@DonT not yet. Hope to reach that point today.
Congrats man! I'm still humping away on mine. Let me know how testing goes and good luck.
Thanks. I'm wondering if there is a particular start-up procedure. I'm thinking I'll plug it in with the internal breakers in the OFF position first....
I'm curious, what's the fourth XLR connection on the panel? My Kal panel has three for the boil, mash, and HLT probes.
I plugged in the box the box yesterday and it didn't start a fire... HOORAY!
I did the interlock test and it all looks good. Next I'll turn on the internal breakers and hook up the sensors to see if everything works. I think I'm good though...
The next thing I'm pondering is pump placement and being able to plug them in. It appears the cables are going to be too short to reach the controller. I'm thinking I may have to extend the cables.
What size length are your pump cords? Also, where are you planning to mount your panel? I ended up fabricating a mount out of an articulating tv mount! My pump cords are 10ft plus 3" or so with the locking adapters I'm using for the pumps.
I have chugger pumps and the cord length is 5ft.... and I'll need a couple more ft to make it a comfy fit. I plan to put both pumps on a drawer under the workbench/brewbench. That way I can slide it in/out as needed and stay out of the way. It's 18/3, but I'm going to use 16/3 because Lowes has it for .63 cents a foot. I'll put the splice behind the bench, attached to the back of the bench, to keep it stable. I'm placing the controller on the wall next to the bench above my FC. Scroll up to see pics of my garage... The box will be at the lower left corner of the meat market sign.
I got my HLT from Brew Hardware on Friday! Thanks @Bobby_M, looks great! Weld quality is top notch and herms coil went in without a hitch.
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A three wire power input dryer, that has any 120V control circuitry inside, will blow a GFCI every time. If it's set up for four wire input, then it will work with a GFCI.Back to an electrical question. I thought I read somewhere on HBT that a dryer will trip a GFCI breaker all the time and so won't work. Is this true? My plan was to replace the current 50A breaker with a 30A GFCI. I'll be unplugging the dryer to brew. And yeah, that 50A probably shouldn't be there anyway... previous renter.
A three wire power input dryer, that has any 120V control circuitry inside, will blow a GFCI every time. If it's set up for four wire input, then it will work with a GFCI.
Brew on![]()
Looks like it's coming together nicely! Exciting to have new equipmentI gotta say though, that new Spike logo is going to kill the OCD side of me. I bought a new Spike kettle earlier this spring, has the old logo on it. It's a great kettle, Spike was completely awesome to work with and the product is top notch. But.. if/when I add a mash tun or HLT to my setup it will have the new logo on it. I'll probably have to have a custom kettle made just so I can use it with the logo in the back so I don't see it!
Edit to add: Not a knock against the new Spike logo at all. It's great. It's just the anal retentiveness in me not being able to deal with two different logos!
I hope you still monitor this - where did you find instructions to perform an 'interlock test'??I plugged in the box the box yesterday and it didn't start a fire... HOORAY!
I did the interlock test and it all looks good. Next I'll turn on the internal breakers and hook up the sensors to see if everything works. I think I'm good though...
The next thing I'm pondering is pump placement and being able to plug them in. It appears the cables are going to be too short to reach the controller. I'm thinking I may have to extend the cables.
It was in the assembly instructions. I can't find it right now, but if you look on the Auber website you should be able to find it.I hope you still monitor this - where did you find instructions to perform an 'interlock test'??