The braumiser, my braumeister inspired rig

[bobfranklin]

Guys most of this was built in Aus using our Jaycar part numbers
Jaycar buy from either Farnell or RS.

For pumps I recommend finding people on Alibaba and asking for samples, the green pumps are excellent march pumps and food grade with good impellers.
The brown pumps vary in quality, make sure they are food grade, up to 150 degrees (or at least over 110) and get samples - price of pump = gone.

Bendable elements are also GOLD!

 

[pksublime]

If/when I attack this, I'll get Digikey or Mouser parts and post them up.

 

[matho]

Hello
where can i buy the brewmisershield? i want to build the Controller an use it in my homebrewery ( remise-braui.ch ).
thanks for the graet code.
remo

Hey remo,

I don't have any PCB's left but I would not mind if someone in the USA does a run of PCB's and sells them to interested people. You don't need the PCB as you can use a prototyping board, it just won't be as neat. In the http://www.mediafire.com/?ji79nrtwvk3gga2 ZIP file there are all the eagle schematics and board files so that anyone can produce their own PCB files to send to a PCB manufacture. I used Fusion PCB service http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fusion-pcb-service-p-835.html?cPath=185 there is a guide on how to make the Gerber files needed to make the PCB's too.

cheers steve

 

[pksublime]

Well I for one would definitely be willing to run the order.

Everyone, let me know via PM if you're interested. First step is to see how many are interested, then we'll go from there getting the boards and then possibly a big DigiKey/Mouser order for components.

 

[mdwilson]

Hi Matho,
Thanks for all of the hard work on the Brauduino. I have just completed build on a system using your code. I was planning on a system similar to the High Gravity BIAB system, but with an Arduino conrtoller. I had most of the parts for the build when I stumbled across your posts. The code was easy to adapt. I built it using an Arduino Proto shield.
Differences:
I wired the buttons straight to the Arduino and used the INPUT_PULLUP instead of external pull-up resistors.
I wired the Arduino output straight to the SSR.
I'm using a logic level MOSFET to drive the pump instead of a relay (I may use the PWM capability at some point to control the pump flow rate).
I didn't use LEDs on my build. I modified the code to display "H" and "P" in the first character positions of line 1 and 2 on the LCD display when either the pump or heater are active.
I modified the code to display in degrees F.

None of these changes are better, just how I had planned to build the system before I found your posts.

So far I'm waiting on a pump and have wired the system to 120V for checkout. I have had the system heating and boiling water.

Question for you guys:
I have a 5500W heater element. Would it be good to directly control the % heater output during the boil instead of using temperature control? or can you effectively control boil rate with temp? I ask because the HighGravity system allows you to switch off the PID and manually control the heater output during the boil. I've started to mod the code to allow this, but am wondering if it is worth the effort.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

I can't speak to the arduino factor, but boiling water is 212*F (or there abouts) regardless of whether it's a slow boil or a raging boil. I have yet to actually brew a batch using a PID or electric element, but most everyone on the boards uses a temperature set point to get NEAR boil (so they can set and forget) and then change to manual at around 50-65% depending on the size of the element / quantity of wort to boil

So, in short, control the heater output and don't try and maintain boil with a temperature control.
-Kevin

 

[chuckjaxfl]

Hi Matho,
Thanks for all of the hard work on the Brauduino.

I agree! I read your code awhile back. After MUCH trial-and-error, I realized that the key to the PID library is only using PID once you are at/near the setpoint, and to use something else to get you into that band. Then, a long time after THAT, I realized that you had already been down this road and posted that in your sketch. I facepalmed.

I wired the buttons straight to the Arduino and used the INPUT_PULLUP instead of external pull-up resistors.

Me too, except I put a cap across the button. I could be wrong, but *think* INPUT_PULLUP was added after 1.0? Maybe, maybe not? I don't think it was there when Steve wrote Brauduino.

I'm using a logic level MOSFET to drive the pump instead of a relay (I may use the PWM capability at some point to control the pump flow rate).

What pump are you using? I'm considering the same thing. I.E., using a bubbler and the PID library to control the level of the mash during sparge. It might be overkill, but that's a horrible reason not to try as far as I'm concerned.

I have a 5500W heater element. Would it be good to directly control the % heater output during the boil instead of using temperature control?

Yes

or can you effectively control boil rate with temp?

No.

but am wondering if it is worth the effort

It is. And for what it's worth, I suggest giving up an analog pin and using a pot. It's just intuitive (and QUICKER) to reach over and dial down an element by turning a knob counter-clockwise instead of swapping through menus and holding a button down to lower your PWM percentage, and hoping it comes down before you boil over.

 

[mdwilson]

using a topsflow pump from US solar pumps. I don't know if I can control it with PWM because it has internal electronics. I'll find out.

 

[matho]

thats awesome I'm glad I could help.

As for the boil, I have used a PID algorithm in my first controller to control the boil and it works OK, I can go from a simmer to a mild boil to a strong boil by adjusting the set temperature, if you set it to boiling point then the pid will put in just enough power to keep it there so you get a slow simmer, if you put the set temp just a couple of degs higher then you get a stronger boil because of the proportional part of the PID. I have not tried the arduino library to control the boil and you might find after a while the I will wind up and you get a full boil happening but it can be fixed but dropping the temp by a couple of degs and wait for the I to drop back down. In any part of the brewing process the set temperature can be adjusted by the up down buttons and in the boil stage the temp can be increased to 120 degs c so you can achieve full power without the PID stuffing you up.

cheers steve

 

[mdwilson]

I went ahead and modded the code, just because I had time while I'm waiting for the pump to arrive. I've modified it so that once the set point temp is reached in the boil stage or when setpoint is reached above 200F in manual mode the up down buttons directly control the % heat output. The display changes from S/A= to %/A= to indicate the switch over. The initial % heat output is stored in EEPROM with the other settings. It seems to work OK.

 

[came2meca]

Hi Matheo.

I like your work so much and honestly i would like to make something similar.
I have a nano arduino. Can i use this board for this project and how can i make the shield to fit my board.
Also i am planing to use a 220v pump. how will that change the design of the shield.

Thank you and keep up the good work.

 

[matho]

Hi Matheo.

I like your work so much and honestly i would like to make something similar.
I have a nano arduino. Can i use this board for this project and how can i make the shield to fit my board.
Also i am planing to use a 220v pump. how will that change the design of the shield.

Thank you and keep up the good work.

the nano has the same pin out so you would have to get a board that would take the nano form and put it into a uno form, also it would have to be a nano that has a ATmega328 as the ATmega168 just doesn't have enough room (code complies to 14.5k). The eagle PCB files can be changed so you could make up a board to accept the nano. The pump control relay has its contacts taken out to a screw connector so it can switch 12v or 240v so you don't have to change the design there.

cheers steve

 

[came2meca]

Thank you for your replay. My nano is the ATmega328, so no problems there.
I was struggling all night to adapt the PCB design to fit the nano, but i'm having problems with the way the pins connect to the lcd. I am hoping to make the board myself and connect the lcd to pcb through a cable and maybe this will make the design more "loose".
I'm going to stick for now to a 12v "solar project" pump.

I'll give it another go now and maybe i'll manage to adapt the board by tomorrow morning.

Thank s again, A.C.

 

[came2meca]

duble post.

Sorry

 

[mdwilson]

I used a ribbon cable with DIP header on one end to connect my LCD to my controller board. I built the system around a protoboard and used a logic FET
to control a 12V solar pump.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/photo/controller-wired-to-lcd-and-pushbuttons-57433.html

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/photo/view-of-front-panel-57435.html

I tried it last night for the first time on 240V. It seems to work OK. I'm overshooting my temps 1-2 degree F.

 

[mysd]

Matho, thanks for all the detailed build PDFs, I'm in the early stages of the controller build now. I have ordered what I hope are equivalent parts from mouser.com and can provide the part numbers once I have a working board and confirm they are all correct.

Mdwilson, is there any chance you could fork matho's github repo and post your changes for comparison? Or even post the code here if possible?

I will be breadboarding this first to test out all the components before trying to order a pcb.

Thanks!

 

[matho]

just a few things that has come up over the last couple of weeks, people that have been trying to switch 240v AC pumps have been reporting that the LCD becomes scrambled. It looks like its emi caused but switching the 240v, which seems to be able to be managed with a RC snubber circuit across the contacts of the relay. The second issue is a glich in the code, if the last stage finishes on a pump rest, then the only thing that will be displayed in the boil stage is 'pump rest' I have fixed the code and pushed it to github

https://github.com/mathoaus/braumiser-controller

mdwilson it would be cool if you posted the code as mysid has mentioned


cheers steve

 

[mdwilson]

I have forked the code on github (at least I think I did). Here is the link:
https://github.com/mdwilson/braumiser-controller
I swapped the output pins for the buzzer and pump, so you will want to swap them back if you are using the actual Brauduino hardware.

 

[mysd]

I have forked the code on github (at least I think I did). Here is the link:
https://github.com/mdwilson/braumiser-controller
I swapped the output pins for the buzzer and pump, so you will want to swap them back if you are using the actual Brauduino hardware.

Great, thanks!

 

[dsurratt]

I just received my new Braumeister. There was no power cord to received the electric power to run the unit. I had an electrician put in 240 outlet, no cord to plug in the unit. Should the come with a power cord? MoreBeer said should my electrician change I out. Can you help me with this issue?

 

[wyzazz]

I just received my new Braumeister. There was no power cord to received the electric power to run the unit. I had an electrician put in 240 outlet, no cord to plug in the unit. Should the come with a power cord? MoreBeer said should my electrician change I out. Can you help me with this issue?

You should have recieved a power plug but it won't fit our outlets. You will need to modify the end of the cord to fit our American outlets. There is a huge Braumeister thread around here somewhere that has a step by step on how to do this. I would search it out for you but I am on my phone.

 

[wyzazz]

I found it!

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/speidel-braumeister-brewmaster-229225/index103.html#post3446632

 

[CS223]

I have forked the code on github (at least I think I did). Here is the link:
https://github.com/mdwilson/braumiser-controller
I swapped the output pins for the buzzer and pump, so you will want to swap them back if you are using the actual Brauduino hardware.

Does this code have the fix that Steve mentions above?

 

[matho]

Does this code have the fix that Steve mentions above?

yes it does.

One thing I have noticed is that the pump is not on during the boil, the reason I put the pump on up until 94 deg c is so that the wort stuck in the pump and plumbing gets up to a good temperature to sanitise it.

cheers steve

 

[mdwilson]

Not a bad idea on the pump during boil, but mine is a BIAB set-up. I close the spiggot and disconnect the pump and hoses right when removing the malt.

I did find the pump rest issue, and fixed it, but I thought I had caused it with the changes I made.

I tried the system for the first actual brew session today. I made a Nut Brown Ale. It was not without a few snags, but the good news is that it is fermenting now.
1. The temp sensor glitched during mash in and told me to add malt early. I ignored and restarted the brew process (if this happens again I may make the code check three successive temp readings before starting the stage timer).
2. The temp sensor froze at 131F during the mash. I caught it before the heat ran away. I paused the system, unplugged the temp probe, and re-connected. It was fine after that.
3. After the pump rest the pump did not come back on. Actually the pump completely failed. I continued by stirring the mash. The boil went fine; ran it at 70% heat and 100% for the last 10 min to concentrate the wort a little further.

 

[matho]

I have never had a DS18B20 freeze on me but it could be that I poll it to see when the conversion has taken place and then read the temperature then. This can only be done if the DS18B20 is being powered and not in parasite mode. I would check the DS18B20 too.

cheers steve

 

[mdwilson]

I found that pin 3 of the DS18B20 had become shorted to the thermowell which is connected to ground. The Arduino and DS18B20 are floating, so it does not affect their operation functionally, but there could be noise issues.
I was able to pull the thermal sensor out and re-pot it with high-temp RTV.

I was trying to mod the code to check if more that 1 second had passed since conversion start before the conversion was complete and flag an error, but this is not the only error case. I found that unplugging the thermal sensor would not induce an error and partially plugging it in and getting a reading stuck at 185F (actual temp was 72F) would also not cause an error. So, for now I'm going to assume that re-potting the sensor will fix the problem and not add any additional software checks.

 

[came2meca]

I'm using a logic level MOSFET to drive the pump instead of a relay (I may use the PWM capability at some point to control the pump flow rate).

I am planing to use a solid state relay to turn on/off the pump and the heating element... I have no idea if i have to change anything in the code if i'm not using "MOSFET" or "FET" as you do. Also if you have any newer versions of the code whould you be kind enough to post it.

I already have the circuit on the prototype board and i'm planing to make a homemade shield for my arduino.

Thank you. A.C.

 

[mdwilson]

Hi A.C.

You shouldn't need to change anything in the code to use an SSR in place of the logic level FET.
I have not made any changes to the code from what was posted.

I have brewed a couple of times on the system and everything seems to work great. I really like it.

Good luck with your project. Let us know how it goes.

-Mike

 

[saviothecnic]

so I have finished developing the brauduino shield to control a braumeister style brew rig.

Very Interesting I read from Italy sorry if I write bad use google translator

I have some beer I've always liked best Braumeister but it costs too much

I know electronics mechanics so this topic will Daiuto me and I want to try it myself to do it from me to Braumeister

You tell me latest firmware Arduino and the wiring diagram to use?

What can be used Arduino 2009 I'm already seeing someone who is resisting tailored to a maximum of 30 Litres 23 230V 1800W okay?

How circulator pump is fine by boiler or solar panel?


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In Italiano per i connazionali che leggono

Molto Interessante Io leggo da Italia scusate se scrivo male uso google traduttore

Faccio birra da qualche hanno mi è sempre piacuto braumeister ma costa troppo

Ho conoscenze meccanica elettronica quindi questo topic mi sara daiuto e voglio provare anche io a fare da me il braumeister

Mi dite ultima versione del firmware arduino e dello schema elettrico da usare ?

Cosa si usa Arduino 2009 sto vedendo gia uno che fa resistenza su misura per 23 massimo 30 Litri va bene 1800W 230V ?

Come pompa va bene cirrcolatore da caldaia o per pannello solare ?