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Double IPA Tomorrowland (a NEIPA experience)

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Boiling my second batch of this as I type! Cut the grains back even more from my first batch to hit more of a light single ipa range. Shooting for 1.055 og. Kept the full volume of hops, though! Can’t imagine going wrong with that. If it’s half as good as the first one, I’ll still be thrilled!
Thanks again for posting the recipe, @Redtab78, this is definitely in the main circulation now. Hopefully my LHBS will get some Galaxy one of these days! No complaints about it being Citra-heavy, though. [emoji16]
Updates??
 
Updates??

Came out awesome! Ended up at about 5.7%abv, and tasting great.
IMG_3753.jpg

Head retention is a little off on this batch, but I tried out some different carb-ing techniques on this one, so no big deal.
The one thing I “forgot” to scale back was the hops, so this one came out absolutely bangin. Little hop harshness on the tip/tongue, but nothing too offensive. The Citra/Mosaic/Azacca is always excellent, so no surprises there. Nice fruity flavors throughout. Can’t wait to get some galaxy one of these batches!
 
I had some clogging issues transferring (closed) to my keg. Do you use a hop filter in the FV or in he keg?
Ive been cold crashing for two days but the 6oz dry hops still clogged up my QD on transfer. I guess I need to give in and use a hop spider canister thing?

On another note, I think I’ll split the run hops to half in the keg where I use a filtered CBDS
 
Oh man, that’s the only tough part about this recipe... I am ALWAYS clogging my outlet on my sanke fermenter! I use one of those TC tees with a racking cane with a ball-lock liquid post on it, and this clogs it every time. I had pretty good luck swapping that cane with a standard 1/2” curved one with a length of silicon hose into a standard ball-lock for transfers to cornys. Still got a couple of clogs in the ball lock connector, but a quick disassemble fixed that up. A good cold crash helps a bunch, too. Still haven’t found a fool-proof way to transfer without clogs... at least once it’s in the keg, I haven’t had any issues on the serving side!
 
Thank you for the recipe @Redtab78!

I brewed 10 gallons on Jan 6 and split into 2 five gallon batches and pitched with #1056 & #1318. Very similar dry hopping to yours with only a slight variation in amounts. I used oats with no wheat. I made a small starter and wow did fermentation take off quick! 12 hrs in and solid action. Dry hopped at about 28 hrs and it took off like crazy afterwards. Gonna cold crash tomorrow if gravity reading is stable, and then keg 1 of the fermenters.
Question for you or anyone, would it be best to keg both? Or would racking one into secondary and waiting a month to mature be a good idea while I drink down the first keg? This is my first NEIPA so I appreciate the help!

Thank you again for the recipe!

Cheers!
 
Thank you for the recipe @Redtab78!

I brewed 10 gallons on Jan 6 and split into 2 five gallon batches and pitched with #1056 & #1318. Very similar dry hopping to yours with only a slight variation in amounts. I used oats with no wheat. I made a small starter and wow did fermentation take off quick! 12 hrs in and solid action. Dry hopped at about 28 hrs and it took off like crazy afterwards. Gonna cold crash tomorrow if gravity reading is stable, and then keg 1 of the fermenters.
Question for you or anyone, would it be best to keg both? Or would racking one into secondary and waiting a month to mature be a good idea while I drink down the first keg? This is my first NEIPA so I appreciate the help!

Thank you again for the recipe!

Cheers!

I would keg them both right away. Don’t want to let any extra oxygen get at that beer.
 
Just whipped this up yesterday with some modifications based on the hops I had on-hand (Warrior for bittering, Galaxy/Mosaic/Citra as specified, but dropped 75g (2.5oz) of Polaris in the dry hop in place of Azacca and used Voss Kviek because it's way too hot in my apartment for anything else. Already bubbling happily at 30C/86F and added dry hops 18hrs into the ferment-I'll let y'all know how it comes out!
 
Any extract attempts?
You could try. Just be aware NEIPAs are all about the hops, timing, techniques, and process.

Malts, and especially the adjuncts are important, but you have some freedom in these beers. Using (Golden Light DME) extract for the bulk of fermentables should work just as well, perhaps some substituted with regular sugar to get more attenuation, cutting down on residual cloyingness.
The flaked oats or wheat are essential, you need to do a mini mash. The Honey malt and Carapils should also be added to that mini mash.

The yeast is important too, you need to make a large, healthy starter beforehand. Or use the yeast cake from a previous, lower OG batch.

The bigger issue is, these beers are very sensitive to oxidation, so once fermentation starts there should be no more exposure to air (oxygen) whatsoever. They really need to be kegged (not bottled), and in a certain way, again to prevent oxidation. It's handy to have CO2 available too for purging, flushing, transfers, etc.
 
I made an extract version last Monday. I will post the recipe later. I checked the gravity on Sunday and my hydrometer read 1.022, checked again today and 1.022. I still see active yeast so I'm going to wait but my question is why is this taking so much longer than the original recipe?
 
I made an extract version last Monday. I will post the recipe later. I checked the gravity on Sunday and my hydrometer read 1.022, checked again today and 1.022. I still see active yeast so I'm going to wait but my question is why is this taking so much longer than the original recipe?

Extract is why
 
I made an extract version last Monday. I will post the recipe later. I checked the gravity on Sunday and my hydrometer read 1.022, checked again today and 1.022. I still see active yeast so I'm going to wait but my question is why is this taking so much longer than the original recipe?
What yeast did you pitch?
How much?
How long did you boil the extract?
Boiled all the extract or only part of it, adding the rest after the boil?
Partial boil with water top-up?
 
Used London Ale III, Smack pack(no starter)
Boiled 6.6 lbs for 60 min
Added last 3.3 lbs at 15 min
Had to add 2 gallons of water to top up fermenter.

The OG was 1.069, so a few points under the original recipe.
 
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Used London Ale III, Smack pack(no starter)
Boiled 6.6 lbs for 60 min
Added last 3.3 lbs at 15 min
Had to add 2 gallons of water to top up fermenter.

The OG was 1.069, so a few points under the original recipe.
That's very skimpy on the yeast pitch, and likely the reason.
Depending on the pack's age etc., it may have contained only 50-70 billion cells, if that.

239 billion cells are recommended:
BrewUnited's Yeast Calculator

Any aeration/oxygenation?
60' is a lot of boiling for extract. Together with a lowish volume, making the wort more concentrated, you get more caramelization, thus less fermentability.

Wort, extract is made from, has already been boiled at the maltster, then was condensed. It doesn't need much more boiling anymore, especially in bigger beers.
All these factors add up, and will cause lower attenuation.

Let it be a few more days in a warm place 70-74F. Rouse the yeast by swirling a little, the beer should be fairly cloudy for yeast to do her work.

Prevent oxygen ingress when doing this!
 
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Thanks. I have a dedicated ferm fridge so temp is easy to adjust.

I’ve been make Lawsons Sip of Sunshine as my IPA for about two years and stopped checking gravity levels on that. It always turns out the same on my schedule.

This recipe intrigued me with the different processes used to get the haze.
I’ll use all the helpful tips on my next batch.
 
Here is the full extract recipe I used:

Steeped 1lb of flaked oats, 1/4 lb honey malt, 1/4 carapils for thirty minutes @ 150.
Added 6.6 lbs of LME and 2 gallons of water.
Brought to 150 degrees and added 1 oz of Magnum as FWH
Slowly brought to a boil
Added last 3.3 lbs of LME and wort chiller @ 15 minutes
1 oz of Galaxy @ flameout
Chilled to 160 (which I actually missed so it was really 145) and turned off the chiller
Added 1.5 oz Galaxy, 1 oz Mosaic to steep, stirred every 2 minutes for 20 minutes.
Chilled down to 80 degrees, added to fermenter, topped off with water to bring it to 5 gallons.
Pitched Smack Pack (and part of the package didn't release properly, half was out of the interior pack and the other half was still inside).
OG was 1.069
Fermentation was up and running vigorously 12 hours later.
Added 3 oz of Citra, 2 oz of Mosaic, 2 oz of Azacca as dry hop after 24 hours of fermentation.

After 9 days, the gravity is reading at 1.022 and there is still some yeast activity taking place. Going to let it go a bit longer.


This has smelled great in the ferm fridge the whole time and when I took gravity readings. Should go in the keg soon.
 
This has smelled great in the ferm fridge the whole time and when I took gravity readings. Should go in the keg soon.
Since you're kegging, at least you don't have to be afraid of potential bottle bombs. ;)
Did you taste the sample? Even when sweeter than intended, it must taste pretty good, you still attenuated almost 50 points, it's good beer!

You really need to rethink your boil process. A fairly small 2 gallon boil volume for a 5 gallon batch is not advantageous for higher gravity beers and IPAs as they benefit from full boils. Maybe brew smaller batches, use a larger kettle, or spread the boil over 2 pots.

After the steep, I'd start out with only 1-2 pounds of LME in the early boil, add bittering hops and late boil hops during the boil as usual. Keep topping up the kettle with hot or boiling water as water boils off. A mere simmer is plenty, no need for a wild rolling boil.

You don't even need to boil a full 60 minutes when using extracts. Due to a low gravity boil you'd still get enough bittering (IBUs). Depending on the style, a 20-30' boil may be enough.

At flameout add the rest of the extracts, stir well, scrape the bottom of the kettle to make sure they're dissolved.

If your wort dips under 150-160F after adding them, bring the temp back up to 150-160F, slowly, under constant stirring to prevent potential scorching.
Generally it's recommended to keep wort at 150-160F for at least 10' for it to pasteurize. Not sure what the consensus is right now. You can do your hopstand hops during this time too as it coincides.

Definitely make a yeast starter when using liquid yeast. Aim for 200-250 cells for 5-5 gallons of . Don't cold crash, pitch the whole starter. If you overbuild thew starter somewhat, you can save some starter out in a mason jar to make a starter from for a next batch. Etc.
 
After I signed out I thought of two more questions. Would you keep waiting for the gravity to drop lower? Islandlizard mentioned not cold crashing but I think you meant for the starter not the whole batch. Which got me to thinking, would cold crashing reduce the haze effect?
 
Gravity reading today was at 1.018. I had a keg kick yesterday so I am cold crashing now, kegging soon. Will post a pick once it’s carbed.
Sample today smelled like pineapple and mangos. Tasted ok for flat and warm beer.
 
Brewed a version of this as my first beer back after taking quite a few years off. The nose is amazing and the hazyness is lovely. Time to cold crash and keg. Hoping the taste reflects the smell!!!
 

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Just set this up as my first recipe in Brewfather (thinking of switching from Beersmith) and scaled to my equipment. Thinking of brewing it tomorrow.
 
Brewed my first neipa a week ago and I’m fermenting under pressure. @10 psi. When should I cold crash for transfer to serving keg. I’m fermenting in a keg as well. I just built a neipa off of what I had in hand with Brewfather but this will be my next brew for sure
 
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