks short distances at festivals, but you don't want to do it unless you really have to as one jolt means the cask is out of action for the rest of the day. Really you need to move steel firkins with two people to keep the movement smooth, I guess you could do it with one if it was just a pin.

Another consideration for those wanting to mix with kegs, is that British cask beer should officially be stored/served at 12-14°C (54-57°F), although since I'm a slow drinker I like to serve it very slightly cooler than that (10-11°C, 50-52°F) so that it warms up through the sweet spot whilst I'm drinking it. But serving at fridge temperature kills it.

 

[rmr9]

You have to remember that even if your bar is mobile, cask-conditioned beer isn't really mobile, at least not without a day or two to settle. Obviously it depends on how sticky your yeast is, alternatives are to serve brite (which rather misses the point but is useful at parties) or to fill jugs in the basement and bring them up to the party for people to help themselves, which was the old way of doing things retained by the likes of the Star Inn in Bath, particularly for Bass. I have got away with moving casks short distances at festivals, but you don't want to do it unless you really have to as one jolt means the cask is out of action for the rest of the day. Really you need to move steel firkins with two people to keep the movement smooth, I guess you could do it with one if it was just a pin.

Another consideration for those wanting to mix with kegs, is that British cask beer should officially be stored/served at 12-14°C (54-57°F), although since I'm a slow drinker I like to serve it very slightly cooler than that (10-11°C, 50-52°F) so that it warms up through the sweet spot whilst I'm drinking it. But serving at fridge temperature kills it.

Oh absolutely - I understand entirely about not disturbing a cask once it’s been placed in its stillage.

I should have said something like “more flexible” than “mobile”. My setup is basically a rough cabinet thing that the beer engine is attached to and the fridge sits inside. It works but it’s kinda ugly and I think being able to easily move the beer engine would allow for more flexible setups.