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The power cord is the most expensive part

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z-bob

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The first few pieces of my electric brew project came in the mail yesterday -- 2500W and 5500W water heater elements. I'm going to start out installing them in 90 mil HDPE plastic buckets. Then someday will probably move the 2500W to a 10 or 15 gallon plastic drum and add a control circuit.

So last night I started planning out the details, like wire sizes and where I'll attach the ground wire... and I realized I need 30A wire for the big element, and HPN heater cord doesn't come any bigger than 16/2. So I gotta use something like 10/3 SJTO at about $2 per foot.

Maybe I can get by with a premade dryer cord (I have one on my welder) but those aren't very flexible, and I'm not sure 6 feet is long enough... So I will start out wiring that big sucker for 120V. 1375 watts is enough to test the concept.
 
You get what you pay for. The dryer cord sets are not really rated for what your doing. SO cable is. Just suck it up and get the proper equipment. Electrical components are NOT where "getting by" should ever be used in the same sentence. It will bite you in the butt, just a matter of time.
 
I paid around $1.35/foot for SJOOW 10/3 and I think $1.55 for 10/4 on a online store. Just do a search. It's the cheapest place I found it. If you buy like 50' of it, it'll come out much cheaper then HD or Lowes. I knew I could always use the stuff, so I bought a few feet.
 
Thanks. Looks like SJEOW or SJOOW will work and stay flexible in the cold, in case Wife runs me out of the house with it in the winter.

I found 10/3 SJOOW online today for $1.07/ft at Americord; they say to call for a price on 50' of SJEOW. And I'm gonna check tomorrow at Graybar Electric (local supply house that I've dealt with before) and see what they charge.

ETA: oops, minimum order at Americord is 250 feet. WireAndCablesToGo.com minimum is 20'.
 
Thanks. Looks like SJEOW or SJOOW will work and stay flexible in the cold, in case Wife runs me out of the house with it in the winter.

I found 10/3 SJOOW online today for $1.07/ft at Americord; they say to call for a price on 50' of SJEOW. And I'm gonna check tomorrow at Graybar Electric (local supply house that I've dealt with before) and see what they charge.

ETA: oops, minimum order at Americord is 250 feet. WireAndCablesToGo.com minimum is 20'.

Ask your local supply house for a little discount, they may work with you. Offer them some homebrew...
 
1) Go buy 20' of SJOOW wire from Home Depot or Lowes
2) Return wire and get your money back
3) Buy wire at a significant discount from the "cut wire" rack the next day

Devious.
 
Local supply house doesn't have any 10/3 SJxxx cord, but they do have SOOW for $1.45 per foot. I'll probably just go with that. If I try to get something cheaper online, the shipping will eat up all the savings and then some. (being cheap is hard work sometimes)

Gotta figure out what length I really need, then add a foot just because.
 
Be careful with those buckets. I tried the electric bucket idea and the HDPE bucket was very soft and floppy at boiling temps. Unsafe in my opinion. The euros/brits/aussies who do this use PP fermenting buckets and those heavy wall blue poly drums.
 
Heavy blue drums is where I hope to wind up with this. The HDPE buckets are just for practice -- but if they work, I may keep one for my HLT.
 
I live in an apartment and didn't want to do any permanent modifications to the building, so, 50' of 10/3 sjoow cable and then I got a set of twist locks to hook up the end of the cable to a 3' dryer cord. I used butt connectors for a week but it felt really dodgy.
 
I found the outlets / plugs / receptacles to be the most expensive part of the equation. As such I am so far doing well with reduced connection points, but slightly more cumbersome equipment. It shouldn't be too hard to add connectors in here or there later and split the cost up over a longer time.

I also brew indoors and didn't want to re-do wiring. Not that I can't have it done or DIY, but that's more cost. I got a stove plug, gang box with cover, those electrical clamps that are used with a gang box, and 10/2 (2 conductor + ground) armour coat wire. Wired the gang box, wiring, stove plug all together and marrett off the neutral. If you haven't noticed I opted for a pure 240v setup and the neutral is not required.

From there the wire goes directly into control panel with another clamp. Control panel does its thing and output is a receptacle L6-30. Matching plug on the kettle, and it goes into a waterproof housing with a water resistant cord grip. Not the most elegant system but far better than the old setup and upgradeable.

Now where are the savings here?
A - 1 less conductor in wire. In addition L6-30 was cheaper than L14-30 (I think that's the competition)
B - Used existing high capacity circuit
C - Wire going to panel doesn't need plug. Panel doesn't need inlet. Kettle doesn't have inlet. Saved 4 connectors.

And the downside:
A - Must only use 240v parts. Most are variable 80-280v anyways.
B - I need to move my stove out of the way when it's brew day.
C - Having wired permanently wall-panel and panel-element it is a bit cumbersome to move pot around with the cord sticking out.

And the dangers?
-Using breaker that exceeds what the system needs
-Having a terminated neutral inside gang box

Edit: Come to think of it I can't remember where I saw a setup that had an inlet right on the kettle and an extension cord going between panel and kettle. Oh well, it's already all typed out.
 
I recently bought a 25' 30A dryer cord with the twist lock end on amazon for barely over $100. I think a 50' cord was about $160.

Figured I would rather have an outlet installed right under my breaker panel for cheap than run a perm install inside my brew space.
The wife doesn't mind having the power cord in the way on brew days.
 
I picked mine up 10/3 up at Menards in the area for RV electrical, I don't recall paying $2/foot.
 
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