Talk to me about 3 gallon batches

[user 30639]

So for the new year, my brewing resolution was to simply brew more. To accomplish this, I've decided I want to switch from 5 gallon batches to 3 gallon batches. My reasoning is:

1. Smaller batches mean buying less ingredients which means less money per batching, meaning more money for more batches.
2. I'll go through beer faster and always have fresher beer on tap. My current setup is to bottle 1 - 2 gallons of each batch and keg the rest. But SWMBO doesn't really drink, so it takes a while to empty a keg
3. More beers available to enter competitions, something I've been wanting to do for a while.
4. I can do full boils, something I haven't been able to do on my apartment stove.
5. It's a good excuse to buy more equipment

Recipe formulation doesn't look to be too difficult. I use BrewPal for my software and it looks like I can scale back to 3 gallon batches without a problem in terms of grains and hops.

First question is yeast, I'm assuming using a Wyeast pack or White Labs package like normal is the way to go, and you don't have to use 3/4 or a pack or something like that?

How do you calculate how much water to start with? I've always done stovetop brewing and never do full boils. I always do 60 minute boils.

Been thinking about getting one of the 3.2 gallon Speidel tanks. Not enough headspace? I also noticed that the lid isn't set for an airlock. Could you drill a hole for one without cracking the plastic.

Anyone else do a lot of 3 gallon batches, anything else to know?

 

[RM-MN]

I do 2 1/2 gallon batches on my stove in a 5 gallon pot. Even with that big of a pot the full volume boil is tight, especially when the hot break wants to pile up. I am careful with the vigor of the boil, just a slow rolling boil gets me about 1/2 gallon boil off.

I rarely use a liquid yeast as not much is available locally and even then I don't like to pick one up as it's an extra stop that is out of my way so I mostly use dry yeast and will split a packet in half (estimated). Dry yeast can sit in my refrigerator unopened for many month and once opened I try to use it up within a month.

For a 2 1/2 gallon batch I start with 3 3/4 gallons in my 5 gallon pot and when I have the bag and stir in the grain it often comes pretty close to the top. I usually end up sparging to get my pre boil volume.

I've been fermenting these batches in the 6 1/2 gallon bucket, same as I would with a 5 gallon batch but no chance for a blow-off. I've recently bought a few 5 gallon buckets from Walmart to have some extra fermenters. The same lids fit either bucket so I can mix or match.

 

[user 30639]

I rarely use a liquid yeast as not much is available locally and even then I don't like to pick one up as it's an extra stop that is out of my way so I mostly use dry yeast and will split a packet in half (estimated). Dry yeast can sit in my refrigerator unopened for many month and once opened I try to use it up within a month.

I generally use dry yeast as well, Nottingham is pretty much my standard yeast for almost all my beers. Good idea on splitting the package. Thanks for the info!

 

[Oginme]

I do 10 liter batches (~2.5 gal) for the majority of my brews. I now use all liquid yeast. One packet is usually pretty just about the right size for most batches.

As for water calculations, I use BeerSmith and BIAB, so the calculation is pretty straight forward. I track the starting water, collected wort, post-boil volumes and fermentor volume and plug that back in to keep my profiles up to date. Generally, I start with about 15.5 liters, collect around 14 liters, boil off around 3 and transfer 10 to the fermentor, leaving about a liter behind.

 

[motleybrew]

As my time becomes more of a commodity now that I have a kid, smaller batches are becoming more of an appealing idea.

Smaller batch means less material needed on hand, less time overall, and easier handling of the process in general.

 

[wobdee]

I brew 2.5 gal batches and ferment in the 3.2 gal Speidel. I lose about a half gallon from trub and yeast cake so I configure my recipes at 3 gal. The Speidel works great and I don't use an air lock, just leave the lid on loosely. Never had a krausen overflow even with bigger beers in the 1.080 range.

Another fermenter you may want to look into is the Brew Demon 3 gal conical. I would of bought one but it won't fit in my mini fridge without modifying it.

 

[chikincoop]

I do three gallon batches a lot for the same reasons you mention. I got (2) 2.5 gallon kegs that I just rotate in my kegerator. If I want to experiment, I'll do a 5 gallon and split it. I just did a coffee stout, kegged half and have the other half sitting on bourbon cubes.

 

[d3track]

I like those sizes for experimenting, and biab is a nice technique for this size.

 

[TheHopfather]

My standard brew is 3 gal BIAB batches. I can do them on my stove top without any issues in a 6 gal pot (a 1.065 IPA was pushing the volume a little during the mash), works great.

I use BeerSmith and the BIAB profile to start. I ferment in 3.5 gal glass carboys and it really helps to take the time to measure / mark out the volumes on the sides of them, I like 1/2 gal increments. This way you can really dial in how much volume you are losing to trub/yeast. I'd also take the time to calculate your boil off rate, it is boring but totally worth it. Once you've got those numbers you can create an equipment profile in BeerSmith and really get yours volumes dialed in. BeerSmith is pretty spot on with my water volume calculations these days.

3 gal batches are perfect for me. 5 gal is just a lot of beer to go through. I've only been brewing about a year so the idea behind 3 gal was to brew more often. Plus I get bored easily, doing 3 gal means I can brew more styles more often. Doing BIAB I can knock out a 3 gal batch, from filtering the water to all cleaned up, in about 4 hours. I highly recommend it.

 

[TheHopfather]

I use both liquid and dry yeasts. With a dry yeast I just rehydrate and pitch an entire pack. According to Mr. Malty a 3 gal batch of a higher OG beer (1.050+) still requires a 1L starter with a liquid yeast. I've been doing 1L starters and haven't had any off flavors due to an over pitch.

 

[CUrchin]

2.5 to 3.5 gal stove top BIAB here using 5 gallon paint strainer bags. Hot break/boil over risk in my 5 gallon pot is probably the hairiest part of the process, but as long a you pay attention it seems to work out. Otherwise it goes great.

My only complaint is the price of yeast, especially liquid yeast. I should probably bank yeast, but I don't-

I ferment in 5 gallon food grade buckets from Lowes. You can get the grommets for the lids at Lowes also. Sure is cheaper than a Speidel.

 

[Malty_Dog]

I may scale back to more 3 gal batches as well. Want to brew a little more often and start experimenting more with my own recipes.

 

[McKnuckle]

~3 gallon batches are my standard as well. I either do BIAB in a 7 or 8 gallon kettle on the stovetop, or in warm weather I'll use my three tier standard setup with an 8 gallon HLT, 5 gallon cooler/MLT, and 8 gallon kettle.

Recipes work the same as for any other volume. "3" is just a number like 5, 6, or 10. The math still works.

For fermentation I either use a 6 gallon pail or a 3 gallon carboy. I have a 5 gallon Better Bottle too. One vial of liquid yeast is fine unless it's a lager or high gravity, in which case I'll grow a starter using the Brewer's Friend yeast calculator.

Packaging is usually a combination of Tap-a-Draft PET bottles and standard 12 oz'ers. If I'm brewing a recipe I know I like, I will scale up to 5 gallons and package in one of my two corney kegs.

 

[Calichusetts]

3.5 gallons all day. I'd recommend a 8 gallon tall boy/megapot but to be honest. The quality is quite sh!tty. I'm in the process of returning two and trying elsewhere. Nonetheless, the taller profile makes it fit almost perfect on my induction's largest element.

8 gallons means no worries of boilovers, which is just amazing for me, especially with a wife that isn't too thrilled with my indoor brewing.

With 3.5 gallons, you can secondary perfectly in a 3 gallon keg or carboy if you are oaking or need room in the primary. 3.5 gallons in a 5 gallon carboy or keg also means no real worries about blowoff either.

I like to use spring water and poland spring sells 2.5 gallon jugs which is basically perfect for these batches.

Boils fine. I get up to a boil in about 20 minutes max. I uncover the lid the last ten to monitor the hot break.

Finally, I converted a 5 gallon kettle into my mash tun. Fits snuggly in my oven to hold temps perfectly.

 

[spbrhs07]

I recently began experimenting with mini batches as well. On Monday, I did my first and got a tough lesson on head space. I'm still cleaning beer off the ceiling...

1 gallon of wort in a 1 gallon glass jug = bad idea

 

[Bryan_85]

I make 2-3 gallon BIAB batches. I have 2 brewdemon conical fermenters. What I like about it is that I can very easily transfer from one to another just by turning a tap. Unfortunately the screw-on cap isn't air tight and the airlock hole seems to be an unconventional size.

One idea that I had recently was to bottle directly out of the primary using these. In the past I haven't done this because I was concerned that adding the priming sugar would rouse too much yeast (the yeast settle into the bottom of the conical - which is above the tap). But perhaps that's an unwarranted fear? Either way, my newest idea is to use carbonating tablets so that I can avoid adding the priming sugar to the wort. If that works, then I've completely avoided all transfers after pitching yeast (except for when I'd want to secondary, of course). Seems like this would reduce oxidation.

 

[sumbrewindude]

3gal brewer here also.

Dry yeast I use a half package. Wet yeast I direct pitch the whole works without a starter.

Pot size is a 6.5gal Concord, kind of wish I had gone to an 8gal but the 6.5 is more than enough for full volume boils, I don't do BIAB though - I use a 5gal cooler and a paintstrainer bag, so I guess it'd be a BIABIAC. Average boil off is about a gal.

I usually use either a 4gal watercooler bottle (PET) as a carboy for dry yeasts, or a 5gal watercooler bottle (PET) for liquid yeast - I like the extra headspace to deal with blowoffs.

Eventually I want to get some 5gal kegs to use a fermenters; stainless, no-chill, pressure transfer, and eventually pressure fermenting. Bonus is I'll have a couple extra kegs if needed!

Totally happy with 3gal batches - I thought about going to 5gal, but I find 3gal batches sometimes get long and I'm swapping it out for new beer.

 

[jbaysurfer]

Alternate thread titles:

3G Brewers UNITE!
Tired of the persecution? Brew 3G batches with me!
Large Batch Bullies, step off!
1G brewers: you're just jealous!
I'm very unique, here's a thread for all the unique folk like me!
Mods, can we get a sub-forum for 3G recipes?

Just messin'- brew what makes ya happy!

 

[spbrhs07]

1G brewers: you're just jealous!/QUOTE]


Hey, I only do 1G for experiments!

 

[wobdee]

So when you guys make up your recipes for your 3 gal batches do you account for trub and yeast cake loss? I make 3 gal of wort but lose close to 1/2 gal due to the yeast cake and end up with 2.5 gal in my keg which is what my keg sizes are anyways. I've been trying to cut that loss down but haven't come up with anything that works yet.

 

[Calichusetts]

So when you guys make up your recipes for your 3 gal batches do you account for trub and yeast cake loss? I make 3 gal of wort but lose close to 1/2 gal due to the yeast cake and end up with 2.5 gal in my keg which is what my keg sizes are anyways. I've been trying to cut that loss down but haven't come up with anything that works yet.

I've getting close to figuring out my volumes to get exactly 3 gallons post-fermentation. Right now I kill the burner on my kettle with 3.6 gallons. After cooling, removing hop debris, sample/hydrometer, fermentation, trub loss, dry hop loss...I'm getting almost exactly 3 gallons.

 

[TheHopfather]

I'm fermenting mostly in 3.5 gal carboys. With trub loss I usually end up with 2.5+ gal of finished beer. Works out to 24 to 30 bottles a batch, I'm happy with that.

 

[TheHopfather]

The key is to just brew more often. I've current got 4 x 3 gal carboys aging in my basement and I'm brewing batch #5 tonight. 15-ish gal sounds good to me, more styles to drink.

 

[beersk]

Kegs make great fermenters for smaller batches. I brew 4 gallon batches, ferment in 5 gallon kegs, close transfer to serving keg.
The bad thing about brewing smaller batches more often is having enough keg space. I'm trying to brew about every week right now, but my kegs are quickly filling up and they take time to carbonate and condition. Might need to take a week off here and there. I don't just want to give all my beer away either.

 

[72hw]

Another 2.5 gallon BIAB brewer here. I like the flexibility of smaller batches as it allows me to use the 3 gallon plastic Better Bottles that fit perfectly side by side in a mini fridge. I control the fermentation using an STC1000 and a reptile heater - works awesome!

I use Brewers Friend for recipe formulation and Priceless Calculator for all the water and temp estimations, etc.. Works great for me for the most part, only rough spot is when I hit a really good batch and wish I had 5 gallons of it in the keg!

EDIT: Looking back at the OP, I'm not sure I agree about smaller batches costing less. Infact I believe it to be just the opposite, purchasing base malt by the pound instead of by the sack is at least 3x more in many cases so I am working on a storage system for my garage. Luckily I am close enough to MoreBeer to do the In Store Pickup thing. By buying base malt in 50# sacks, hops by the pound and slanting/banking yeast I hope to slash my per batch cost by 60% eventually!

 

[carlk47]

I've recently started doing 2.5 - 2.75 gal batches as a way to experiment more and have more variety on tap. During these cold months we don't consume beer as fast so smaller batches make sure my kegs aren't sitting too long.

Once the warmer weather kicks in its all bets off. I know I'll need to brew up some larger 5 gal batches of blonde ale or some crowd pleasing brew! Will probably continue doing smaller batches at the same time though. Gotta keep the creative juices flowing.

 

[loeks]

Been thinking about getting one of the 3.2 gallon Speidel tanks. Not enough headspace? I also noticed that the lid isn't set for an airlock. Could you drill a hole for one without cracking the plastic.

Anyone else do a lot of 3 gallon batches, anything else to know?

I have that exact tank that I have been using as my main fermenter for about the last year or so. The lid happens to have a little circle right in the middle of it; I perforated along that circle with a utility knife and used a screw driver to punch the circle out, jammed a bung from an old gallon bucket fermenter in there, and it was the perfect size for a airlock or blowoff tube.

I have also used it as a bottling bucket, and that worked well.

Only issue that I have, is that my second to last batch got infected, and my first thought as to why is that it's plastic and may have gotten some nasties in there. I'm debating about using it to bottle my current batch (which is in a glass carboy) now.

Anywho, I say get it. It's a great product for 2.5 to just under 3 gal. batches.

 

[phyllobeddo]

Here's my process....

I generally make 2.5 gallon batches, all grain, BIAB. I will brew an occasional five gallon batch, if I like the recipe enough. I got a cereal killer mill for Christmas, and I used a credit card to set my crush. My efficiency went from the 60s to the 80s with the last two batches that I milled myself. I have a 10 gallon mash tun (Rubbermaid) and a voile curtain that I mash with/in. I start with 4 gallons of water. I mash in with 3 gallons. I "sparge" with one gallon of 170 degree water. I squeeze the bag and let it drip as well. I boil either on the stove with a 22 quart pot or in my aluminium turkey pot with propane. I have three, 3 gallon Better Bottles. I dump everything in after the boil. I don't filter at all, other than using muslin bags for the hop additions. My fermentation chamber is a wine fridge with the temp set at 65. The fermometer strips show 62 when there is no active fermentation. I do need to get a better control on temp, so I bought parts to build a STC-1000 temperature controller. I hope to complete that project this weekend, but I doubt it. I've been able to brew for the past four weekends straight because I got up at 5A or 5:30A and basically complete brewday before the family got up. I have four kegs (two 5 gallon and two 2.5 gallon). I don't like to bottle, but if I keep up this pace, I will need to. I like doing 2.5 gallon batches for the variety, and for testing out new recipes. If I don't like something new, then I only need to drink 2.5 gallons of it and not 5. Question?

 

[joe_four_strings]

I do 3 gal batches. Extract on my stovetop at the moment. just finished converting a minifridge into a ferm chamber, and my fermenter is a 3 gal bucket with an air lock. would like to get into BIAB soon.

 

[C-Rider]

I do 2 gallon batches and wind up w/about 1.75 gal. in the bottling bucket which gives me 3 six packs.
I created a spread sheet for water loss and another for temp for each grain weight. This helps in planning how much water to use and how m uch heat I loose during mash.
I do BIAB in a 5 gallon cooler and ferment in 2 gallon plastic buckets from HD.
I use dry yeast and have been using about 2/3 of a pack for each brew and throwing the rest away. Not good.
So I now do two similar brews at the same time and each gets 1/2 a pack of the yeast
Here is an old video showing my methods before I moved up to the 3 six pack version

 

[Cyclman]

I also do 2.5G BIAB stovetop, fits great in 3 gallon carboys.

 

[TheHappyHopper]

I have been brewing 5 gallon partial mashes lately using my Mini Mash Tun. I can mash about 5 pounds of grain, so it would be perfect for doing 2-3 gallon all-grain batches, depending on your grain bill.

The time and money savings vs. doing a 5 gallon batch would be pretty minimal, especially if you still have to buy yeast...but you have the huge benefit of being able to brew more often and testing out more recipes.

 

[joe_four_strings]

How big of a kettle and bag would I need to do 2.5 or 3 gal BIAB?

 

[carlk47]

How big of a kettle and bag would I need to do 2.5 or 3 gal BIAB?

It's typically recommended for BIAB to get a kettle twice the size of the batch size. So a 5-6 gal pot would work great!

 

[carlk47]

Double post

 

[chickypad]

I love doing 3 gal batches (I plan for 3 gal post boil, 2.5 finished in the keg). I mash in my old 5 gal pot but have to do a small sparge as I can't quite fit a full volume mash. I use a preheated oven for mash temp control. As far as liquid yeast one pack should usually be enough if it's fresh, but I always feel better doing a starter. What I do is a make a double size then pitch half and harvest half. For the average 3 gal ale it usually works out to about a 1.7-1.8 L starter, giving 100-150 billion cells to pitch and the same amount to bank. I much prefer it over washing yeast post fermentation.

 

[estresipsabeer]

How big of a kettle and bag would I need to do 2.5 or 3 gal BIAB?

I do 2.5 gal BIAB on my stovetop and use a 6 gallon kettle. Haven't yet had any boil over or volume issues. Also, I can fit the 6 gallon kettle into my oven for the mash which is convenient.

For the bag, I have a 24" x 24" bag.

 

[loeks]

I have been brewing 5 gallon partial mashes lately using my Mini Mash Tun. I can mash about 5 pounds of grain, so it would be perfect for doing 2-3 gallon all-grain batches, depending on your grain bill.

The time and money savings vs. doing a 5 gallon batch would be pretty minimal, especially if you still have to buy yeast...but you have the huge benefit of being able to brew more often and testing out more recipes.

That is really cool! I do BIAB now, and that looks like a relatively easy way to switch to AG.

 

[dudash02]

I just started with 3 gallon batches and was wondering I put the whole packet of dry yeast into my fermentor, now I read on this post about doing half the packet Im assuming nothing bad will happen but im wondering is there any downfall to using ths whole packet.?

 

[RM-MN]

I just started with 3 gallon batches and was wondering I put the whole packet of dry yeast into my fermentor, now I read on this post about doing half the packet Im assuming nothing bad will happen but im wondering is there any downfall to using ths whole packet.?

There is very little downfall for that amount of yeast. Here's an experiment that a guy did with different pitching rates. Note that for the overpitch he used about 5 times the recommended while you are using less than 2 times.

http://sciencebrewer.com/2012/03/02/pitching-rate-experiment-part-deux-results/