Things you shouldn't do...

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The_Bishop

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Well, I finally did it.

I was doing a cleaning cycle on my electric system, and was at the end so I was pumping the cleaning solution out into a bucket.

I smelled something funny, looked up and said, "Hey, why is there a festive orange glow coming from my kett..." which was quickly followed up with a string of expletives that would make a sailor blush.

I had forgotten to turn off my element.

Shut it down and let if cool off. Before I went any further, I checked the resistance reading across the element, came in at 10.4-10.5 ohms, so that still checked out. No continuity from either hot lead to the ground, so far so good.

Looks like I dodged a bullet as far as damaging it electrically, but the element itself had burned on a layer of junk. Man, that took a *long* time to clean off. On the bright side, I got a chance to visually inspect every inch of it... No visible damage. Being as I had to more or less polish the element up, I re-passivated it in the kettle with 140 degree citric acid solution, then did a 15 minute boil test.

Looks like I managed to avoid destroying it. Still might pick up another one just to play it safe and keep this one as a spare.
 
Repassivating after cleaning it off is genius. I would have forgotten to do that.
 
I'm sure my time is coming.
No beer before the counter-flow chiller might help, but that's no guarantee...:eek:

I hadn't even been drinking! I was just rushing around and got distracted. All it takes is a second!

Repassivating after cleaning it off is genius. I would have forgotten to do that.

Well, we'll see if it works. The stainless was red hot, I'm hoping it's still 'stainless' and doesn't start getting rusty on me.
 
I have a float switch in my Kettle, wired in such a way that if my element switch is on the pump will shut off and alarm sounds before the element is uncovered. It’s not totally idiot-proof, but eliminates the most common dry-fire scenario.
 
I have a float switch in my Kettle, wired in such a way that if my element switch is on the pump will shut off and alarm sounds before the element is uncovered. It’s not totally idiot-proof, but eliminates the most common dry-fire scenario.

Why not use the float switch to interrupt the low voltage signal from your PID to your SSR (Making some assumptions here of course...If not using a PID and SSR to control, please disregard)? That would stop your element from firing if the level gets below the float switch.

I am a little curious how you get 1 switch to turn on a alarm and turn the pump off

Cheers!
 
It is a little ironic to read this today,
I accidentally dry fired mine yesterday to the point that the GFCI breaker blew. Not paying attention, I plugged in the wrong pigtail to the BK instead of the HLT. DUH!!! After cooling down the resistance measured 10 ohms and I did use it for the boil after a little cleaning. Guess I too dodged a bullet... I am worried about the life expectancy a little now!!!

Cheers
 
Why not use the float switch to interrupt the low voltage signal from your PID to your SSR (Making some assumptions here of course...If not using a PID and SSR to control, please disregard)? That would stop your element from firing if the level gets below the float switch.

I am a little curious how you get 1 switch to turn on a alarm and turn the pump off

Cheers!
This is what some people including myself do .
I also use a flow switch in my rims to automatically shut off my rims if flow stops... for the whoping $10-15 it cost to add its paid for itself many times over.
 
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