Switch Suggestion

[BLANK1911]

Hi All,

I am collecting parts to make my control panel that will be based off of this PJ diagram. I have all parts other than the switch that switches power between the kettle and the HLT. The diagram suggests Mauser part number 633-8333-RO for this switch. I can not find it on their site. I believe this should be a 25A center off switch but I am a little confused. Everything I can find is rated at 20 A at 120V and 10A at 240. Can anyone give a suggestion on a switch that I can safely use in this application.

Thanks

 

[BLANK1911]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-20-Amp-Double-Pole-Toggle-Switch-GSW-16/100210997

Here is an example of what I am finding.

 

[jwelch1103]

I built a somewhat similar system based on a diagram by PJ and used a switch from Grainger, stock #2tpf8.
Google Grainger 2tpf8 and it should be the first hit. See if that will work for you.

 

[BLANK1911]

Nice, thanks. So you used that for switching the high currant load without a contractor?

 

[jwelch1103]

Yes, directly wired to SSRs. My RIMS is wired for 120v though. It is a toggle switch, not sure if that matters to you. When I get a chance I'll post the schematic I followed.

 

[jwelch1103]

Here is a link to see the schematic PJ provided that I used.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/another-rims-wiring-diagram-help-please-431358/
Hope this helps. Scroll down towards the end to see it.

 

[BLANK1911]

Jwelch, thanks for the info... The question is now if a 10 amp rating at 250 volts is sufficient for a 30 amp system at 240 volts

 

[jsguitar]

The NKK S823 toggle would be a good replacement for this switch. It is rated for 30 amps at 125/250v. Here is a link http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/S823/360-2098-ND/1007155. There is a link there to the data sheet that gives you all the info. For some reason Digikey's description only gives the 125v rating but the NKK data sheet shows the 240v rating.

Another option is the Bryant 3025I which is also a 30amp, 240v DPDT that can be found reasonably on eBay here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3025I-Bryant-30A-DPDT-AC-Switch-Maintained-120-277V-NIB-/151091864826

IMHO, the Bryant would be a bit easier to wire as it has larger terminals and more space. The NKK is very compact though if you need that.

 

[BLANK1911]

Awesome! Another question if someone can answer. Based on my diagram is there a way to tell how many amps will actually be switched by this switch