The Stasis - A glycol system designed for homebrewers - Pre-Order now for $599

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hootowl

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Doing a mod to my Spike Flex fermenters. I purchased the spike thermowells to put in the extra triclamp port. That's where I put the Stasis thermocouple. Unfortunately outside ambient air can effect the reading. I don't see much fluctuation but I want a sealed thermocouple. So I purchased a 1/2 x 1/4MFL fitting to put into the end of the thermowell. The hole in the 1/4MFL is a hair small for the TC to fit through so I'll drill it out just big enough to slide it in and probably silicone the hole with the wire coming out.
 

SoulToast

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I'm about to put beer #2 through this thing, and I'll report back.

(After I test the new thermocouple with water first...:smh:)
 

Nate R

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Doing a mod to my Spike Flex fermenters. I purchased the spike thermowells to put in the extra triclamp port. That's where I put the Stasis thermocouple. Unfortunately outside ambient air can effect the reading. I don't see much fluctuation but I want a sealed thermocouple. So I purchased a 1/2 x 1/4MFL fitting to put into the end of the thermowell. The hole in the 1/4MFL is a hair small for the TC to fit through so I'll drill it out just big enough to slide it in and probably silicone the hole with the wire coming out.
Fwiw... i have a spike cf5 with spike thermowell. I use an inkbird temp probe.

I shove a piece of waded up paper towel down the shaft. Seems to work ok for me.
I have also read this super professional technique is done by others here as well
 

Jethrow44

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Craft a Brew posted an update around the vibration on the kickstarter page. I'm pasting it here for transparency.

"We had a few units experience an oscillation or vibration which is the result of the plastic top plate vibrating against the metal casing. Generally this noise will stop if you put pressure on the upper back side of the metal casing. We have confirmed this is coming from the top plate and is nothing mechanical making that sound because if the top plate is removed the sound stops immediately. We have a few solutions being worked out by our engineers with different vibrating dampening materials now. If your unit is having this vibration/oscillation issue please email [email protected] and we will get you on a list to get the fix as soon as we are able."

I emailed support and they added me to the list for the fix. I tried applying pressure to the "upper back side" and found it did not help the vibration.
Support got back to me. Here's what they said:

"Our team's been working on solutions for the noise this week and has provided the following:

While the dampening material didn't seem to eliminate the noise, a much simpler solution did. The 2 screws on the far left of the unit (see photo attached) can be very lightly loosened. We recommend using a Philips head screwdriver to turn the screw a 1/4 turn to loosen the top, then a 1/4 turn to loosen the bottom - 1/4 turn at a time until the sound goes away. We found the metal plate on the inside of the unit, which these screws are connected to, is the source of the vibration and rattling.

NOTE: Only the two screws in the picture need to be loosened. We suggest loosening one 1/4 turn, then the other 1/4 turn as the unit is running so you can hear the sound as you go."

I tried this and it only reduced the vibration. Plus, having loose screws is somewhat unsettling.

I tightened the screws back up needless to say
 

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Nate R

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Support got back to me. Here's what they said:

"Our team's been working on solutions for the noise this week and has provided the following:

While the dampening material didn't seem to eliminate the noise, a much simpler solution did. The 2 screws on the far left of the unit (see photo attached) can be very lightly loosened. We recommend using a Philips head screwdriver to turn the screw a 1/4 turn to loosen the top, then a 1/4 turn to loosen the bottom - 1/4 turn at a time until the sound goes away. We found the metal plate on the inside of the unit, which these screws are connected to, is the source of the vibration and rattling.

NOTE: Only the two screws in the picture need to be loosened. We suggest loosening one 1/4 turn, then the other 1/4 turn as the unit is running so you can hear the sound as you go."

I tried this and it only reduced the vibration. Plus, having loose screws is somewhat unsettling.

I tightened the screws back up needless to say
So... does that mean that all the other users who do NOT currently have the noise have units with non-tightened screws from the factory??

lol- J/K. At least they are working right now AND giving feedback! A lot of companies might hide behind this whole covid stuff
 

birzzz

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So... does that mean that all the other users who do NOT currently have the noise have units with non-tightened screws from the factory??

lol- J/K. At least they are working right now AND giving feedback! A lot of companies might hide behind this whole covid stuff

I had the same message and tried to loosen the 2 screws as explained, 1/4 turn at a time, but it didn't do much. I tried several configurations and the vibration/oosciallating noise never went away. Anyway, I contacted them again and will asking if they know the exact point of vibration to see if we can fit some noise abserbant material in it. Furthermore, even if the vibration/oscillation noise is fixed, the unit is still really loud in itself. I'm wondering if we could use some computer case noise reduction foam inside the unit. There is plenty of room for it on the top plate and front panel. I will wait for support to contact me first before messing around with the unit anyway.
 

hootowl

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I had the same message and tried to loosen the 2 screws as explained, 1/4 turn at a time, but it didn't do much. I tried several configurations and the vibration/oosciallating noise never went away. Anyway, I contacted them again and will asking if they know the exact point of vibration to see if we can fit some noise abserbant material in it. Furthermore, even if the vibration/oscillation noise is fixed, the unit is still really loud in itself. I'm wondering if we could use some computer case noise reduction foam inside the unit. There is plenty of room for it on the top plate and front panel. I will wait for support to contact me first before messing around with the unit anyway.
Ask yourself this question in the context of you being the people and the company that developed this product. It has just been released. Every sale is important. Then a customer bitches online about things that aren't right on a prominant website. All of a sudden their sales drop while they are doing the best they can to resolve the issue. My point is.. take it off line and give them a chance. I've been buying beer stuff from Craft a Brew for years. They are a good company and stand by their products. When you resolve your issue then let us know. Give them a break.
 

birzzz

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Ask yourself this question in the context of you being the people and the company that developed this product. It has just been released. Every sale is important. Then a customer bitches online about things that aren't right on a prominant website. All of a sudden their sales drop while they are doing the best they can to resolve the issue. My point is.. take it off line and give them a chance.
I am bitching?

Wow! that's a strong statement.

I am only stating the facts here and trying to share my experience in all transparency. You want me to hide things up? I don't think it will help anyone, craft a brew folks included.

I don't think we have the same definition for bitching..

Relax and enjoy a beer my friend.
 

hootowl

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Yep bitching. There is etiquette. No reason to dis a product that just came out. Give them a chance OFFLINE
 
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CodeSection

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Ask yourself this question in the context of you being the people and the company that developed this product. It has just been released. Every sale is important. Then a customer bitches online about things that aren't right on a prominant website. All of a sudden their sales drop while they are doing the best they can to resolve the issue. My point is.. take it off line and give them a chance. I've been buying beer stuff from Craft a Brew for years. They are a good company and stand by their products. When you resolve your issue then let us know. Give them a break.
That was a really unnecessary comment (interesting that you later edited the above quote). The company knew of this problem before the order went in. See July 16, 2019 review https://beerandbrewing.com/gear-test-small-scale-chillers/.

The lack of communication and transparency by the company as established many times from posters to this thread speak volumes about the company. People deserve to have their orders filled timely with a working product that delivers on the marketing and promises by the company. Many feel that a four month delay in promised delivery went way beyond being reasonable.

So, while you are happy with the loudness in which you initially denied, and you are happy with the performance and "So far the Stasis is doing what I want", you should not be critical of others that do not share your opinions on the product.
 

hootowl

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That was a really unnecessary comment (interesting that you later edited the above quote). The company knew of this problem before the order went in. See July 16, 2019 review https://beerandbrewing.com/gear-test-small-scale-chillers/.

The lack of communication and transparency by the company as established many times from posters to this thread speak volumes about the company. People deserve to have their orders filled timely with a working product that delivers on the marketing and promises by the company. Many feel that a four month delay in promised delivery went way beyond being reasonable.

So, while you are happy with the loudness in which you initially denied, and you are happy with the performance and "So far the Stasis is doing what I want", you should not be critical of others that do not share your opinions on the product.
Just destroy them. I've lost a lot of faith in people to responsibly deal with issues privately so as not to destroy a company. The internet is too vicous.
 

Thorrak

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Just destroy them. I've lost a lot of faith in people to responsibly deal with issues privately so as not to destroy a company. The internet is too vicous.
I'd feel more sympathetic if they didn't pull a bait and switch. They promised a quiet unit - this unit is unusably loud for my purpose. They don't stand behind their product or their initial claims, and refuse to allow returns for what is effectively a different product from what is promised.
 

Jethrow44

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I'd feel more sympathetic if they didn't pull a bait and switch. They promised a quiet unit - this unit is unusably loud for my purpose. They don't stand behind their product or their initial claims, and refuse to allow returns for what is effectively a different product from what is promised.
This is starting to irritate me as well. I completely understand the world is not normal right now and I think it is great they are still working on a fix. Kudos to them.

However, they initially said, the "vibration which is the result of the plastic top plate vibrating against the metal casing. Generally this noise will stop if you put pressure on the upper back side of the metal casing." This didn't work. Now they are suggesting loosing screws, which also doesn't completely solve the issue.

On top of this, the 2 reviews of the product on the website magically disappeared?
 

Nate R

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This is starting to irritate me as well. I completely understand the world is not normal right now and I think it is great they are still working on a fix. Kudos to them.

However, they initially said, the "vibration which is the result of the plastic top plate vibrating against the metal casing. Generally this noise will stop if you put pressure on the upper back side of the metal casing." This didn't work. Now they are suggesting loosing screws, which also doesn't completely solve the issue.

On top of this, the 2 reviews of the product on the website magically disappeared?
The reviews did not disappear... they are just socially distancing!
 

Thorrak

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This is starting to irritate me as well. I completely understand the world is not normal right now and I think it is great they are still working on a fix. Kudos to them.

However, they initially said, the "vibration which is the result of the plastic top plate vibrating against the metal casing. Generally this noise will stop if you put pressure on the upper back side of the metal casing." This didn't work. Now they are suggesting loosing screws, which also doesn't completely solve the issue.

On top of this, the 2 reviews of the product on the website magically disappeared?
Holy crap. You aren't kidding - they deleted the reviews! That's insane.
 

Jethrow44

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I forget where I read this but someone asked how loud the stasis is compared to other glycol chillers.

We have the SS Brewtech 3/4 HP chiller at the brewery and it puts out 75-80 db. So a unit that is far more powerful and actually intended to be in a brewery setting roughly puts out 5-10 more dbs.
 

birzzz

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To some who still think I am bitching, I am not. I am happy so far with the cooling capability, the aesthetic, the simplicity of control, but it's the noise it makes that drives me nuts. I think I am not alone anyway. Anyhow, I haven't heard anything from support yet, but as soon as I do, I will definately post here what they are going to suggest me to do for the benefit of other users. That's why Internet forum have been created in the first place, to share the good AND the bad.

Peace!
 

hootowl

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Installed quick disconnects. Both sides are valved so no liquid loss when disconnecting. Now I can pull the coil and take it to my cleaning sink.

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hootowl

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CodeSection

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I think some people buy QDs with a 3/8" barb believing the ID is 3/8" when in fact it is 1/4". When I looked at what others recommended, I found that to be the case. I'm looking for a flow through of 3/8". Can you provide a link to what you purchased?
 

Thorrak

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They are designed for 3/8 lines. The lines stretch alot when installing so I believe the id equals the line. Cant measure now because they are installed. I was very cognizant of maintaining id. Next size up would never fit the lines. Unfortunately the makers of these products simply go by line size.
https://www.coleparmer.com/i/cpc-co...4-flow-size-pp/0636485?searchterm=PLCD2200612
These are the ones that I originally bought: https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p...se-barb-panel-mount-coupling-body-3-8-id-barb

They also have the PLCD2200612, though if you're just using it for glycol I'd buy the valved PLCD22006 at 1/3 the cost. For the curious, the whole product line can be seen here.

(For the record, I love these quick disconnects. I have the valved versions for all of my gas lines, and the non-valved versions for all of my beer lines. They have made my life so, so much better)
 

CodeSection

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These are the ones that I originally bought: https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p...se-barb-panel-mount-coupling-body-3-8-id-barb

They also have the PLCD2200612, though if you're just using it for glycol I'd buy the valved PLCD22006 at 1/3 the cost. For the curious, the whole product line can be seen here.

(For the record, I love these quick disconnects. I have the valved versions for all of my gas lines, and the non-valved versions for all of my beer lines. They have made my life so, so much better)
I have looked at these before and I noticed https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p...se-barb-panel-mount-coupling-body-3-8-id-barb is only rated to 32F as its operating lowest temp. Since my glycol runs ~ 18F (crash to 28F), this would not be a fit.

The PLCD22006 and PLCD17006 can go as low as -40F. Can you confirm that the flow through with these pieces is indeed 3/8" and not 1/4" at the inside shut off? When I called the company before, the person indicated that while it says 3/8" ID, it is reduced inside at the valve to 1/4".

Perhaps there was some miscommunication when we spoke. Due to that conversation and their literature indicating 1/4" flow, I never bought any.
 

Thorrak

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I have looked at these before and I noticed https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p...se-barb-panel-mount-coupling-body-3-8-id-barb is only rated to 32F as its operating lowest temp. Since my glycol runs ~ 18F (crash to 28F), this would not be a fit.

The PLCD22006 and PLCD17006 can go as low as -40F. Can you confirm that the flow through with these pieces is indeed 3/8" and not 1/4" at the inside shut off? When I called the company before, the person indicated that while it says 3/8" ID, it is reduced inside at the valve to 1/4".

Perhaps there was some miscommunication when we spoke. Due to that conversation and their literature indicating 1/4" flow, I never bought any.
It’s probably 1/4”. That said, I’m happy to check it if you have thoughts on how to go about doing so - the valve is well inside the connector, unfortunately.
 

hootowl

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I think some people buy QDs with a 3/8" barb believing the ID is 3/8" when in fact it is 1/4". When I looked at what others recommended, I found that to be the case. I'm looking for a flow through of 3/8". Can you provide a link to what you purchased?
If you are using the lines supplied by Craft a Brew, bigger ones than what I have wont allow the lines to fit over the barb. I'm thinking the supplied lines are 1/4 id
 

hootowl

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As you can see here the tubing has to stretch to get over the barb. I'm thinking if you can find a barb less fitting, the inner diameter could be a little larger. As it stands, wall thickness of the fitting is the issue. For the barb to be the correct od to stretch the tube for a tight fit, the ID can only be so big before the fittings wall thickness becomes too weak.
 
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hootowl

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https://www.mcmaster.com/quick-disc...e-fittings/connection-style~quick-disconnect/

McMaster-Carr for All the Things!
Certainly not always the cheapest, but they've almost always got it, whatever "it" is. If nothing else, they're really useful for finding the verbiage you need to search for something with a lot of variables.
I hear you. I use them all the time. Unfortunately they don't make the plastic disconnects and I'm reasonably sure they are Cooper brand. I called Cole Parmer who distributes the Cooper brand. They had a very difficult time answering the internal dia. -vs- tubing questions. The barb style are only based on tubing size with ID of the fitting data difficult to discern.
 

birzzz

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In all transparency,

CraftaBrew contacted me to say that they are working on a more permanent solution for the rattling noise. That's nice to know.

Cheers!
 

Thorrak

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In all transparency,

CraftaBrew contacted me to say that they are working on a more permanent solution for the rattling noise. That's nice to know.

Cheers!
That would be awesome if the noise that I was encountering was a rattling noise and not a fan/compressor noise.

At this point I’m still appalled they deleted the reviews from their website.
 

birzzz

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That would be awesome if the noise that I was encountering was a rattling noise and not a fan/compressor noise.

At this point I’m still appalled they deleted the reviews from their website.
I hear you totally, I too have the compressor noise and fan noise. But if they can fix the rattling noise, that would be one out of three. I am puzzling as to how to minimise the noise of the compressor. I have bought form amazon some dampening pads that I put under the feet of the the unit. It helped a bit in eliminating some noise transfered thoughr vibration, but it's still too loud. On my db meter app on my phone (I know it's not the real thing) I read 10db difference from another room whenever the unit turns on. I have put some weather strip all around the door where it runs, it helps a bit too.

But, yes no matter what, this unit is really loud...
 

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I hear you. I use them all the time. Unfortunately they don't make the plastic disconnects and I'm reasonably sure they are Cooper brand. I called Cole Parmer who distributes the Cooper brand. They had a very difficult time answering the internal dia. -vs- tubing questions. The barb style are only based on tubing size with ID of the fitting data difficult to discern.
Digging down through: For Tubing > Food And Beverage (or air and water) had connectors listed out by ID from ⅛”, ¼” , and ⅜”.

I feel like links resolve differently depending on how you entered the rabbit hole, and I’ve got a nasty habit of linking a few levels higher than I should have. Sorry about that.
https://www.mcmaster.com/5012k115
That’s ¼” ID with shut off.
 

hootowl

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And so far... happy with my Stasis. Made a custom fitting to seal the thermowell to the supplied thermocouple. 1/2" NPT Male to 1/4" MFL Male Flare Adapter. Had to open all the holes to .203 to get the tc through. Modified this coupling to add an internal taper so an o-ring will close up on the wire when compressed with a 1/4" female flare cap. Modified the flare cap by drilling a .203 hole through it. I had to use two nylon flare gaskets stacked to get the spacing right. This is for a Spike Brewing Flex fermenter.

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Nate R

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And so far... happy with my Stasis. Made a custom fitting to seal the thermowell to the supplied thermocouple. Had to open all the holes to .203 to get the tc through. Modified this coupling with an internal tape so an oring will close up on the wire. This is for a Spike Brewing Flex fermenter. View attachment 677160
Great work... of course--- i see the Miller Lite!!! That always makes my projects better!!!
Reminds me of my tour of Silver Oak Winery in Napa... the founder in the 70's, drinking a Coors.... it takes a lot of beer to make great wine! As they say
 
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