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Tangy aftertaste

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HambonesBrews

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I have brewed and bottled 6 batches and every brew has the same tangy, slightly cidery aftertaste. Any suggestions to rid my beer of this? Could it be the water?
 
We need a LOT more infomation before we could even begin to help you. Recipes, process, how long you ferment for, at what temps, how long you bottle condition. Etc, etc.

We're good, but we're not brewing psychics. ;)
 
For instance, northernbrewers dead ringer extract kit, followed instructions to a t (http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/DeadRingerIPA.pdf). Primary for two weeks, secondary for ten days and bottle conditioned 2 weeks. Last bottle I drank had conditioned for 5 weeks (yes, me and my buds drank this whole batch in 3 weeks!). Aftertaste had subsided a little but still there. All have fermented around 72 degrees (maybe a little warm?). I have used a whirlfloc tablet and priming sugar for all of them, thinking maybe that has something to do with it. The beer is good so it's not really a problem but I'd like to get rid of that tang. You can see my progress at www.lukesbrews.blogspot.com. By the way Revvy, I have been on this site for about a year, brewing since April and you have cemented yourself as a legend in my mind! Cheers!
 
To Revvy, for instance...I brewed northern brewers dead ringer kit. Followed instructions to a t (http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/DeadRingerIPA.pdf)! Two weeks in primary, 10 days in secondary and two weeks in bottle. My last bottle was drank after 5 weeks of conditioning. Aftertaste had subsided but was still there. Fermented at 72 degrees, maybe a tad warm. Used whirlfloc and priming sugar on all batches, perhaps a contributor to the tang? The beer had been good so not a huge problem but would like to rid my brew of the aftertaste. You can see my progress at www.lukesbrews.blogspot.com. And Revvy, after a year on this site and brewing since April, you have cemented yourself as a legend in my mind!
 
I have brewed and bottled 6 batches and every brew has the same tangy, slightly cidery aftertaste. Any suggestions to rid my beer of this? Could it be the water?

Based on this small amount of info, my first two guesses would be:

1. oxidation
2. water profile
 
Well, if you introduce too much oxygen into your bottling process, you could get muted flavors. Malt and hop flavors would get canceled out and you could end up with dry/cidery flavors. The cidery flavor would be small at first (1-2 weeks in the bottle), but would grow over time.
 
Given the fact the after taste has lessened with conditioning, doesn't sound like oxidation would be the cause. How do I get a water profile. Brewing a dunkelweizen tomorrow, what is my best choice for water? Distilled, purified, etc?
 
Given the fact the after taste has lessened with conditioning, doesn't sound like oxidation would be the cause. How do I get a water profile. Brewing a dunkelweizen tomorrow, what is my best choice for water? Distilled, purified, etc?

I like to start with RO filtered water and then add what I need -a little bit of calcium chloride, phosphoric acid, and yeast nutrients at different stages of the brewing process.
 
Wow. That is over my head! I work with in filtration sales so I understand RO and water quality, however, wouldn't know when/why to add any chemicals. That based on the water profile? If yes, how do I capture my waters profile, other than a caricature ;)
 
Wow. Over my head! I understand RO and water quality but wouldn't know where/why to add chemicals to the brew. Is that based on the water profile? If yes, how do I capture that?
 
I thought I might be warm on the ferm temp. Is it better to keep it consistent at 72 or cool it down whenever possible to 66 (ice pack, wet towel and fan, etc) causing fluctuation in temp or keep it at the same temp, even if it is a bit on the high side?
 
Oh, and you can usually get the water profile of your tap water through the utility company that handles the local water supply.
 
I thought I might be warm on the ferm temp. Is it better to keep it consistent at 72 or cool it down whenever possible to 66 (ice pack, wet towel and fan, etc) causing fluctuation in temp or keep it at the same temp, even if it is a bit on the high side?

Cool whenever possible. Fluctuation are OK as long as they are not too extreme, but you do want to stay as close to the desired temperature as possible.
 
Oh, and you can usually get the water profile of your tap water through the utility company that handles the local water supply.

Some cities, like mine, have a downloadable water quality report with all the pertinent info right on the City website.
 
Check the fermentation range of the yeast. With the heat around here, my first batch (hefeweizen) came out a little odd tasting, but has settled down now after 3+ weeks.

Oddly, the bottles that fridge conditioned are worse than the ones that sat in the finished basement in the high 70's/low-80's for that whole time. Go figure... it was also something where I pitched the yeast way too warm as I didn't have enough time to wait.
 
I have been having this exact same problem. I'm not really sure how to describe the flavour, but my friends and I all agree that there is a residual sweetness on the finish. It's almost a sweet, tangy, cidery type of flavour. It's mild but it is definitely there. This has been the same across the board for every single brew I've made (IPA's, DIPA's, Hefe, etc).

For a little background info: I brew 5 gallon extract batches. I use bottled water. I ferment between 68 and 72 at the very highest. I am very cautious with oxidation while transfering to secondary or while bottling - never any spashing, etc. We wash, inspect and sanitize each bottle and cap.
 
I have been having this exact same problem. I'm not really sure how to describe the flavour, but my friends and I all agree that there is a residual sweetness on the finish. It's almost a sweet, tangy, cidery type of flavour. It's mild but it is definitely there. This has been the same across the board for every single brew I've made (IPA's, DIPA's, Hefe, etc).

For a little background info: I brew 5 gallon extract batches. I use bottled water. I ferment between 68 and 72 at the very highest. I am very cautious with oxidation while transfering to secondary or while bottling - never any spashing, etc. We wash, inspect and sanitize each bottle and cap.

What kind of extract do you use, and when do you add it to the wort?
 
Subscribing to this thread. I would love to hear the answer to this too. My brews thus far have been extract with steeping grains. I try to keep the fermentation temp between 68* and 72*, but have had a few spikes to 78*. I'm also careful with minimizing any splashing and I'm exceptionally anal about sanatizing. The only thing I could think of that was causing this for me was my water, which is bottled Zephyrhills spring water. I've got a belgian tripel kit from Brewer's Best bottle conditioning now, and the samples I've tasted had that same twang as in the rest of my beers.
 
Subscribing to this thread. I would love to hear the answer to this too. My brews thus far have been extract with steeping grains. I try to keep the fermentation temp between 68* and 72*, but have had a few spikes to 78*. I'm also careful with minimizing any splashing and I'm exceptionally anal about sanatizing. The only thing I could think of that was causing this for me was my water, which is bottled Zephyrhills spring water. I've got a belgian tripel kit from Brewer's Best bottle conditioning now, and the samples I've tasted had that same twang as in the rest of my beers.

It's more likely that it's aged/older extract and added at the beginning of the boil (just like the instructions say) so that it sort of "thickens" and carmelizes and gets twangy tasting.

To combat that, I'd not use the prepackaged kits and buy the ingredients fresh (a kit from AHS or northernbrewer.com is fine, as they package it up fresh when you order from bulk LME), and add the majority of the extract at the END of the boil, instead of the beginning. I'd also make sure the temperature of the fermentation never get above 72 degrees. It's hard in the summer, as most people don't have a 63 degree room to put their ales in, but it's really important!
 
Here's a description of the water I'm using:

Canadian springs, from Hillsburgh ON. 8mg sodium or 390ppm w/ 0.2 floride
 
Water profile is too easily blamed for simpler problems because, hey, it's easy to blame and not very well understood by most people.

But I should elaborate on what I meant by it being an acetaldehyde problem as a result of fermenting too hot.

I notice a lot of the people here are saying they ferment at 70-72°. I used to ferment at that temperature too (even lower, at 68°), and I had issues similar to what's being described.

Now, those aren't necessarily bad temps, though maybe a little warm. IF the temperatures being measured are of the actual wort during fermentation. When people say that you should ferment something at 70°, they are not talking about the ambient temperature of the room, but I get a feeling that most of the people here ARE. Since the yeast generate a TON of heat at the height of activity, a 70° room can mean an 80° fermentation, *precisely* during the time that is so critical to flavor development. And 80° is waaaay too hot for all but a few beers.

Temperature control is without a doubt the single best investment you can make in your beer, bar none. $75 on a chest freezer and temperature controller will have such a positive effect on your beers, that it's almost beyond comprehension until you see for yourself. Stick it in the garage, or even outdoors if you must... just FIND A WAY. If tomorrow I was suddenly forced to ferment my beers at room temperature, knowing what I know now, I would pretty much stop brewing, except for perhaps a big batch of saison a few times a year.
 
emjay said:
Water profile is too easily blamed for simpler problems because, hey, it's easy to blame and not very well understood by most people.

But I should elaborate on what I meant by it being an acetaldehyde problem as a result of fermenting too hot.

I notice a lot of the people here are saying they ferment at 70-72°. I used to ferment at that temperature too (even lower, at 68°), and I had issues similar to what's being described.

Now, those aren't necessarily bad temps, though maybe a little warm. IF the temperatures being measured are of the actual wort during fermentation. When people say that you should ferment something at 70°, they are not talking about the ambient temperature of the room, but I get a feeling that most of the people here ARE. Since the yeast generate a TON of heat at the height of activity, a 70° room can mean an 80° fermentation, *precisely* during the time that is so critical to flavor development. And 80° is waaaay too hot for all but a few beers.

Temperature control is without a doubt the single best investment you can make in your beer, bar none. $75 on a chest freezer and temperature controller will have such a positive effect on your beers, that it's almost beyond comprehension until you see for yourself. Stick it in the garage, or even outdoors if you must... just FIND A WAY. If tomorrow I was suddenly forced to ferment my beers at room temperature, knowing what I know now, I would pretty much stop brewing, except for perhaps a big batch of saison a few times a year.


Wow, I'm blown away. I didn't realize the internal temp would be so much higher than the ambient air. Is there a more precise way to measure this difference? Can anyone else confirm this? Is there any way to keep a thermometer in the wort while it ferments?

Also, in the absence of a chest freezer, what other options are there?
 
Wow, I'm blown away. I didn't realize the internal temp would be so much higher than the ambient air. Is there a more precise way to measure this difference? Can anyone else confirm this? Is there any way to keep a thermometer in the wort while it ferments?

Also, in the absence of a chest freezer, what other options are there?

Those "stick on" thermometers are fairly accurate, since fermentation is churning and moving the beer around, you can get a good idea of the beer's temperature.

I have a couple of things I do for temperature control. First, I live in a cool climate which helps! My basement is cool, so I have my fermenters down there right now. The ambient is 66, but I put the fermenters on the cold floor and the fermenters (both of them) are fermenting at 69 degrees. I usually ferment cooler, but I wanted this to be 68-69 degrees.

I also use coolers and make a water bath. Then I just drop a frozen water bottle or two into the water bath, and it keeps the temperature right where I want it, usually 63 degrees. I made a new lid for my Igloo cooler out of foam, to insulate it:

4189-DSCF0002.JPG


I also have room in my kegerator for things I want really cold, like for lagering or for crash cooling.

When we talk about "fermentation temperature", we are talking about the actual temperature of the beer, not the ambient. I've personally seen an active fermentation be a bit more than 10 degrees higher than ambient!
 
It's more likely that it's aged/older extract and added at the beginning of the boil (just like the instructions say) so that it sort of "thickens" and carmelizes and gets twangy tasting.

+1

In addition to the temp control comments, in a few past extract brews (that were heavy on LME) I noticed a flavor I can only describe as "twangy". And there's been talk on here about "extract twang". Considering that I've used the same water for other brews and haven't had the problem, other extract brews and haven't had the problem, and maintain temps in the 65 range for most of my brews, my assertion is that the extract wasn't as fresh as it should have been.
 
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