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EpicCider

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Thinking about stove top pasteurizing in a large pot at around 155 degrees, then letting it cool and putting the hard cider back into a carboy. Topping it off with juice and backsweetening, putting back on airlock to confirm no activity, letting yeast fall out, then kegging and carbing and delivering to bottle via beer gun.

Thoughts? I prefer to avoid sediment that happens via stove top in bottles. I have several batches going right now, considering risking my nottingham batch. I'm aware you can treat via compounds, but I prefer to avoid them.
 
I don't make cider (yet) bit wouldn't a chemical (campden?) means be easier with less oxidation risk?
 
Seems like a lot of work and many points to recontaminate it, everything downstream of the pasteurized juice needs to be sterile, just doing it in a big pot is going to expose it to contamination, you seem to already realize this as a possibility since you are going to put it back into a carboy to see if it referments, but if you get a bacteria vs a yeast you are not going to see any bubbles. Your yeast already make a lot of compounds, including sulfites. Did this batch go thru MLF yet? WVMJ

Thinking about stove top pasteurizing in a large pot at around 155 degrees, then letting it cool and putting the hard cider back into a carboy. Topping it off with juice and backsweetening, putting back on airlock to confirm no activity, letting yeast fall out, then kegging and carbing and delivering to bottle via beer gun.

Thoughts? I prefer to avoid sediment that happens via stove top in bottles. I have several batches going right now, considering risking my nottingham batch. I'm aware you can treat via compounds, but I prefer to avoid them.
 
I don't make cider (yet) bit wouldn't a chemical (campden?) means be easier with less oxidation risk?

Campden tablets effectively make bad conditions for the yeast, but do not kill the yeast off. Yeast can come back against campden tablets, and you can end up with bottle bombs.

I could use Potassium Sorbate and just really clarify my cider, but I prefer not to add it. Don't think there is anyway around it though.
 
There is a way around it. Cold crash it and let it clear, then back sweeten. Then bottle it and keep it fairly cold.

I have had mine stored at 38 degrees. Even the ones at 60 degrees have produced no carbonation, but the ones at 70 degrees have.
 
There is a way around it. Cold crash it and let it clear, then back sweeten. Then bottle it and keep it fairly cold.

I have had mine stored at 38 degrees. Even the ones at 60 degrees have produced no carbonation, but the ones at 70 degrees have.

I want to age long term though, and temperature control will not be viable for the time frame I'm thinking.
 
Seems like a lot of work and many points to recontaminate it, everything downstream of the pasteurized juice needs to be sterile, just doing it in a big pot is going to expose it to contamination, you seem to already realize this as a possibility since you are going to put it back into a carboy to see if it referments, but if you get a bacteria vs a yeast you are not going to see any bubbles. Your yeast already make a lot of compounds, including sulfites. Did this batch go thru MLF yet? WVMJ

The hard cider is approximately a 1.5 months old, I did not introduce MLF bacteria, so no it has not gone through MLF yet.
 
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