Stainless Steel spring or something inside MLT braid??

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steakandale

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I think I have a solution to stuck sparges in my braided hose MLT...
I should be able to insert an open-loop (compression) spring inside the braid to keep it round.
I can't find anything suitable at home stores.
Grainger has stainless steel springs you can order, a 5 pack, 3/8" x .022 open loop, stainless steel spring. They are only 3/8" overall length, but I figure placing or even wire tying 2 or three inside the braided sleeve would keep the braids shape??? What do you guys think?
Is there anything we can just pick up at Home Despot or Lowes/Ace that will work? All I have found are screen and door closers that extension springs - they are a more solid/closed spring.
Would it be easier to just wind some SS wire around a stick, and wedge it inside?
 
I just used some solid copper wire(like a piece of romex) I had lying around. I wrapped it around something that was slightly smaller than the inner diam on the hose and then stretched it out to create the gaps.
 
If I had that problem, I would just drill a 'bunch' of 3/8" holes in a piece of copper pipe and slide that inside of the braid..
 
I think I have a solution to stuck sparges in my braided hose MLT...
I should be able to insert an open-loop (compression) spring inside the braid to keep it round.
I can't find anything suitable at home stores.
Grainger has stainless steel springs you can order, a 5 pack, 3/8" x .022 open loop, stainless steel spring. They are only 3/8" overall length, but I figure placing or even wire tying 2 or three inside the braided sleeve would keep the braids shape??? What do you guys think?
Is there anything we can just pick up at Home Despot or Lowes/Ace that will work? All I have found are screen and door closers that extension springs - they are a more solid/closed spring.
Would it be easier to just wind some SS wire around a stick, and wedge it inside?

here ya go: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/mlt-cooler-conversion-crushproof-braid-122433/

You can use the extension springs, but you have to stretch them out. Kind of a PITA.
 
I built a manifold with copper tubing and then removed copper from the bottom side of the ring. Then SS braid clamped over that. Works well for me.

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Here is what I came up with:
SS picture hanging wire. It's flexible, but does bend to a shape and stays that way. I formed a spring around a screwdriver shaft, and used the same tool to slip it right in. It is overall, a nice round braid again (I even fixed a few flats) and flows 100%.
It does have some squish to it, so I'll see how long it lasts.
only cost a couple bucks to try this as a fix.

If it flattens or ever sticks again I'll do something in copper, or see if another braid stands up tougher.

Thanks for all the good ideas! I'm BREWING TODAY....:ban::rockin:
 
I don't get why people are spending $20 to fix a problem that can be solved by buying a different $8 braid.

Agreed...I have found that the only thing required inside a proper braid is wort, and sometimes people add stuff inside the braid and it becomes a detriment.:mug:

Maybe some are stirring the tun w/ an outboard motor...I don't get it?
 
I hate to bring back a thread this dead, but I just had to order one of these springs myself so I was glad to find this.

Pondering why some people are having trouble with their braids and not others, I have come to the following theory:

I store my brew pot inside of the mash tun, and then a heavy immersion chiller inside of the brew pot. I think its possible my braid has gotten weakened in this way having sat under a load possibly right where it connects to the valve!

I'm not sure even a different braid will help if you aren't careful when storing.
 
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