Next will be no chill, no boil, no fermentation? You could just dump a bunch of coors light into a bottling bucket, bottle it up, and be drinking it that night.
I calculated the hop utilization exactly as I would boiling the whole brew.... This may not be accurate, but tasting the wort, I would say that it's pretty close. It's worth noting that I used Crystal leaf hops for my flavor and aroma hops, an ounce and a half total, and the hop bags remained in the wort until I racked to the fermenter. My "bittering addition", improbably was Willamette, of which I used a full ounce. Brew size, again was 2.5 gallons, so it's very generously hopped at one ounce per gallon total.
H.W.
the brulosophy dudes did this a couple months ago
http://brulosophy.com/2015/11/12/short-shoddy-my-1-hour-all-grain-brew-day/
Well actually...
Not really, that wort was boiled 15min, not no-boiled. And it was consumed that very same night; so even of it had been no-boil, there was no time to see if it would sour unwantedly.
Are you testing to see if conversion is complete? Or is the 30 minutes experiential in nature?
It's only wasted time and ingredients if owly deems it that way after reaping his rewards; of course, we are all allowed to form our own opinions.
Arguments about linguistics here are pointless, we will reach our own conclusions based on our own inclinations.
I didn't start this thread to start an argument, though I knew it would get the old ladies in a tizzy, and the usual suspects have not disappointed with the expected comments My goal really was to share a methodology I am experimenting with that incorporates non-original ideas and methods to ultimately I hope achieve a good all grain beer brewed in a sub one hour brew session.
Everybody knows my forte is operating completely outside the box.
H.W.
I always test for conversion with short mashes. I've mashed all the way down to 10 minutes and gotten complete conversion with a fine grist, though with lower fermentability resulting in higher FG and more body, and about 1/2% lower abv if I recall correctly.
H.W.
I like this experiment and the idea of trying to do things in an unconventional manner. I also like the way this post has stirred up the cyber-pot.
My question to the OP: Why try to raise the temperature of the main pot of wort with the smaller amount of wort boiled with hops? Couldn't you have just put the main pot on the stove and raised its temperature while you were boiling the smaller amount? When the main pot reached 165-170, you could just shut it down, then combine the two pots later and set aside to chill overnight? I'm thinking doing what I suggest would shave a few minutes off your brew time?
FROM THE ORIGINAL POST:
"The decoction went back into the wort, which raised the wort only to about 155 again, so I put the total back on the stove top and raised the temp to 165 (with the whirlpool hops in it)."
Thanks again for posting.![]()
How are you testing for conversion?
Primarily by taking refractometer samples and watching for gravity to plateau. I then do an iodine test for confirmation. I won't bother with the iodine on my next fast brew, as it will have AG300 in the fermenter.
H.W.
This brew took off like gangbusters, and is fermenting vigorously. The pitch was a very heavy top crop pitch from a previous brew, and fermentation was evident within a couple of hours. Fermentation is at the "boiling stage" which those who ferment in clear fermenters will understand. What is different is that the trub layer appears to be heavier material and very little of it is actually up in circulation compared to a typical ferment where there is no visible layer, just a muddy boiling mass of wort and trub. I'm concerned about weather it will pack down in a solid compacted layer as it should post fermentation. I just top cropped yeast from it a few minutes ago. Flavor of the wort is good, and clarity of the upper zone when I poured it into the fermenter was excellent, indicating that if nothing else, the whirlfloc I put in with the hop decoction did it's job. (Oops I used that word again ;-)
H.W.
Gotcha. I hear the iodine is pretty much a waste of time as it can produce false negatives.
What do you mean by inline mashing?
(Btw see how easy it is to clear up something you don't quite understand?)
I wonder if the trub difference has to do with the absence of the hot break, also if the finished product will contain more protein than it would had it been boiled.
I brewed 5 gallons of Rye Pale, stove top BIAB, 30 minute partial boil, in 3hrs25 yesterday. Are people mad at me too?
At least I mashed for an hour, put down your pitchforks please.
Inline Mash is a term I coined to describe my method of doing very short mashes. It's all done on the stove top. The strike water is hot water from the tap which is approximately 130F before the grain is added. At that point the stove is put on high, and the mash is stirred regularly. When it reaches 145F, the heat is turned down for a slow temp increase to 155. The rate of increase governs the actual "mash time", which is the time between 145 and 155, which is the actual mash. I call it "inline" because is conducted inline with the heating as opposed to a typical simple infusion mash, step mash, or decoction mash. It's a step mash without the steps, everything happens in an inline progression, hence the name.
H.W.