STC-1000 Setup - For Beginners

[thomascw]

It looks like something killed the images on the original post! Any chance someone has a copy of this guide saved somewhere that would include the images you could send me? I was really hoping to do this build

+1, just ordered controller

 

[Koda]

+1, just ordered controller

I'm going to assemble mine this weekend, I think I've pieced enough info from this thread and others to get the job done. I'll take some pictures along the way to fill in the gaps of the original post. If I end with a working controller that doesn't burn my house down I'll post them here.

 

[danielsmyth]

I built this 2-3 months ago per instructions and it worked fairly well in the beginning. Over the last 6 weeks the temperature has slowly but surely crept up.

It is set to the following:
2 degrees celsius
.3 degrees differential
3 min comp delay time
calibrated at the factory 0 degrees

Do I have a bad unit?
Crossed wires?
Need to adjust my calibration?

It is currently sitting at 9.6 degress C.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Thetonymartin]

I built this 2-3 months ago per instructions and it worked fairly well in the beginning. Over the last 6 weeks the temperature has slowly but surely crept up.



It is set to the following:

2 degrees celsius

.3 degrees differential

3 min comp delay time

calibrated at the factory 0 degrees



Do I have a bad unit?

Crossed wires?

Need to adjust my calibration?



It is currently sitting at 9.6 degress C.



Thanks for the help!

If this is set up outside in your garage, the temp could be creating up due to the higher ambient temperature of the summer.
Or it could be that your (kegerator/keezer) is leaking cold out through the door seal or the refrigeration/compressor is going out.

 

[TexasWine]

Built one of these today thanks to the simple instructions in this post. Replaced the extension cords with some actual plugs for a little cleaner look.

I tried it out with my new 1500 watt immersion heater and had a near catasrophe (a pop, some smoke, and melted wire). I'm hoping this thing will stand up to the demands of the chest freezer I just bought. Used 18 gauge wire, and I think that might have been a mistake.

 

[Thetonymartin]

Built one of these today thanks to the simple instructions in this post. Replaced the extension cords with some actual plugs for a little cleaner look.

I tried it out with my new 1500 watt immersion heater and had a near catasrophe (a pop, some smoke, and melted wire). I'm hoping this thing will stand up to the demands of the chest freezer I just bought. Used 18 gauge wire, and I think that might have been a mistake.

Sounds like you have a short and or have a neutral connected to a positive somewhere in your wiring. You should open it up and check all the connections before testing it again. I would re-wire the whole thing with thicker gage wire.

 

[doug293cz]

Built one of these today thanks to the simple instructions in this post. Replaced the extension cords with some actual plugs for a little cleaner look.

I tried it out with my new 1500 watt immersion heater and had a near catasrophe (a pop, some smoke, and melted wire). I'm hoping this thing will stand up to the demands of the chest freezer I just bought. Used 18 gauge wire, and I think that might have been a mistake.

STC-1000 output relays are only good for 10A. You can't run more than 1200W thru one. At 1500W, you are pulling 12.5A @ 120V. Best practice is to derate the output relays and run significantly less than 10A continuous (compressor start up currents up to 10A should be ok.)

18 gauge wire is ok for short runs of up to 10A (http://www.stayonline.com/reference-circuit-ampacity.aspx), but larger wire won't hurt and will add safety margin.

Looking at the spot where the cord melted, you may have had a defective cord (or that spot was the weakest point if you had a short somewhere else.)

Brew on

 

[doctormiah]

Check out the article on AHA...
https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pimp-my-system/build-temperature-controller/

 

[jeffc]

STC-1000 output relays are only good for 10A. You can't run more than 1200W thru one. At 1500W, you are pulling 12.5A @ 120V. Best practice is to derate the output relays and run significantly less than 10A continuous (compressor start up currents up to 10A should be ok.)

18 gauge wire is ok for short runs of up to 10A (http://www.stayonline.com/reference-circuit-ampacity.aspx), but larger wire won't hurt and will add safety margin.

Looking at the spot where the cord melted, you may have had a defective cord (or that spot was the weakest point if you had a short somewhere else.)

Mine just arrived. It has 15A 125V relays in it. I wouldn't use 18AWG wire for it in any case.

I ordered the parts from digi-key, monoprice and amazon:

Digi-Key $16.96
3 x 3-350819-2 FASTON Quick Connect crimp on connectors for the power inlet
1 x 701W-X2/04 Qualtek snap in C14 Receptacle for power in
2 x 739W-X2/04 Qualtek snap in NEMA 5-15 Receptacle for power out, these have IDC connections for the hot, ground and neutral, so they are really easy to use.
1 x 1591ESBK Hammond ABS Project Box

Amazon $16.69
1 x STC-1000

Monoprice $14.13
2 x C13 6 foot 14AWG power cords. One for power in, one to break up for connecting everything up since I don't have spare wire lying around. (Monoprice)

Radioshack $3.49
1x 270-1281 10-Amp Inline fuse holder.

Total: $51.27, but it will be cheaper in quantity (saving on shipping from the electronics parts stores and buying real electric cable in lengths)

Can't wait to set it up, mod my 'new' mini fridge to fit two corny kegs, and build my wort chiller!

EDIT: Ended up adding an in-line fuse holder + fuses from radioshack to finish the build. The part is cheaper online at digikey (Product BF303 $1.22) or you can get a C14 receptacle with one built-in.

As an addendum - the IDC 5-15 outlets were really hard to put together without a c-clamp to push the wire on. I ended up pushing the back on to mark the location, then using my wire stripper to cut the insulation, then pushing it all the back way on.

 

[raouliii]

.... It has 15A 125V relays in it....

True, but it should still be considered rated at the stated 10 amps.

 

[paperairplane]

great info = tagging for future build

 

[watermelon83]

Check out the article on AHA...
https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pimp-my-system/build-temperature-controller/

Why do they recommend using white wire for the triggered outputs I wonder? Seems like that could get someone hurt.

 

[Thetonymartin]

Hi ,could you please tell me the size of your black box?Thank you.

I can tell you what I used. It is from RadioShack, size around 2"x6"x8". I have the STC1000 and two outlets installed. I also used a computer style plug and receptacle. Theres plenty of room for all of it.

 

[Jonathan_Marino]

I added a link to the box I used in my original post. Not home right now to measure it.

 

[augiedoggy]

Thank you very much.

have you guys seen the custom firmware alphaomega has written for the a400_p revision of the stc clones? its pretty impressive with its 8 custom profiles. Im using a few of them now.

you probably have seen them already but just incase..

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=464348

 

[Firewalker11]

I just got mine on the mail yesterday. Can't wait to replace my stock STC with it!

 

[wbarber69]

^^^ Drunk or bot? ^^^

 

[alphaomega]

^^^ Drunk or bot? ^^^

I'd say neither. My guess it is an account to promote products by an asian retailer.

 

[wbarber69]

And apparently they deleted the post

 

[wbarber69]

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[wbarber69]

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[wbarber69]

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[wbarber69]

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[wbarber69]

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[Firewalker11]

Oooooo-Kaaaaaay... Back to living people.

I just got done running a full fermentation cycle with the STC-1000+ and I think it's well worth the money and perhaps more. I used the suggested Ale programming and it hit all the steps on time. Next is a Lager, just need the program.

 

[jdlevity]

I know its been 3 years now, but is there a way to get the pictures for this instructional back up? I found them to be very informative when I made my first controller.

 

[Thetonymartin]

Here's some pictures I from the interwebs that I referenced when I built mine.

Edit: Weird. I had some working diagrams attached but they didn't upload?

 

[Jonathan_Marino]

Hey all - not sure why pictures aren't showing up. Maybe admin can help. I, unfortunately, no longer have them.

also - I just bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E2UFGM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Which is what we all wished we had 3 years ago.

 

[mjpdrum]

Hi all,
I'm just in the process of building a keezer and I've bought an STC 1000 but I'm a bit worried now because when I search how to build a STC setup they are all about dual controller systems, my question is how do I wire the STC just for the cooling end of things?
Thanks
Mark

 

[TheFlatLander]

Hi all,
I'm just in the process of building a keezer and I've bought an STC 1000 but I'm a bit worried now because when I search how to build a STC setup they are all about dual controller systems, my question is how do I wire the STC just for the cooling end of things?
Thanks
Mark

Build the STC for both heating and cooling, just use the cooling side of the unit. Eventually you might need the heating side, best to have it there for you then.

Cheers

 

[mjpdrum]

Hi and thanks for the reply,
Are you saying to wire a 2 socket system? I've seen people disconnecting the original thermosat and using it that way,.
What do you think?

 

[Thetonymartin]

Hi and thanks for the reply,
Are you saying to wire a 2 socket system? I've seen people disconnecting the original thermosat and using it that way,.
What do you think?

I built mine as a two socket system. You don't have to use both.
That way if your temperature control needs change in the future, it's as simple as plugging in the new heating/cooling source and setting the temps. Remember to label them. Cheers ��