spunding, and keg transfer...

Williams 728
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bracconiere

bracconiere

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I have a pop-off PRV like that on my air compressor to protect the tank. Aside from the fact it's a high pressure PRV (somewhere above 150 psi) it does not work the same as a spunding valve, as it does not auto-reset once triggered...

Cheers!
 
day_trippr said:
I have a pop-off PRV like that on my air compressor to protect the tank. Aside from the fact it's a high pressure PRV (somewhere above 150 psi) it does not work the same as a spunding valve, as it does not auto-reset once triggered...

Cheers!
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damn, thanks for the heads up! :mug:

marc1 said:
So you can't get a ball lock connector onto your milk thingie?
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i can but i'm already out of character spending $150 on a spiffy SS fermenter, but i did just clean it...what a breeze compared to HDPE! and a song for this thread...


 
ok, this looks like it's got lines of some sort? so i wouldn't need a tee to a pressure gauge....just shove it in the blow off tube with a hose clamp?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/132273629322?hash=item1ecc1f688a:g:9dwAAOSw8x1Zd-W4

then all i would need is a bev out post for the lid, and the floating torpedo buoy....and a couple Bev QDs? i'd be counting on 6 gallons of 10psi co2 to push 10 gallons though...
 
I think the BlowTie 2 spunding valve was $19 (on sale for $14 now) and the Duotight Flow Stopper keg filler was $17.

I ferment under pressure at 10 - 12 psi. I have 15 gallon fermenters so a five gallon batch will have about 9 gallons of head space. I purge the kegs with CO2 and then transfer under pressure. I have only needed to add CO2 to the fermenter once on a 10 gallon batch. It was an IPA with 20 ounces of hops in the boil and 10 ounces of dry hops. We put 13 gallons into the fermenter post boil to account for extra beer loss due to all the particulate. Normally a 10 gallon batch is 12 gallons into the fermenter and we have never run out of pressure for the transfer.
 
so i got a more beer cart filled with $84 of stuff to convert my milk pail too, a complete...spunding closed transfer system...so i'm looking at $150 for the milk pail, which is water under the bridge at this point and 84 for one conversion. and then another 84 for the other one to be converted...

is all this hype of closed transfers really worth a $230 fermenter? i mean i'm thinking if i don't blow through co2, MAYBE it will save me $27 a year on a cylinder swap?

but if i can actually taste beer again because of it, it'd be priceless!
 
I am not sure if it really saves any money, but I enjoy the process. The beer is already carbonated when it is racked to the keg which is nice. My fermenters are jacketed conicals with a Penguin glycol chiller, so the beer is delivered to the keg cold and carbonated. Do I make better beer because of this single step in the process; probably not. It is just one step in my continuing effort to achieve repeatability in my overall process.
 
Fr8Dog said:
I am not sure if it really saves any money, but I enjoy the process. The beer is already carbonated when it is racked to the keg which is nice. My fermenters are jacketed conicals with a Penguin glycol chiller, so the beer is delivered to the keg cold and carbonated. Do I make better beer because of this single step in the process; probably not. It is just one step in my continuing effort to achieve repeatability in my overall process.
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I’ve been having trouble wrapping my head around this. You said you ferment under pressure at 10-15 psi and then say the beer is already carbonated when you rack to keg. But doesn’t that change once it’s refrigerated? My desire to spund comes solely from the desire to carbonate my beer in advance from the yeast. Wouldn’t it take like 21 psi at regular temps to get the 10 or so psi from a cold keg of beer?
 
Summa_Brewologica said:
I’ve been having trouble wrapping my head around this. You said you ferment under pressure at 10-15 psi and then say the beer is already carbonated when you rack to keg. But doesn’t that change once it’s refrigerated? My desire to spund comes solely from the desire to carbonate my beer in advance from the yeast. Wouldn’t it take like 21 psi at regular temps to get the 10 or so psi from a cold keg of beer?
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good point, didn't think about it....
 
bracconiere said:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2748995677...mWlQCG2tva6Qs%3D|clp:2334524|tkp:BFBM9tP75qJf
i was looking for a 10 psi relief valve, found that thing....


would 6 gallons of 10 psi headspace push 10 gallons into two cornies? maybe i could find a 5 psi one similar for the kegs? trying to make my pressure fermenter closed transfer system as cheap as possible....they want like $60-70 for a spunding valve...
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I was at a harbor freight a few days ago and saw an air line regulator for like 7 or 8 bucks. Maybe you could use something like that ?
 
Summa_Brewologica said:
I’ve been having trouble wrapping my head around this. You said you ferment under pressure at 10-15 psi and then say the beer is already carbonated when you rack to keg. But doesn’t that change once it’s refrigerated? My desire to spund comes solely from the desire to carbonate my beer in advance from the yeast. Wouldn’t it take like 21 psi at regular temps to get the 10 or so psi from a cold keg of beer?
Click to expand...
The carbonation level doesn't change with beer temperature but how much psi needed for absorption does. To get two plus volumes at room temperature you would need to have a decently high psi applied. For example you would need 24 psi at 70°F to get the beer carbed to 2.2 volumes.
 
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