Stalled Fermentation?

[bowtie]

I brewed 10 gallons of IPA 4/18. My pre boil gravity was 1.049 post boil was 1.054. I pitched a package of White labs WLP001 California ale yeast in each carboy. Fermentation was going excellent 4 days then slowed but still going for 6 more days. Since then I have not seen any action at all. None. Last night 5/1 I opened the carboys to dry hop and take a sample. Gravity was 1.027 and tasted as it should. Just concerned no movement, foaming, or bubbles out of air lock at all. Do I add more yeast, let it go? My fermentation temp is 68degF

 

[MeanLowerLow]

I brewed 10 gallons of IPA 4/18. My pre boil gravity was 1.049 post boil was 1.054. I pitched a package of White labs WLP001 California ale yeast in each carboy. Fermentation was going excellent 4 days then slowed but still going for 6 more days. Since then I have not seen any action at all. None. Last night 5/1 I opened the carboys to dry hop and take a sample. Gravity was 1.027 and tasted as it should. Just concerned no movement, foaming, or bubbles out of air lock at all. Do I add more yeast, let it go? My fermentation temp is 68degF

I would check it again in 3 days. If it's still 1.027, I would pitch a Safale US-05 dry yeast. It's my go-to on stuck fermentations - it's a beast of a yeast.

 

[Boleslaus]

Do you brew all grain, PM, extract, etc? Trying to troubleshoot what could have happened.

 

[CA_Mouse]

Do you brew all grain, PM, extract, etc? Trying to troubleshoot what could have happened.

^^this^^

If you brewed and extract, that may be about it. If you brewed all-grain, recipe and mash temps would be needed to help you figure it out.

 

[kombat]

+1, I don't believe in "stalled" fermentations, I believe in "completed" fermentations. It's quite likely that the yeast have simply finished consuming all of the sugars they're able to consume, and what remains are not fermentable by the yeast you pitched.

 

[m00ps]

no matter what you want to call it, the idea of a 1.027 IPA is just gross.
given the OG of that one, it should finish close to 1.010 by IPA standards

 

[IslandLizard]

That 1.027 was that a hydrometer or refractometer reading?

 

[bowtie]

It was an all grain brewed with the Brew Boss ( BIAB/ COFI). 19.2lbs. 2 row, 4.8lbs. Munich, 2.5lbs. Crystal 80L
Mashed @152deg 60 min. then 168deg 10min.
Boiled 60min with 4 hop additions. Last 10 min added yeast nutrient and irish moss.
Chilled to 68deg, aerated 30 seconds each carboy. Took gravity of 1.054

 

[bowtie]

That 1.027 was that a hydrometer or refractometer reading?

Refractometer

 

[IslandLizard]

Refractometer

There's your answer! For refractometer readings you need to use the correction formula once alcohol is present.

I use Brewer's Friend's calculator, but it is still better to use a hydrometer for precise readings, until you have calibrated both against each other. The wort correction factor is the culprit to seeing small deviations between the two.

 

[bowtie]

There's your answer! For refractometer readings you need to use the correction formula once alcohol is present.

I use Brewer's Friend's calculator, but it is still better to use a hydrometer for precise readings, until you have calibrated both against each other. The wort correction factor is the culprit to seeing small deviations between the two.

Thank you! I have much to learn! So it looks like I'm actually @ 1.014 with the BF calculation. Of course my new Refractometer is not calibrated properly yet. I also have some work to do!
My final G is suppose to be 1.010 and I just dry hopped last night. I wanted it to go 7 days dry hop. Will it be ok to wait that long now that it is so close to being done fermenting?

 

[IslandLizard]

After the primary phase has subsided, your beer is still conditioning, the yeast cleaning up after herself after the binge. This phase may coincide with your dry hopping, let it be for a week. It may even gnaw off a point or 2.

Before next time, read up on making traditional starters, and if you're into a bit of experimentation, the alternative of making a vitality starter instead, on the Brulosophy website. A larger, and/or more vital yeast pitch can help attenuate your beer better, and prevent a possible stalled fermentation when you get to higher OGs (say above 1.070).

68°F can be a little high for WLP001, 65F may be a better target for cleaner ales. But conditioning and dry hopping at 68-70F is a great climate!

 

[PADave]

There's your answer! For refractometer readings you need to use the correction formula once alcohol is present.

I use Brewer's Friend's calculator, but it is still better to use a hydrometer for precise readings, until you have calibrated both against each other. The wort correction factor is the culprit to seeing small deviations between the two.

I was all about using a refractometer till I realized that I couldn't get a consistent or accurate reading pre or post fermentation. So back to hydrometer only measurements for me.

 

[CA_Mouse]

Refractometer

That would be the issue. Once there is alcohol present, you need to use a conversion program for the actual gravity reading. I use this one from More Beer and it has been consistent and matches with a hydrometer.

*note* This is a link to a direct download of their spreadsheet.

 

[kombat]

I was all about using a refractometer till I realized that I couldn't get a consistent or accurate reading pre or post fermentation. So back to hydrometer only measurements for me.

Same here. I've also read that they're extremely sensitive, and that simply setting them down on a counter (not dropping, just setting) can throw off their readings.

 

[m00ps]

Same here. I've also read that they're extremely sensitive, and that simply setting them down on a counter (not dropping, just setting) can throw off their readings.

Jesus, this is why I cant have nice things....