torpedo floating dip tube

[bracconiere]

So i tried closed pressure transfering with a torpedo floating dip tube...it sorta worked but i noticed a LOT of air in the transfer line to keg....do you think i should extend the tubing. if this thing is made for a keg that is like 5-6" wide, my milk can is like 2 feet wide, maybe the float is laying on it's side and i need a longer hose to conect it to? and if so, what kind would i get?

 

[hopjuice_71]

The intake on these things have a tendency to angle up and suck from the headspace a bit. Many people solve this by weighing down the intake with a stainless steel nut or something.

 

[bracconiere]

The intake on these things have a tendency to angle up and suck from the headspace a bit. Many people solve this by weighing down the intake with a stainless steel nut or something.

brilliant! do you think a small worm clamp would do it? just like use one to clamp down the tube to the TINY intake on the float?

 

[hopjuice_71]

brilliant! do you think a small worm clamp would do it? just like use one to clamp down the tube to the TINY intake on the float?

Honestly, I'm not sure. I use these, but always with a 1-2 inch long ss mesh filter on the intake. This seems enough weight to keep the intake submerged. Hard to know if a worm clamp will be heavy enough.

 

[bracconiere]

Honestly, I'm not sure. I use these, but always with a 1-2 inch long ss mesh filter on the intake. This seems enough weight to keep the intake submerged. Hard to know if a worm clamp will be heavy enough.

well to miss quote Tennese Ernie Ford, "If the bottom one don't do it, the upper one will!"

 

[crazyjake19]

brilliant! do you think a small worm clamp would do it? just like use one to clamp down the tube to the TINY intake on the float?

I don't know if a worm clamp would be enough weight, though you don't need much. I put a 3/8" stainless nut over the tubing, which fits snug. Then slip the tubing over the barb on the filter (if using one, sometimes I don't). The barb connection shouldn't need a clamp.

Also, pay attention to the curve of the tubing when installing it in the keg. If it has a weird twist or bend in it, it'll be more likely to get into a position where it'll float and draw air. You want a nice gently curve if possible, like a stretched-out Slinky.

 

[bracconiere]

I don't know if a worm clamp would be enough weight, though you don't need much. I put a 3/8" stainless nut over the tubing, which fits snug. Then slip the tubing over the barb on the filter (if using one, sometimes I don't). The barb connection shouldn't need a clamp.

Also, pay attention to the curve of the tubing when installing it in the keg. If it has a weird twist or bend in it, it'll be more likely to get into a position where it'll float and draw air. You want a nice gently curve if possible, like a stretched-out Slinky.

well my fermenter is way wider then a keg. and the float only reaches the bottom? think that would be a problem?

 

[lablover]

My first floating diptube was one of the Torpedo units from Williams. I had the same issue and used a SS washer to weight it down. There are many posts on here and Reddit about the same issue. It's hard for me to believe they have not rectified the issue by adding a little weight when they make them. That said, I got a second one from Ballandkeg (also cheaper than the CBDS) and it worked great right out of the box. They have a heavier tube on the inlet end and their silicone tubing appears to be thicker. They don't supply a small diptube with theirs so you have to use a spare gas side diptube or just cut yours. I cut mine on my serving kegs because I like them in all my kegs.

 

[Brooothru]

My first floating diptube was one of the Torpedo units from Williams. I had the same issue and used a SS washer to weight it down. There are many posts on here and Reddit about the same issue. It's hard for me to believe they have not rectified the issue by adding a little weight when they make them. That said, I got a second one from Ballandkeg (also cheaper than the CBDS) and it worked great right out of the box. They have a heavier tube on the inlet end and their silicone tubing appears to be thicker. They don't supply a small diptube with theirs so you have to use a spare gas side diptube or just cut yours. I cut mine on my serving kegs because I like them in all my kegs.

I got a top drawing dip tube with a bunch of other random gear that I haven't totally sorted thru yet and probably won't for the next week to 10 days (long story). BUT: The pickup end of the silicon tube has an insert (looks like a Gas-In short dip tube that bends about 45 degrees at the end. The net result appears to be that the pick-up, hanging below the floating ball, will always be pointed slightly down below the liquid surface in the keg. I haven't had the opportunity to test drive the system but it looks pretty simple and ingenious. I've got about a half-dozen different top-draw -type dip tubes and have had some of the same issues with gas intake and initial foaming that folks have mentioned. This might be the best solution yet for getting a good pour.

As soon as I get everything sorted out (guests gone home!) I'll get some pics, the name, and a hands-on review.

 

[The_Antikveik]

I have a few floating dip tubes from Kegland that look identical to these Torpedo jobbies. I found swapping the silicone tubing with some slightly bigger, thicker walled (heavier) tubing did the trick. Lengthwise, I don’t think it needs to be much longer than the depth of the vessel to work effectively.

 

[szap]

I have a few floating dip tubes from Kegland that look identical to these Torpedo jobbies. I found swapping the silicone tubing with some slightly bigger, thicker walled (heavier) tubing did the trick. Lengthwise, I don’t think it needs to be much longer than the depth of the vessel to work effectively.

Can you tell me what size tubing you got? The size that came with my floating dip tube were almost impossible to get liquid post and the actual float attached. I think the problem is more how thin the walls of the provided hose are rather than the actual diameter. I had a hard enough time installing it that I cleaned my keg while leaving the float attached.

 

[The_Antikveik]

Can you tell me what size tubing you got? The size that came with my floating dip tube were almost impossible to get liquid post and the actual float attached. I think the problem is more how thin the walls of the provided hose are rather than the actual diameter. I had a hard enough time installing it that I cleaned my keg while leaving the float attached.

I use 6mm ID X 1.5mm wall (9mm OD). This works best in my experience.

 

[marc1]

I've got one or two of these because they are a lot less expensive than the CBDS. They work, but I prefer the CBDS.
The only thing I didn't like about CBDS was that he charged a lot for extra o rings and end caps. I just ordered 2 more, and they came with a bunch of extras, so maybe he figured that out.

 

[matt_m]

I tried one for fermenting in the keg and had all sorts of trouble with it hanging up on the side. Shaking the keg to get it to fall back down defeated the purpose of having it.

 

[odie]

I'm having issues with my floating dip tubes sucking head space as well...either the clip that connects the float and tube end is too short and the tube end keeps popping up to the surface, or I need a little extra weight.

Thinking about getting some SS nuts that can slip over the tube end but can't slip down the silicone tubing.

whatever is the reason, it's most annoying.

 

[Brooothru]

I'm having issues with my floating dip tubes sucking head space as well...either the clip that connects the float and tube end is too short and the tube end keeps popping up to the surface, or I need a little extra weight.

Thinking about getting some SS nuts that can slip over the tube end but can't slip down the silicone tubing.

whatever is the reason, it's most annoying.

I had an issue with the float ball detaching from the attachment ring for the pickup tube on an assembly I got from Williams Brewing. The ring is silver soldered onto the float ball, and the solder point had failed. Williams sent me an entire new assembly, no questions asked, via next day delivery. Superb customer service. I still have the original device.

Spoiler alert: Gorilla Glue doesn't stand up to the effects of beer in a keg when attempting to bind stainless steel surfaces. Anybody know how to silver solder?

 

[odie]

Anybody know how to silver solder?

propane, flux, silver bearing solder...

but I'm only batting 50/50 so far...it is an art...

 

[Brooothru]

Yeah, I haven't tried soldering anything in years, and always lead solder instead of silver. My Dad (electrician) taught me how, but I never developed the finer skills. Did a lot of sloppy work on my 'science' projects growing up, most of which wouldn't stand up to the rigors of home brewing. My wife knows a gal who does amateur jewelry design. She probably has the requisite skills to do the job, hopefully quick and cheap.

 

[szap]

I had an issue with the float ball detaching from the attachment ring for the pickup tube on an assembly I got from Williams Brewing. The ring is silver soldered onto the float ball, and the solder point had failed. Williams sent me an entire new assembly, no questions asked, via next day delivery. Superb customer service. I still have the original device.

Spoiler alert: Gorilla Glue doesn't stand up to the effects of beer in a keg when attempting to bind stainless steel surfaces. Anybody know how to silver solder?

There is a two part epoxy I use to assemble golf clubs so shear strength is high. Not sure if it would hold up in beer. One thing, to work one surface needs to be abraded.

 

[Brooothru]

I think I've got some of that epoxy floating around somewhere on my workbench. Used it to reattach a 4-iron club head to a shaft once (a looooong time ago). Probably all dried out by now, but it's a good idea, re: shearing strength. The one problem I can see, though, is the lack of surface contact area between the wire loop on the pick-up tube and the floating ball itself. At least it wouldn't be subjected to the stresses my 4-iron endured. Especially when I shanked a tee shot with it on a tight par 3, and my second swing was at the ball washer!

 

[szap]

At one time I would do some work repairing clubs and in almost every case the shaft broke before the epoxy bond did. Lack of surface contact would be a concern.