Survey: Whats your brew pot size and do you use all of it.

[mrbeachroach]

Good morning friends.

After much research I believe today I will finally splurge and buy my new brew pot. Currently I'm only using it 4-5 gallon pot


My question is for BIAB, i'm debating between a 15, 20, and 25 gallon pot.

For all of you out there that make large batches do you find that you always use the capacity of your pot?

How much does it cost to make these big batches?

In reality with storage space and money to brew larger batches do you find yourself only using half the size you have or always maxing out?

The reason I ask is I want to get the best quality pot within my budget and would like to only have to buy one and have what I need.

And a final thought. If there is any other upgrades you would recommend I would love to know about them. I'm already planning on having a thermometer and valve for the liquid.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I would cancel the kettle mounted thermometer and use a handheld thermometer. Jmo

What size batches are you looking to brew consistently?

The cost of ingredients varies widely depending on your source and quantity you are buying.

Buying grain by the sack, hops by the pound, and recycling yeast it can be very inexpensive compared to buying ingredients in an expensive metro area at a boutique type store.

What is your heat source and cooling source for these larger batches?

 

[mrbeachroach]

I would cancel the kettle mounted thermometer and use a handheld thermometer. Jmo

What size batches are you looking to brew consistently?

The cost of ingredients varies widely depending on your source and quantity you are buying.

Buying grain by the sack, hops by the pound, and recycling yeast it can be very inexpensive compared to buying ingredients in an expensive metro area at a boutique type store.

What is your heat source and cooling source for these larger batches?

I'm thinking of constantly kicking it up to 10 to 15 gallon batches and I currently have a wort chiller made out of copper that hooks into the water hose.

How would you go about recycling yeast?

 

[jalc6927]

I use a 20 gallon so I can brew 10 gallon batches it’s part of the brew boss system which is an automated electric system

The one thing is that it’s heavy

Also I’ve had no issues with thermometer that was integrated in my prior kettle

 

[JohnSand]

I use a "15 gallon" kettle that probably is 16, the 15 mark is not at the rim. I have no trouble doing 10 gallon batches in it, though I am careful about boil-overs. Mine has a thermometer and a valve, which is essential. The pot is heavy, so I fill it in place on the burner, and empty it through the valve. When brewing ten gallons, I always split it between yeasts or other changes, I have yet to brew ten gallons of one style. I don't think I would want to brew more, as it takes about two months to drink ten gallons.

 

[MaxStout]

For 5 gal batches I use a 15 gal kettle, which provides enough space for even high-gravity brews. I also have a 20 gal kettle for 10-12 gallon batches. In that larger kettle, a 10 gal high-gravity brew will probably be pushing the limits, but it's achievable. You could always hold back some of the strike water and do a pour-over sparge if the volume would otherwise be too great for your kettle.

Decide what size batches you want to make and use one of the online mash volume calculators to determine the needed kettle size based on the highest gravity beer you expect to brew. Keep in mind that if you go big, and later want to brew a smaller (i.e., 5 gal.) batch, your boiloff rate will be higher than in a smaller kettle, due to the increased surface area of wort in that bigger kettle. Be sure to adjust your water volumes accordingly.

 

[soccerdad]

I am reminded of the guy who declared, "I have 12 inches, but I don't use it as a rule."

do you find yourself only using half the size you have

I prefer to brew indoors and usually use a 9 G kettle that fits under the range hood. I can easily max it out with a 5 G batch .. moreso on the mash side than the boil side. I have a 16 G kettle that will do 10 gallon batches outdoors. Again, maxes the grain bill for mashing, but not boiling.

Ps .. I like my built in thermo with 2 inch probe, but I would guess a thermopen is more accurate. I'm kinda lazy and the handheld means being more attentive.

 

[TANSTAAFB]

I just recently upgraded to a 20g Kegco kettle for indoor BIAB w/ a 3500w induction cooktop. Love it!

I tend to brew 7-12 gallon batches and it's perfect for that size. I tried a 12g for the first time last weekend and was afraid I'd max out the capacity so held back a few gallons to rinse sparge the grains. I had plenty of room and will go to full volume mash as it was a PITA to try to rinse the grains. Too heavy and unwieldy with that size grain bill. I like having the thermometer but you do have to be careful with your bag. Wilser already fixed one tear for me! I think a very short, stubby thermowell and a digital thermometer would be better and will likely look to make that change in my setup on the near future. That will also allow for some PID control.

 

[TANSTAAFB]

Oh, and I love the 12v little tan pump! My Chugger is collecting dust in the closet. I will also upgrade to a Jaded chiller and just plumb my O2 stone inline instead of off my plate chiller. I think the Chugger and plate chiller (not to mention the several kettles I purchased along the way that don't really work for what I'm doing [emoji58]) are going up on the for sale list!

 

[TomVA]

I make 5 gal. batches with full water BIAB mashing in an 8 gal pot. Allowing for 0.5 gal. of grain absorption (I squeeze the dickens out of the bag) and 1.0 gal. for boil-off, I start with 6.5 gal. of strike water at room temperature. Heating to mash temperature expands this to about 6.65 gals, and 10 lbs of grain brings it to about 7.5 gal. Yes I am near the top of the pot, but with careful handling I manage not to spill. With the lid on, this 8 gal. pot just fits into my oven which I hold at 150-155°F, so I usually maintain my mash temperature +- 1°F. After pulling the grain bag I have plenty of head space for the boil and have never boiled over.

 

[Murphys_Law]

I have a Spike 10G kettle for BIAB 5.5 (in fermenter) batches. If I do a high gravity beer I will just pour some water over my grain bag to "make up" the boil water volume. Works well for me. What I like about the 10G is the head space is minimized so I have pretty solid mash temp control.

 

[chris000]

I've upgraded to a 20 gal. Blichmann, which is perfect to make 2 kegs of finished beer. If I was to switch back to one serving keg as target, it would be advisable to lower the temperature probe (or get a smaller kettle).
Thermometer and sight glass on a kettle are two very nice things you only learn to appreciate once you have 'em and I would not buy a kettle without.
with respect to bag or basket, anything (thermometer, valves, pick up tubes, etc.) that sticks in is not that great. currently I'm tinkering around with a hopblock, which is another piece taking up room inside. once I figure out my final interior of this kettle, I'm going to build a customized basket

 

[Roadie]

I have 20 gallon kettles but only ever brew 5 gallon batches so never use the full capacity. I like having the large HLT but the others could be smaller. I bought based on the largest size batch I could ever see myself brewing and ignored the small incremental cost increase.

 

[pshankstar]

I have a 20 gallon SS Brewtech Kettle (22.9 gallons to the rim). I use a Wilser bag and can easily to 10 gallon batches (10 gallons into kegs). I agree with Wilser to not bother with a temperature probe. I use a hand held one to check temps and don't have to worry about the bag getting caught when raising it. The SS Brewtech comes with the 3-piece ball valve and dip tube with a trub damn that works out nicely! I have been very happy with it and would recommend them to everyone! Just make sure you have a large enough immersion chiller or plate chiller if you are doing 10+ gallon batches. I have a 50ft 1/2inch copper immersion chiller from NorCal that works great! Lastly for BIAB, go with Wilser! I have two bags, one for my old keggle and one for the SS Brewtech kettle. Wilser makes great bags!

I buy my hops by the pound. A vacuum sealer and a chest freezer will be your best friend for hop storage. Hops are much cheaper when you can buy them in bulk. I also buy my base grains by the sack, it too is a lot cheaper that way. If you are part of a homebrew club you could go in on group buys and get the grains even cheaper. Our club meets at a local nano-brewery and the brewery allows us to order grains through them at their cost. So a 50# sack of 2-row is only $40 for me. I picked up frosting buckets from the local grocery store. They hold about 40# of frosting and smaller than 5 gallons. Clean them out really good, swing by Home Depot and pick up the gamma lids & rings and they fit on there. So for $7 and some elbow grease (cleaning them) you have a storage container that holds about 18# of grains.

 

[PsychoBiter]

Take a look at the kinds of beers you like to drink and how much you want to have on hand.
We have a 20 gallon kettle and make a lot of bigger beers, so we can only make 5 gallon batches of those (sometime have to hold back some water and sparge since we run out of room on really big ones), but can make 10 gallons of a smaller beer as well. We make a lot of 5 gallon batches of "medium beers" too with room to spare. 20 is a pretty good size for what we do. With the bigger beers the sparging helps out with efficiency, so it works out.

We do full volume mashes.
Get a thermoworks, ditch the kettle thermometer.

 

[mrbeachroach]

Take a look at the kinds of beers you like to drink and how much you want to have on hand.
We have a 20 gallon kettle and make a lot of bigger beers, so we can only make 5 gallon batches of those (sometime have to hold back some water and sparge since we run out of room on really big ones), but can make 10 gallons of a smaller beer as well. We make a lot of 5 gallon batches of "medium beers" too with room to spare. 20 is a pretty good size for what we do. With the bigger beers the sparging helps out with efficiency, so it works out.

We do full volume mashes.
Get a thermoworks, ditch the kettle thermometer.

What kind of gravity are you pulling in the end abv? And why style beers. Russian imperials, double and triples?

How many pounds of grain for those high gravity 5 gallon. Batches?

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

I use a 20 gallon pot for 10 gallon batches and need all of the 20 gallons evertime..dont go lower if you plan on doing 10 gallons. Never had a risk of a boil over but I'm always within a couple inches of the rim regardless of the beer. I average 25# of grain

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

What kind of gravity are you pulling in the end abv? And why style beers. Russian imperials, double and triples?

How many pounds of grain for those high gravity 5 gallon. Batches?

I'd love to hear the grain bill the OP states doesn't fit in a 20 gallon pot.I cant imagine a grain bill that would overflow a 20 gallon pot for 10 gallon batches...all its doing is sitting there. You could push it right to the rim. Once you pull the bag theres endless room for the hotbreak

 

[PADave]

I have a Spike 10G kettle for BIAB 5.5 (in fermenter) batches. If I do a high gravity beer I will just pour some water over my grain bag to "make up" the boil water volume. Works well for me. What I like about the 10G is the head space is minimized so I have pretty solid mash temp control.

Same here. Spike kettles are top notch.

I wouldn't get a thermometer though, just something to get in the way. For BIAB, really only need an accurate temp reading for the mash, which I use a more accurate handheld thermo for. I drilled a small hole in the lid for my long stem dial thermo to go thru. Use this when the lid is on and heating up mash water, to keep an eye on to see when getting close. Also if the lid is on while cooling to watch temp. Then when bringing up to a boil, with the lid off, the thermo is clipped to the side, again, just to watch when getting close.

 

[mrbeachroach]

Same here. Spike kettles are top notch.

I wouldn't get a thermometer though, just something to get in the way. For BIAB, really only need an accurate temp reading for the mash, which I use a more accurate handheld thermo for. I drilled a small hole in the lid for my long stem dial thermo to go thru. Use this when the lid is on and heating up mash water, to keep an eye on to see when getting close. Also if the lid is on while cooling to watch temp. Then when bringing up to a boil, with the lid off, the thermo is clipped to the side, again, just to watch when getting close.

Very well done sir, do you have a picture of your lid and thermometer?

 

[PADave]

Very well done sir, do you have a picture of your lid and thermometer?

Nothing fancy, just a small hole for the stem to fit into.

I always double check my mash temp with a handheld.

 

[radwizard]

I've got a 15 G. I do 6 gallon batches with it. I can crank out double batches of Saison with it. I love the size and wouldn't wanna go bigger or smaller, for my brewing.

Mine had a Thermometer in the kettle. I took it out after my second brew on the kettle. I also use the hole in the lid trick....

 

[Murphys_Law]

I am going to go against the group and say I like my kettle thermometer although I largely ignore it during mash.

It’s a good indication of how close to boiling temps I am reaching and the wort temp during my cool down. It’s a small probe and I have never gotten a snag.

 

[Lefou]

You can never have enough thermometers - or hydrometers.
Over the last two years I've replaced one hydrometer and one thermometer.

One set of Proof & Tralle hydros (which are rarely, if ever, used for beer) and one triple scale.
Bought several thermometers. One adhesive strip (lost), one analog metal probe that came with the first kit, one floating thermometer for the mash, and one that came with my kettle. Also have a ThermoPen knock-off.
Wife bought one of her own because I tend to hide my brewing stuff because, like my tools, sh*t doesn't get put back where it came from after it gets "borrowed".

 

[sillbeer]

I don't do BIAB, but that definitely will make a difference on your kettle size.

My kettle is 30 gallons and I typically start with about 16 gallons pre-boil for 12-13 gallons final. I can do 20 gallon batches if I want but I don't really have a need.

 

[Lamrocks]

This last weekend I managed to do a no-sparge full volume 11 gallon batch in my 17 gallon kettle (it is a custom SS I found). 25lbs of grain barely fit with 13ish gallons of water. I had to cut down my boil to 30 min, which I do normally, to yield 11 gallons.View attachment 554864

 

[Craigmn]

I have a 10 gallon and a 20 gallon. I use the 10 for 5 gallon batches and the 20 for 10 but have never used the 20 for 5.

Having the capacity for 10 have pushed me to make more 10 gallon batches. As a brewer who likes making saison have 10 gallons is great because I split between clean and wild yeasts on most batches

 

[cyclonebeer]

Rule of thumb for BIAB is that your kettle should be twice the volume of your batch. I brew 10 gal and 5 gal batches. The kettle works fine for both. My suggestion would be to buy a kettle sized for the size of batches you think you might eventually want to brew. Buyers remorse lasts a long time. Sticker shock goes away quickly.

 

[FuzzyIguana]

I use an 18 qt pot for BIAB. I brew exclusively 2.5 gal batches - this size allows me to mash normal 1.040 grain bills all the way up to big beers.

 

[cegan09]

8.5 gallon here and hate it. I like making larger beers and i'm constantly near or at the top of the kettle (BIAB). I should have gone 10 gallon to start. Since I don't see myself ever doing more than 5 gallon batches I think i'll be upgrading to a 15 gallon this year.

 

[ODI3]

I have a 25g ebiab setup. I have one of the old wide megapots. Most of the time i make 10 gal 1.050 batches. I recommending not getting a thermostat installed. The thermostat will be in the way when stirring, may pole the bag and another thing to break. Imho the bigger the kettle the better. I can turn on my kettle and as long as i leave the lid cracked there is never a boilover. Also allows for 10 gal larger beers or 20 gal reg beers. (Monster grainbills tend to strain and rip the bags). Wider pot sizes allows for longer elements and allows immersion chiller to sit on bottom of kettle beside element instead of ontop of element.

Wider kettles increase boiloff, this is good and bad.

I use a bag and do not use a pump or recirculate. I do filter as wort is leaving kettle to minimise trub in fermenter so yeast is cleaner when bottom teub harvesting and the trub uses less volume in fermenter. I ferment in bayou classic 6 gal pots. I like the trub to hit the lid since the brown keausen sticks to stainless and makes top yeast harvesting exceptionally clean.

I only ever check the temp a few times, but if u want to constantly check, u can get a thermoworks thermometer with a changable ribbon type sensor and just leave it in while mashing. Although i think its always best to stir before taking a temp reading so the temp is homogenous throughout

 

[nymtber]

10gal pot for 5gal batches here.

Just brewed a 1.075 beer today, I think I could get up to 1.090 but that would be getting real close. MOST of my beers are <1.060 anyway, which leaves a ton of room.

If I brewed lot of high-gravity beers, I would have gone for a 15gal. I only do 5-gal batches and lower gravity, so 10gal was perfect.

 

[deadwolfbones]

I just recently upgraded to a 20g Kegco kettle for indoor BIAB w/ a 3500w induction cooktop. Love it!

What's the model of the induction cooktop and how much did it run you? Any issues maintaining steady heat? (I've had issues with induction cycling on and off, producing heat spikes.) Looks like a slick little setup!

 

[TANSTAAFB]

What's the model of the induction cooktop and how much did it run you? Any issues maintaining steady heat? (I've had issues with induction cycling on and off, producing heat spikes.) Looks like a slick little setup!

Thanks, I dig it! I don't remember the name, it's a brand I could not find ANY info on. As in zilch! It's obvious that they just rebrand other people's stuff, but that got me a nice price on eBay as I was the one taking the risk. That said, it looks very similar to the Avantco to me but I don't have a manual or anything. I'm really not sure about cycling or spikes. It has useless numbers (1-35 I think) and I can't max it out or it errors and I have to unplug it to reset. If I leave it at around 30 I don't have issues and it will maintain a very light rolling boil. I have to use a heat stick to help get to strike temp and boil or it takes forever. I have not been able to use it to maintain mash temps because if I leave it on even 4 or 5 the temps keep rising. I need to do some experiments to see if there are any settings that will just hold a temperature once I get it there.

 

[TANSTAAFB]

Quick update. I brewed a 6 gallon batch and it was sooooo easy in the 20 gallon kettle! Took about 30 minutes to get 8 gallons to mash temp with the heat stick. I skipped the pump and plate chiller and I appreciate how simple the day was. I'm definitely trading in the plate chiller for a Jaded Hydra or King Cobra. Mash temp was dropping so I set the induction cooktop to 6 and it brought temps back from 146 to 150ish fairly quickly. Left it on 4 and it seemed to hold nicely. Easy brew day allowed me to take care of bottling and kegging duties. I love the 20 gallon kettle. Works fine for normal batches and allows either bigger beers or bigger batches too [emoji482]

 

[johnstod]

I'm brewing in a 5gal stock pot doing 5 gal batches it's very full at the start and had to be topped up when it goes into my fv but saves a lot on space as I don't have much

 

[BobBailey]

I use a 14 gallon kettle and do 6 gallon batches. During the warmer months I do full volume boil BIAB and the rest of the year regular all grain and batch sparge. The kettle gives me some wiggle room with BIAB and the option to do 10 gallon batches regular all grain.

The kettle came with a thermometer which I removed so as not to rip the bag and never put it back in. I'm going to drill a hole for a dial thermometer with a 12" probe close to the center of the lid before resuming BIAB this summer.

 

[LostHopper]

10.5 gallon brew kettle
5.5 gallon batches (or less)
full volume BIAB
Best purchases for my biab brewing: Kettle, immersion chiller (JaDed),Wilser bag and grain mill.

 

[PrrCabin]

I started with a pos 5 gal pot. Then an 8 gal MegaPot and now a 15 gal MegaPot with ball valve.
To be honest go with the largest pot you can afford.
If I was to do it all over again. I would go with the 15 gal MegaPot.

I do BIAB and I can fit 20lbs of grain and water without issue.

So yes. I do use all of it.

Cabin

 

[PersonalBrewer]

I would go with the 15 gal MegaPot.

I am using a 15 gal megapot, calculates out to 15.6 actual. 7.5 gal batches are EZ. Did 9.5 gal batch by adding 3 gal of water post mash. Would have been 10.5 if I hadn't boiled off more than I anticipated. 24 lbs grain easy.

I say go 15 or 20.

Don't forget, 24 lbs of saturated grain will be a bit to handle if you're an old fart like me.