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Well, that is a nice idea, but there are a few issues.
First off, desoldering the LED/MCU PCB from the main board is a pain. Secondly, there is no reason to believe the PCB interconnection follow any standard. You may well end up with a new PCB that only works with one version.
I would rather suggest a kickstarter or something, to develop and manufacture an open hardware/software thermostat platform. Keeping it simple and cheap with only the basic and most necessary hardware by default, but with GPIO to spare to be able to extend functionality. I imagine it like a sort of a mashup of an Arduino Uno and an STC.

Yes I covered the board issues in my comments, maybe not obviously enough. Soldering is an issue for those not comfortable with it. Re-using the LED is probably a bigger issue. For my experience, this is a much simpler direction than kickstarter. Just the case parts could be a huge cost factor. Injection molds are expensive to tool.

I'm going to look at my boards and see how they compare, I have at least 3 different ones. A set of jumpers on a 'new' display board may quickly solve this.
 
Oops, sorry. Yes, you did mention that.
Still, it is the desoldering that is difficult. It is very hard to remove the PCB without breaking off any traces, I have done it twice and broke pads on both occations. Now, I'm no überleet solderer so I'm sure it can be done, but it is non trivial. Desoldering the LED display will be easy in comparison.
Are you sure the physical dimensions even match?
I'm not against the idea, it is a good one. And it would be even better if it would be possible to make one that fits many. But I guess it would not even be so hard to make one pcb for each of the versions.
On the other hand, Will has tracked the source, so as long as they manufacture them, it should not be that hard to find good ones.
I'm not really suggesting that you need to create a whole new product per se. Look at all the 'other' thermostats like the willhi. All use the same enclosure. I'm thinking pretty much along the lines of creating a custom STC hardware, but more versatile. As for manufacturing, a cooperation with sparkfun or the like could be an option.
 
Well, that is a nice idea, but there are a few issues.
First off, desoldering the LED/MCU PCB from the main board is a pain. Secondly, there is no reason to believe the PCB interconnection follow any standard. You may well end up with a new PCB that only works with one version.
I would rather suggest a kickstarter or something, to develop and manufacture an open hardware/software thermostat platform. Keeping it simple and cheap with only the basic and most necessary hardware by default, but with GPIO to spare to be able to extend functionality. I imagine it like a sort of a mashup of an Arduino Uno and an STC.


Or you could just build a brewpi…
 
BrewPi is a nice project, and you can absolutely go that route.
In fact, it would be nice to have an "STC" that could act as a BrewPi device. What I want is a standalone, completely autonomous, reliable, compact, ready to use unit per default, but has the ability to be extensible. Add a nrf24l01 tranciever and you could use it as a BrewPi unit for example.
The STC is compelling for one set of reasons and BrewPi for another set (over simplified). It would be cool, if they could be merged. I'm not against logging, graphing web interface and such, but I'd like it to be optional and keep the core cheap, simple, reliable, easy to setup and use.
 
Just to point out that this version is hardly a cheap knock off of the originals!

Look at the simple logical layout of the components, the fact that they have allowed for a 3rd realy and second sensor means they are up to something else with this board.

Also notice the milled slot around the mains voltage relay contacts as some low voltage tracks run round the edge of the pcb.

This is a class pcb design!
 
I get you…

I'd totally love some sort of stc device that could be coupled with a brewpi setup. But I also wish that the brewpi guys and the rpints guys would become best buddies and save us all the hassle of a double install and just join forces already to dominate the HB software field, but I digress. A bit of info on the brewpi setup, because I believe you think that you HAVE to log data and serve websites and **** with a brewpi.
An arduino uno can be bought on amazon for 16.80 which is about what I spent on an stc-1000 knock off, without dual relays (since I don't need heat I'm my keezer). A few temp probes can be bought for about 5-8 bucks here and there. And you don't have to run brewpi on a raspberry pi. Once you setup the arduino, it can be allowed to run indefinitely without the pc or rpi logging the data, if you so choose. You have options as to what kind of relay type you want to use (which means you can run any kind of fridge unit you want). You don't have to buy anything from brewpi.com. In fact you don't have to buy anything but an arduino, temp probes, and your choice of relay device, and a resistor. The code is open source and you can change anything you want if you know just a little bit on how to use atmel studio (most every feature has a detailed description commented out within the code).
It's easy to setup the logging if you want, from any os. Or you can do what I did for my testing phase, and build a vm that can handle the logging and programming of the arguing units. Or you can couple it up to a 20x4 lcd unit and rotary encoder and never have to hook it up to a pc again (unless you intend to update).

Plus most people doing the stc mods have some sort if arduino kicking around.

Not trying to downplay the significance of the work done here. I already have a couple devices with stc shaped holes in them that could benefit from a simple plug and play controller setup. Just trying to point out that a lot of people shy away from the brewpi world because of cost or because they think you need a cs and ee degree just to build one. The first(and only) arduino project Ive ever tackled was the brewpi. Now I'm working on getting 4 instances running in one fridge…
 
Oh, reading my last post I can see I gave that impression. I have actually submitted code to the brewpi project (for running profiles on the arduino instead of the rpi), so yes I have a pretty decent idea about what brewpi is. So, yes brewpi will run without the rpi, but to my knowledge they have not merged my profile code, so without rpi no profiles.
As I said brewpi is awesome for a few reasons, stc for a few other. I'd like the best of both worlds :)
 
I'm going to look at my boards and see how they compare, I have at least 3 different ones. A set of jumpers on a 'new' display board may quickly solve this.

I looked at the V1.1 board last night, and it's not as 'simple' as I may have suggested to clone it with the programmable MCU circuit. The edge connector is around 24 pins, although only about 8 are active signals. There are a lot more resistors than I remembered, and there are 2 resistor arrays, plus 4 switches. The board is unusually thin, and standard boards may not fit the slot in the relay board. And no place to connect the programming header on the relay board.
So much for that idea.....
 
Wondering if anyone has put this on a 220V unit. I'd buy the Black Box if I could get one in 220 for use in Europe...
 
Should work just fine. Your only switching 1 wire on the circuit but the relays are rated up to 250v
 
Hi guys!
Ok, so I have pushed an additional change to the work branch.
I changed the SA (or setpoint alarm setting). I decided it was a too complicated, and not versatile or intuitive enough.

So, I changed this setting to be settable from -80.0 to 80.0 degF (or -40.0 to 40.0 degC, as if you guys care...). What this does, is that if this setting is positive, then it is the allowable setting, by how much the temperature is allowed to differ from the setpoint before the alarm goes off. For ex. say you set it at 5.0, then the alarm will sound if temperature is 5.0 degrees (or more) above OR below setpoint.
If the setting is negative, say -5.0 degrees, then the alarm will sound if the temperature IS NOT 5.0 degrees (or more) above OR below the setpoint.
The first case can be useful during fermentation, to warn if temperature is out of range. The second case can be useful to get a reminder once wort has reached pitching temp.

If it is set at 0.0, the alarm is completely disabled.

If the alarm is tripped, the buzzer will sound and the display will flash between current temperature and "SA" as an indication. It will not disengage the relays as the sensor failure alarm ("AL"), and the unit will still function as normal (only a bit more annoyingly).

Care will be needed in selecting the correct value to avoid tripping the alarm unnecessarily. Especially when running profiles, as the setpoint will change (and even more so without ramping or with steep ramps, as SP will change much).

Also, I have changes the name of "Pb" setting to "Pb2" as that seems clearer (enable probe 2).

The changes will invalidate EEPROM data (at least in the set menu) as I needed to move "SA" setting.

With this, I'm feeling pretty good about v1.06, I'll leave it in the work branch a little while and if I don't hear any complaints in a reasonable amount of time, I'll pull it to the master branch and make a release ;)

Oh yeah, and a small bonus as well, I know Will has put together an excellent spreadsheet for visualizing profiles, but sadly I never got it working in Libre Office. So, I have built a simple webpage (it is under the 'profile' folder).

So, yeah... Cheers!

//mats
 
Oh yeah, and a small bonus as well, I know Will has put together an excellent spreadsheet for visualizing profiles, but sadly I never got it working in Libre Office. So, I have built a simple webpage (it is under the 'profile' folder).

It works. Thank you!
 
Hi guys!

With this, I'm feeling pretty good about v1.06, I'll leave it in the work branch a little while and if I don't hear any complaints in a reasonable amount of time, I'll pull it to the master branch and make a release ;)

Oh yeah, and a small bonus as well, I know Will has put together an excellent spreadsheet for visualizing profiles, but sadly I never got it working in Libre Office. So, I have built a simple webpage (it is under the 'profile' folder).

I was also successful flashing the work branch of 1.06 last night.

I built one of the $5 cheap ebay arduinos as mats laid out. My soldering skills are downright terrible, but it was successful - and I managed to flash successfully as well from my Mac.

Haven't had a chance to set up the STC-1000 in an installed state yet, but probably in the coming week I'll get to that.

Oh, and the webpage profiler is great! Thanks!
 
Cool! Thanks for that! It is always nice with feedback.
And please, do let me know your experience with 1.06 good or bad (that goes for all y'all that try it out). It really helps me out to build a better firmware for everyone :)
Thanks!
 
I just flashed my v1.03 to v1.06. I REALLY like the feel of the buttons now. On v1.03 it was difficult to press the button short enough to change the values by 0.1, but on v1.06 it's not a problem changing a value by 0.1. I tried out your web page as well. Very nice! I was thinking of making a Google Sheets version to hopefully remedy the fact not everyone uses MS Office, but don't know if i will now that there's another solution! :)

Anyway, I've got my Festbier ramping from 50F to 65F over the next 8 days, so I'll let you know if anything goes awry (if it's user error, I'll keep it to myself ;) ).

Thanks again for the great firmware!
 
Yes, I should add Matts, that I fermented a Maibock and a Martzen (Oktoberfest) in a refrigerator controlled using a temperature profile I entered using your firmware, and even pre-lagering they are both delicious!

Thank you for all you've done.
 
You really need to be wary of what you are buying. If it seems too good to be true, then it is.
They won't work for STC-1000+ though as you suspected. You need the exact hardware. The MCU and the schematic is completely different, even though the units may appear similar.
Use them as they are, sell them or scavenge them for parts if you like to tinker :)
 
Those are single stage temp controllers. A few years ago I bought some super cheap STC-looking controllers and they ended up being those single stage controllers (WH7016C I have the manual here). I sold 2 on HBT for cost (or lower, can't recall) and still have one to control a fan-only ferm chamber I have. They're ok for what they do (they do heating OR cooling, you have to set what mode the controller is in), but they sure aren't STC-1000s, and definitely not STC-1000+! Good luck! :mug:

EDIT: If you want to wire one up to use as a single stage, this is how it can be done: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/index85.html#post3961076
 
Thanks, I actually was looking at it, and I suspected it was single stage.

No sweat... I figured it was a long shot anyway.

Now They're free, so I'll just use them for something else... If they do a decent job, I'll use one for my kegerator

No problem. You may want to look into the rating of the relays. I think they're slightly lower than the STCs, so keep that in mind if you use it on a kegerator since they can draw a bit of current.
 
Did the photos and description match what you got? It sounds like you screwed the seller over, as you can't really say there is an "actual" STC-1000...there are multiple versions of it.
 
From the picture, it looks like a single-stage, but that's because I've had both units and know what to look for (notice only one set of connections for the load, dual-stage would have one for heating and one for cooling). To someone who hasn't had either, it looks close enough to an STC-1000 for easy confusion. No where does it say "single-stage" and the description itself says "STC 1000", which means it should have all the functionality as other STC-1000s, which a single-stage does not. I see nothing wrong at all with Swiller's actions. As alphaomega said, you really have to be careful with what you order and where you order it from...
 
I have a single stage controller for my kegerator. Since it only needs to get cold. But mine had an m as the first letter in the model number, if I remember correctly. Anyway imine is rated for 15amps.
 
Clearly... Because the title, "Digital STC-1000 All-Purpose Temperature Controller Thermostat With Sensor 110V" and the description, "heating and cooling control" and the fact that I emailed and got confirmation from the buyer it was a legitimate stc1000, was VERY clear that it WASN'T an stc1000. Regardless of the photo, the description and response I got from the seller was not what I received.

So I have no qualm keeping these and screwing him over. Thanks.


There is no such thing as a "legitimate" STC-1000, unfortunately. There are many versions and, to my knowledge, no way to determine which one was the original and which ones are copies. All we really know is that version 1.0 is the one that works for STC-1000+.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
I haven't had any bugreports so far on v1.06, so I decided it was time for a proper release.
Cheers!
 
Alphaomega, I decided I wanted to use my first post on this forum to let you know how much I appreciate you sharing your talents and hard work with us. Love my STC 1000+. Thank you!
 
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