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Too much foam...

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mojo2008

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I've tried all ranges of CO2 pressure in my kegerator and sometimes it pours right, but most of the time I get 2/3 to 1/2 pint of foam. I'm using a Sankey tap and it puts the beer tube right up against the top of my kegerator and introduces a pretty sharp angle in the tubing. Think this could be my issue? I'd rather not cut away at the top of the kegerator, but I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks!
 

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I’m running a 1/4 inch line that’s about 6 feet long. Temp is right about 40 degrees. Not sure of a desired CO2 volume. I’m currently using commercial craft brew kegs, but I’m sure volumes vary between breweries.

I’m guessing I need a longer liquid line- maybe 20 feet or so. The sharp angle will still exist though. Is that a significant contributor to foam?

Thanks!
Andy
 
You likely have two issues going on. One, which you have already identified, is your liquid line length. You could get away with 6ft if you used EvaBarrier (that's what I do) because it is designed to restrict flow, but with typical hose, you probably will need quite a bit more. There are several online calculators to tell you your optimal hose length. Your second issue is likely that your tower is warm. If you can rig up a way to get some cold air blowing up your tower, that will help the initial foamy pours. I don't think the sharp angle is playing much of an issue, however, if you want to reduce the stress on your hose, you could get a "low profile" tap or a dedicated stainless elbow connector.
 
I’m guessing I need a longer liquid line- maybe 20 feet or so. The sharp angle will still exist though. Is that a significant contributor to foam?

There are several online beer line length calculators. This one estimates a 40 foot hose for 1/4” tubing for a 10 second pour with your regulator set at 12 psi (which is going to be pretty standard for most commercial beers). Unless the hose is actually kinked, a sharp radius won’t affect your foam problem as much as your short liquid hose.
Sláinte
 
Another option besides lengthening your beer line or actually replacing it with either a shorter (≈12’-15’) piece of 3/16” ID vinyl or a 6’-7’ piece of 4mm ID EVAbarrier, is to use one of these fittings
6D82AE28-9B78-4E80-9C04-D8765BF44B1B.jpeg84C9F29E-05AB-41A8-B289-FEED1C60EF83.jpegon your sanke coupler to eliminate the straight connector on top.
 
Read these two articles.

I use a flow meter to force carb as described here : Carbonating Options for Kegging - Brew Your Own

I use this meter. An added bonus is you can tell if you have a leak in your system

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072XHVVVQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then do the math in this article for keg line length and serving pressure: A Balancing Act: How to Balance Your Home Draft System | American Homebrewers Association

Takes the guess work out and works.
 
Thanks all for the advice! I've ordered a tower cooler and insulator to start with. I'll likely put the angled coupler on top of may Sanke and lengthen the line if I don't get satisfactory results.

Prost!
 
I'm not going to take that bet! But I do want to see my results iteratively. It'll be easy enough to swap the line out. Tower cooler was installed this morning. We'll see what a pour looks like this afternoon.

On a related note, will a coupler in the 1/4" line cause any issues? It would be easier to go that route than to rerun the line up the tower, but I'm not afraid to make the effort if it's going to matter.
 
I'm not going to take that bet! But I do want to see my results iteratively. It'll be easy enough to swap the line out. Tower cooler was installed this morning. We'll see what a pour looks like this afternoon.

On a related note, will a coupler in the 1/4" line cause any issues? It would be easier to go that route than to rerun the line up the tower, but I'm not afraid to make the effort if it's going to matter.

To be realistic, changing the line out to 5.5 feet of 4mm ID EVA barrier tubing will solve your problem in one iteration with no need for the others. You definitely do not want any splices in the line as it will change the flow velocity and crack CO2 out of solution right after the splice.
 
My pours are much improved now. I get an acceptably low amount of foam on the first pour, but I’ll likely extend the line regardless.

I’m not sure I understand how EVA barrier tubing makes a difference. Is regular vinyl tubing porous enough to allow CO2 and Oxygen through or something?
 
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