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That SMH moment - and a question

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whovous

Waterloo Sunset
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So, I've been trying to figure out how just how "big" a five gallon batch I can get from a six gallon kettle. I do continuous recirculation in an eBIAB set-up together with a pour-over sparge and figure I can even do a partial boil and add more water at the end. With these thoughts in mind it all comes down to just how thick a mash I can create before the wort just won't recirculate anymore.

I mill my grain while heating/recirculating the water to 154F. My temp probe is in the T off of the pump, so I have to recirculate if I want to know the temp. The temp hits 154, I reset the temp to 150 for the mash, turn off the pump, take off the lid and put it in the kitchen sink, then carefully lower the grain bag into the kettle. I am a little worried that I have so much grain that it could overflow. With the bag fully lowered, I see no water at all above the grain, so I get my mash paddle and start to stir. I get a sticky mess, but still no sign of water. Jeez, just how thick is this mash and am I gonna have to add more water just to get started?

I lift the bag and find maybe a gallon of water in the kettle bottom. The SMH moment finally arrives. When I turned off the pump, I neglected to close the valve on the kettle. When I put the lid in the sink, it was lower than the valve and good old Mr Gravity was ever so quietly delivering my strike water to the drain.

The question: I happened to have three gallons of possible RO sparge water nearby at roughly 80F. I added almost all of it to the mash and turned the pump back on. The temp dropped to about 127F before beginning to rise again. I waited for it to reach 150F before setting the 60 minute mash timer. Question: Did I do any real damage here? I figure I rinsed some potential sugars down the drain because my numbers were lower than expected, but did I change anything else with this low temp mash?
 
No real damage, you just did a continuously upsloping "step" mash, which included a combined protein/beta glucanase "step" at 127-135F and a beta amylase "step" which started around 145F. You should get well fermentable wort from it.

Now if you want to reduce fermentability you'll need to start mashing at higher temps (154-158F) to curb beta amylase activity, so it spends as little time as possible below 154F, to favor alpha amylase. But you know all that. ;)

A water to grain ratio of 1.0 (1:1) is about as thick as anyone wants to do, IMO. It's thick, hard to stir! I used to do some at 1.25 when I started, but moved to 1.50 soon after that. Much easier to stir and hold temps.

I'd do a dunk (batch) sparge with the bag in a spare kettle/bucket and add the (2nd) runnings/drippings to the kettle to keep it topped up. The majority gets added early to fill the headspace created after pulling the bag.

Are you boiling on a stove inside or on a propane burner outside?
 
None of the above. eBIAB w/ continuous recirc courtesy of a Chugger pump and temp control by Auber. I think I lost a few fermentables down the drain, but my fermenter is dutifully bubbling away this AM regardless.

I could have had a real disaster if the kettle ran completely dry. With no heated water to the sensor, temps would have dropped and Auber would have cranked up the voltage to the heating element. Fortunately, I SMH'd myself before that could happen.
 
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None of the above. eBIAB w/ continuous recirc courtesy of a Chugger pump and temp control by Auber. I think I lost a few fermentables down the drain, but my fermenter is dutifully bubbling away this AM regardless.

I could have had a real disaster if the kettle ran completely dry. With no heated water to the sensor, temps would have dropped and Auber would have cranked up the voltage to the heating element. Fortunately, I SMH'd myself before that could happen.
Oh yeah, SMH here too, you mentioned eBIAB.
Are you using anything to prevent melting the bag/scorching the mash when the element kicks in? Heating mash directly is risky anyway.

The Auber is just a PID, cycling the element on and off, depending on your temp probe reading at the pump, isn't it? You definitely need a decent amount of liquid (wort) so you have an actual flow, and a loose enough medium to disperse the heat, me thinks.
 
I have a DIY false bottom consisting of a 1/4" mesh cake cooling plate resting on 2" bolts for legs. It keeps the bag about 3/4" away from the element. Everything circulated just fine once I added the water and turned the pump back on. The additional water was RO water, so I tried adding some Gypsum and CaCl to the mix, but it is anyone's guess where the ultimate levels wound up.
 
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