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Super Simple 15G Plastic Conical

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Question about the valve you guys are using on the bottom of the conical. I've seen some people with stainless butterfly and ball valve, but I was hoping to go a cheaper route and use pvc. I have heard that pvc is a bad idea in the mash tun, but how about on the fermentor? Here is one I was looking at.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/SVF-Stainle...628?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5aeda4cab4

When I priced this vs PVC valve at Lowes it wasn't that much more. Its so solid I'll be using it for the next 10 years at least. I did a bunch of reading and the PVC works fine because its not that much surface area touching your Beer plus you figure its at the bottom and by day 3 or for its going to be coated in thick trub. Oh and this will kick of debate probably but all the lines in your house are CPVC for what thats worth if tap water sits in it all day then??
 
PVC is bad in the mash tun because it starts to melt around 160-170, and so will get soft, deform and leach more. I used to use PVC for the bottom valves in my fermentor, but eventually replaced them with tri-clamps and stainless. I didn't get off flavors from them, but they had a lot of nooks and crannies that are hard to clean, and I was concerned that I'd get an infection from it one of these days.
 
I initially bought all the stuff to put a racking arm in mine but never installed it. I just pop the top and siphon out of it. One less defect on the smooth insides. Plus if its time to rack it the lid is coming off to clean it anyway.

There are several places that sell a big 1/2 ID threaded nut / bulkhead made from some non reactive plastic that you can use (yes this sparks debate on what is safe to touch the precious ) I just never got around to using it. Most of our hardware shares with biodiesel manufacturing and that was where I got mine. Duadiesle or buadiesl something like that on e bay. Also grainger and McMaster have similar but cost way more.

Thanks for the input, I would probably use a SS bulkhead so safe to touch wouldn't be a problem, something like this..http://www.stainlessbrewing.com/Compression-x-MPT-SS_p_92.html. If I were to attach a tri clamp female NPT to the outside of this and a racking cane on the inside (I want to be able to take gravity readings / rack without opening the lid so I can wash yeast) would I be able to rotate the racking cane with this kind of setup if I were going to place a 1/2 spigot on the tri clamp fitting? Also, to add...if there any bulkhead setup or other option that would limit the amount of "smoothness" on the inside of the conical? I know threads are the main enemy here for small crevices to grow bacteria but with proper sanitation are they really an issue?
 
I did have an infection once on my "second 5 gallon batch pulled from this 10gallon batch". I am using Poly Banjo fittings. When the trub is drained the ball valve will sneak some nasties into it which spoil inside there after a few days. This has worried me so much that I do not even trub drain anywhere. I just siphon off the top and avoid ball valves. Also having some issues with condensation from the lid dripping into the beer. My thermostat in my home is set to 71. Using Safale 05 mostly. Maybe it just generates alot of fermenting heat? I just dont like fhe idea of all the sweat even though I know I starsanned the crap ouf of it.
 
Has anyone played around with pressure fermenting? I read one user leak testing his conical at 30psi. I'm seriously considering this as I was saving for a brewhemoth for the pressure closed system idea.
 
Also I noticed that ruralking won't ship the 30 gallon tank UPS and want to charge $119 to ship it by carrier.

it looks like agrimart has these for $85 bucks, and $25 shipping or so. Is this the best deal now a days on these?

Plus if you buy the stand with it shipping goes up to $41 for the bunch.
 
It looks like on a 35 gallon tank, there is still some head space past the graduations. Do you guys think I could get away with, or has anyone tried, fermenting 31 Gallons in a 35 gallon tank? I am currently looking at the 40s, but the 35s are cheaper and already have legs on them.
 
So interesting thing I found on Rural King.

The 30 gallon tank won't ship by UPS and the FREESHIP code does not work.

HOWEVER,

If you go with the 35 gallon tank with legs built on, it does apply for UPS shipping AND you can use the free code and get the 35 gallon tank for $136.99 SHIPPED.

It looks like bottom is 2" so will need to get a reducer to get to my 1.5" fittings.

http://www.ruralking.com/ace-roto-mold-35-gallon-full-drain-inductor-set-ibfd35-set.html
 
Also I noticed that ruralking won't ship the 30 gallon tank UPS and want to charge $119 to ship it by carrier.

it looks like agrimart has these for $85 bucks, and $25 shipping or so. Is this the best deal now a days on these?

Plus if you buy the stand with it shipping goes up to $41 for the bunch.

check roto mold they ship ups and it was a good price when I baught mine.
 
I decided to go with the 35 gallon version. For the price and size its hard to beat that it has legs included.

Since it has a 2" bottom, would something like this work to get me to the 1.5" threaded tri-clover fitting I'm getting?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bushing-2-M...Steel-Pipe-Biodiesel-/280818225976#vi-content

p-17549.jpg

http://www.brewershardware.com/1-1.5-Tri-Clover-X-1.5-Male-NPT.html
 
-MG- said:
I decided to go with the 35 gallon version. For the price and size its hard to beat that it has legs included.

Since it has a 2" bottom, would something like this work to get me to the 1.5" threaded tri-clover fitting I'm getting?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bushing-2-Male-x-1-1-2-1-5-Female-Fitting-304-Stainless-Steel-Pipe-Biodiesel-/280818225976#vi-content

http://www.brewershardware.com/1-1.5-Tri-Clover-X-1.5-Male-NPT.html

How much do you think max you will be able to ferment in it?
 

I already bought these from another poster:

Brewershardware.com items
SKU / Product Item / price / Quantity / Total
TC15M15 1"/1.5" Tri Clover X 1.5" Male NPT $19.00 2 =$38.00
TC15CAP 1"/1.5" Tri Clover Cap $3.00 2 =$6.00
TC15CLAMP 1"/1.5" Tri Clover Clamp $6.00 4 =$24.00
TC15VBFVPT 1.5" Tri Clover Butterfly Valve - Pull Trigger $51.00 1 =$51.00
TC15GASSIL 1.5" Tri Clover Gasket Silicone $1.25 5 =$6.25
TC15SG 1.5" Tri Clover Sight Glass $54.00 1 =$54.00

So I don't know how big the ferrule's are and if what you linked will match up or not.

How much do you think max you will be able to ferment in it?

Good question. I'll have to find out. I'm wondering if you can get a full 1BBL in there safely with a blow off tube. It sounds to me like most of these vessels have extra room at the top.
 
-MG- said:
Good question. I'll have to find out. I'm wondering if you can get a full 1BBL in there safely with a blow off tube. It sounds to me like most of these vessels have extra room at the top.

That's what I am hoping for, I am really curious if I can get away with a full barrel in this. Hate to spend the money, then have it be too small. I know it's 130, and ridiculously cheap for a conical, but that's 130 that could go towards the right size. Someone has to have tried this already...
 
I was going to suggest the 60 gallon variant, but it doesn't look like you can get the free ship on it. The 35 gallon might be by far the cheaper option and best especially if you can fit your 1BBL.

When I get it I'll update, but not sure how long it will take to get to me.
 
Figure up your largest starter on a 1bbl batch. Say a Big Lager... I just plugged it into Mr. Malty and with a 31 gallon batch of 1.080 lager with a volume of 31 gallons and a 95% viability rate on your yeast, you will need around 10 gallons of stir-plate starter. Now, you will more than likely decant most of that so you are not pitching 10 gallons of liquid. I am just throwing that out to give you another point to ponder while making your decision.
(Having never brewed on this large of a scale, maybe I'm totally off...)
 
Figure up your largest starter on a 1bbl batch. Say a Big Lager... I just plugged it into Mr. Malty and with a 31 gallon batch of 1.080 lager with a volume of 31 gallons and a 95% viability rate on your yeast, you will need around 10 gallons of stir-plate starter. Now, you will more than likely decant most of that so you are not pitching 10 gallons of liquid. I am just throwing that out to give you another point to ponder while making your decision.
(Having never brewed on this large of a scale, maybe I'm totally off...)

Excellent point. I typically decant.

For me I personally plan to mostly make ales, but I am pretty aggressive in pitching rates like the pros do and need to start doing some math!
 
Even if you decant most of the liquid, you could still be pitching a few gallons of slurry! Go with the bigger conical. Worst case would be to have gallons of Krausen blow off your nice new conical... I suppose there is such a thing as "too much head space"... but where is that threshold? Maybe if they have a 40-45 gallon tank?
 
They have a 60 gallon tank, but the free shipping doesn't work.

For me this will be plenty, I typically make 12-15 gallons anyways.

This is when I decide to brew back to back and get 30 gallons in it.
 
I already bought these from another poster:

Brewershardware.com items
SKU / Product Item / price / Quantity / Total
TC15M15 1"/1.5" Tri Clover X 1.5" Male NPT $19.00 2 =$38.00
TC15CAP 1"/1.5" Tri Clover Cap $3.00 2 =$6.00
TC15CLAMP 1"/1.5" Tri Clover Clamp $6.00 4 =$24.00
TC15VBFVPT 1.5" Tri Clover Butterfly Valve - Pull Trigger $51.00 1 =$51.00
TC15GASSIL 1.5" Tri Clover Gasket Silicone $1.25 5 =$6.25
TC15SG 1.5" Tri Clover Sight Glass $54.00 1 =$54.00

So I don't know how big the ferrule's are and if what you linked will match up or not.

Anyone familiar with Tri Clover's able to tell me how to convert the 2" female end on the conical to get me to what I have above?
 
That's coming from DudaDiesel... they are very well known and have great customer service from what I hear. Surely it is a stock photo.
 
My conical arrived yesterday! Since I'm in Iowa, it shipped Friday and delivered Monday!! This thing is impressive!!

I'm still waitting on my fittings and working on the plumbing from the top to install a CIP ball as well as see about hooking up a gas post.
 
Most of these are intended for Ag use. We used to use them as hoppers on our planting rigs. I always figured it was so your fitting didn't rattle loose on the tractor.
 
I bought a 13 1/2" inside diameter (-456) red 70 euro FDA silicone o-ring from orings-online.com to fit on the lid assembly. It costs $9.87 each plus shipping. No nasty airborne particles - flying, crawling or otherwise - are going to get inside!. The lid itself seems to tighten on the assembly well enough on its own.


b5da2cc2.jpg


Where did you get the port for the lid for blow off?
 
This is for "MG"
Here is the image of how the weatherstrip is supposed to be staggered on the lid. Look at the post a couple above this one he has a rubber seal he ordered for the lid that looks pretty good also.

weatherstrip.png
 
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