Terrible Efficiency yet again, please help

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Boston85

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So today I brewed probably my 7th AG recipe, and once again I had terrible efficiency. I did Ed Wort's Robust Porter https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f126/bee-cave-brewery-robust-porter-56768/

All ingredients were exactly the same, and I am trying to figure out how things went so wrong. First a little of my set up. I have a 9 gallon Colemans Xtreme cooler with a stainless steel hose as my manifold. I then have a 9 gallon brew pot.

Here are the steps I followed today.

1.) I wanted to mash in at 1.6 qts/lbs as I was reading online you may get a bit better efficiency in a thinner mash. So according to Beer smith I brought 5.5 gallons of water to about 170 degrees to pour into mash tun and pre-heat it. I then dumped all ~14 lbs of grain in. It settled out at around 155 degrees which was a bit more than I was hoping for, but I stirred everything good and let it sit. I would up lightly stirring every 15 minutes or so. I let the mash go 75 minutes to try and get a few extra points out of it. Took my first running by recycling about .25 gallons until clear. Wound up collecting about 3.65 gallons on first running. I took these runnings pretty quickly. Once I saw it running clean, I opened the spiggot and let her rip.

2.) I had heated another 3 gallons to 200 degrees, and poured that in. I poured it directly on the grains pretty hard. I then stirred a little and let it sit 5 minutes. It seemed to settle out between 160 and 170 depending on where I put the thermometer. I then repeated the end of step one and wound up collecting just under 7 gallons total. I was shooting for a pre-boil size of 7 gallons. Since I thought I would be a little short, I had heated another 2 gallons to 200 degrees and poured it in again. I immediately took enough of those runnings until getting to 7 gallons.

3.) since everything was hot, I took a small sample in my hydrometer case and put it in my freezer to cool off to about 65 degrees. I immediately started my boil. When the sample was down to temperature, I took a hydrometer reading and it read 1.042. According to beer smith, I should have been at 1.053, so way off. That gave me a mash efficiency of 60.6.

4.) I brought everything to boil, threw in hops and let it go. I wound up doing about an 80 minute boil total. Put my wort chiller in and cooled everything down. Again when I took a hydrometer reading, I came in at 1.060 with just about 5 gallons collected. My goal was 5.5 gallons at 1.062, so my brewhouse efficiency came in at 65. I am worried that my OG would have been even worse if not for the Malto-Dextrine, which it appears beersmith does not account for.

5.) Once everything was cooled I transferred to 6 gallon glass carboy and poured in my rehydrated notty yeast.

I am trying to figure out what I could possibly be doing wrong here. I was pretty confident that I would have had great efficiency before the boil, but it was terrible. Could my higher mash temperature have impacted that?

One other thing I am worried about is my hose manifold. When I mix the grains around every 15 minutes, I see the hose moving around with the grain, and it does not stay on the bottom of the cooler. Could I be missing key wort at the bottom of the cooler if my hose is somewhere in the middle of the grain bed? I pretty much got every last drop from first runnings, so didnt think I missed much.

I have copper pipes that I am trying to make in to a manifold. I am currently using a hand saw to cut small slits in it. Would that be better?

Also I would have thought that since my pre boil gravity was 1.042 vs estimates 1.053 that my OG would have been more off. Granted I had about .5 gallons less of wort from expected, but it still only was 1.060 vs 1.062. This is why I worry that my 1.060 should be much lower if not for Malto-dextrine.

Does anyone see anything glaring that I am doing wrong here that I can improve on? Would a copper manifold help that much? Is my Batch sparge style wrong? Would a higher mash temp impact me that much?

Any insight here would be appreciated. I have thought my beer has been decent, but really bummed about not hitting targets during the brew process.
 
Once I saw it running clean, I opened the spiggot and let her rip.

This is not a professional opinion, but in my estimation, this is your problem. If you collect your runnings too fast and depending on how you have your SS hose oriented, this can create channeling which won't let the grains get rinsed adequately. Next time, keep it slow (around a quart a minute or so) and RDWHAHB while you wait. This very thing is what fixed my efficiency problems. :mug:

EDIT: Fixed a couple typos, been drinking while I brew.
 
Several thoughts:

I wouldn't add all your mash water at once. Save a little for temp adjustments. You may need to add cold water if your temp is too high. 155 isn't high enough to ruin your efficiency, but it will make your wort a little less fermentable, which isn't the worst thing in the world. Add a little table sugar and you may be where you wanted to be all along.

200 is too hot for sparge water. Hotter water will dissolve a little more sugar (very little, if people smarter than me are to be trusted), but much over 170 will extract unwanted harsh tannins from the grain.

The biggest factor in efficiency is the quality of the crush. If you buy from your LHBS, have them run it twice. Better yet, go to braukaiser.com and read everything on efficiency and malt conditioning, then start milling your own. I have a $30 hand-crank corona mill and I use a $1.99 sink strainer instead of a braid and get 75% efficiency.

65% efficiency isn't terrible. Jamil Z shoots for 70% , because he says that produces the best beer on his system. As long as you are consistent and adjust your recipe accordingly, you'll be fine. The difference between 65% and 80% (5Gal, 1.060 OG) is only a couple pounds of base malt anyway.
 
Good points above, my questions would center on water source, mash pH, and conversion.

What is your water source? Do you know how to measure pH ?

Do you check the mash for conversion using a starch test? Or, do you just figure that 60-90 minutes ought to get you there?

I had poor conversion when I first started all-grain, because I was using really hard tap water, and I wasn't able to figure out why at first. It wasn't until I started checking the mash pH that I figured out what was going on.

Good luck with it.
 
When I put your grainbill (from the link - if that is what you used) into iBrewMaster I get 1.057 OG for 5.5 gallons and 1.063 for 5 gallons - with 70% efficiency plugged in. So, according to that program, you are getting about 70%???

Also - you said that when you added sparge water your mash temp was 160-170, depending on where the thermometer was....... that makes me wonder if your 155 degree mash temperature could have been off by 5-10 degrees "depending on where the thermometer was." If parts of your mash were 160+ . . . . .that could have caused efficiency problems. are you sure your entire (or close to it) mash was 155?

I also agree with all of the points above - good things to look at.
 
I disagree with several posts above. First, with batch sparging there is no benefit to draining slowly (other than avoiding stuck sparges). There is no channeling in batch sparging. 200 is not likely too hot for sparge water. Yes you can get tannin extraction above 170, but that is is the grain bed gets above 170 (and for a decent amount of time). I bet your grain bed was near 170. No worries there.

I agree that crush and water chemistry are great places to start. I had an efficiency problem due to low Ca in my water. Many have crush issues. Crush is easy to see. Check to make sure every husk is broken open. I think stirring the mash and going 75 minutes are both overkill. Most malts are modified well enough today that conversion is done well before an hour is up. I would input your water into Bru'N Water or something like that to see where your mash pH and other variables were and I would check what your crush looks like.
 
Also, when you add the sparge water, don't stir a little. Stir the crap out of it. That knocks all the sugars into solution.
 
Thanks for the insight above. I had read mixed reviews on how fast to drain the mash. In the past I used to go really slow, but that did not seem to do much either.

As for Water chemistry. This is something that I never tested. I just moved to a new town and never thought of testing water. Is there something I can buy to do this?

The 155 on the mash was pretty consistent no matter where I put the thermometer. I had a digital thermometer, and it wouldnt reach all the way to the bottom of the grain bed. It seemed to get around 155 when I went down as far as I could go, and then was a little cooler at the top of the water (about 150 or so). The 160-170 after sparging seemed dependent on how much grain was in various parts of the cooler. No where seemed to go above 170, so I don't think anything bad happened there.

I will try and stir much harder next time when I batch sparge. I was just worried about knocking the hose manifold around too much, hence the reason to convert to a copper pipe one.
 
Water chemistry can be real important if you're using tap water & doing all grain. Search here in HBT for how to get a Ward's Laboratory report on your water if you want to know what you're starting with.

At the very least, do some reading over at Kaiser's site: http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Troubleshooting_Brewhouse_Efficiency

If you get frustrated trying to work through all that & figure things out - just buy some Reverse Osmosis water at the supermarket & brew with that. You'll probably need to add a few minerals in small amounts - but it's easy enough. Search over in the Brewing Science tab for some of ajdelange's advice on how to build up your own water profile in the stickies.

Good luck with it.
 
The first thing that should be looked at is the grain crush, water quality, pH, drain time, etc are all secondary. Who crushed the grains? Have you used the mill before?

Here is how I crush and some information on what I look for in the crush. See this link to my My Brew Day Preparation

Cheers
 

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