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ASublimeDay

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Hey Guys,

Some background before I post:

-I have 3 hops plants, I'm allowing one vine each. When additional vines pop up (there have been plenty!), I let them get a foot in length, cut them at the base, and pop them in a rooting hormone solution. Plan to give them to my brewing buddies in the spring

-They are trained along chicken wire. When the main vine gets within 6" of the light, it is pushed back down and, through this process, grows horizontally along the wiring

-By only having one vine per plant, training them along the chicken wire is much easier and the size is manageable

-The soil is compost from my worm bin. I have about 400 red wriggler worms in a bed of paper and fruit/vegetable scraps. The soil (or "worm castings") is extremely rich and the plants LOVE it. The worms are not in the hops soil, I harvest the castings every few weeks. I had a big supply ready for when I planted the hops

-The bin is 25 gallons. The bin and box size are manageable because the vines are flowered early, then chopped down and go through their entire growth cycle again. This removes the requirement for a massive root system (more on this later)

-The light cycle is 16 hrs/day for a month, then 12 hours of light/12 hours of darkness until their flowering cycle is done.

-PLEASE spare the "why would you do this, you'll get a crappy yield, etc". The reason I am doing this is because I want completely organic hops, 100% free of pesticides, herbicides, bugs, chemical fertilizers etc. I thoroughly enjoy horticulture/botany and money is not a concern in this hobby. The total cost of building the box, the bin, the light, and the auto-watering system was a couple hundred dollars. The ongoing costs (light, water) ends up being 10 bucks a month. I brew bi-weekly, so I don't even know what I'd do with a lb of hops per plant.

-From left to right: Chinook, Nugget, Cascade. A nice balance of bittering/flavoring/aroma

-They are extremely happy and go about 9-10" per day of growth. The Cascade leaves are as big as my hand

-When the first harvest is complete, I plan to remove them from the soil, hack the roots and vines down, and pop them into an aeroponic hydroponic bin with organic nutrients being sprayed on the roots on a timer. Having the roots exposed (in the dark of the bin, of course) will prevent the plants from becoming root-bound, will increase oxygen and nutrients to the roots, and will allow me to chop the roots down to a reasonable size between harvests. It will also allow for a much faster vegetative/flowering cycle (faster harvests!)

-Is this cycling without vernalization (which it's been proven hops plants don't actually need), and not allowing the hops to grow to their full potential size ideal for harvest size? Nope. But I expect some damn good organic hops to brew with.

-I've done the root-chopping/no vernalization with perennial plants before. They rebound surprisingly quick from the reduction in roots/foliage. Their cycles also reset like clockwork when you turn the lights back to 16 hours after flowering.

So, without further adue, the pics (posting a few at a time, I'm at work and the computer is being bitchy)
 
Here you see the intake ducting in the top left corner (4" desk fan blowing cool air through a duct, pointed at the light. The plant on the left is the Chinook. Next to it is the Nugget.

photo.jpg
 
Here we have the light. It is a switchable ballast (it has 250, 275, 400, and 440 watt settings for HPS, and 175, 192.5, 250, and 275 watt settings for MH bulbs) I use a 400 watt High Pressure Sodium bulb, but its dimmed by the ballast to 275. The plants are growing so aggressively and are so healthy, I don't even know what they'd do if I jacked it up to 400 or 440. In the interest of heat concerns and energy costs, I'll stick with 275. I don't use the mid-summer white/blue spectrum of the Metal Halide bulbs, even though they're better for vegetative because 1) They're expensive and, 2) they're a lot less lumens.

In the top right you see the exhaust ducting. It pulls hot air out with another 4" desk fan. The fans are only on when the light is.

photo(1).jpg
 
Here you see the Cascade on the right and the Nugget in the middle. The Cascade is by far the most prolific grower, and its leaves are HUGE.

photo(2).jpg
 
Here you see the whole garden. The Cascade seems happiest, but the Chinook is also a happy girl. The Nugget doesn't seem to like the temperature (75-80 degrees with the light on, 65 with it off), but she grows nonetheless.

I did not grow these plants from rhizomes. They are year-old crowns I purchased. I'm not sure if I can post the name of the company or if that's considered spam? But I'm very happy with them. I received them in "fall dormancy", so it was just a small root ball and some dry stumps, but they absolutely took off when I hit them with water and more lumens per sq/foot than the summer sun at the equator :)

photo(3).jpg
 
A little farther back. The box closes and the walls are white. It is absolutely blinding when the light is on.

I'll post more when they start sprouting hops.

Thanks for reading!

photo(4).jpg
 
This is pretty interesting, I've been thinking about trying this myself but I don't know where to start.

How high is the light from the ground? How tall is the growing bin? How much dirt (how deep)? What did you make the bin walls from?

Thanks
 
This is pretty interesting, I've been thinking about trying this myself but I don't know where to start.

How high is the light from the ground? How tall is the growing bin? How much dirt (how deep)? What did you make the bin walls from?

Thanks

I'll take some detailed pictures tonight and post in the morning. The box is a 4'x2.5'x2.5' pine plywood self-construct. It cost about $40 to make. If I could do it all again I might avoid the headache and the hours of construction and just buy a pre-made "grow tent". Basically a PVC frame with nylon/mylar fabric. They're all over Ebay and Amazon.

The toughest thing is making sure its light-proof, which the grow tents apparently already are. The light is very bright and depending where in your house you put the box, it can be an eye sore. I spent a lot of time with a caulk gun and weather-stripping making sure no light was getting out.

So...yeah, make sure its light-proof. The problem with that becomes heat, which is why I have the fans. If you had the light out in the open heat wouldn't be an issue (you'd also have beams of light shooting out of your windows. HPS/MH lights are BRIGHT but the plants absolutely love them), but if its in a light-proof box with little or no ventilation, temperatures hit 95-100 degrees fast.

The tents already have holes for fans, or if you build it yourself just use a hole saw (drill attachment) and a desk fan. One pulling air out of the top, one pushing air in on the bottom. The reason for the ducting in my pictures is to keep the light in a little better.

Again, I'll post plenty of pics tomorrow. I'd say if you wanted something of similar size you'd be looking at:

Box: $40-??? you can really go all out and make it a piece of furniture, or bare bones like I did.
Bin: $4, rubbermaids range in price though. I'd look for the "recycled plastic"
Chicken wire: $5
Soil: This is a big variable. Just make sure its not terrible quality. I'm also iffy on things heavy on the chemicals, even if they claim to be safe. You also need 25 gallons of soil, so it can get a bit pricy. I'd say $20
Light: If you go 250 watts, around $120-$150 I think.
Hops: I bought crowns. They sell them all season and they were $9 each. The plant came to life and was an actively growing vine in 3 days.

So, a couple hundred bucks. I love it though. One of the best parts of my day is getting home and seeing how much they've grown. Can't wait until my home office reeks of hops too :D
 
A quick note on growing them indoors - running the lights 16 hours per day (or more) will keep them in a vegetative phase. When you want to start producing cones; shorten the "day" to about 10-12 hours. But don't go shorter than 8 hours or you will induce dormancy. Great leaf color! Brew On!
 
Looks great, I respect the choice to go all organic, and these are the three varieties I was going to try my hand at. I don't have nearly as many resources to devote to growing, but it's awesome to see your set up. Any chances of pictures from furthur away? I'm having a hard time seeing the scale of this operation.
 
A quick note on growing them indoors - running the lights 16 hours per day (or more) will keep them in a vegetative phase. When you want to start producing cones; shorten the "day" to about 10-12 hours. But don't go shorter than 8 hours or you will induce dormancy. Great leaf color! Brew On!

Mentioned that in my OP :mug:

Appreciate the compliment on leaf color! Makes me smile every time I see them.
 
Looks great, I respect the choice to go all organic, and these are the three varieties I was going to try my hand at. I don't have nearly as many resources to devote to growing, but it's awesome to see your set up. Any chances of pictures from furthur away? I'm having a hard time seeing the scale of this operation.

The box is 4' high x 2.5' x 2.5'

I'll post more pics in the morning. Just got home from work and working on getting :drunk:
 
Switched lights to 12 light 12 darkness today. No idea how long until I see some hops.

The new leaves are coming in a very pale green. They eventually develop into healthy green leaves but I don't like the look of it. Nitrogen deficiency? I wouldn't be surprised if they'd already eaten the 6 month supply of food in the soil in a month. Those ladies are monsters :)

Thoughts?
 
Some updated pics. In my OP I said they would be flowered a little earlier than I actually did. They vegged from January 1st - February 1st. The following pics are after the very first night of a 12/12 light/dark cycle, which induces flowering by making the plants think its fall.

The nugget is the one with yellowish leaves. They don't shrivel or have any bite marks, and they eventually turn green. I think the nugget just doesn't like so much light.

Overall sea of green with the light on:

photo.jpg
 
A side-ways view of the whole operation. The door closes and the box is light-proof:

photo(2).jpg
 
This is a view of the self-watering system. There are two holes in the bottom of the soil bin, the size of the two little buckets you see. There is no lid on the buckets. They are pressed up to the holes in the bin. Soil is packed tightly through the bin into the buckets, and there are many holes drilled in the buckets. The buckets are placed in the bins of water you see. The roots grow into the little buckets and pull up water into the soil as-needed.

The plants need to be top-watered for a bit while their roots grow down into the buckets, but now I just keep the bins filled (every other day they go through both) and they're happy!

photo(3).jpg
 
I should also mention that the side-arms are about a foot long on each vine. There would be a LOT more on the right side, but the main Cascade vine got chopped accidentally when I was removing excess vines at the base of the plant.

I was...upset. But another vine on the Cascade took over and rebounded fairly quickly. It was really fun tracking a 10' vine through the chicken wire to remove it (not!).

Tossed it into the worm bin...circle of life.
 
One of these days you're door is going to get kicked in by the DEA ;) You've got everything they look for. Increased power bill, additional ventilation and eventually an awfully reminiscent aroma ;)
 
One of these days you're door is going to get kicked in by the DEA ;) You've got everything they look for. Increased power bill, additional ventilation and eventually an awfully reminiscent aroma ;)

Ah yeah, they'll be scrutinizing that extra $8 on my electrical bill pretty hard.

The people they look for have 4+ 1,000 w lights running, not to mention industrial fans, etc. That's the type of stuff that makes your electrical bill double and sometimes even triple.

I assume the ventilation you're referring to would be discovered with FLIR imaging (heat cameras, essentially). What they look for is venting extreme heat OUT of your house. So something like a dryer vent would show up a bit and a commercial grow 1500 CFM fan shooting out 100+-degree temps would show up a LOT. I have a 4" desk fan blowing out lukewarm air into an office and then dissipating into the room. It isn't even hot enough to change the ambient temperature of the small room its in. My space heater would show up stronger on a FLIR than the hops box.

They'd also need a warrant to use a FLIR camera, and then to search the house, even if they did suspect something. A FLIR warrant is usually obtained by searching your trash. I don't do drugs, ergo there is nothing in my trash through which to obtain a warrant.

It'd also be local PD, not the DEA. The DEA has far better things to do than raid closet-grows in small towns.

Finally, is there anyone that has actually smelled the cousin of hops that would confuse it for hops, or vice-versa? ;)

I have several friends in law enforcement. I made sure this wouldn't be confused for something illicit.
 
Ah yeah, they'll be scrutinizing that extra $8 on my electrical bill pretty hard.

The people they look for have 4+ 1,000 w lights running, not to mention industrial fans, etc. That's the type of stuff that makes your electrical bill double and sometimes even triple.

I assume the ventilation you're referring to would be discovered with FLIR imaging (heat cameras, essentially). What they look for is venting extreme heat OUT of your house. So something like a dryer vent would show up a bit and a commercial grow 1500 CFM fan shooting out 100+-degree temps would show up a LOT. I have a 4" desk fan blowing out lukewarm air into an office and then dissipating into the room. It isn't even hot enough to change the ambient temperature of the small room its in. My space heater would show up stronger on a FLIR than the hops box.

They'd also need a warrant to use a FLIR camera, and then to search the house, even if they did suspect something. A FLIR warrant is usually obtained by searching your trash. I don't do drugs, ergo there is nothing in my trash through which to obtain a warrant.

It'd also be local PD, not the DEA. The DEA has far better things to do than raid closet-grows in small towns.

Finally, is there anyone that has actually smelled the cousin of hops that would confuse it for hops, or vice-versa? ;)

I have several friends in law enforcement. I made sure this wouldn't be confused for something illicit.

Nice answer to the obligatory DEA post.
 
Ah yeah, they'll be scrutinizing that extra $8 on my electrical bill pretty hard.

The people they look for have 4+ 1,000 w lights running, not to mention industrial fans, etc. That's the type of stuff that makes your electrical bill double and sometimes even triple.

I assume the ventilation you're referring to would be discovered with FLIR imaging (heat cameras, essentially). What they look for is venting extreme heat OUT of your house. So something like a dryer vent would show up a bit and a commercial grow 1500 CFM fan shooting out 100+-degree temps would show up a LOT. I have a 4" desk fan blowing out lukewarm air into an office and then dissipating into the room. It isn't even hot enough to change the ambient temperature of the small room its in. My space heater would show up stronger on a FLIR than the hops box.

They'd also need a warrant to use a FLIR camera, and then to search the house, even if they did suspect something. A FLIR warrant is usually obtained by searching your trash. I don't do drugs, ergo there is nothing in my trash through which to obtain a warrant.

It'd also be local PD, not the DEA. The DEA has far better things to do than raid closet-grows in small towns.

Finally, is there anyone that has actually smelled the cousin of hops that would confuse it for hops, or vice-versa? ;)

I have several friends in law enforcement. I made sure this wouldn't be confused for something illicit.

Wow. I actually double-winked.
 
You've already experienced my main concern, removing the bines from the chicken wire. Next year, I'd recommend burlap. Then the whole mess can go on the compost heap.
 
You've already experienced my main concern, removing the bines from the chicken wire. Next year, I'd recommend burlap. Then the whole mess can go on the compost heap.

Would the bines be able to grow through the burlap? Seems like it would just create a wall that would block light/growth?

I do like the idea of some sort of organic material next time, though :mug:
 
I added a foot to the ceiling of the grow box (now 5.5 feet tall). Bines can grow about four feet before being trained back down. Each crown has at least one bine over 15 feet long.

I'm going to use a zig-zagging twine for the next layer. The chicken wire is packed. More pics to come.
 
A glance at the chicken wire layer. Bines are two days shy of six weeks old. They did four weeks vegging, and have been flowering for 12 days.

There is a bit of sawdust on the plants (I cleaned it off shortly after the pic). This is from the construction of expanding the box.

photo.jpg
 
Here we see a closer picture (not close enough, I took them a little :drunk:)

You should be able to see the early flowers. I'll take a closer pic next week when they're more prominent.

My goal is to flower them until they stop producing. By eliminating the vegging stage, I'm hoping to get a constant enough supply that I never have to buy hops again.

I've scrapped the hydro idea, as the cost of hydroponic nutrients is a little ridiculous and they're doing so well in the organic soil.

photo(1).jpg
 
I'm following your progress, thank you for the updates. I have an idea for my own set up. I have a small back yard but I'm not sure I'm ready for permanent hop planting and the set up of a trellis. I'm also a creative gardener and love a unique project.

What are your thoughts about using your system outside? I would like the benefit of home grown hops, do not mind obsessive pruning (maintenance of a single vine), and also the benefit of not having hops running up poles.

I think it would be neat to have a couple of boxes in my back yard set up to soak sun light and keep the hops in a small space with chicken wire. What are your thoughts?

1. You mention that you plan to cut back the root ball before the next cycle. I'm wondering how to handle this with an outside set up. Perhaps with buckets like you've got.

2. I don't imagine there is any way to induce flowering early if I'm relying on Sol? Thoughts? I suppose I could manually cover with tarp or something. Hmm.

3. Could you explain more about how you train the plant? You say it grows 4' then you train it back down. What does that mean? Do you let it grow up, then you physically wind it back down through the chicken wire?

4. The other alternative I'm considering is a setup where I concoct some kind of 3D chicken wire lattice with enough surface area to "hold" a 25' hops vine in a small 5'x3'x3' area. Thoughts on how this would look?

I love the idea of keeping the hops out of the permanent soil, at eye level where I can interact with it and not have to tear down for harvest, and outside in the natural climate. I think your system may have some use outside of the basement.

Thanks!
 
I used to grow weed, I still have 10,000 watts of set up, enough to harvest... hmmmmmmmm maybe 20 pounds of hops. it would cost over $3,000 in materials alone... buuuuut...... if I can use my hydro nutrients to make the hops super flavorful like I know how to do, then, it might be worth it.

Also, weed growing smells nearly identicle to hops growing, a cop would probably think they were the same and get confused!!!! the thing is they are smelling the heat on all the equipment, the soil, the gases exchanged with the plant, see the resins don't smell THAT much except the last week of flowering and during drying, then it will smell..... crazy.
 
I'm following your progress, thank you for the updates. I have an idea for my own set up. I have a small back yard but I'm not sure I'm ready for permanent hop planting and the set up of a trellis. I'm also a creative gardener and love a unique project.

What are your thoughts about using your system outside? I would like the benefit of home grown hops, do not mind obsessive pruning (maintenance of a single vine), and also the benefit of not having hops running up poles.

I think it would be neat to have a couple of boxes in my back yard set up to soak sun light and keep the hops in a small space with chicken wire. What are your thoughts?

1. You mention that you plan to cut back the root ball before the next cycle. I'm wondering how to handle this with an outside set up. Perhaps with buckets like you've got.

2. I don't imagine there is any way to induce flowering early if I'm relying on Sol? Thoughts? I suppose I could manually cover with tarp or something. Hmm.

3. Could you explain more about how you train the plant? You say it grows 4' then you train it back down. What does that mean? Do you let it grow up, then you physically wind it back down through the chicken wire?

4. The other alternative I'm considering is a setup where I concoct some kind of 3D chicken wire lattice with enough surface area to "hold" a 25' hops vine in a small 5'x3'x3' area. Thoughts on how this would look?

I love the idea of keeping the hops out of the permanent soil, at eye level where I can interact with it and not have to tear down for harvest, and outside in the natural climate. I think your system may have some use outside of the basement.


Thanks!

Thanks for your interest! It's been a very fun project and I plan to keep you guys posted all the way through the first, and hopefully many future, harvests.

1. Cutting the root ball has been ditched. I also don't plan to switch to hydroponics, which was my original plan. The system is actually pretty cost-effective, depending on the size of harvests (I need about 5 ounces a month for it to pay for the cost of running the lights per month, and I hope to harvest every 60-75 days, so I doubt it'll be a problem). The cost of hydroponic nutrients is a bit much, and I like working with soil. There are roots growing out of the bottom of the bin into the automatic watering tubs (should've seen this coming). I'm going to leave the roots in the 25 gallon tub (in the soil) intact and just trim the roots growing out of the bottom a bit. I'm going to keep them long enough to be in the water with an air stone to keep them oxygenated. Hopefully this limits their sense of being root-bound by the 25 gallon tub. See earlier pictures for the self-watering system. There is also a lot of info on building self-watering systems on youtube. They're very inexpensive to build. My current set-up goes through a LOT of water. I'm going to set up an outdoor rainwater catcher soon. (Free soil from the worms/compost, free water from the sky!)

2. Early flowering outside is very difficult. It'd have to be a light-proof tarp and if you forgot to or were unable to cover them just a few nights out of the month you'd confuse the plants vegging/flowering cycle. I'm not sure what it'd do to a hops plant, but I'd imagine it could stunt their flowering and/or affect the quality of the flowers. I have had the plants on a very strict 16/8 (light/dark) hour cycle during vegging and 12/12 hours during flowering. As you can see, they started flowering very quickly under this cycle.

3. Yes, training the plant is basically running it along the chicken wire. When I was using the wire, I was bending it back down every 1'. I'm doing 4' now because I'm training it along twine (chicken wire is full, the twine is the next layer). Training it along the chicken wire should be done while the growth is new and supple. I've broken a few bines by letting them get too tall and thick before bending them back down. It should be done as often as possible. Its a bit like sewing, except the bine is the needle/thread and the chicken wire is the clothing.

4. There are a lot of outdoor set-ups that don't simply use a horizontal pole. My concern about metal chicken wire outside is how quickly it might rust. There are plenty of netting/twine alternatives.

I think its definitely feasible to apply outdoors, but the reason my system is able to sustain itself in limited space/pot size is because I flowered early, thereby keeping the vegetative stage short. This limited the space requirements, both for the bines and for the root system. My bines are the product of one month of intense june/july sun during the vegging cycle, whereas outdoor bines reach their indoor-unmanageable size because of 3-4 months of vegging.

You'll need a bigger chicken wire/twine screen, and based on what I've read about hops outdoors in pots/buckets, at least a 25 gallon pot per plant.

Also, you mentioned the box. This wouldn't really be necessary outdoors. The plants are in the box inside because I want to keep the light reflecting off the walls. Outside the sun comes from different angles, and a box would block light at certain times of the day.

Let me know if you have any other questions. Based on my rambling, I could obviously talk about this stuff all day :mug:
 
I used to grow weed, I still have 10,000 watts of set up, enough to harvest... hmmmmmmmm maybe 20 pounds of hops. it would cost over $3,000 in materials alone... buuuuut...... if I can use my hydro nutrients to make the hops super flavorful like I know how to do, then, it might be worth it.

Also, weed growing smells nearly identicle to hops growing, a cop would probably think they were the same and get confused!!!! the thing is they are smelling the heat on all the equipment, the soil, the gases exchanged with the plant, see the resins don't smell THAT much except the last week of flowering and during drying, then it will smell..... crazy.

10,000 watts would cost nearly $400 per month to run in my area. If you were harvesting 20 lbs of hops every 60 days, you'd be upside down by over $700 per harvest. That's not factoring in the insane amount of expensive hydroponic nutrients a plant large enough to produce 20 lbs would be sucking up every week. (Mine go through a half-gallon of water a day)

I've always used soil. I'm knowledgeable on hydroponics but if you know what you're doing with soil mixing and fertilizing schedules, plus the addition of a super-rich compost, there isn't as colossal of a difference as hydroponics proponents would have us believe. The "side-by-side" comparison grows are usually done with top-tier hydro systems and nutrients, and the soil they're comparing it to is some off-the-shelf miracle gro crap. Yes, good hydroponics will beat good soil everyday of the week, but for a product that goes for $2-$3 per oz, I'm not willing to go upside down on nutrients every month.

The nice thing about this system is that if I continue to use it, it will eventually pay for itself and even save me money in the long-run. I need it to produce 5 oz a month to pay for the cost of running it, and anything over that is free hops/paying off the initial cost of the set-up.

Since hops and their cousin don't smell all that similar when they're a finished product, how would they smell so similar when growing? If this were the case, wouldn't you all have cops coming to your yards looking for illegal plants? :confused: I'd think your neighbors would be a bit concerned if the reeking stench of an illegal plant was wafting over from your yard two months out of the year.
 
16 days into flowering. Raising the height of the box has allowed them to grow a lot more vertically and they seem happy with that. Ignore the black tape in the back. Its temporary; I'll be patching it over tonight. It's where the old fan used to be before I raised the box.

photo.jpg
 
Here is a view of the chicken wire layer. Each main bine has about 15 feet of growth condensed in that layer and heavily over-lapping one another. They'll be allowed to grow a few feet vertically now that the box has been raised. The very bottom leaves have died off but there are several healthy layers that the light has been powerful enough to penetrate. The white spots are sawdust left over from construction. I need to trim off dead leaves tonight

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I've got cones that are about 3/4 of an inch, and there are a lot of them. Unfortunately, the vines have become such a mess overlapping and wrapping around each other that it's going to be damn near impossible to distinguish which cones are which without hacking them down and going to work pulling them apart from the chicken wire (next cycle I'm thinking three tomato cages...make it much easier to keep each crown to one bine and to differentiate which is which).

Will the hops continue to produce as long as I keep them under a 12/12 lighting cycle or will there come a day where I can cut all the vines at once and have all or most of the cones ready at or around the same time?

Would it make for a decent beer to just have a salad of Nugget, Chinook, and Cascade for all three stages of additions and for dry-hopping? This is assuming they're in approximately even quantities.
 
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